I have a 96 Grand Voyager SE with a 3.0L engine that will stall after driving it for a while. The symptoms pointed to a fuel filter, which I replaced. I also replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, and PCV. The problem still exists. Any other ideas?

OK...after a debate at the auto parts store, they are saying either the IAC valve or the TPS. Now I'm even more confused...

There's been quite a few posts about stalling while coming to stops, etc... Mine was one of them, and the problem with mine is the Automatic Idle Speed motor was faulty and would cause the van to stall when the motor winds down to idle. Im not saying that's what's causing yours to stall, but it may be a possibility. good luck.

Thank you for the reply. The van would start to chug at speed showing all the classic signs of a clogged fuel filter. I'm now reading posts that suggest the fuel pump as well. It sure does seem expensive to treat the symptoms. Short of taking it to a mechanic, there's got to be some way to find the actual problem.

Doesn't sound like thi AIS motor. Yeah that's the problem with not being able to pinpoint the problem. replacing stuff that one isnt sure if that's the problem or not. Crap really adds up after a while.
Did you try to hook up a pressure guage to the fuel system? That may give you an indication of a faulty filter or pump. Just a thought...

Now here's a twist. It was the catalytic converter. I never saw that one coming.

Must've been plugged, huh? Never would've guessed it either. Glad the problem's solved.

Now here's a twist. It was the catalytic converter. I never saw that one coming.


I have had the same problem (intermittent) for several years with my 95 Caravan SE 3.0L with 98K miles. The first time it happened on the motorway (interstate) in England while slowing for traffic. It just stalled on me two days ago while pulling into a parking spot after driving for awhile. No shop has been able to pinpoint the cause to date. Others have noted various sensors, fuel system components, etc. I have never heard of the catalytic converter before. I purchased my Caravan new overseas and never removed the converter. Leaded gas was still in use in certain European countries in the mid-90's. The countries I resided in had converted to unleaded gas at the time so I was told it was ok to leave it on. The original converter and exhaust system are still installed. With the O2 sensor located inline just before the converter, it makes sense if the converter is plugged it might confuse the O2 sensor.

I replaced the downstream O2 sensor because it was in bad shape. I thought I had it all solved when I test drove it. Sure enough, the problem still exists. Evidently, the converter was just a bonus repair. I'm now in the process of replacing the camshaft position sensor, at least that's what the computer is spitting out at me now. Tune in tomorrow for the continuing saga...

Anybody know if the camshaft position sensor is a separate piece of the distributor or is it integrated with the destributor?

OK...It's not the camshaft position sensor, which, by the way, has to be purchased by buying a whole distributor. I'm now thinking maybe the crankshaft position sensor. My logic is that I had my tranny replaced about a month ago and the mechanic improperly reinstalling it.

I've had a recent full tune-up (plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, etc), transmission rebuild, and replaced MAP sensor. This past weekend the stall problem was more persistent than usual. I took it to the local high school parking lot and was able to stall a couple of times. I started tinkering with the EGR Valve position sensor to the right of the throttle body (when view from the front of the engine). I disconnected the top vacuum hose which connects to the top of intake manifold. As soon as I did, the engine perked right up. We've been driving it the past few days with that hose disconnected and it is running fine. Now the question is, is the EGR Valve position sensor? I popped it apart and it has a rubber diaphragm which is cracked. Or is the EGR valve itself. Or is still some other problem that the EGR valve position sensor is responding to? By the way, I have no codes stored when doing the 3-turns of the ignition.

Last night, my computer popped out a P1391, intermittent CMP or CKP. I think this confirms my crankshaft sensor theory. I'll post my results as soon as I replace it and test drive this beast.

AT LAST!!! It was the crankshaft position sensor. It's running smooth now! A new problem has cropped up. There is a sensor on the bottom of the tranny near the drive axles that the connector on the sensor side appears to be broken. Anyone have an idea what that sensor is called?

