Best way to glue dash pad back down?


Corkscrew
09-28-2004, 03:14 PM
Part of the dash pad covering on my mom's Lumina is coming apart and I'm going to try glue it back together. What's the best glue for that? Would epoxy work? It's a vinyl or flexible plastic covering with I believe a thin foam underneath, to be glued to the plastic 'frame/base/main part/whatever you call it', which probably has some residual glue and foam on it - trying to clean this out will probably cause the dash pad to split apart even more.

Also does anyone have a recommendation of a small clamp that I could leave in place to keep it secured? It can't be large since it would be on the front part of the dash pad up against the windshield.

CpaintCars
09-29-2004, 08:41 AM
If the dash is plastic you could try to use a plastic epoxy or fiberglass filler. Then you can sand it smooth, prime it then paint it. But its not going to be easy to make it look good...you may want to look into a bodyshop doing the repair for you or getting a new dash and painting it if you need to which would be much easier.

Corkscrew
10-01-2004, 09:34 AM
Sorry but I don't think you understand. Again, the dash panel is just thin vinyl (it's flexible), and I need to glue it down to the plastic underneath. No sanding or painting will be needed. It couldn't be sanded. This is not a big job. It's the much better route than buying a new dash (which aren't available anyway).

CraigFL
10-01-2004, 01:28 PM
I would use contact cement. Coat both parts, let it dry and then stick together. It will never come apart when it touches. If it's a larger area, put wax paper between the surfaces and align as you pull out the wax paper.

Corkscrew
10-02-2004, 01:01 PM
I don't own contact cement, nor have I ever used it. I do own epoxy, but if you think that will work better, I'll buy it.

Also have shoe goo, and E6000 glue.

CraigFL
10-04-2004, 07:57 AM
You should get ecperience with contact cement since it can be used for many things like this. It's not expensive. If you only have a small area, you can just buy a tube of it for 99 cents...

CpaintCars
10-04-2004, 12:00 PM
Oh ok...sorry about the misunderstanding.... Hes right though...contact cement would be the least expensive solution.

Corkscrew
10-05-2004, 03:24 PM
Any certain brand/name of contact cement you'd recommend? I have a Lowes across the street.

I'm not worried about price. I want what will hold the best, considering I wont be cleaning out the thin foam padding in between. I already have 2 part epoxy, and many other glues. I may even have contact cement if it has another fancy name by a mfg. :) I'll have to look later.

CraigFL
10-06-2004, 10:01 AM
There are many different brands but 3M and Duco are common...

lckycharm713
10-13-2004, 08:54 AM
i heard that gorrilla glue is good stuff. i am a carpenter and i know the stuff we use for roll roofing is some sticky stuff. i forgot what name it is, ill look tomorrow if need be, i see that is a week old, you may have done it already. just look watch out, so glues eat through vinyl.

Corkscrew
10-13-2004, 05:22 PM
No, I haven't done it yet. I can't decide what to use. It's basically a one time deal, since failed dried glue will screw it up and a re-do won't work to well.
Funny I was just thinking about Gorilla Glue this morning since I heard a commercial for it on the radio. I've never used the stuff.

lckycharm713
10-13-2004, 07:00 PM
i uncle uses it when he wounts deer heads. i think something where you have to glue both sides and let it wait for 5-10 mins is the best. i use 3M 90 on vinly. i used that on the door panals and headliner, worked well, but in your case, it seem like it wants to pull apart, so you need something strong.i need to do the same thing on my camaro. i see your new here, you might want to put that under a reg. trend under say camaro, or mustang. where theres alot of ppl to answer your question. someone might know more. also try doing a screach on glue dash. im sure someone had this b4. when i get some time , ill look for ya, ill see what i come up with, right now the gf is coming and she'll bitch that im not with her and on here. lol, you know how that works. good luck man

CraigFL
10-14-2004, 08:31 AM
Watch out for Gorilla glue --- it's good stuff when used in the right application. It's a polyurethane tye glue that foams to fill in gaps. It won't stick instantly like the contact cement but will take an hour or so to set. The foam will extrude out through the cracks and may damage the surface.

