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97 TAHOE 5.7L VORTEC WON'T START...GM Merlin ideas?


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mikedlox
01-28-2012, 11:28 PM
hopefully this will last until I get enough money saved up to get a good pump

j cAT
01-29-2012, 08:19 AM
this is the experience of rick with airtex / non ac delco delphi fuel pumps. learning from the failure of others is much better than having you learn the expensive way. this post I agree with it is very good telling the whole story.


Rick Norwood
10-29-2008, 04:18 PM
In Oct. 2007, the original Fuel Pump in my 2000 4.3L 4dr, 2wd, Jimmy went out. I had the Fuel Pump replaced (long story) with a brand new Airtex brand aftermarket Fuel Pump and filter. Within 7 months, in April of 2008, I noticed the truck (http://www.automotiveforums.com/t927589-airtex_fuel_pumps__buyer_beware.html#) was getting harder and harder to start. It originally fired on the turn of the key, but progressively got to the point where the starter had to turn the engine over for 5-10 seconds before it would finally fire. Since the Pump was under warranty, my mechanic and I decided to R&R this pump before it left me stranded. Once the pump was out of the tank, we found that the Crimp style clamp holding the Flex hose onto the actual pump (inside of the Pump assembly, inside of the tank) was loose and probably leaking fuel and pressure back into the tank. We got a free Airtex Fuel Pump from the Auto Parts store and swapped out the Fuel Pump and filter. All seemed well until last week Monday, when this 6 month old Airtex pump started making a terrific howling, whining noise. I replaced the Fuel Filter again, even though it was also only 6 months old, but it didn’t help, the noise was very loud and could be heard during the 2 second prime cycle when nothing else was running, not to mention you could hear it while the engine was running. Knowing I was on borrowed time, I drove the truck until Thursday to try to drain as much of the fuel out as possible, when it finally left me stranded in the middle of the interstate. It just quit while driving at 40 MPH during rush hour. Luckily, I was in the right hand lane and was able to get out of traffic. Again, The Fuel pump was swapped out with; you guessed it, another brand new Airtex Fuel Pump, which has already started to show signs of trouble after 2 days. This brand new Airtex Fuel Pump does not seem to hold pressure once the pump (and Engine) is shut off. The next time you try to start the engine, if you don’t let the Prime Cycle finish the 2 second cycle when you first turn the key, the starter cranks until the system is primed. If you let the prime cycle finish, it starts normally.

Here are a few suggestions, tips, opinions, advice, call it what you want, but hopefully, someone will benefit from this and not make the same mistakes I made.

1, Never, never, never buy an Aftermarket Fuel pump. AC-Delco/Delphi OEM pumps are the only way to go, and they are not usually that much more money. If I had done this, I would have saved over $500 in labor costs. Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. You will be ahead in the long run. After 3 pumps I am qualified to make this statement.

2. Some new Aftermarket pumps have a different wiring harness connector that will require you to cut your old one off and connect their new one on. If you have to use a different connector, I recommend that you solder the wires instead of using the connectors that come in the box. However, if you replace your connector and have to go back to the original GM connector, it may cost you extra for a new connector.

3. Always replace the Fuel filter at least once a year. I cannot emphasize this enough! This is what in all likelihood caused my original Fuel Pump to go out. Too much back pressure kills these pumps. Always replace the Fuel Filter when you replace the Fuel Pump.

4. If your Fuel Pump starts to whine, howl or emit a loud whistle, you’re on borrowed time. Start planning for the inevitable R&R. Most Fuel Pumps will normally make some noise. To listen to your fuel pump while it seems to be running good, stand by the Gas Cap Door and have someone turn the key to “ON” without starting the engine and listen to the two second prime cycle for future reference and take note of any change in the sound.

4. If at all possible, if you have a choice, schedule your Fuel Pump replacement when the tank is almost empty. You and/or your mechanic will thank me later.

5. Once the Fuel Pump is out, inspect the inside of the tank for cleanliness. Also inspect the various hoses, lines and clamps and replace anything that could cause small leaks. This is so much easier to do when the tank is out.

