96 Blazer Timing Problem


LukeBickers
09-27-2004, 02:31 PM
i just changed my intake gaskets and had to take off the distributer. now that it is back together, the distributer isn't tight. it is bolted down as tight as it will go, but the distibuter is still loose. what do i need to do? and any suggestions on timing once it is set?

Mikado14
09-27-2004, 08:17 PM
Sounds as though you did not get the distributor shaft engaged with the oil pump. You may have to use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to engage the distributor shaft. One of those trial and error things. Turn the pump, try the dist. and repeat until it seats.

LukeBickers
09-27-2004, 08:31 PM
bingo, i fixed that. now, it did start, but it's running terrible! once it got to idling, it would run for a few seconds die down for a split second and come back up. it was idling pretty high and there was an extremely large amount of air coming out. also, the temp came up to about 240 and wouldn't budge from there. there is plenty of fluids in it. any ideas? is it just my timing that needs adjusted?

Mikado14
09-27-2004, 08:35 PM
You need your timing adjusted. Try to manually turn the distributor to retard it a bit prior to doing any other adjustments and see how that affects it.

You will need to disconnect the timing wire to eliminate the computer. I believe it is under the glove box but I'm sure if BlazerLT is on, he will know exactly. Once that is disconnected, you can set your timing using the mark on the pulley. When done, reconnect the wire.

LukeBickers
09-27-2004, 08:42 PM
alright. that will be my next step. if anyone knows exactly where it is and the best way to get to it, please let me know.

thanks for all your help, so far.

LukeBickers
09-28-2004, 12:02 PM
bump this up.

i'm going to work on this in a few hours. how do i get to the timing wire? anyone know for sure?

also, does anyone know if the engine temperature could be in relation to the timing being off? thanks!

Jeremy-WI
09-28-2004, 12:18 PM
TO set the timing on the 96 and newer, get the engine to tdc on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Now on the distributor gear there is a dimple(above or below the pin that holds the gear on) that must be lined up with a line on the distributor shaft. Check to see if the distributor gear will line up correctly with the oil pump- may need LONG screwdriver and flashlight. Now carefully install distributor, if its installed correctly the rotor should be pointing towards a 'V" shaped pointer on the distributor housing(should be close on a v6)

BlazerLT
09-28-2004, 02:41 PM
HOLD ON GUYS!

You CAN'T adjust the timing on a 1996!

It is complete computer and sensor controlled.

DO NOT ADJUST!!!

gmsteve455
09-28-2004, 03:29 PM
HOLD ON GUYS!

You CAN'T adjust the timing on a 1996!

It is complete computer and sensor controlled.

DO NOT ADJUST!!!

Correct, you can not adjust the timing but you do need to correct the CKP/CMP correlation problem. I just built a 4.3 and put the distributor in the engine while #1 was at TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor was pointing to the "6" arrow on the distributor body. The rotor was actually a little to the left of the arrow but it was as close as I could get it. I started the motor and got a check engine which turned out to be the P1345 code. The snappy trouble shooter said that the distributor was probably 1 tooth off so I'm going to remove the distributor and move it one tooth clockwise and see what the cam retard is. Right now it reads 45 but the troubleshooter said that it should be -1, 0 or 1. Hopefully that will work any other ideas? I'm going to try this out tonight when I get home from my real job.

Steve

Jeremy-WI
09-28-2004, 04:31 PM
You must be a tooth off yet, I think the spec on the 4.3 is +/- 15 degrees, on the V8's its +/-2 degrees probably because the 4.3 has the fixed distributor. It might be +/-20 on the 4.3

LukeBickers
09-28-2004, 06:28 PM
HOLD ON GUYS!

You CAN'T adjust the timing on a 1996!

It is complete computer and sensor controlled.

DO NOT ADJUST!!!


ok, then what could be wrong? what do i do now?

BlazerLT
09-28-2004, 08:14 PM
You sure you installed the distributor exactly the way it came out?

Have you had the engine hooked up to a scanner and checked the sensor conditions?

