is there any way to convert the 1.5 OBD computer to a OBD2, such as switching it out. what would have to be done? 95 4.3liter V6 CPI. doing for performance reasons. would putting a performance chip in allow me to change setting or not?

Don't start doing that crap bro.

Our computers are technically OBDII but just a more primitive version installed initially when they were doing the switchover.

Those chips don't do anything for the performance anyways.

Do the usual intake/muffler/under-drive pulleys etc.. before you start frigging around with the computer.

i'm working on the intake now and the exhaust is done.as well as the EGR mod. what do you mean by under-drive pulleys? never heard of it. i was also thinking of the fan conversion and a 180 thermostat, and installing 1.6 ratio roller rockers from comp cam and a MSD ignition. sound good?

Ok, first off, you really need to come down to reality bro.

1.) Take that stupid EGR mod off. Does nothing but cause detonation You will get more horsepower from a properly work EGR system. If you riase combustion temperature, you will get spark knock and your knock sensors will retard the timing and therfore net you LESS horsepower.

2.) Google for underdrive pulleys and learn about them. www.google.com

3.) Fan Conversion is not worth it. The pully fan is only on when you are at idle and the clutch disengages when you accelerate.

4.) 180 Thermostat - Good Mod :) Don't go any colder, 180 is the lowest you want to go.

5.) Roller rockers are not needed on our truck. We already have roller tipped lifters.

6.) Comp Cam - Can be worth while if you want to do all the work needed for it.

7.) MSD Ignition - Not needed for a stock and non-turbo or supercharged motor. Stock ignition can supply enough voltage for a 454 and is essentially overpowering the 4.3L.

Put the money into some nice wheels and tires for your truck.

k thanks for the info. how much of a diff would the under drive pullys make? where can i find a set and whats the price? the roller rockers i was talking about would come from comp cam. would it make any diff or not? i might add a cam later down the line but not now. wheels and tires will come later after the trucks paid off.

Put the money into paying the truck off.

I would rather have a paid off stock truck than a modded trucks with 3000 still owing.

yea i know but i'm asking for some stuff for christmas.i'd still like to know about the diff would the under drive pullys would make and about the roller rockers.

is there any way to convert the 1.5 OBD computer to a OBD2, such as switching it out. what would have to be done? 95 4.3liter V6 CPI. doing for performance reasons. would putting a performance chip in allow me to change setting or not?

to answer your question,

yes it can be "converted" to OBD2, however you will have to make a trip to the dealership and have the computer flashed. it wont gain you anything other than full OBD2 compliance AFAIK.

as for a performance chip, JET makes a module that plugs in to the computer.

would i be able to mod the computer as if it was a OBD2 computer? ball park price?

The JET chip is worthless on our engines.

It just kills your economy and throws in more fuel for power.

Waste of money.

Jesus man.

i understand about the chip but cobra1 was talking about reflashing the computer to OBD2. that was what i was talking about. i'm not going to put a chip in.

You have to understand, we have a OBDII already.

There is no such thing as OBD1.5.

Our version of OBDII is just a little simpler than the 1996.

then how come when i hook up a programmer i can't play with the computer like a OBD2 computer. could i reflash it to a newer version of OBD2?

We have a VCM-A which is different than the full OBDII.

can you explain it any better. can it be switched to a newer version or not?

NO!

Buy a 1996 Blazer or leave it alone.

k. i'll stick with the 95. woulld the roller rockers from comp cam make any diff or are the stock ones fine? know of any where to get the under drive pulleys?

NO!

Buy a 1996 Blazer or leave it alone.

????

it most certainly can be upgraded to full OBD2 compliance, certainly no performance benefit, but it can be done none the less.

The JET chip is worthless on our engines.

It just kills your economy and throws in more fuel for power.

Waste of money.

Jesus man.

ummm.... just how bad is the gas economy with one of these? like what MPG are we looking at on a 2wd S-10 for instance?

anybody know about roller rockers or under drive pulleys?
where can i fnd a set of under drive pulleys? price? another thing is if i were to add another fan infront of the stock on both forceing air the same way, and i was to turn it on a little before i raced to help get the engine colder. would this help any. this would be after the 180 thermostat is put in.

anybody know about roller rockers or under drive pulleys?
where can i fnd a set of under drive pulleys? price? another thing is if i were to add another fan infront of the stock on both forceing air the same way, and i was to turn it on a little before i raced to help get the engine colder. would this help any. this would be after the 180 thermostat is put in.

Don't worry about roller rockers, not needed on the 1995.

Did you search for under drive pulleys yet on the net? www.google.com

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=MRG-4757+&x=14&y=16

Don't add another fan in front of the radiator, you will just make the cooling worse. Nothing wrong with the stock system so don't mess with it.

????

it most certainly can be upgraded to full OBD2 compliance, certainly no performance benefit, but it can be done none the less.

I SAID it was already OBDII, just a simpler version with less sensors and parameters. Flashing it to 1996 would maen he would have to insert a MAF into the system, install two more O2 sensors and various difference the 1996 had to the 1995.

I don't know why you are arguing with me.

adding the sensors is fine. but could it be done with added sensors? or would i need a new wireing harness?

I swear ta god man, I feel I am talking to a brick wall.

GET OFF THE COMPUTER CHANGE THOUGHT PROCESS!!!

I swear ta god man, I feel I am talking to a brick wall.

GET OFF THE COMPUTER CHANGE THOUGHT PROCESS!!!

I am going to have to agree here with BlazerLT. Stock, from the factory, these trucks and engines are built pretty solid. There is no reason to go swapping things out like crazy because you *want* to, only if you need to. However, there are a few minor things one can do in an afternoon that will drastically improve fuel economy and overall performance on these trucks.

1) Cat-Back exhaust replacement. Use all 2.25" pipes if you can. Nothing of note is gained at all from converting to dual exhaust. It looks cool, but actually does very little. Just open up the exhaust with a good set of pipes and a muffler from Borla, Gibson, FlowMaster or even a FloPro.

2) After the above is done, one can easily mod their existing intake for cold air induction with the stock airbox already present in the truck. I did this with a Dremel tool and an hour's worth of work from start to finish. Adding in a drop-in K&N Filter Charger really opens up the intake, but is almost useless unless you have the exhaust to match first.