Corkscrew
10-14-2004, 03:09 PM
Again, there are no cracks.
I have the dash out. I can clamp it until it dries so that's not a problem.
So is it about the strongest stuff I can get? I'm not paying a lot for professional poly windshield sealant.

eckoman_pdx
10-15-2004, 12:54 AM
Dap Weldwood Landau top and trim Adhisve is a very good contact cement. It tacks very quickly, and it withstands heat up to 250+ degrees. It is much much much better than 3m Hi-Strength 90 (that stuff takes forever to tacky, don't waste the $$ on it). The Dap Weldwood Landau top and trim adhisve is the strongest stuff I have found bar none, and it tacks quick. 3M Hi-Strength 90 (their "strongest" spray bottle kind, part #8090) is pure junk if you want my 2 cents. Takes to long to tack, WAAAYYY to long, and doesn't hold to my liking eiither.
The Dap stuff can be shot out of a glue out, or you can pour some into a paint gun and shoot it that way (MUCH cheaper than a glue pot, since I am sure you don't have one). Now, assuming you don't have a compressor, you can brush it on as well. You can put the brush to soak in lacquer thinner when you're done to remove the contact cement so you can re-use it later. Just make sure to rinse it off and dry it before you re-use it again.

I don't know if you can get the Dap stuff in small amounts though, we get it @ the uphostery shop in 5 gallon pails. Also, try calling up the local upholstery wholesalers and ask about it, since I doubt lowe's-home depot carry it (I could be wrong, but I am almost sure they don't).

lckycharm713
10-15-2004, 06:41 PM
im liked the 3M but it got to be to much money. if you say that is sucks and you founded something better, thats good. i would like to try that myself then. if its stronger them 3M 90, try that man, what will it hurt, if it dont work clean it up and try something else. its not last and only time you have to do this on

eckoman_pdx
10-16-2004, 01:24 AM
im liked the 3M but it got to be to much money. if you say that is sucks and you founded something better, thats good. i would like to try that myself then. if its stronger them 3M 90, try that man, what will it hurt, if it dont work clean it up and try something else. its not last and only time you have to do this on

Oh, this stuff IS WAAYYY stronger than 3M 90. 3M is junk compared to this. It tacks within a FEW MINUTES, has a MUCH HIGER HEAT RESISTENCE RATING, and it is MUCH STRONER. This is a proffesional Landeu top and Trim Contact Cement. I warn you though, once it goes on, you'll have a hell of a time getting it off. It's also more economical, coming in big ass 5 gallon containers which ends up being much cheaper.

I've used the 3M, when I ran out of this over a weekend once and couldn't go back to work to get more since it was closed. I ran to the auto paint store @ got 3M 90. Took MUCH longer to tack, and it was harder to get to hold in streched tight areas. I was just crap compared to the Landeu top and trim stuff.

Dap makes some stuff in a spray can. Although it's not as good as their Landeu top and trim contact cement, it is better than 3m, and cheaper since you don't pay for the name.

When I was first hired and my boss told me 3M 90 "was garbage," I thought he was nuts. After being there awhile I realized he was absolutly correct. If we used that on customer cars, it would take WAAAYY to told to tack and wrap, and wouldn't hold up as well.

If you like 3m 90, great. Bt trust me, as an auto upholstery proffesional, the DAP stuff is MUCH MUCH Better. If you liked the 3M, then you'll be absolutly nuts about this, assuming you can find it, etc, lol.

I just finished wrapping the plastic trim peices of a seat in suede using the dap cement. Never could have done it with anything I've seen in a spraycan, 3M of otherwise. The curves, corners, and the tension it had to be pulled and hold would be way to much Looked very nice too. I'd load a few pics, but I can't find the progam to allow me to load the pics from the digi cam to the comp, so they are all stuck on the camera for now, lol.

a1rabbit
10-22-2004, 09:18 AM
Look in the phone book for an automotive upholstery shop, call them up and ask for advice. I'm sure this is a common problem, I've seen it on many vehicles... they may even do it for less than 20 bucks. I had a new headliner done for 30 including fabric.