6. Double check and inspect the new pump and gasket and make sure everything is the same. I have had Fuel Pump gaskets that came in the box with the new pump that were not thick enough to seal the tank and resulted in failure at the emissions station. I had to buy a new Gasket from the Dealership and re-do the job.

7. Lube the new Fuel Pump gasket with light grease during install to get a good seal.

now one other thing about your vehicle is reports that the fuel pump relay can fail causing the pump to run all the time.

good luck .

motobtn
01-29-2012, 09:52 AM
OK, so it has been starting great and running great, so yesterday I put it to the test. Let it sit for 21 hours in 5F-30F, and this morning, at 10F, it wouldn't start. Cranked, almost caught(seemed like it was firing but just not enough to catch) but just wouldn't fully catch. Just dumped a can of heat in as it is sitting on the ice right now and I want to get it home, so I will let it sit for a bit and try again.

Any other thoughts? Could it just be the cold and i am going to have to put a higher ethanol gas it or heet regularly, or what else it left? What causes it to "catch" for a second, but then not start? Many times when I stop cranking it will shudder a bit like it is igniting something, but I just can't get to the bottom of this!

j cAT
01-29-2012, 12:24 PM
OK, so it has been starting great and running great, so yesterday I put it to the test. Let it sit for 21 hours in 5F-30F, and this morning, at 10F, it wouldn't start. Cranked, almost caught(seemed like it was firing but just not enough to catch) but just wouldn't fully catch. Just dumped a can of heat in as it is sitting on the ice right now and I want to get it home, so I will let it sit for a bit and try again.

Any other thoughts? Could it just be the cold and i am going to have to put a higher ethanol gas it or heet regularly, or what else it left? What causes it to "catch" for a second, but then not start? Many times when I stop cranking it will shudder a bit like it is igniting something, but I just can't get to the bottom of this!


water is most likely the problem with the tests you have done so far. did you try another fuel depot ? also put some fuel in a approved container at the station and let it settle out see if it has water in it.

a quick start then stall could be the security system is the key is going bad ..not sure on your vehicle with that issue.

when cold out on a first starting with 10deg f temp , turn key to ignition on wait 2 sec. pump pedal 2X then crank . see if that does it.

motobtn
01-30-2012, 07:47 AM
Alrighty, I think we are getting close, but could use some more advice yet.
I poured a bottle of heet in yesterday after it wouldn't fire up, waited a couple hours, and she fired right up.

From all this cranking, my starter is now shot! It takes many key "turns" after it has been sitting to finally catch, but I figured this would be happening as it has been worked pretty hard lately.

Anyways, I let it sit for 16hours yesterday and went to fire it up today, and, after getting the starter to engage, wanted to just crank and crank, would do the almost catch thing, shudder when I let the key go, but wouldn't start! So I tried again, but this time, when it was just "catching" I pumped the gas, and eventually, it started up! So, what are we thinking now? Basically, the whole engine spudders and shakes a lot of the time when I let go of the key after cranking, so I was able to get it fired up when I let go of the key and stepped on the gas. Could this still be a bad gas situation, or more timing related or what are the options.
I have it timed with a Tech2, still haven't gotten the crank sensor "relearned", but I am guessing that is more for overall performance and not starting.

Thanks!

motobtn
01-30-2012, 08:32 AM
What are the chances it could be that the starter is too weak or drawing too much power? This occurred to me last night, and again today, and then I found this on another site. Would this make sense if I was able to get it to catch by pumping the pedal when it was "beginning to catch"?

"A less common cause is a worn starter that draws so many amps while cranking the engine that there’s not enough juice left to adequately power the ignition system and fuel injectors. Contributing factors might be a weak battery and/or loose or corroded battery cables."

bigben19974x4
03-13-2012, 11:27 AM
I'm having the same problem with my tahoe. I've got spark and fuel pressure but it won't start. plugs cap and rotor and about 1 1/2 old new fuel pump and starter relays. if it sits a week and the battery dies ill jump it, it'll fire right up.

j cAT
03-13-2012, 06:56 PM
I'm having the same problem with my tahoe. I've got spark and fuel pressure but it won't start. plugs cap and rotor and about 1 1/2 old new fuel pump and starter relays. if it sits a week and the battery dies ill jump it, it'll fire right up.

