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Disappearing Anit-Freeze


Hockeyfan960
10-06-2004, 07:14 AM
My 95 S-10 overheats on a constant basis (about every 300 miles) I add new anti-freeze and the engine stays cool for about 300 miles and then starts to over heat again...some have said that I have a leak in the head gasket...which is a major operation to undetake....Is there any other thoughts out there....???

balls_to_the_wall
10-06-2004, 02:25 PM
get it fixed as soon as you possibly can, unless you have a leak in your radiator, hoses, or water pump, it is a blown head gasket.....you could crack your head if you don't get it fixed

sector95
10-06-2004, 08:01 PM
My 95 S-10 overheats on a constant basis (about every 300 miles) I add new anti-freeze and the engine stays cool for about 300 miles and then starts to over heat again...some have said that I have a leak in the head gasket...which is a major operation to undetake....Is there any other thoughts out there....???

A few angles to work:

Have your radiator pressure tested (or borrow/rent a tester and do it yourself); this will check for system integrity/leaks. Run a compression test and see if you get a low cylinder.

Is there any oil present in the antifreeze?

Do you see any fluid leaking from around the water pump where the fan mounts?

Do a careful search of all the rad/heater hoses and conections for indications of a small leak that might occur when the engine heats up (and cooling system is pressurized). Possibly a small pin hole leak in the radiator....look for telltale signs.

mike

Mikado14
10-06-2004, 08:50 PM
Everything sector95 said is correct. Here's a few more:

Not only oil in the anti-freeze but how about the antithesis of that?

300 miles and you lose enough to overheat is not right.

Is there any evidence of water vapor out of the exhaust?

When you fill up the radiator, do you see excessive bubbling?

If you do pressure test the cooling system, pull all of the plugs. After you pressure test the engine, crank it over a few times and check the plug holes, do you see any anti-freeze?

The best is what sector95 said, do a compression test on each cylinder but, you will have to make sure that the guage will not lock at the highest reading but will leak down. This is called a leak down test and shows how well the cylinder holds compression. Some books will give you the specs on this test.

BlazerLT
10-06-2004, 11:50 PM
Let's simplify this:

Check the oil, if it is not milky, you don't have a head gasket leak.

I have a 1995 and I had the same problem.

Get a new rad cap and I can guarantee you will be fine.

Take the rad cap off when it is dead cold and tell me if the rad is right up to level?

Hockeyfan960
10-07-2004, 06:45 AM
Looking Thru the Chilton's Book, removing the head to replace the gasket, seems fairly straight forward, yet how much time will it take...??? Has anyone done this before...?? Is there anything NOT in the book I should watch out for...??? Do I have to remove the rocker arms and push rods in order to take the head off...??? It says that I can keep the Intake and the exhuast header attached to the head for removal...is that right...???

Another thing....the Chilton's book only lists a 2.2L motor as a Diesel....is that right...?? The badge on the radiator calls out my motor as a 2.2L, but it is not a diesel...is it just a misprint...?? Or are there two verisions of the 2.2L motor...gas/diesel...???

I will look at the oil tonight and let you know about what I find...

BlazerLT
10-07-2004, 06:57 AM
reread the manual and follow the directions for the swap and you will be good to go.

On a 4cylinder it is an easy job.

Fireplug
10-07-2004, 08:49 AM
Hello
1. Check the oil level is it high or normal also is it milky.
2. Check the transmission fluid level(auto trans only) The trans cooler lines go into the rad and I have seen a few leak into he transmission.
3. When you first start up the truck does it blow out a lot of white smoke or while driving does it blow out white smoke??
4. A bad rad cap that will not hold 12-16 psi will cause it to overhead and boil the coolant out of the overflow tank.
Now to do a GM 2.2 is very easy.
1. Drain the rad.
Remove fuel lines from tbi
Remove exhaust manifold( its easer to do it that way) 6 bolts and let it just hang there.
Leave the intake manifold ON.
lOOSEN the rocker arms enough to remove the push rods. the rockers dont have to come all the way off. Put the rods in order the way they came off so you can keep every thing the same.
Remove head bolts .
remove head CLEAN EVERYTHING PLEASE be carfull wth the head. Also put a straight edge on the entire base of the head and if there is any twist to the head have it cut down.
Ok reinstall new gasket and head and bolts. the bolts tork down to 65 ft lbs Plus 1/4 turn.
When you are all done remember to change the oil and filter before you start up the engine.
Fireplug
Retired GM Master Tech
Ase Master Tech

Fireplug
10-07-2004, 09:41 AM
ps
Factory time i think was 2 hours my time was 45 min and did about 4 a day. Take your time

96 jimmy
10-07-2004, 03:20 PM
hope you listened to blazer lt and tried changing to cap before you start on the heads it really is a good idea to do

BlazerLT
10-07-2004, 03:22 PM
Yes, don't change the gasket until you have changed everything else like the rad cap and the thermostat.