Good luck.

eckoman_pdx
10-22-2004, 10:04 AM
Look in the phone book for an automotive upholstery shop, call them up and ask for advice. I'm sure this is a common problem, I've seen it on many vehicles... they may even do it for less than 20 bucks. I had a new headliner done for 30 including fabric.

Good luck.

I work @ an auto upholstery shop. I can tell you a new headliner installed costs way more than $30. You got one heck of a bargin there.

To fix the dash and guy it back down, if thats all what is required, should certainly cost more than $20. As I said, if those are the prices you are getting, you are getting one hell or a deal.

a1rabbit
10-22-2004, 11:10 AM
I installed the headliner, they just cleaned the board, and stuck on the fabric. I also forgot that I get discounts, oops. But only about 30%.

Well I am basing my assumption and price (which was a best case scenario) on what I understand from the post, I don't think it would be more than about 30-45 min of work for a shop to repair this dash assuming that it does not need to be removed. What it sounds like to me is a "small" tear/rip/stress crack. However I am no pro at this and did not read your post above mine, I posted not realizing there was a second page to read. I trust your judgment more so than my own.

I forgot to mention that I've also seen some vinyl/leather repair kits for varying prices.

Here is a link to what I mean. Not sure how good this stuff is though.

http://www.leatherrepairkits.com/google_index.htm

Good luck.

eckoman_pdx
10-22-2004, 06:55 PM
I installed the headliner, they just cleaned the board, and stuck on the fabric. I also forgot that I get discounts, oops. But only about 30%.

Well I am basing my assumption and price (which was a best case scenario) on what I understand from the post, I don't think it would be more than about 30-45 min of work for a shop to repair this dash assuming that it does not need to be removed. What it sounds like to me is a "small" tear/rip/stress crack. However I am no pro at this and did not read your post above mine, I posted not realizing there was a second page to read. I trust your judgment more so than my own.

I forgot to mention that I've also seen some vinyl/leather repair kits for varying prices.

Here is a link to what I mean. Not sure how good this stuff is though.

http://www.leatherrepairkits.com/google_index.htm

Good luck.

Oh, it's all good. Wasn't trying to complain or anything I just didn't want to poor guy to go down, talk to a shop and be like.."but I can't get it done for $20-30, and they won't do my headliner that low. I figured you did get it down that low...thats why I said you got 1 heck of a deal. After you explained it, it makes sense.

rcfryer
12-02-2004, 05:50 PM
I agree. The DAP Landow top adhesive is the absolute best contact glue around. It's easy to work with and is waterproof and very strong. It can be applied very thin so it wont cause a bump and still retain its strength. :naughty: Use in a well ventilated area, though. It has some powerful fumes that can affect you. Good luck with your project.

Corkscrew
12-22-2004, 12:22 PM
Hey, thanks, and no offense, but people in forums, automotive or not, often say to contact a so-and-so supplier, but often they just don't exist in the yellow pages or there are simply none locally anyway (mail order). And if they do, they don't want to, or can't help an individual that isn't a business/customer. At least, I can't find any upholstery wholesaler in my area.
And one upholstery shop I called say they get their glue (which wasn't the DAP stuff, which they haven't heard of) in 55 gallon barrels and say to try the auto parts stores. Another said he's tried every glue they make, incl. stuff for formica, and nothing will hold the dash pad down. He said he uses Genesco contact cement. He had heard of the DAP stuff. He said silicone will hold better than contact cement since it will withstand the heat better.

Since you work at an upholstery show eckoman, and are here on the forum, it seems you would be more likely to find out this information for me than anyone.

Thanks again.

eckoman_pdx
12-27-2004, 01:49 AM
Hey, thanks, and no offense, but people in forums, automotive or not, often say to contact a so-and-so supplier, but often they just don't exist in the yellow pages or there are simply none locally anyway (mail order). And if they do, they don't want to, or can't help an individual that isn't a business/customer. At least, I can't find any upholstery wholesaler in my area.
And one upholstery shop I called say they get their glue (which wasn't the DAP stuff, which they haven't heard of) in 55 gallon barrels and say to try the auto parts stores. Another said he's tried every glue they make, incl. stuff for formica, and nothing will hold the dash pad down. He said he uses Genesco contact cement. He had heard of the DAP stuff. He said silicone will hold better than contact cement since it will withstand the heat better.