you need 60-65 psi fuel pressure. any less no start.

bigben19974x4
03-14-2012, 03:26 PM
so i watched the pressure for 15 min. and it dropped below 60 which should i change first the pressure regulator or the pump.

j cAT
03-14-2012, 04:41 PM
so i watched the pressure for 15 min. and it dropped below 60 which should i change first the pressure regulator or the pump.

if when placing the ignition to on with no cranking , and you get 60-65 psi , then the fuel is supply pressure is good. after a couple of seconds the pressure should drop a few psi and hold somewhat for about 15 min . this would mean you have no leak down like regulator/injectors or the fuel pump check valve in the fuel pump is bad.

if you had fuel supply issues , normally after a very short time the pressure would drop to zero.


do you have any sercuity light on. also an aftermarket security system ? these are things that can cause this issue. re-check for proper blue spark . add some fuel to intake see if it gets to run.

could be the computer/pcm is bad. this would prevent the injectors from opening . see if you get injector pulses on the ground side when cranking.

another item would be the ECT, if this is reporting the wrong engine temp this will not throw codes and also cause no or very poor start.

Xgiusmc
06-05-2012, 02:49 PM
Okay alittle help hear. I have a 5.7l GMC 1999. I just won't start . I was in Parkng lot and wouldn't start. So I bought a pressure gauge and have no pressure . So I checked fuel pump. I bought a new one and replaceed it and the relay. Still no pressure . Please someone help me out. I can't work with no truck and I have no cash with. No truck.. This bits. Email me Please (xgiusmc@aol.com)

j cAT
06-05-2012, 08:01 PM
Okay alittle help hear. I have a 5.7l GMC 1999. I just won't start . I was in Parkng lot and wouldn't start. So I bought a pressure gauge and have no pressure . So I checked fuel pump. I bought a new one and replaceed it and the relay. Still no pressure . Please someone help me out. I can't work with no truck and I have no cash with. No truck.. This bits. Email me Please (xgiusmc@aol.com)

welcome to the autoforum. the problem you have could be a bad wire/fuse. using a voltmeter you check for voltages start at fuel pump relay. also make sure the ground connection at the fuel tank frame rail area is clean and secure. at the pump see if there is power and a ground. you could also bypass every thing using a 20a fused jumper and apply power to the fuel pump connector to see if you purchased a bad pump or if this is some non oem pump the connections made at the pump wiring is defective.

use delphi fuel pumps , DO NOT USE AIRTEX....

jcass
08-14-2012, 07:29 AM
I have a 96 chevy k1500 5.0 liter. Having the same issues as a lot of you. I'm on the third fuel pump in a little over a year. Two of those being changed in the last 3 weeks. Got in it to go to work this morning and wouldn't start again. Fuel pump is not turning on again. I find it hard to believe that it has gone through 2 fuel pumps in 3 weeks. With this last fuel pump it ran for a week. The fuel pump prior to that it ran for 2 days. Checked the fuel relay with a meter and it read good. I guess it could still be bad. Any help is greatly appreciated.

j cAT
08-14-2012, 07:55 AM
I have a 96 chevy k1500 5.0 liter. Having the same issues as a lot of you. I'm on the third fuel pump in a little over a year. Two of those being changed in the last 3 weeks. Got in it to go to work this morning and wouldn't start again. Fuel pump is not turning on again. I find it hard to believe that it has gone through 2 fuel pumps in 3 weeks. With this last fuel pump it ran for a week. The fuel pump prior to that it ran for 2 days. Checked the fuel relay with a meter and it read good. I guess it could still be bad. Any help is greatly appreciated.

so did you read the prior post[s] ?

you have a delphi pump correct?

you keep the fuel above 1/4 at all times ?

you replace fuel filter every 30,ooomi ?

jcass
08-14-2012, 08:02 AM
Yes done all of that. Fuel pumps are a/c delco.

j cAT
08-14-2012, 08:13 AM
Yes done all of that. Fuel pumps are a/c delco.

when the pump was removed what caused the failure ?

did YOU do this work ? IF not then I can't help you .

jcass
08-14-2012, 08:22 AM
when the pump was removed what caused the failure ?