LukeBickers
09-28-2004, 08:17 PM
no, i'm not sure. i thought that i had, but i'm not positive. i'll check that out tomorrow.

gmsteve455
09-29-2004, 01:29 PM
I got mine running without the check engine last night. Exactly as Jeremy-WI said, get the engine to TDC compression stroke on #1, line up the mark on the distributor gear with the white line on the housing above the gear before you put the distributor in. When it is all the way in (engaged to the cam gear and oil pump), the rotor will be very close to the arrow on the top of the housing. Mine started up fine with no problems and the scanner said that the cam retard was 0 degrees. Time to drive it out of my barn . . . .

BlazerLT
09-29-2004, 01:41 PM
Excellent.

LukeBickers
09-29-2004, 02:34 PM
essentially, that's probably what i'm going to do. luckily, my father is a superintendent at a heavy construction place. the mechanic there is kind enough to come and help me out for no charge. he has looked this up in one of his books and says that it will be no problem to fix for me, so i'll keep you posted. i'm ready to get this out of the car and on the road. now that it came out of the body shop, it's looking really good. but i can't drive it. it sucks!

BlazerLT
09-29-2004, 02:45 PM
I like diesel, no sprakplugs or timing.

Mikado14
09-29-2004, 06:44 PM
The injection pump has timing.

LukeBickers
09-29-2004, 10:18 PM
i almost got it going tonight. at least it's sounding a lot better. i looked in the 97' edition of chiltons and it said that i can time it. but, you can't just move the rotor as it is locked in. yes, i believe that i am just one tooth off. when i went to move the tooth, i adjusted it two on accident. i moved it back, got a new dist. cap and rotor (the old ones were pretty shot as well).

now, it turns over really well (sounds like it always has) but won't start. i don't know if it's flooded or not, i'm far from a mechanic.

Jeremy-WI
10-01-2004, 07:51 PM
Luke, just have to try the method I posted until the rotor lines up

LukeBickers
10-02-2004, 11:44 AM
TO set the timing on the 96 and newer, get the engine to tdc on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Now on the distributor gear there is a dimple(above or below the pin that holds the gear on) that must be lined up with a line on the distributor shaft. Check to see if the distributor gear will line up correctly with the oil pump- may need LONG screwdriver and flashlight. Now carefully install distributor, if its installed correctly the rotor should be pointing towards a 'V" shaped pointer on the distributor housing(should be close on a v6)


i did all this. everytime i get it lined up perfectly and get the cap and plugs on and start it up, it won't start. when i take the cap off, the rotor seems to have jumped from where i set it. what am i doing wrong?

BlazerLT
10-02-2004, 02:58 PM
Take it into a shop bro and have them set it.

LukeBickers
10-02-2004, 05:03 PM
at this point, i would then have to pay a tow truck to have them come and get it and take it to a shop to get ripped off.

so, no. that's not an option. i found out why it's doing that. the base above the teeth on the distributer needs to be turned counterclockwise and put into place just like that. it is a little dificult to do and i've failed to pull it off twice now, but i will figure it out.

BlazerLT
10-02-2004, 10:46 PM
Honestly bro, I am not bashing you, but you just don't know what you are doing and you should have it brought to a shop or have someone knowledgable come over and help you with it.

Right now you are just doing the trial and error and hoping to get lucky.

Maybe the Distributor is 180 degrees off?

LukeBickers
10-05-2004, 09:42 PM
ok, my dad's friend came over and helped. it didn't work. we definitely got it in right several times. we did find a vacuum hose that was not connected to anything (the three way connector was broken and it left one hose hanging.)

the rotor would only skip sometimes, so we are thinking maybe it is the timing belt? any thoughts on that?

like i said, we had it running once, but it was running really high and sucking too much air. that was probably due to the vacuum hose being off.

any ideas other than take it to a shop? i don't need a blazer forum for that answer.

BlazerLT
10-05-2004, 11:28 PM
You have to have it hooked up to a scanner to check out the sensors.

LukeBickers
10-05-2004, 11:30 PM
we did have it hooked up. it didn't reveal any problems with the timing or anything.

what sensors are you refering to?

BlazerLT
10-05-2004, 11:48 PM
All the sensors, whether they are set up and ready to go.

What computer scanner did you use?