Since you work at an upholstery show eckoman, and are here on the forum, it seems you would be more likely to find out this information for me than anyone.

Thanks again.

Well, we used DAP landue top and trim contact cement, you definatly buy it in barrles less than 55 gallons, I've never seen it in barrels that large. You can buy it in 5 Gallon or 1 gallon pails. It is flamable until it dries, but once it dries thats not an issue. It can withstand heat of up to 225 or 250 degrees (i forget which it is off the top of my head) and it tacks very quickly. I mean, 3 minutes, I think 5 is the longest I've had to wait. I've never really heard of silicon being used as an adhesive ever, though it doesn't seem like a great idea. The DAP Weldwood landue top and trim contact cement has a high heat resistance as I said (in the range of 225-250 degrees), so I've never heard of releasing due to heat being an issue. I'll see what I can dig up on the other stuff you mentioned, but the Landue top and trim has the highest heat resistance I have found so far (not saying there are not others out there with more. If I find anything else out I will let you know.

Since you can't find places that sell it in your area, here are 2 wholesale places in Portland that sell it.

Hoch & Shelby Co, 503-234-6476

Perfect Fit-McDonald, Inc.
Portland, OR: 503-234-9325
Tukwila, WA: 206-682-7161
http://www.perfectfit.com/
Product Number DAP-0306 for 5 gallon and DAP-0307 for 1 gallon
DAP WELDWOOD TOP & TRIM ADHESIVE 5 GALLONS (http://www.perfectfit.com/products/shopexd.asp?id=220)
It is not available for shipping by UPS,though I know they have other shipping methods they can ship stuff with. You'll likly want access to an air compressor. Since you won't have a glue pot, pore some of the contact cement into a spray gun and shoot it out of that.

I hope some of this helps a bit.

I hope this helps a bit.

Corkscrew
01-06-2005, 11:23 AM
Thank you for the info. A couple more questions before I bother calling them.

Any idea how much a one gallon can is? It's likely I won't use but a tiny bit and won't use it again until the rest in the can gets too hard. I'd say if it's over $20, I'll not mess with it. This is for two small areas on the dash, maybe 6 inches by a couple inches.

Can I apply it by brush. I don't have a gun, won't be buying one, and considering the location (between dash pad and base), and small areas to glue, it'd be hard to spray anyway.

eckoman_pdx
01-06-2005, 10:30 PM
Thank you for the info. A couple more questions before I bother calling them.

Any idea how much a one gallon can is? It's likely I won't use but a tiny bit and won't use it again until the rest in the can gets too hard. I'd say if it's over $20, I'll not mess with it. This is for two small areas on the dash, maybe 6 inches by a couple inches.

Can I apply it by brush. I don't have a gun, won't be buying one, and considering the location (between dash pad and base), and small areas to glue, it'd be hard to spray anyway.

Yes, you can brush it on. Soak your brush in lacquer thinner when your done to clean it.

I'm sure a gallon is more than $20, but how much it costs I am not sure off the top of my head. Give me a few days and I'll find out.

Corkscrew
01-07-2005, 03:05 PM
I can't justify the purchase then, for reasons above, and I'll just try the cheaper stuff. This is my moms car and she plans to get rid of it later in the year, so as long as it holds for a little while and looks decent for the sale.

If I could just come up with some small, thin, strong, clips that would slip over the edge of the dash (it's only separated towards the edge), that would help it hold it.

Wal Mart does have a quart size of DAP Weldwood contact adhesive. Is this close to your stuff?

I do have pics of the dash, BTW.

eckoman_pdx
01-08-2005, 03:36 AM
Hmm, without seeing it I can't tell. Is it called "DAP Weldwood Contact Adhesive, Landau Top and Trim HHR Solvent Type Spray Grade." If it does it's the same stuff. If not...hmm, you can always try it if the other costs to much for your small usage needs. What section is it in, and what does the bottle look like? I go to a walmart here next time I pass and try and see if I can find it so I can get a look @ it.

Even the DAP Weldwood spray can is pretty strong stuff. I suspect that stuff should be okay for your needs, especially if it's a spray type contact adhesive, which is sounds like it is. As long as you can pout it into a little cup container, you should be able to brush it on okay.