did YOU do this work ? IF not then I can't help you .
The fuel pump that I replaced last week. was not working. I haven't had a chance to check this one yet as it just quit this morning. Yes I did the work myself.

jcass
08-14-2012, 08:28 AM
The fuel pump that I replaced last week. was not working. I haven't had a chance to check this one yet as it just quit this morning. Yes I did the work myself.
I've never heard the fuel pump last week turn back on. Was hoping just got a defective fuel pump. I've checked the ground and the fuel relay and they both checked out good. Haven't checked anything else yet since it worked for a week.

j cAT
08-14-2012, 08:37 AM
I've never heard the fuel pump last week turn back on. Was hoping just got a defective fuel pump. I've checked the ground and the fuel relay and they both checked out good. Haven't checked anything else yet since it worked for a week.

the power and ground must be checked at the pump. the connector pins do get damaged.

splicing in the new connectors to the car wiring need be soldered and heat shrink to prevent voltage drop. the suction tube must fit tight. if the pump sucks air it will fail.

with the pump removed you must determine what failed.

low voltage /low fuel level will kill the pump quickly.


with the pump working what was the fuel pressures ? could have restricted return/supply lines fuel pressure test would show this .

jcass
08-14-2012, 09:03 AM
the power and ground must be checked at the pump. the connector pins do get damaged.

splicing in the new connectors to the car wiring need be soldered and heat shrink to prevent voltage drop. the suction tube must fit tight. if the pump sucks air it will fail.

with the pump removed you must determine what failed.

low voltage /low fuel level will kill the pump quickly.


with the pump working what was the fuel pressures ? could have restricted return/supply lines fuel pressure test would show this .
Thanks for your quick reply. I check all of this as soon as I can and let you know the results. Didn't check the fuel pressure of the old pump but will this one.

eddie_vandusen
05-04-2013, 09:22 AM
i am having a problem with my 2000 cadillac escalade 5.7l vortec it idles good and if i give it throttle slowly it will drive fine but when i give it alot of gas it starts sputtering and doesnt have any power ive checked the fuel pressure its good running at 52lbs and ive replace coil wires and plugs i hooked a computer up to it and it wasnt pulling anything but o2 sensor codes but i dont have cats on it so thats why its pulling those codes when i mash the throttle it acts like its loading up or doesnt have any fuel but my pressure is great the guy that hooked the computer up is a family friend thats a mechanic and he said all of the sensors look good tps and the other day i was driving on the highway and it got worse i could only go like 30mph and when i killed it at home it wouldnt start so i replaced the coil and it started again but im still having the same problem no power and sputtering can someone please help me and i checked the distrubitor cap and it looks good

autojoe
05-04-2013, 02:49 PM
i would start new post.......may be an injector problem.

eddie_vandusen
05-04-2013, 07:59 PM
i would start new post.......may be an injector problem.

I did start a new one i just havent had anyone post on it

bigbluefan
01-02-2014, 10:03 PM
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe limited edition Z71 5.7 liter engine. I have had it for almost 2yrs. since I brought it I have been doing repairs to it because it will run for a few weeks then breakdown again. over the pass few months I have replaced the fuel pump , fuel filter, ignition pressure regulator, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, coil pack and did a complete tune up. But it still won't start :( I have read the Chevrolet Manuel books for ideas of what could be cause of my truck not starting and have changed everything that I could think of. PLEASE HELP ME FIX TRUCK ASAP !!!!!!!!!!!!

rhandwor
01-03-2014, 01:56 PM
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe limited edition Z71 5.7 liter engine. I have had it for almost 2yrs. since I brought it I have been doing repairs to it because it will run for a few weeks then breakdown again. over the pass few months I have replaced the fuel pump , fuel filter, ignition pressure regulator, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, coil pack and did a complete tune up. But it still won't start :( I have read the Chevrolet Manuel books for ideas of what could be cause of my truck not starting and have changed everything that I could think of. PLEASE HELP ME FIX TRUCK ASAP !!!!!!!!!!!!
Go to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and get a free scan done and post the codes.