3) Chipping, modding, or swapping the driveline computer is utterly pointless. All that chips do is dump more fuel into the engine, making the catalyst run hotter and existing O2 sensors foul up quickly. Converting to OBD-II on a pre-'96 truck just buys you headaches. If it ain't broke, don't tamper. Period.

4) Under-drive pulleys can free up an additional 4 horses for every pound of weight you take off of the main pulley/crank. In addition to a main crank pulley, you can get pulleys for your A/C, Alternator and power steering pump. Done right, altogether this unleashes up to about 20 horses on our '95 CPIs.

5) The stock radiator/cooling configuration on our trucks is awesome enough. It will even handle towing up to maximum capacities without a headache. Dropping in the 180 degree thermostat is a keen idea, as it drops the other operating temps from the oil cooler and tranny cooler just enough to make a real difference. The *only* modification I have seen that makes sense is a 3 to 5 pass auxilary oil cooler for the tranny affixed to the front of the radiator. Adding electric cooling is a nightmare. These trucks already run at the limit of thier alternator output. Tampering with the power systems in this trucks leads to bad, BAD tranny trouble later and random glitches almost everywhere else.

6) Roller cams on a '95 Vortec 6 is pointless. We already have them.

7) Platinum plugs other than AC/Delco Rapidfire are pointless too. Oddly, stock and OEM performance parts work best.

I have personally spent 2 weeks going from front to back on my '95 Blazer. I bought it used with 133k on the clock. Nothing will give you *immediate* power gains like a complete tune-up. (Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, O2 sensors, Air and Fuel filters, oil change and filter with a good, 10w30 or straight 30w weight oil poured in) I have modded the exhaust and intake as stated above, and I *cannot* keep the truck from spinning it's wheels when pressing the gas down harder than 1/2 way!

Altogether, these mods and regular tune-up maintainence has maintained a whopping 16 to 19 MPG in the city and about 25 on the highway, and the engine still runs strong and hard all the way. Not much one can do short of dropping in a v-8 motor that will give you what you seem to want - especially for racing. Better save up the dough too - gotta swap tranny, driveline parts, etc. to get the v-8 racing mods done and to maintain the truck. Neve race unless you have the budget to support it. Anyway... I talked enough. Time to give someone else a turn.

Whoa, nice post bro.

I take it you have a 2x4 95 Blazer because I can't light up my truck tires.

Whoa, nice post bro.

I take it you have a 2x4 95 Blazer because I can't light up my truck tires.

I have a '95 Blazer 4x4 w/manual floor shift on the transfer case.. In 2-hi it will smoke a pair of rear wheels to shreds in an afternoon if not careful. Most of the time, I drive like a grandfather, so this is not really a problem. But one tempting moment at a "stop-light drag" got my wheels smoking, and a nice, sasitfying chirp when it went from 1st to 2nd. Of note, if you do not like the "wide open" noise of a FlowMaster muffler, a "bargain basement" FloPro flows just as good with a nice, deep mellow tone without the high pitched cackle at highway/passing speeds. You can still have a conversation in the truck. ;)

Hey!

I need your advice!

Check out this thread and tell me if something is wrong with my truck acceleration.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=283211&page=1&highlight=water

Videos are included. Let me know and listen to my exhaust.

Hehehe! I have a gallon of distilled water sitting in my kitchen for just this nasty little job. Your truck sounds and runs great! I do not see what you are worrying about - pulling 90+ MPH in second gear is nothing to sneeze at! Good work, and excellent documentation.
I think the reason why my tires smoke is because they have just plain old 3-ply passenger car tires on them. Good, quiet ride, but made of a harder rubber compound to wear longer. They do not grip as well as LT tires do for off-road use. When I change up the meats on my truck, switching to a real LT tire may cure my back wheel spins under heavy take-off. ;)

I have done this same water in the intake trick on my Dodge Ram 1500, and my Subaru Legacy 2.2 litre wagon. I would suggest that ASAP, after doing this job, that you get the oil changed and a new filter put on too.

Minute particles of carbon are broken up and dumped straight out your exhaust. What little that does not, loads up in your oil pretty fast. Your filter will do a good job of getting this stuff out, but the smaller particles will continue to be borne in your oil until it is changed out. And we all know what gunky oil does! Causes friction, robs power, etc. etc. We as performance nuts have a desire to keep right on the bleeding edge if we can!

The thing that I did to make it work on my Dodge in particular, was to force a mild "overheat" condition. Using a dam made from a piece of cardboard, it was slipped in against the radiator between the A/C condensor and the outside grille. It was not a complete cutting off of air flow, just enough to make the temp rise 3/4's of the way up and just rest a hair below overheating. My reasoning on this was that the engine would be close if not slightly over the boiling point of water. In the odd chance that you are not fast enough to give yourself enough throttle to prevent a stall, the interior of the engine would be hot enough to boil off the water, thus preventing hydro-lock condition when you attempted a restart.

*IF* you stall the motor doing the water trick - walk away for 15 minutes before trying again. Dropletts of water anywhere in the cylinders and in particular against the cylinder walls turn into concrete blocks at the speeds that the piston rings try to pass over them. So give it time to "cook off" before you attempt it again. This is why you *MUST* do it on a hot engine. Never work this cleaning proceedure on a cold block...ever. Good show, BlazerLT!

Hey bro.

The thing with that video is, my speedometer is in KM/HR and I was only doing 60MPH when the clip ended.

I think my cat is plugged seeing that the truck is starting to run poorly and lacking power now while accelerating from a stop light and is pinging lightly.

also, not a whole lot of exhaust is coming out when hot and the exhaust coming out is REALLY HOT!

I mean like only can hold your hand by it for a second or so.

Cat has to be partially blocked and the cat is rattleing a bit wehn it is warm now too.

Hey bro.

The thing with that video is, my speedometer is in KM/HR and I was only doing 60MPH when the clip ended.