Corkscrew
01-09-2005, 01:29 AM
It's this one:
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=35

It's in the section where all the other glues and paint supplies are.

eckoman_pdx
02-22-2005, 10:03 PM
It's this one:
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=35

It's in the section where all the other glues and paint supplies are.

Nope, thats different stuff. Not sure at all how that will hold up in high heat, etc...so I can't say much about it. The stuff we use is Professional-Grade Contact Cement, "Landua Top and Trim HHR Solvant type spray grade contact cement,"It would be this stuff on there site...the "Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant High Solids Contact Adhesive"
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=109&prodhdrid=351
This is also similer, but it's not high solids...
http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?subcatid=109&catid=4&prodhdrid=302

It is a spray grade contact cement, but you can brush it on also since I doubt you have a spray gun and compressor. It's the same stuff available @ prefit fit. Oh yes, the prices...I forgot to post those for you. I checked that for you. 1 Gallon = $12.50. 5 Gallons = $44. If you look for it locally, that gives you fiar pricing ideas.

If you want I can take a picture @ some point of the 1 gallon can and post it up here for you if that helps. I'm not sure how that stuff you showed would work. I don't have any idea how the stuff you shoulded would work for automotive apps, but that is specifically what the landau top and trim stuff is made for. I hope this helps a bit.

Corkscrew
02-26-2005, 04:29 PM
eckoman_pdx, thanks again. I don't guess you send me a pint of that glue?

I have pics of the dash in this gallery:
http://img78.exs.cx/gal.php?g=corner11iv.jpg
The only parts I need to glue are on the front edge of the dash in the left(right in the pics) corner and in the middle.

eckoman_pdx
03-04-2005, 09:38 PM
eckoman_pdx, thanks again. I don't guess you send me a pint of that glue?

I have pics of the dash in this gallery:
http://img78.exs.cx/gal.php?g=corner11iv.jpg
The only parts I need to glue are on the front edge of the dash in the left(right in the pics) corner and in the middle.

It would definatly work in gluing those spots of the dash down, no question about it.

Send you a pint huh? Can't find it and don't want to order a gallon? I'd have to see if you can even ship it UPS first, I beilive Perfect-Fit ships the contact cement via freight and not UPS, and I'm pretty sure if they do there's a reason as to why.

dice daniels
03-07-2005, 02:41 AM
contact cement doesnt take to heat well and doesnt stick to plastic well enough to glue something that is trying to pull back up again.

Gorilla glue is a good idea and fiberglass resin would work too.so would epoxy or even liquid nails in some cases. But on anything in the interior you need to use heat resistant glues or shit just falls apart in the summer.

eckoman_pdx
03-07-2005, 03:15 AM
contact cement doesnt take to heat well and doesnt stick to plastic well enough to glue something that is trying to pull back up again.

Gorilla glue is a good idea and fiberglass resin would work too.so would epoxy or even liquid nails in some cases. But on anything in the interior you need to use heat resistant glues or shit just falls apart in the summer.

This stuff I recommended is professional spray grade HHR Landua Top and Trim adhsive...it has a very high heat resistance of over 235 degrees, I think it's around 250...it's not crap like spray can 3M Super 77 or High Strength 90, or even the DAP spray can that's so easily available (which sucks on plastics). I didn't recommend the crap, I went straight to the HHR stuff that would more than hold. This stuff will hold on almost any surface, plastic, wood, door panel, headliner, landau top, floor board...doesn't matter and when it's on, it's on, so get it right the first time. Thats what we use @ the shop out of the glue pot. It's also what I used to wrap all the panels, the headliner, the pillers, etc in my own car (makes sense I'd use it since it's what we use, hahaha) and I've never had a delaminating problem in my or another car.

The DAP Weldwood HHR DAP WELDWOOD TOP & TRIM ADHESIVE (high solids) isn't some POS contact cement like ppl think when they hear the term. This is very very good stuff,a nd this is what it's made for. It has one of the highest heat resistances I've seen.