LukeBickers
10-06-2004, 10:31 AM
it was a gm scanner made by snap on. it was not mine, it belonged to my fathers mechanic friend.

Mikado14
10-06-2004, 11:09 AM
Did you try cranking the engine over to watch the rotor (with the distributor cap off) to ensure that it is rotating evenly? If it is jerky, you have a bad timing chain. You better get yourself a good manual and replace it. Not really that hard just takes time. Just stop trying to get the engine running.

Next, it will run like a "turd" if there is any vacuum leaks. The line I believe you are referring to supplies vacuum for accessories. Just plug to get the engine running, provided of course the problem is not the timing chain.

Come back and let us know.

LukeBickers
10-06-2004, 11:36 AM
yes, i cranked w/ dis. cap off. last night it didn't skip a beat and worked as it was supposed to. however, two nights ago, the rotor skipped about 20% of the time.

i had it started a week ago. it ran horrible. it ran really fast, sucked a lot of air and if i pressed on the accelerator it would nearly die.

my dad is supposed to be contacting a mechanic that used to work for him (who has now obtained an additonal mechanics degree from gm and works at a dealer). i think i may be able to get him to come and help me out for free. but i will get that vacuum hose on today and see if that does anything. thanks!

Mikado14
10-06-2004, 07:48 PM
From what you described, it appears that you have that engine terribly retarded.

LukeBickers
10-09-2004, 05:42 PM
1996 blazer 4.3, 4 wheel drive.

ok. my timing problem was the chain. It had slipped quite a bit when i got to the chain and gears. also, upon comparing the new chain and old, the old one had streched about 1/8th-1/4th of an inch. i got the timing belt changed out and now i can't get the cover back on. according to chiltons and haynes, i need to drop the oil pan about 1/4 of an inch to get the cover in place. this is true and a completely ridiculous engineering idea.

however, i loosened all bolts that i could see and i can't get the pan to lower at all. i haven't been rough with it (for the sake of the gasket), but i have tried to knock it out with a block of wood and mallet. it didn't budge.

also, both chilton and haynes have it listed as 12 bolts and i can only see 10. does anyone know how to get to the back 2 bolts (1 on left, 1 on right). since this is an aluminum pan, maybe those bolts have to be loosened up as well?

has anyone else had to do this? anyone have any suggestions? (outside of lifting the motor and making this a huge ordeal)

LukeBickers
10-21-2004, 11:49 AM
problem fixed! car runs and runs better than ever!!!!!!

Ok, I had a Gm Master Mechanic come out and look it over and he found the problem and got the distributer set in about 45 minutes. However, I saved a ton of $$ by replacing the intake man. gasket and the timing chain myself. I have about 250 bucks wrapped up in parts.

the final problem was the collection of wires that runs at the back above the engine. we had to move those wires a couple of times to get the distributer in and out so that we could time it. therefore, the plug wasn't secured. he traced all the bad wires from the pcm and found that in no time. the distributer was one tooth off, but we had just moved it a tooth to see if that was the problem. so we had it right and we made it wrong.

now, with new plugs, wires, pcv, fuel filter, tranny flush, refill, new filters for tranny, oil, air, timing chain and cover, new gaskets on tranny pan, manifold and cover, dist. cap and rotor, several new hoses on the vacuum and the cooling system, radiator cap and serpentine belt it's back and better than ever! it's also cleaner than ever, since i cleaned all parts really well before putting them back in. i have more pickup now that i ever have had and i'm sure gas mileage will be much better as well. i smell a little bit of coolant, but i think that it's in one of the hoses that i didn't replace (upper, lower radiator and the hoses going to the firewall for the heater core). or maybe the rad. cap. i just replaced with a non-oem to see if that cured it. or it may just be old antifreeze that spilled burning off. I washed the inside really good and i'll see what it is. i can't find a single drop of antifreeze anywhere on the motor or on anything attatched. the water pump is 6 months old and everthing else in the cooling system is nearly new, except the actual radiator and some of the hoses.

now, the only thing i need to figure out is why the damn dash vents won't work! it only comes out of the floor and defrost. i replaced the vacuum hoses that come from the vaccum tank mounted on the hood. i replaced them as far i could trace them, or as far as they went. Any ideas on this one?

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