D-oh! Going back and freezing the video on a frame where the screen is not so blurry from movement... Km/H is correct. And here I thought you had a "Super Truck". I was wondering how you got it to go so fast! Well, that just proves it, the Metric system is better for some things. :icon16: I did note that yours seems to be the OBD-II version, with the computer atop of the wiper resivoir. (Am I correct in assuming this? Mine's got the silver box behind the glovebox)

The fastest way to figure out if you have a plugged catalyst is to have a plug fashioned to fit in place of an O2 sensor. Then, use a tube to connect a pressure gague. Only unplug one O2 sensor at a time when doing this, and take pressure readings before and after the catalyst, pausing, stopping the engine and swapping the test plug into the place of the other sensor at a time. Have a buddy to help you out, you will need him/her to hit the gas to quickly "snap" the throttle open to hit about 3500 RPM. This *will* light your SES idiot lamp but reseting by lifting the ground wire off your battery cures this once the sensor is replaced.

If there is greater than 4 PSI difference between "pre" and "post" catalyst O2 sensor positions, yeah, it might be plugged, or getting there at any rate. When catalyst is functioning properly, the pressure differential between the two O2 sensor positions should only be about 1 to 2 PSI.

Yea, they tested it at a dealer but they tested it when the cat was cold and of course, it was not really restrictive.

It is only restrictive when it is hot.

Yikes, I hear you there. Dealerships are only good under warranty. And even then , they give you minimal service until the warranty has expired. I have many choice 4 letter words for those guys. I have a man locally that is one of the best shade-tree style mechanics around. Advice is always free. Shop labor applies when he turns wrenches, and he sticks to the books as an ACE certified garage. I take the works to him when I get stuck on real problems.
My advice would be to find one, and if he is a Chevrolet nut, all the better... the level of help, quality and satisfaction after the job will always be so much greater. Good luck getting that hot and stuffy exhaust figured out. It might just simply be age. If you have more than 120k miles on the clock I would suspect catalyst too. The water cleaning would not plug your catalyst - everything down-stream gets cleaned too. Get it checked soon, in these trucks, a plugged catalyst has a nasty habit of turning into free chunks that get lodged downstream in muffler baffles. Getting a chunk of rhodium/paladium/platinum coated ceramic honeycomb stuck cross-wise somewhere it does not belong will do some pretty nasty things! These include burning a hole in a pipe-bend or through the side of a muffler. I have seen that happen once before. :P

I SAID it was already OBDII, just a simpler version with less sensors and parameters. Flashing it to 1996 would maen he would have to insert a MAF into the system, install two more O2 sensors and various difference the 1996 had to the 1995.

I don't know why you are arguing with me.

because you dont get it.

first, NO it's not already OBD2, it may be real close, but its certified OBD1.

second, i said nothing about flashing it to a 96. there is a flash upgrade to make the 95 an OBD2 certified 95 model.

third, you dont know it all, as neither do I or anyone else here. nor do i sit by while someone reads something in to my post that isnt there and then continues to wonder why i disagree with them!

again, no performance gain, but there is the possibility of better error diagnostics.

taken from the GM service parts vehicle calibration website for my VIN #, my truck is a 95 w/CPI.

Part Number CVN Description

16227653 N/A NEW CALIBRATION TO ENABLE FULL OBD 2 CAPABILITY. FOR U.S. USE ONLY.

We have a VCM-A which is just a simpler OBDII system with less sensors.

Go talk to your GM dealer and have them tell you the same.

I don't just pull this shit out of my ass so I can seem smart. It is because I OWN a 1995 CPI 4x4 Blazer LT and I KNOW what my truck has.

I don't give a shit about the OBDI certification, it is a OBDII computer plain and friggin simple. If it was OBDI, I would have a computer under my glove box.

Better yet, open up your chilton's or Haynes repair manual and have them tell you the same.

ok. the mods i already have done to the truck are 2.5" pipe from the cat back with a glasspack on it. a custom air in take with dryer tubeing so i have ram air with a ITG racing cone air filter. Mobil 1 syn 10w-30. what do you think about modding the EGR. Blazerlt said it did nothing but bad for the motor. i just found out that the reason i'm getting bad gas mileage is i'm leaking from some where in the intake manifold from what i can tell. i only get about 280-250 city driving on a full tank of gas. it is a auto and a complete tune up was do when i got it which was last july. the CPI was changed some time after 97. how do you measure the fuel pressure to determine whats what. i didn't get the paper work for it but i know it was changed by the dealer. also, can you change the shift points. would make any diff?

Shift points cannot be changed.

If you are having economy problems, chances are you need to swap out the old O2 sensors for new ones.


I did and OOOOHAAAAA , bigtime mileage increase.

i changed both o2 sensors about 2 months ago. the SES light told my their was a problem in bank 1 sensor 1 and after changing it out the other one went up and so i changed that one as well. whats the fuel PSI thats supposed to be on it?

58-64psi at key ON, no start.

Don't worry, if your fuel pressure was low, it wouldn't even start.

I would pull the upper plenum cover and check for the injector leaking again.

i might do that this weekend. do you have a pic of what it would look like where it would be leaking? after it sits all night i can smell gas in the intake but other then that it runs fine but bad gas mileage. do you think its leaking or not?

Oh boy, this is not good.

If you can smell gas, you have a leak.

Also, is your fuel smelling like gas and is thin? Is the oil level high?

Here is a link where you can see where the gas has washed the inside.

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/feb2000/techtotech.htm

Here is mine when I swapped mine out. See the passenger side where the fuel has washed it gold.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559&highlight=cpi+replacement

Get a new upper plenum gasket when you do this. You might want to have a new injector and fuel line kit (called a nut kit) so you can swap it out.

Buy the CPI injector off of ebay and the nut kit from your local dealer.

Also, get this fixed ASAP or it will kill your cat and blow your engine if the fuel thins your oil too much and you blow your lower end.

the engines been running fine. so i don't think its that bad yet but i'll try to pull it this weekend or friday since i don't have work on friday. what was your time start to finish? the oil looks fine and doesn't seem to be high or have a over powering smell of gas. i think that when the dealer changed it they didn't change the nut klit and thats where is leaking. from looking down the hole in the intake theres a spot thats washed. its towards the back and where the round part facing the passanger side is. it looks clean and the area on the back of the intake closest to the fire wall looks washed and theres a table spoon amount of gas around it on top of one of the manifold bolts. what do you think has gone bad? if you look in my gallary you will see a pic of the lower manifold with arrows pointing to the spots. the blue is where the puddle is and the yellow is the washed spot. the tubes of the CPI look a little wet but they could just be oil fumes on them. this is all i can tell from the valve on top of the motor removed.