True, you need to use heat reistant glues, that why I suggested this stuff. It was a very high heat resistance, as I mentioned above and before. It's not low resistance "contact crap" like I see so many people using in DIY projecots. This is the stuff we use @ the uphostery shop, and as I said above it has a very high heat resistance.

http://www.perfectfit.com/products/shopexd.asp?id=220

Now I've heard of Gorrilla glue and Liquid Nails before but never used them so I can't say a thing about them. As I said, this stuff is HHR and has a very high heat resistant...never had issue with it delaminating. As you said, you need a product with high heat resistance, and that is exactly what this has. It's made to withstand the hot summer heat on landua tops and more, so it'll handle heat. Corkscrew, if you can't find it or get any though, I suppose you can try his suggestions if you can find them...I can't say if they'll work or not though...but if they don't work I guess that puts you right back in the situation you are in at worst, lol.

dice daniels
03-08-2005, 04:51 PM
Well seince its trim adheisive Its probably nice and flexable which is a bonus. I'll have to check it out. I made the mistake of using 3M's crap for a few projects and I would'nt recomend it to anyone for anything. It holds about as good as hairspray would. The only adheisive I have ever liked came in a tweed kit for door panels. Rod doors was the company that sold it. Have'nt been able to find it anywhere else though. I'm betting its the same stuff only different lable. Dries in like 20 seconds and wont let go. Good link. Thanks!!!

eckoman_pdx
03-14-2005, 10:59 PM
Well seince its trim adheisive Its probably nice and flexable which is a bonus. I'll have to check it out. I made the mistake of using 3M's crap for a few projects and I would'nt recomend it to anyone for anything. It holds about as good as hairspray would. The only adheisive I have ever liked came in a tweed kit for door panels. Rod doors was the company that sold it. Have'nt been able to find it anywhere else though. I'm betting its the same stuff only different lable. Dries in like 20 seconds and wont let go. Good link. Thanks!!!


Dries quick and won't let go...sounds nice...LOL...the DAP is very good. ZTacks quickly and stays on...doesn't let go. #M..oh man....it's CRAP compared to this stuff...I mean seriosuly...I made the mistake once of not keeping a spare quart @ home. I brought a jar home from the shop but spilled it half-way through the night and ran out @ like 6am the morning of a car show I was tro be in. I had to buy this 3m Hi-Strenght 90 crap from a local paint shop that was open from 8:30-1 on saturdays...since it was a saturday. If it had been the week I could have gone to the uphostery shop and just poured a little more...but we are closed on saturdays...so was the supplier, so I was screwed. The 3m worked (of sorts) for the show...but man...absolute crap..especially buy comparison. I got finished @ like 10:30am and got to the show 15 minutes before it started...they held the doors open for me....hahaha...last time I ever didn't keep a spare quart lying around the house on top of the one I'm using.

dice daniels
03-14-2005, 11:06 PM
Have you ever tried gluing a headliner on with that 3m crap? They should be out of buisness by now if you ask me. And they ask like 9-11 bucks a can for their "high strength" crap that wouldnt glue a feather to the floor.

eckoman_pdx
03-14-2005, 11:10 PM
Have you ever tried gluing a headliner on with that 3m crap? They should be out of buisness by now if you ask me. And they ask like 9-11 bucks a can for their "high strength" crap that wouldnt glue a feather to the floor.

I nevee tired gluing a headliner with that crap. IO've glued geadliners fine with the DAP stuff. After how bad the 3M was for 1 door panel insert...I'd never try using it on anything else. You said it well...absolute crap...it's amazing they still have people who buy it. And 3 claims it will work for headliners....HA...what a a joke...You know the scary thing...It's some of their BETTER stuff...hahaha...have you ever tired Super 77? I have never used it but a long time ago before I learned uphostery I had a friend who did...now THAT was crap!!!