DR1947
10-07-2004, 07:13 PM
A quick test for bad head gaskets is to let the engine cool off Remove all pressure from the cooling system by removing the radiator cap. Reinstall the cap. Start it up for a few seconds. Check for pressure by slowly removing the radiatior cap. Listen for excaping air. If you have detectible pressure afere only a few seconds of running you have a combustion chamber to cooling system leak. 10 seconds is long enough to run it

Fireplug
10-07-2004, 08:30 PM
DR1947
Your quick test is only if the leak is between the cylinders. If the leak is outside on the number 1 or 4 clyinders that trick will not work 90% OF 2.2 HEAD gaskets leak at the number 4 cylinder and leak out onto the block
Fireplug

BlazerLT
10-07-2004, 08:56 PM
I bet this is a rad cap.

$3 fix.

OverBoardProject
10-08-2004, 12:01 AM
I've seen 2 or 3 cars with blown head gaskets that don't mix oil and water, however they always preasureized the cooling system instantly (ballonning the reserve, or spewing water out the cap if you remove it.)
If it's the head gasket you don't have to touch the rockers. Keep the push rods in order, and when you re-install everything the valves shouldn't really need adjusting.

Mikado14
10-08-2004, 08:52 AM
Wouldn't it be cheaper in the long run to do a few diagnostics first?

steveprichard
10-09-2004, 10:06 AM
Can you not see any small puddles on pavement after parking? I'm having same problem, but mine seems to be leaking from a freeze plug located behind a engine mount.

OverBoardProject
10-09-2004, 12:54 PM
Didn't GM put those frost plugs in the worst places?

fishtoday925
10-10-2004, 08:36 PM
i am with all the other guys do the easy stuff first screw the head gasket if thats not it

Fireplug
10-12-2004, 08:20 AM
I loved the freeze plugs on the back of the block and had to remove the entire drive line to fix a dam coolant leak .
Fireplug

OverBoardProject
10-13-2004, 12:15 AM
Yea, aren't those frost plugs the best. I'd love to have to change them on a Feiro, or a minyvan

Hockeyfan960
10-26-2004, 12:22 PM
Well, I took the hard route first...that guy who replied who was an Ex-Gm tech..."the book says 2 hours..and he did it in 45 mins......"....Yeah..right...!!!! What a load of crap...??? Was that after you got the head off...???!!!!??? The A/c piping runs everywhere...the bolts for the manifolds (intake & exhaust) are under neath everything....there are three mounting brackets for the Power Steering pump and A/C unit....the altenator has three of it's own hidden behind the intake manifold...

I started at 9am and refilled the anti-freeze at 3am....try 17 hours...with no pee break or dinner break....One run up to the parts store for a new 15mm deep stocket as we broke two trying to get the head bolts off....and I was working with a friend who has his own auto shop....with every tool imaginable....plus we could put it up on the lift....

The bolts were in such hard to reach places....short of tearing the entire engine down it was a horror show....but in the end that was the problem...could see two spots where the gasket let go....one was behind cylinder 4 passenger side and the other was in between 2 & 3....I did not replace the rad. cap....and everything runs like a champ now...

reset the rocker arms and did a full flush of the intake maniford...along with new plugs and wires and an oil change after a gunk treatment and we are humming along....

I want to thank everyone for all of their help....

Except that GM Tech guy....2 hours....not even close.....did I say that already...???

BlazerLT
10-26-2004, 01:58 PM
Still replace the rad cap if it is stock.

OverBoardProject
10-26-2004, 03:44 PM
Well congrats on a job well done. If the motor is out on an engine stand it would probably only take 45 min, but I agree with you. It's a real pain replacing the intake manifold gaskest with the motor in place.

Fireplug
10-27-2004, 01:07 PM
Dude if it took you that long to do a simple head gasket you must have done it backassward. Try to help some people and they still bitch NEXT TIME PAY A PRO to do it. That kind of time anyone could have done 2 v8 engines. You took of way to many things Intake did not have to come off , and the exhaust 6 bolts and it lays back out of the way.
You not welcome ass

Fireplug
10-27-2004, 01:55 PM
By the way GM Factory time for a 2.2 any type of car or truck is 2.4 hours. Thats factory time . Aftermarket time is about 4-6 hours .
And yea I did do them in 45 min but please remember after doing so many you know all the short cuts and what tools you need out before you even start doing the work.
Sorry about above post but this guy got my blood to boil.

PS Just because there is no Hockey Season this year there is no reason to be rude

Mikado14
10-27-2004, 05:29 PM
I am not taking sides but Fireplug is correct. You took way too much stuff off. The exhaust is the only big thing to take off, Intake, fuel rack and few other things can stay on. I can't do it in 45 min complete but have done it in a little less than 2 1/2 hours from soup to nuts.

But anyway, Good Job, your up and running and I would bet dollars to donuts that the next time, You would be quicker.

OverBoardProject
10-27-2004, 08:23 PM
Oh crap I thought that you were talking about a 6 cylinder because of the time and troubles that you had.

But I'm sure that we have all done extra work to fix a minor problem.

I know that with my blazer I really only had to replace the cam shaft, and I've had the engine rebuilt, transmission overhauled with a shift kit, replaced the interior, and I'm still doing the body work. Plus I've done several other smaller jobs, and I work 60+ hours a week. So a 1/2 days worth of work has taken me 5 months of spare time.

I sure hope that I'll be as happy with the outcome as you are with your job

Oh just so we all avoid them What brand of 15mm deep socket did you break 2 of. I even use air tools on mine and haven't broken any in years

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