Ok, you are in need of a new fuel injector.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/220109before2.JPG

If you have leaks in those places, the injector is shot again.

It wasn't until 1998-1999 that they came out with a new injector with the improved fuel pressure regulator seal that stops it from blowing which is causing the leak.

Let me perfectly clear on this, this has to be repaired immediately and cannot be put off. You are ruining your cat converter as we speak and your oil is being dangerously contaminated with gas and is thinning and damaging your bearings throughout your engine.

Get this fixed and while you are at it, replace the nut kit as well. Never just do one, do them both.

Fresh plenum gasket
Fresh Injector
Fresh NutKit

You will be good to go after that.

i hope to get it done by friday afternoon. i only drive about 5 mins each way to work. i was going to replace the nut kit any way since everybody always says you should. whats the price i'm looking at for the complete job and time spent? i called a local parts shop and they said they need some # of the CPI. is there one on it or do they not know wht they are talking about?

Don't get the injector at the dealer, only get the nut kit and plenum gasket at the dealer.

You can buy the injector from advance auto parts for US$270.49.

The nut kit will be about 30-50 and the gasket will be about 10.

At the dealer they will charge over Us$1000 to have this done.

how hard is it to do. i plan to pull the manifold friday and see how bad it is and if i can fix it. and yes i know RTV won't work on gas so i'm going to use steel hold which you can use on gas tanks. if i can't fix it and its really bad then i'll swap it out and out a new one it but if its just starting i decide on what to do then. can i look into the intake from the top and look at the CPI leaking or does it need to run to leak? also, i noticed it would mis alittle at idle and then i switched to 93 oct and now its there more and it louder. could the CPI be causeing it or bad gas?

Yes, the CPI will cause this.

Don't start into the ghetto fixing crap or I will never help you again and you are COMPLETELY wasting my time.

You replace it or you do nothing.

ok. i'm going to pull it friday and i'll let you know what becomes of it.

Use only fresh parts and fresh gaskets and DO NOT use friggin sealants and that crap.

Regiter and visit here for a forum thread on all the CPI / Nut kit tutorials on the net.

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34668

Again, read those links and get the pictures to help you.

Be careful and research before you do it, this is an easy job if you know what to do but it is hard if you wing it.

And only remove the plenum cover and not the whole intake.

understood.

understood.

And remember the pictures.

ok. i'd still like to know if you took the valve out of the top of the intake manifold and turn the key on but not started it, would you beable to see it leaking or would it have to be running to leak?

More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating.

I wouldn't recommend it.

Face it, it is blown, fix it.

There is no more diagnosis needed.

i didn't get to work on it this weekend but i had to install a hard pipe from the glasspack back because the flex pipe blew a hole in it and i was going to do it any way. now it will pass emissions. i'll try to get to it tuesday i'm off again. is there any thing i can put on the regulator and the inside of the manifold that will leave a mark so i'll see where it leaking the most. i tried using chulk but that soaked up the oil or gas.

STOP DIAGNOSING IT AND REPLACE THE DAMN THING!!!

Would you god damn well listen and stop pissing around with finding out what it is and replace the injector and fuel lines!!!!!

You are ruining your engine with all this letting it keep going this bad and ladening your oil with gas , ruining your cat, destroying your bearings.

Replace it and stop fucking around like a teenager.

STOP DIAGNOSING IT AND REPLACE THE DAMN THING!!!

Would you god damn well listen and stop pissing around with finding out what it is and replace the injector and fuel lines!!!!!

You are ruining your engine with all this letting it keep going this bad and ladening your oil with gas , ruining your cat, destroying your bearings.

Replace it and stop fucking around like a teenager.

YOU need to chill.....there is absolutely no need for the language and badgering in your replys to him.

it is after all, his to do with as he pleases. maybe he doesnt have $350 to drop on it. its his entire right to replace only what is leaking at the moment. should it only be the nut kit leaking, then he doesnt need to spend $270 on an injector. if he has to replace the injector 20,000 miles from now so be it, its only a gasket and a little bit of time.

i know your gonna swear that'll he'll kill his motor, but he's already said the oil doesnt smell of gas, and unless he has raw gas going into the cat, he aint killing it either.

you seem to like being hard on peoples wallets.

YOU need to chill.....there is absolutely no need for the language and badgering in your replys to him.

You need to STFU and mind your own business.

it is after all, his to do with as he pleases. maybe he doesnt have $350 to drop on it. its his entire right to replace only what is leaking at the moment. should it only be the nut kit leaking, then he doesnt need to spend $270 on an injector. if he has to replace the injector 20,000 miles from now so be it, its only a gasket and a little bit of time.

Then why come in here and keep asking four or five times what is wrong when he won't even fix it. I told him what needs to replace to fix it and he keeps on pissing around. This is a waste of time.

And yes, you replace both and not just one or the other because they are both prone to failure. Replace both once and you are good to go for a long time.

i know your gonna swear that'll he'll kill his motor, but he's already said the oil doesnt smell of gas, and unless he has raw gas going into the cat, he aint killing it either.

Oh, and you know this do you? Tell me this, where is this gas going then?

Is it disappearing and going to LALA land?

Tell me this, how much experience do you have with the CPI injection system? Do you even own one or have even worked on one?

you seem to like being hard on peoples wallets.

And you need to kiss my ass and realize how much money I have saved people instead of throwing arrogant, ignorant and rude comments like that.

Why the hell I am doing in these forums moron....

What are you, some kind of ignorant knight in shining armour coming out of no where and spouting a bunch of bulshit about something you don't even know about?