dice daniels
03-14-2005, 11:53 PM
Before I got into upholstry I thought I understood the concept well enough to fix a friends headliner. We went out and picked up some nice material and I grabbed a can of the high strength stuff all the while acting like I knew what I was doing just so that he would let me fix it. It was killing my eyes to look at it let alone the heat rotted foam that flew around in the car when the windows were down. We scraped all the foam off the headliner and just glued the material directly to the headliner without padding. It looked great. We used some of the realy soft animal printed material you can get at any walmart. Kinda like the blankets you can but at those little parkinglot stores that come through town in the summers. Anyway It lasted all day And I got all kinds of compliments from my friend. The next day he went out and the material was pretty much hanging on by the edges that were tucked under. He was pissed. I finaly did what I should have done originaly and went to an upholstry shop and picked up some scrim and some good adheisive. The kind they used had to be put on with a brush. And to make it even more secure I paid to have some buttons made with the scrap material and spaced them in a dimond patern. That's actualy the job that got me into upholstry. That week I went to work at the same shop pulling staples and by the end of the month I was doing automotive interiors. I ended up doing the center panels on his seats and the dash and rear deck out of the same material. It looks like a pimp mobile but it was good practice. Anyway I talk too much. 3M sucks ass.

eckoman_pdx
03-15-2005, 12:19 AM
Before I got into upholstry I thought I understood the concept well enough to fix a friends headliner. We went out and picked up some nice material and I grabbed a can of the high strength stuff all the while acting like I knew what I was doing just so that he would let me fix it. It was killing my eyes to look at it let alone the heat rotted foam that flew around in the car when the windows were down. We scraped all the foam off the headliner and just glued the material directly to the headliner without padding. It looked great. We used some of the realy soft animal printed material you can get at any walmart. Kinda like the blankets you can but at those little parkinglot stores that come through town in the summers. Anyway It lasted all day And I got all kinds of compliments from my friend. The next day he went out and the material was pretty much hanging on by the edges that were tucked under. He was pissed. I finaly did what I should have done originaly and went to an upholstry shop and picked up some scrim and some good adheisive. The kind they used had to be put on with a brush. And to make it even more secure I paid to have some buttons made with the scrap material and spaced them in a dimond patern. That's actualy the job that got me into upholstry. That week I went to work at the same shop pulling staples and by the end of the month I was doing automotive interiors. I ended up doing the center panels on his seats and the dash and rear deck out of the same material. It looks like a pimp mobile but it was good practice. Anyway I talk too much. 3M sucks ass.

Ahh, one can never talk too much!!! It's always good to share stories and swap ideas, pics of projecots, etc...:biggrin:...helps give new ideas and prevent future disasters like using that 3M would cause!!! I got my uphostery job by calling around ay back when and asking if someone would be willing to train me as an apprentice. I knew the basicas already on how to do most of the this, and new several wholesalers in the area and a godd deal about what products to use..I just needed practical application time and skill...so Darryl was more than willing to take me in and train me as an apprentice...I still thank him to this day...I can't repay him enough!!! He didn't have to do that back in the day.

dice daniels
03-15-2005, 12:37 AM
Yea well dont give me too much room to talk cus I can write a book.

Yea it was pretty much the same way how I got started. I brought the car in and showed it to the lady who owned the shop and she put me to work. She was retired and had another guy running the shop for her. She was the shit!!! I've still got alot to learn but she showed me how to teach myself. I learned alot of cool things from her(frankie) and (bill). I owe them alot more than thanks.

Since then I have moved away, and It's hard to find that one shop that I will feel comfortable in. I have no machine cus of the cash flow problem so I have to find other work until I find a shop that I can be myself in. I have some peircings that tend to make some of the shop owners sceptical of my talents. But upholstry is an art, and most artists are very interesting or flat out luney people. Or just realy old I have found. It is the one trade that I have natural talent in. And I hope to get into the buisness again soon.

eckoman_pdx
03-15-2005, 04:47 PM
Yea well dont give me too much room to talk cus I can write a book.

Yea it was pretty much the same way how I got started. I brought the car in and showed it to the lady who owned the shop and she put me to work. She was retired and had another guy running the shop for her. She was the shit!!! I've still got alot to learn but she showed me how to teach myself. I learned alot of cool things from her(frankie) and (bill). I owe them alot more than thanks.

Since then I have moved away, and It's hard to find that one shop that I will feel comfortable in. I have no machine cus of the cash flow problem so I have to find other work until I find a shop that I can be myself in. I have some peircings that tend to make some of the shop owners sceptical of my talents. But upholstry is an art, and most artists are very interesting or flat out luney people. Or just realy old I have found. It is the one trade that I have natural talent in. And I hope to get into the buisness again soon.