It's really fixed now. I replaced the speed sensor and reseated the connector for the lock-up solenoid. Time to sell it while it's running!!!

Armnfish,

I feel for you buddy. I have a 99 caravan 3.0L V6 (By the way, the 3.0L doesn't have an IAC valve, as an FYI).

My Story;

99 Caravan 3.0L V6, 156000kms. bought new in 99. Never had a single problem with it. (Also I was never very good with the maintenance either). Anyway a few weeks ago, engines starts sputtering, dying occassionally, etc. After a few cut-outs, I decided to bring it in to Crappy tire. I said I thought the timing was slipped or something. They came back with a list a mile long, including, ignition wires, spark plugs, PCV valve, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, serpentine belt, AC belt, belt tensioner. I said, well, I am not going to pay for to get those things replaced and bought the parts, then went home to change them. After 3 hours, I had all the parts replaced, except the belts which were just annoying and squealing. It was the same thing. I went back and they acted like idiots and wanted to charge me another $86 for a diagnostic, so I said forget it I will change the timing belt myself.

2 days later I get it all back together, (after repairing the belt tensioner, and pulleys, etc., timing belt replaced) it was still acting wrong. I tested all the sensors (bought a Haynes manual) that I could (MAP sensor, TPS sensor, O2 sensors, etc. and the only "bad" sensor was the front O2 sensor. I also replaced the EGR valve, which didn't do anything. I played with the dist cap timing (which I will correct this evening). I was looking at the timing as being indicative of where the spark plug wires were, but the distributor cap routes the wires to different locations inside, so maybe this will solve the problem.

I will keep you posted.

Bobcat

Check your crankshaft position sensor and/or your camshaft position sensor. The gotcha with the camshaft sensor is that they make you buy the whole distributor to replace it ($300 US).

Good Luck.

I ended up having a problem with the starter, after I was still having problems with the van. I went and bought a new starter and put it on. Same thing, starter would spin but engine wouldn't turn. I checked my old one on a battery and it worked fine. Then I got scared. I removed the new starter and checked the ring gear and it was flawless. Then I decided to try and spin the ring gear and to my surprise, it span around very easily, but the engine wouldn't turn. I spent a full day and ripped out the tranny and took off the torque converter and the "flex plate" which has the ring gear on it had the center ripped out of it. Like a donut cutter. Anyway I bought a new flex plate and put it back on, put the transmission back in (another day) and tried to start it again. Same thing sputtering, kicking, backfiring. Then I decided to read the book a little more and I noticed that in the distributor cap, the ignition contacts for some of the cylinders are rerouted elsewhere. Number 1 is actually 90 degrees away from where the spark plug wire is located on top. I lined up the crank with the zero marker, aligned the position of the camshaft (there is a little snap cap in the rear cam belt cover that can be easily removed to check). Turns out that somehow (not sure how) but the timing had slipped so that number 2 cylinder was fired when number one cylinder was at TDC.

Anyway, I removed the distributor cap and moved the helical gear over one notch until it lined up with the place where it should be. As soon as I turned the key, it ran like a brand new engine. (It bloddy well better after all the new parts I put on it!).

Maybe when the original timing belt stretched, it had jumped or something, who knows. It works perfectly now, which is the main thing.

FYI, there is a place where the timing belt can be adjusted through the timing belt cover which requires no disassembly at all. All that's required to adjust the timing belt tension is to loosen the nut which holds the tensioner and the spring will pull it in tight for you. If I would have known this in the beginning, then I would not have needed to replace the timing belt.

Bobcat

This is to bigalbundy. Just in case you read this thread, if you have a cracked diaphragm then when ur engine gains speed and engine vaccuum goes to the egr to open it up, first of all ur egr wont work cuz of the crack and second of all ur vaccuum pressure will drop cuz itl be sucking in air instead of holding pressure. So yeah it would run rough. Try replacing the egr valve and reconnecting vaccuum lines. That should take care of ur problem. Let me know what happens.