Work on a CPI system for a while and then come back and question my repir practises and advice and until then STFU.

sometimes people need someone to wake them up and get them going instead of kicking the can around about a repair.

ok. as soon as i get the chance i'm going to pull the intake. i know the truck was bought from the dealer used and had about 45,000 on it in 98. i got the truck from my grandfather in 2003. between the time he got it and i got it the CPI was changed by the dealer. i don't think they changed the nut kit so i'm plainning on changing it. if i pull the intake and the CPI is leaking then i will change both. if the CPI was changed not that long ago then i'm not worried. can you get the CPI fuel lines that go to each F.I. unit? today i pulled the sensor out of the top of the motor and i could see what looks like 2 little puddles and so i used a cotten balled toll and soaked all of it up. i took it for a drive driving it easy and then checked it and it was the same. then i took it for a drive and raced it and came back and looked the same but the round part that you can see from the hole looked a little wet but not soaked. i still plan on pulling the intake but like i said it still runs ok for now and no gas smeel is in the oil. but when i get the chance i'm going to pull it and see whats happening. i know that no extra gas is being dumped in the cat because my EGR got fucked up a while back and it ran like shit and ran rich enough that you could smell raw gas. its not to that point. i don't know where the gas that is leaking is going but if i'm only leaking a teaspoon of gas after every tank then i'll get to it when i can. in about a week i should be able to pull it and see what happening. and blazerlt, i understand your concern but i don't have the time right now and i don't get paid untill last week and the little bit of money i had just went to pay for the insurance on the truck. next pay check which is in a week will pay for the job to be done. if it gets worse then i'll fix it sooner.

Blazerlt may know the exact answer but I believe that starting in 95 you can get individual fuel lines. I know for my 94 I had to buy the whole Spider unit even though I had only one line leaking(cylinder 1--wiring harness laying across tube rubbed a whole through---nice factory installation--lol). As far as fuel leaking it takes about 1-3% fuel in your engine oil (4-5 qts) to really see the viscosity thin out and the lubrication properties to be affected. Any fuel leaking is cause for concern and shoul be addressed ASAP because the longer ya wait the more potential there is for that leak to increase and cause the damage that you were trying/hoping to avoid. Follow Blazerlt's guidlines for looking at the cpi--it's detailed excellently.

ok. as soon as i get the chance i'm going to pull the intake. i know the truck was bought from the dealer used and had about 45,000 on it in 98. i got the truck from my grandfather in 2003. between the time he got it and i got it the CPI was changed by the dealer. i don't think they changed the nut kit so i'm plainning on changing it. if i pull the intake and the CPI is leaking then i will change both. if the CPI was changed not that long ago then i'm not worried. can you get the CPI fuel lines that go to each F.I. unit? today i pulled the sensor out of the top of the motor and i could see what looks like 2 little puddles and so i used a cotten balled toll and soaked all of it up. i took it for a drive driving it easy and then checked it and it was the same. then i took it for a drive and raced it and came back and looked the same but the round part that you can see from the hole looked a little wet but not soaked. i still plan on pulling the intake but like i said it still runs ok for now and no gas smeel is in the oil. but when i get the chance i'm going to pull it and see whats happening. i know that no extra gas is being dumped in the cat because my EGR got fucked up a while back and it ran like shit and ran rich enough that you could smell raw gas. its not to that point. i don't know where the gas that is leaking is going but if i'm only leaking a teaspoon of gas after every tank then i'll get to it when i can. in about a week i should be able to pull it and see what happening. and blazerlt, i understand your concern but i don't have the time right now and i don't get paid untill last week and the little bit of money i had just went to pay for the insurance on the truck. next pay check which is in a week will pay for the job to be done. if it gets worse then i'll fix it sooner.

Thanks for understanding that I am not trying to be a dick to you, but I am genuinely concerned for your situation and I know for a fact that your oil although is not smelling of gas is indeed being thinned out.

The revised CPI injector was not released until after 98 if memory concerns me well and the unit they swapped in is just as defective as the original.

Replace both the CPI injector and the nut kit as a pair. When you replace one or the other, you still disturb the other and they usually fail within a short time.

I am just trying to help you through experience.

Agina, thanks for understanding I am only here to help you. This is a major thing you need to take care of before anything else.

Blazerlt may know the exact answer but I believe that starting in 95 you can get individual fuel lines. I know for my 94 I had to buy the whole Spider unit even though I had only one line leaking(cylinder 1--wiring harness laying across tube rubbed a whole through---nice factory installation--lol). As far as fuel leaking it takes about 1-3% fuel in your engine oil (4-5 qts) to really see the viscosity thin out and the lubrication properties to be affected. Any fuel leaking is cause for concern and shoul be addressed ASAP because the longer ya wait the more potential there is for that leak to increase and cause the damage that you were trying/hoping to avoid. Follow Blazerlt's guidlines for looking at the cpi--it's detailed excellently.

Thank you for your kind words. When these CPI or nut kits leak, they leak in a big way and 4-5 % dilution within a couple weeks is not normal.

Plus the fuel acts as a solvent which dissolves a lot of sludge out of the engine and clogs the oil filter prematurely forcing it into unfiltering bypass mode.

Both are really bad.

You need to STFU and mind your own business.



Then why come in here and keep asking four or five times what is wrong when he won't even fix it. I told him what needs to replace to fix it and he keeps on pissing around. This is a waste of time.

And yes, you replace both and not just one or the other because they are both prone to failure. Replace both once and you are good to go for a long time.



Oh, and you know this do you? Tell me this, where is this gas going then?

Is it disappearing and going to LALA land?

Tell me this, how much experience do you have with the CPI injection system? Do you even own one or have even worked on one?



And you need to kiss my ass and realize how much money I have saved people instead of throwing arrogant, ignorant and rude comments like that.

Why the hell I am doing in these forums moron....

What are you, some kind of ignorant knight in shining armour coming out of no where and spouting a bunch of bulshit about something you don't even know about?

Work on a CPI system for a while and then come back and question my repir practises and advice and until then STFU.

sometimes people need someone to wake them up and get them going instead of kicking the can around about a repair.

1) i dont care how many times he comes here asking for help, you have NO right for all the cussing and name calling. if he doesnt wanna follow the advice given, then so be it, just quit posting to him.

2) its totally with in his right to only fix whats leaking. again, who says he has $270 to spend on an injector that may not be leaking, when $50 will fix the nut kit if its leaking. so what if the injector goes 20,000 miles later, that just 20,000 miles more (and over a year and a half on average mileage) he got out of it. its not like the entire motor has to be torn down to get to it.

3) yes you are reckless with peoples wallets. ie. you told me personally that i should spend $350 to replace my CPI thats not leaking, simply because it has 180,000 miles on it and it's "on borrowed time" as you put it. why not run it till it needs replaced? ive already gotten an extra 80,000 miles out of it by not using your logic. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

4) i didnt offer any ideas as where his gas was going, but if its not in the oil, and its not running really really rich, then it stands to reason that his leak isnt pouring lots of gas, and could very well be a fine mist that doesnt that doesnt have time to even form a puddle in the 5 miles that he drives, and then evaporates after he shuts it off. who know's where its going, but if its not in oil like he said, then hes not killing his lower end.