Hahaha...I can write a book too...in fact several of my posts have been referred to as "eckoman's books" over the years. :biggrin: Hopefully you can find a shop to work @ soon or hopefully you'll be able to afford afford your own machine.:)

dice daniels
03-15-2005, 11:04 PM
Hey thanks man. You seem like a pretty cool cat.

By the way how are people adding pics to their posts? I cant figure it out for the life of me

eckoman_pdx
03-15-2005, 11:14 PM
Hey thanks man. You seem like a pretty cool cat.

By the way how are people adding pics to their posts? I cant figure it out for the life of me

Thanks man...you seem pretty cool too.

As for the pics, you first have to host it somewhere onthe web...photobuck, here inthe AF Gallery, etc...Once the picture it hosted somewhere, you put the link to the pics in the thread with {IMG} before the link and {/IMG}


Replace the above { and } marks with [ and ] though...I used the wrong makes on purpose so it would show and not try to link up with the pic...

so if you'd do something like this, as explained above...the picture will show...

{img}http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/70393Novasuede_wrapped_seats.JPG{/img}

however, you'd replace all the { and } marks with [ and ]...as I said before. Once that's done...it will link up and post the picture in your post like follows...it's a pic of a seat I re-wrapped in Novasuede...headrest isn't in the pic though.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/70393Novasuede_wrapped_seats.JPG

I hope this little explanation helped.

dice daniels
03-16-2005, 12:55 AM
Hey thanx man. Good lookin bucket. Wish I had the money to use nova sued in my van. That stuff is pricy. Realy does feel like sued leather though. Fools alot of people. If I remember right there is some stuff out there called ultra sued that is just like it only a little less exspensive. You do some clean work. If thats burgandy down the center It would match my van nicely:)

eckoman_pdx
03-16-2005, 04:34 PM
Hey thanx man. Good lookin bucket. Wish I had the money to use nova sued in my van. That stuff is pricy. Realy does feel like sued leather though. Fools alot of people. If I remember right there is some stuff out there called ultra sued that is just like it only a little less exspensive. You do some clean work. If thats burgandy down the center It would match my van nicely:)

Yup, thats Burgandy down the center, they call it "Borduex"...but it's Burgandy to me!!! It matchs the car great. It really does feel and look like suede. Other good synthetic suedes are Ultrasuede and Alcantara. Novasuede was the cheapest around here wholesale, followed by Ultrasuede. Wholesale is much better than retail, but still a bunch on a budget!! The only wholesale place I found Alactara so far is Gulf Fabrics in Florida. I know of the Local Ultrasuede and Novasuede wholesalers here. Uphostery grade Novasuede has around 100,000 double rubs I believe, and Ultrasuede is 200,000 double rubs. Both are much more durable than regular fabric, thats for sure.

Thanks for the compliment, I think it looks clean too...:)

JLU
03-17-2005, 02:18 PM
Ok heres the deal, the Luminas are bad about having this type of problems with there dash boards
its a shame but it was a bad design. the only way to do this repair and it is the right way to do it is you will have to have the windsheild removed so that you have a open work aria then lift the open part of the dash clean both parts with paint thiner or denatured alcahal the adhisive you want to use is 3M fast tack trim adhisive glue both parts and press the vinyl pad back in place to the hard shell
its best to let the set up for 24 hours you may need to to use a hair blow drier to make the vinyl flexable again to glue it. Good Luck

Corkscrew
05-12-2005, 12:03 PM
Ok heres the deal, the Luminas are bad about having this type of problems with there dash boards
its a shame but it was a bad design. the only way to do this repair and it is the right way to do it is you will have to have the windsheild removed so that you have a open work aria then lift the open part of the dash clean both parts with paint thiner or denatured alcahal the adhisive you want to use is 3M fast tack trim adhisive glue both parts and press the vinyl pad back in place to the hard shell
its best to let the set up for 24 hours you may need to to use a hair blow drier to make the vinyl flexable again to glue it. Good Luck

Uh, yeah.

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