bigbluefan
01-05-2014, 05:16 PM
Hey rhandwor I CAN'T take my truck to be scanned because it WON'T START AT ALL. I have tried spraying quick start in the engine a few times. it will start after I spay the quick start in the engine and stay on for a few second then cut off. :crying::crying:

bigbluefan
01-05-2014, 05:40 PM
Hey rhandwor I CAN'T take my truck to be scanned because it WON'T START AT ALL. I have tried spraying quick start in the engine a few times. it will start after I spay the quick start in the engine and stay on for a few second then cut off. :crying::crying:

j cAT
01-05-2014, 05:45 PM
Hey rhandwor I CAN'T take my truck to be scanned because it WON'T START AT ALL. I have tried spraying quick start in the engine a few times. it will start after I spay the quick start in the engine and stay on for a few second then cut off. :crying::crying:

codes won't help with low fuel pressures.

350 requires 62-65 psi key on engine off. go get gauge and see what ya gut !

bigbluefan
01-05-2014, 05:57 PM
codes won't help with low fuel pressures.

350 requires 62-65 psi key on engine off. go get gauge and see what ya gut !
how can you find out if you have low fuel pressure ? I just replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter

rhandwor
01-05-2014, 06:12 PM
how can you find out if you have low fuel pressure ? I just replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter
Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have loaner fuel pressure testers.
Are you getting any sign of your anti theft system being on a man spent hours on the forum and his would start run around 1 minute and then shut down. After reading all of your problems I would at least watch your light for an indication.
This truck also has a fuel pressure regulator. I never heard of an ignition pressure regulator.
Use a noid light try Advanced or Auto Zone for a loaner. I think the anti theft will shut off power to the injectors.

rhandwor
01-05-2014, 06:30 PM
I repaired the link scroll down to read.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t370663-discuss98_silverado_starting_problem.html

bigbluefan
01-05-2014, 09:00 PM
Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have loaner fuel pressure testers.
Are you getting any sign of your anti theft system being on a man spent hours on the forum and his would start run around 1 minute and then shut down. After reading all of your problems I would at least watch your light for an indication.
This truck also has a fuel pressure regulator. I never heard of an ignition pressure regulator.
Use a noid light try Advanced or Auto Zone for a loaner. I think the anti theft will shut off power to the injectors.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator this weekend and it still won't run or start. I was told that I might need to replace my fuel pump oil pressure switch or reset my ECM. If I do have to reset my ECM does anyone know how to reset it ?

rhandwor
01-06-2014, 06:25 AM
I repaired the link scroll down on a previous post.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t698858-discuss98_silverado_starting_problem.html
This is another link.

j cAT
01-06-2014, 04:03 PM
how can you find out if you have low fuel pressure ? I just replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter

key on engine off what is the fuel pressure ?

bigbluefan
01-06-2014, 06:16 PM
Has anyone ever heard of the oil pressure fuel pump switch? and do you know where it is located on a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.7 liter engine limited edition Z71 ? and can anyone tell me what is the sensor that is directly under the distributor called ?

rhandwor
01-06-2014, 06:35 PM
Has anyone ever heard of the oil pressure fuel pump switch? and do you know where it is located on a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.7 liter engine limited edition Z71 ? and can anyone tell me what is the sensor that is directly under the distributor called ?
Http://www.rockauto.com/ Put in your data and look at the picture.
You said you have good spark so your distributor is good. If you have a wiring diagram it should be in your Haynes manual.
A 1998 Tahoe 5.7L Oil Pressure sensor is top center rear of engine behind distributor.
Camshaft position sensor in distributor.
Lay a finger on the fuel pump relay you can feel it click when someone else is cranking engine.

j cAT
01-07-2014, 04:53 PM
Has anyone ever heard of the oil pressure fuel pump switch? and do you know where it is located on a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe 5.7 liter engine limited edition Z71 ? and can anyone tell me what is the sensor that is directly under the distributor called ?

get fuel pressure gauge on fuel rail what is the pressure.

oil switch does nothing on a cold start , after cranking then the oil safety switch will kill the fuel pump.

if you measure no pressure key on engine off then check all fuses. remove connector to pump see if you have voltage at pump .

you test pump before installing ?

bigbluefan
01-07-2014, 06:15 PM
get fuel pressure gauge on fuel rail what is the pressure.