5) if you knew as much as you'd like to think you do, and i quote your previous post "More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating."
you'd know how stupid that sounds. the fuel pressure in the fuel lines and regulator are totally independant of the accelerator, meaning that regardless of whether the motor is idling or turning 5,000 rpms, if theres a fuel leak, then its gonna leak the same all the time because the fuel pressure remains constant and doesnt care how far your mashing the gas pedal.

6) yes i own a 95 CPI, so yes i know full well what im talking about. ive fixed more cars (physically, not from behind the keyboard like you) then you can shake a stick at. I have more specialty auto tools and manuals (scan tools and test equipment included) than most could dream of. i currently handle all repairs on 10 vehicles owned by me and my family members ( 2 S-10's '85 & '95, 1 Blazer '00, 5 Corsica's '88, '90 , '93 , '94 , '96, 1 '97 Malibu, and a '98 Cavalier)
none of these go back to the stealership for anything. the Corsicas alone demand alot of time. i'll be glad when the day comes that there all gone.

ive been fixing cars for the better part of 18 years, including several rebuilt carb's, the complete top end of a 400 small block chevy (72 Impala), replaced two transmissions ( 87 Grand Am, 94 Corsica), new cam in the 87 Grand Am thanks to a $2.00 valve lifter guide retainer that broke and dished two lobes of the cam, complete front strut replacement on the 94 Corsica, replaced the timing gear set on the 85 S-10, which requires the cam to be pulled because the cam gear is pressed on, repaired the front end of the '93 Corsica when my old lady rear ended another car, replaced a dozen or so alternators, the list goes on and on.

so dont sit there and tell me i have no idea what im talking about, i'll car repair you under the table any day.

bottom line, yes he needs to fix his problem without spending money on un-necessary parts. no, no matter what kinda spin you put on it, you dont have any excuse for the langauge, name calling, and personal attacks you've posted. however if you insist on calling me names, then you can come on down here and do it face to face, rather than hiding behind that keyboard. i'll guarantee you, you'll need help getting back home.

1) i dont care how many times he comes here asking for help, you have NO right for all the cussing and name calling. if he doesnt wanna follow the advice given, then so be it, just quit posting to him.

I'll do what I want and if you got a problem, how about YOU take a spoonful of your own medicine and STFU. As you can see, he understands I am only trying to help. As to your thoughts, I could care less.

2) its totally with in his right to only fix whats leaking. again, who says he has $270 to spend on an injector that may not be leaking, when $50 will fix the nut kit if its leaking. so what if the injector goes 20,000 miles later, that just 20,000 miles more (and over a year and a half on average mileage) he got out of it. its not like the entire motor has to be torn down to get to it.

You have everything open and sitting in front of you, get it all done in one shot instead of having it leave you stranded in the middle of no where. Maybe that extra money and 20,000miles you saved will pay for your tow truck and the local mechanic in the middle of no where that will charge you an arm and a leg because you decided to be cheap.

It's all about logic.

3) yes you are reckless with peoples wallets. ie. you told me personally that i should spend $350 to replace my CPI thats not leaking, simply because it has 180,000 miles on it and it's "on borrowed time" as you put it. why not run it till it needs replaced? ive already gotten an extra 80,000 miles out of it by not using your logic. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

I'm sorry, you have gotten 80,000miles in one month or something? Somehow I talked to you 4 years ago. When in hell's name have I talked to you about this? Please show proof where 80,000miles ago I talked to you about this. Also, show me proof that your CPI injector is not leaking. You probably don't know do you because you are hypothetically know its' condition from driving it right.....WRONG!

You show proof where I was reckless with people's wallets and I will show you 10x the threads where I saved people money.

4) i didnt offer any ideas as where his gas was going, but if its not in the oil, and its not running really really rich, then it stands to reason that his leak isnt pouring lots of gas, and could very well be a fine mist that doesnt that doesnt have time to even form a puddle in the 5 miles that he drives, and then evaporates after he shuts it off. who know's where its going, but if its not in oil like he said, then hes not killing his lower end.

Again, friggin read his latest posts and you will see that it is pooling in his lower intake after each trip he takes. Please read before you post your thoughts and bring yourself up to speed on the problem before posting nonsense.

Evaporates to where, where does gas trapped leaked fuel go in an enclosed area? Does it die and go to heaven?

5) if you knew as much as you'd like to think you do, and i quote your previous post "More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating." you'd know how stupid that sounds. the fuel pressure in the fuel lines and regulator are totally independant of the accelerator, meaning that regardless of whether the motor is idling or turning 5,000 rpms, if theres a fuel leak, then its gonna leak the same all the time because the fuel pressure remains constant and doesnt care how far your mashing the gas pedal.

Oh really, than you explain the gas smell coming from MY engine compartment when I was accelerating hard but not when I was idling and during normal acceleration.

6) yes i own a 95 CPI, so yes i know full well what im talking about. ive fixed more cars (physically, not from behind the keyboard like you) then you can shake a stick at. I have more specialty auto tools and manuals (scan tools and test equipment included) than most could dream of. i currently handle all repairs on 10 vehicles owned by me and my family members ( 2 S-10's '85 & '95, 1 Blazer '00, 5 Corsica's '88, '90 , '93 , '94 , '96, 1 '97 Malibu, and a '98 Cavalier)
none of these go back to the stealership for anything. the Corsicas alone demand alot of time. i'll be glad when the day comes that there all gone.

I could care less what you repair. I am not going to sit here and thump my chest trying to make myself look better than you. I have my knowledge about this situation and I will stick by my advice.

If you have a problem with it, you can kiss my ass.

ive been fixing cars for the better part of 18 years, including several rebuilt carb's, the complete top end of a 400 small block chevy (72 Impala), replaced two transmissions ( 87 Grand Am, 94 Corsica), new cam in the 87 Grand Am thanks to a $2.00 valve lifter guide retainer that broke and dished two lobes of the cam, complete front strut replacement on the 94 Corsica, replaced the timing gear set on the 85 S-10, which requires the cam to be pulled because the cam gear is pressed on, repaired the front end of the '93 Corsica when my old lady rear ended another car, replaced a dozen or so alternators, the list goes on and on.

Are you going to state all your repairs in your life and some desperate grasp at making yourself superior or something?

so dont sit there and tell me i have no idea what im talking about, i'll car repair you under the table any day.

LMAO! Look everyone, somehow he is challenging me to a intarweb repair competition!!!

My god, can you act anymore like a child? Grow the fuck up......

bottom line, yes he needs to fix his problem without spending money on un-necessary parts. no, no matter what kinda spin you put on it, you dont have any excuse for the langauge, name calling, and personal attacks you've posted. however if you insist on calling me names, then you can come on down here and do it face to face, rather than hiding behind that keyboard. i'll guarantee you, you'll need help getting back home.

OH LOOK, A PHYSICAL THREAT....LOLOLOLOL

You are a complete joke. So by your thoughts I can't swear but you can physically threaten me? Oh my god, you are the lowest of the low and a true representative of the intarweb keyboard commandos.

God, this is funny, you are such a fucking moron it is absolutely blinding.

Here is meathead's cliff notes:

You no swear.....grunt...you give bad advice...grunt....me repair many cars...grunt.....me repair many cars for many years.....grunt....don't swear.....grunt......I will beat you up cause I don't like your advice....grunt.....me tough intarweb internet commando....grunt....can I have a hug?

I find it kinda funney how you are both going at it over such a stupid thing but i don't want to get involed. if you 2 both want to still go at it then have fun and let me know who wins. as far as blazerlt, you said you have a gas smell coming from your engine compartment. was the engine off and cold, was the intake pulled off or were you driving and could smell it? on the pic below can anybody tell me where the nut kit is and the CPI. which side is the nut kit on. i checked the side with the leak and there is no change yet but i'm keeping a eye on it. sorry if the photo doesn't show but theres another one back a page or 2 of what the lower intake looks like. is it possable that the computer reading the exrta rich condition is leaning the gas mix to not run rich? and now i'm not pulling the lower manifold every time i'm looking at it. i'm only pulling the vavle on top of the motor under the Vortc plate. if you pull it of and look inside this is a easy way to see the CPI and this is how i smell the gas as well as seeing the area that looks washed. i have noticed that the truck starts a little rougher then when the gas was sitting there so i don't know whats up. i'm off all day friday so i might pull it and see whats going on and then put it back knowing what i have to fix. i plan on when i fix it that if i can just replace the nut kit since i think thats whats leaking and replace the fuel lines so that they won't leak later. does the CPI unit leak its self or does on of the lines leak? also towing is covered by insurance and if i get stuck somewhere then it will be towed and if the motors dead because of running it then i'll just drop in a 350 so its not really a diff to me. i'm just going to fix what the problem is now and if i get 2,000 more miles out of the CPI then i'll be happy and it was changed after 98 so it should be the better on and it shouldn't be leaking but if you could tell me which parts are which that would help.

Not quite sure what you are asking but maybe this will help.

http://forums.s-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=2278

Register on the s-10 forums(lots of good info--Blazerlt can attest to that)

I find it kinda funney how you are both going at it over such a stupid thing but i don't want to get involed. if you 2 both want to still go at it then have fun and let me know who wins. as far as blazerlt, you said you have a gas smell coming from your engine compartment. was the engine off and cold, was the intake pulled off or were you driving and could smell it? on the pic below can anybody tell me where the nut kit is and the CPI. which side is the nut kit on. i checked the side with the leak and there is no change yet but i'm keeping a eye on it. sorry if the photo doesn't show but theres another one back a page or 2 of what the lower intake looks like. is it possable that the computer reading the exrta rich condition is leaning the gas mix to not run rich? and now i'm not pulling the lower manifold every time i'm looking at it. i'm only pulling the vavle on top of the motor under the Vortc plate. if you pull it of and look inside this is a easy way to see the CPI and this is how i smell the gas as well as seeing the area that looks washed. i have noticed that the truck starts a little rougher then when the gas was sitting there so i don't know whats up. i'm off all day friday so i might pull it and see whats going on and then put it back knowing what i have to fix. i plan on when i fix it that if i can just replace the nut kit since i think thats whats leaking and replace the fuel lines so that they won't leak later. does the CPI unit leak its self or does on of the lines leak? also towing is covered by insurance and if i get stuck somewhere then it will be towed and if the motors dead because of running it then i'll just drop in a 350 so its not really a diff to me. i'm just going to fix what the problem is now and if i get 2,000 more miles out of the CPI then i'll be happy and it was changed after 98 so it should be the better on and it shouldn't be leaking but if you could tell me which parts are which that would help.

You have a bad fuel pressure regulator causing your leaking but you need to stop asking what to do and remove the cover and look for yourself.

1.) Open it up and look.

2.) For sure you injector is bad seeing the leaking pools of gas on the passenger inside portion of the plenum.

There is no question here, you keep on asking the same questions over and over and over.

Open up the plenum and replace the injector because for sure it is leaking if you have pools of gas in the passenger side.

The nutkit is 50 bucks and should be replaced with it.

Stop assuming because it was replaced in 1998 that it is fine.

This is getting incredibly frustrating and I am sick of answering the same question 10 times.

I am no longer going to help here, good luck.

Taking the plenum cover off is no big deal metallica. Like blazerlt said, replace both parts right away and save yourself some time and duplicate parts(plenum gasket). Yeah its only a couple of bucks but why do the same job twice? Plenty of good articles and pictures to help along the way. Take your own pictures before and during to help in the reasssembly if necessary. Nobody is gonna know.

I'm sorry, you have gotten 80,000miles in one month or something? Somehow I talked to you 4 years ago. When in hell's name have I talked to you about this? Please show proof where 80,000miles ago I talked to you about this. Also, show me proof that your CPI injector is not leaking. You probably don't know do you because you are hypothetically know its' condition from driving it right.....WRONG!

are you really that slow? cause im getting tired of explaining everything in a way that a 5 year old can understand.

80,000 miles more out of mine by not following your logic, because using your logic, i should have replaced it at 100,000 miles.

as for mine not leaking, my excellent gas mileage, no gas smell, no gas in the oil, is all the proof i need.