oil switch does nothing on a cold start , after cranking then the oil safety switch will kill the fuel pump.

if you measure no pressure key on engine off then check all fuses. remove connector to pump see if you have voltage at pump .

you test pump before installing ?
J cAT, yes after my fuel pump was replaced I drove it for a few weeks. and when I try to start it you can hear the fuel pump click on

rhandwor
01-07-2014, 06:22 PM
If you have a 12 volt test and a small Gem clip clip the test light ground clamp on the gem clip.
Unplug an injector and put the gem clip on one terminal and the other terminal put the test light tip.
Have you wife or someone else crank the engine. Does the test light blink. Post the results.

bigbluefan
01-07-2014, 06:34 PM
rhandwor , Would the fuel pump relay cause it to not start ?

rhandwor
01-07-2014, 06:35 PM
Would the fuel pump relay cause it to not start ?
Yes

bigbluefan
01-07-2014, 07:34 PM
rhandwor, ok checked the fuel pump relay its working properly. I'm running out of things to check ? any ideas of what it could be

rhandwor
01-08-2014, 06:51 AM
rhandwor, ok checked the fuel pump relay its working properly. I'm running out of things to check ? any ideas of what it could be
I sent you a link on noid lights and scanner.
You can go to GM dealer and purchase a new key switch tell them yours gives wrong readings. They will sell it to you and you can install it. Remember to pull air bag fuse.
Disconnect battery ground. After its installed program it by method in links.
Try a new key it may work.
A lock smith will come to your home and repair it for you. The $29.95 scanner will give you a code for passlock I would suggest using it before trying above.
Check the injectors if they don't pulse the engine won't run.
The few testers I sent you a link for are cheaper than one of the parts you installed.

j cAT
01-08-2014, 09:28 AM
J cAT, yes after my fuel pump was replaced I drove it for a few weeks. and when I try to start it you can hear the fuel pump click on

this is my last response to you . what is the fuel pressure ?

rkvons
01-08-2014, 01:06 PM
this is my last response to you . what is the fuel pressure ?
bigbluefan,
Let me translate this for you: j cAT has asked you this at least three times and you have not provided an answer. He will not ask again and will not help anymore if he does not get the answer. The way this forum works is, people here help others to diagnose their vehicle's issues. The result of diagnosis is information. That information is used to continue the diagnosis. j cAT is a huge resource.

rhandwor
01-08-2014, 01:07 PM
this is my last response to you . what is the fuel pressure ?
You can hook up a pressure gauge at the fuel filter connector. Then blow through the filter and make sure it isn't plugged.

bigbluefan
01-08-2014, 09:00 PM
I will have to check it again and post the answer

rhandwor
01-09-2014, 09:33 AM
http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml
http;//www.ebay.com/ Search Innova scanners for obd 2 They have 3 used ones for $69.00 plus shipping.
Weather you have a problem in this area or not a scan tool with codes and freeze frame will save you time and money. Just the loss of a vehicle for a week and a rental car is costly.
The color codes are different but the procedure is the same. My other links have colors for this truck. My BCM is between the steering and glove box if I remember correctly.

rhandwor
01-09-2014, 09:59 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ox_IhgGLYU
This shows a lock smith repairing a a lock cylinder and reprogramming so the vehicle will start.

rhandwor
01-09-2014, 05:35 PM
rhandwor, ok checked the fuel pump relay its working properly. I'm running out of things to check ? any ideas of what it could be
My fuel pressure regulator is adjustable you may have to get a loaner gauge at Auto Zone and hook up to fuel rail to adjust. I just noticed you had a 2000 not a 1998.

bigbluefan
01-11-2014, 02:56 PM
Fuel pressure was 38. checked for power and ground, jumped from point number 30 and 87 fuel pump ran and stayed on. tried to start it but it still won't start. took battery to be recharged.

j cAT
01-11-2014, 04:22 PM
Fuel pressure was 38. checked for power and ground, jumped from point number 30 and 87 fuel pump ran and stayed on. tried to start it but it still won't start. took battery to be recharged.

fuel pressure need be key on engine off 60-65 psi. .