Oh really, than you explain the gas smell coming from MY engine compartment when I was accelerating hard but not when I was idling and during normal acceleration.

i stand by my previous statement, a fuel line under constant pressure is gonna leak the same no matter how far you mash the gas. accept it, your wrong no matter how much you think the gas smell changed.




Are you going to state all your repairs in your life and some desperate grasp at making yourself superior or something?

your the lowlife that acted like i know nothing about vehicles, i simply stated a small amount of what ive done. if your gonna make false statements about me, then you better be ready for the response.




LMAO! Look everyone, somehow he is challenging me to a intarweb repair competition!!!

web no, i stated that i can physically out repair you anyday. take away your keyboard and you couldnt fix squat.






OH LOOK, A PHYSICAL THREAT....LOLOLOLOL

You are a complete joke. So by your thoughts I can't swear but you can physically threaten me? Oh my god, you are the lowest of the low and a true representative of the intarweb keyboard commandos.

no threat, more like a promise. your the one hidding behind the keyboard, calling people names, being verbally abusive, etc. and i said if you want to continue that in your respnses to me, then come on down and do it face to face, rather than hide behind your keyboard. however we all know your not man enough. ive seen your kind on a many of forum, and it is indeed tiresome.


BTW, the only joke here is you


Here is meathead's cliff notes:

You no swear.....grunt...you give bad advice...grunt....me repair many cars...grunt.....me repair many cars for many years.....grunt....don't swear.....grunt......I will beat you up cause I don't like your advice....grunt.....me tough intarweb internet commando..grunt....can I have a hug?

there ya go.....and your telling me to grow up?

Pulling the upper intake manifold tomarrow aan i'll see whats going on. there still seems to be no change in the gas puddle levels but the intake still smells like gas. i hope to have it open with in a hour an back togather in about the same time. i'm planning to see whats bad and then put it back togather and then fix it later once i've gotten the parts. i know i should fix it while its open but if i don't have the parts with me then i can't fix it then and i can't drive the truck to get them. i think it might be getting worse though because now i noticed that sometimes when i drive it sounds like the motors not running right. i plan to follow s10forums.com way on pulling it.

if the motor feels like it is surging---not pulling smoothly than yep it's time to change it out. if ya haven't changed your oil in a while don't forget that too. s-10 forums is really good-very descriptive. if you don't replace the plenum gasket ya may have some leaks---don't forget, so the truck may run worse.

i'm on there site right now looking up how to pull it.

is the fuel regulator outside shell supposed to be black or like a golden color? how do you tell if the regulator is leaking from the bleed hole or outer gasket?

ok. i pulled the upper intake and it doesn't look washed but doesn't look dirty. when i pulled it i noticed that there was oil laying on the gasket around the EGR valve. could the oil leak some how making it look like a gas leak but not be leaking gas. after i put it back togather i took it for a drive and it seems to run a little better. i used head gasket sealent with the gasket os it would be a good seel. when i pulled the old one off it just pulled right up. it didn't stick at all and around the EGR port there was oil on the gasket. how elise could you have the intake smell like gas but not have a gas leak? and i wasn't able to get fuel lines to each injector. i can only by the entire CPI unit. i was going to change the lines since they were very stiff and could leak in the near future. i smelled the exhaust and it doesn't smell rich. i'll try to pst some pics of what it looked like. it had a golden color to it but you could see a thin oil film with some carbon or dirt stuck to it but i don't know if i have a leak or if its that clean from running injestor cleaner about evry month. i've been watching the gas milage and its about 350 a tank of 87 oct. its not all city but its not all high way. i still would like to know where i'm leaking gas if i am. i tried smelling all around the CPI and i couldn't smell any gas and i wiped down all of the fuel line including the regulator and turned the key on and let it sit for 15 mins and no wet spots and didn't smell like gas. i touched all 4 of the small puddles i could find and they all looked like oil and had a hint of gas to them but nothing to out of the norm and they had the same feel as oil does. wasn't extra runney. any ides?

Yep you have to buy the whole spider unit---that's the deal with that design. If your lines are stiff I'ld replace them. Also, did you clean out around your egr port? If you have some restriction you may get the effect of a "rich" smell due to gases being restricted plus it will affect your mileage. Check your pvc valve too. Oil deposits seem mysterious.

the EGR ports were clean when i pulled it off and there was a little bit of a oil film in them. i do race the truck 1-2 times a week. i think that may be why its so clean. like i said the gas mileage is doing good right now. the PCV valve is only about 2 weeks old.

i can't post the pics for some reason but give me your e-mail address and i'll e-mail them to you. they are what the upper intake looked like and the lower. there is also a few with the puddles i found laying in there.

is anybody have any idea on what i'm talking about? is this norm or not?

is anybody going to help?

Yeah suck when boy try to be men!

But I'm still wondering about the OBD1.5 to OBD2. Now I don;t care anywhich way how people feel about the swap itself! I want INFORMATION that does not include someones opinion!

FACT......PROVEN FACT On how to achieve the swap!

I don;t want "Its a waste of time" That does not concern me!

I don't want "OBD1.5 is OBD2" well if that were right I guess there wouldn't be two classifications.....Would there?

The added Sensors allow a great deal of headway when trying to trouble shoot a problem! Plain and simple! It is also "said" To be more fuel efficent with better control over fuel to air!


SO LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT
I want to know how to! Like I said above I don't give a german monkey's arse if it is not "worth the time" Or "Worth the money" that is your opinion! NOT MINE!

Yeah suck when boy try to be men!

But I'm still wondering about the OBD1.5 to OBD2. Now I don;t care anywhich way how people feel about the swap itself! I want INFORMATION that does not include someones opinion!

FACT......PROVEN FACT On how to achieve the swap!

I don;t want "Its a waste of time" That does not concern me!

I don't want "OBD1.5 is OBD2" well if that were right I guess there wouldn't be two classifications.....Would there?

The added Sensors allow a great deal of headway when trying to trouble shoot a problem! Plain and simple! It is also "said" To be more fuel efficent with better control over fuel to air!


SO LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT
I want to know how to! Like I said above I don't give a german monkey's arse if it is not "worth the time" Or "Worth the money" that is your opinion! NOT MINE!

if you have a 95 w/CPI then it should only be a matter of a flash upgrade to the computer.

go here http://calid.gm.com/vci/VINEntryPre.do and plug in your vin#, you should be able to find out.