37 psi would not start an LT 1 engine which the spec is 40 psi...

if you installed an airtex pump this is quite common ...

use delphi or ac delco.

good luck .

rhandwor
01-11-2014, 05:05 PM
Fuel pressure was 38. checked for power and ground, jumped from point number 30 and 87 fuel pump ran and stayed on. tried to start it but it still won't start. took battery to be recharged.
If you used Auto Zone they will give you a free pump.
You would be better with a Delphi pump.

bigbluefan
01-14-2014, 07:46 PM
Thank you everyone for all the good advice. My truck is finally working.

rhandwor
01-15-2014, 05:15 AM
Thank you everyone for all the good advice. My truck is finally working.
Good work I'm glad you got it running.

ajworcester
08-03-2014, 02:18 PM
i have a 1997 chevy tahoe LS 4dr. 4wd. i have had a check engine light on for a long time. random misfire and cam/crank correlation error. i changed my plugs and wires and timed it and the check engine light is gone. however before i fixed this issue i was having trouble where it will start and run perfect but randomly not start. it will crank and crank but no start and then when it decides (minutes to hours later) it will start and run fine. no problems at all. i checked the fuel pressure and was getting avg. 50psi. i changed the pump and filter and still have this issue. what else could it be? i have 198,000 miles on it. when it sits in the garage overnight it seems to start fine but if it sits out in the sun all day it wont start. i dont know if it has any thing to do with it or just a coincidence. new alternator, water pump, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery, all fluids are good.

j cAT
08-03-2014, 03:37 PM
i have a 1997 chevy tahoe LS 4dr. 4wd. i have had a check engine light on for a long time. random misfire and cam/crank correlation error. i changed my plugs and wires and timed it and the check engine light is gone. however before i fixed this issue i was having trouble where it will start and run perfect but randomly not start. it will crank and crank but no start and then when it decides (minutes to hours later) it will start and run fine. no problems at all. i checked the fuel pressure and was getting avg. 50psi. i changed the pump and filter and still have this issue. what else could it be? i have 198,000 miles on it. when it sits in the garage overnight it seems to start fine but if it sits out in the sun all day it wont start. i dont know if it has any thing to do with it or just a coincidence. new alternator, water pump, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, battery, all fluids are good.

5.7L requires 60 psi key on eng off.

ajworcester
08-03-2014, 06:55 PM
with a new pump and filter what would cause the pressure to remain at 50 vs. 60?

j cAT
08-04-2014, 11:19 AM
with a new pump and filter what would cause the pressure to remain at 50 vs. 60?

the fuel regulator ... if the regulator returns too much fuel back to the tank the pressure will be too low.

when at idle the engine is at max vacuum the regulator is calibrated to reduce the fuel pressure. with the engine off you have NO vacuum therefore the regulator should be calibrated to provide 60-65 psi......

the other reason would be poor pump flow.....or power ... to check this you momentarily restrict the return fuel line to see the pressure surge up to 75psi plus...

when the engine is turn off the pressure should hold for 15 min if it drops to zero you must find out why.. leaks/pump check valve ,leaky injectors ,fuel lines..

skijeck
09-02-2017, 04:14 PM
I read all of the solutions, but didn't see this one. So, you may think, what does this have to do with not starting? The answer is this: I have a 1999 suburban with 327,000 miles on it that I was using to drive 30 miles a day. Still runs good. I took into have the water pump replaced and when I got it back, I have trouble getting it started. I have two pistons with low compression's. This didn't just happen, it's old. Anyway, they called me up and said it's hard to start, I told them it always started on the first key turn without using the gas pedal. Because it was so hard to start, I change plugs, wires everything, check fuel pressure, good...but would flood as soon as I tried to start it without using the gas pedal. 3 months went by sitting. I decided, one more attempt. Talked with this mechanic and he told me the Temperature Sensor on the intake manifold was the problem. He explained, because it's bad, it thinks the engine is very hot and tells the computer to send maximum fuel which it did. $14 later for a new one, a bit hard to start due to sitting, but once it started, all is good. 5 days after and starting it daily, it's back to turning the key and it starts right up. That's the cheapest fix I ever had. Sorry for the long winded answer, but I though you all should know.

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