i am still having the same problem i did as in the "rough everything" thread. but i made a new thread becuase most people respond to the first post and not many people respond to posts at the bottom. anyways, i will re-explain my problem to anybody who doesn't know, and also add another detail that just started to pop up.

okay, when i start my car, the idle is rough and it what it SOUNDS LIKE is if it has a whole in the exhaust. as the *puff puff puff* sound. and when i accelerate, it still makes the *puff puff puff* sound. and i have barely any power while it is doing this. this lasts for about 1-3 minutes and then INSTANTLY goes away. no gradually going back to normal, just all the sudden my exhaust is smooth again and i have all my power back.

now, for the added detail. it only does it when i start it up after i have been driving it for a while. but if she sits for over 5 hours and cools down (i.e. in the morning), she doesn't do it. so she does it only when she is warm.

i will post somebodies suggestion on what it might be, he said that my ecu, when i turn on my car, is always going to go through the "cold loop". but when my ecu finally figures out that my car is actually warm, it goes to the "warm loop" and then in turn my car is back to normal. could this be it? any other suggestions besides tps?

-Jared

Doesnt sound like your Throttle Position sensor (TPS).

Does it smell like its running rich?
if yes, then it could be you ETS sending the wrong message to your ECU saying its not warm yet or that its cold all of a sudden, and the ECU says we must add fuel, LOTS of fuel.

It could also be your O2S they could have gone bad or been fouled in some way, this would cause a lean reading causeing the car to suddenly add alot of fuel, and make it run rich, or lean if the opposite was read by the O2S. This would cause a slight *puff*/back fire sound out the tail pipe. Mine does that while its cold but it goes away once it is warm. I figure I could get it to stop all together once I replace the Cats, fuel Injectors, and exhaust system. The exhaust is a personal thing, cant stand stock exhaust systems, they are cheap and restrictive, get better milage after replacing that and intake.

If it doesnt smell rich,
It could just be a hole in the exhaust system somewhere possibly around the headers, or head, this would cause a drastict loss in power, and it could go away once the car is warm do to the exhaust system expanding as it gets to temp.

Hope this helps a bit.

but it never happens when it is cold. it only happens when it is warm. i was also kind of thinking my o2 sensors cuz i am getting about 15 mpg right now. that bad gas mileage is killing me. oh, and where is the ets and what does it stand for? thanks for the help.

-Jared

Sorry I miss read your post, about the only when warm thing.


ETS stands for Engine Temp Sensor. Most of the time its near the inlet hose for coolant into the engine, may want to look it up in a Z service manual. Some engineers like to put simple things in funny places.

As for the milage its starting to point more towards the ETS or the O2S, if it were a O2S it would set a code. The ETS would also set a code. Both are relativily easy to fix, and diagnose if there is a problem with either. But it does sound like that your ECU is getting a bad signal from one of the two and figuring it needs to add more fuel, so the car will run extremely rich, and kill milage, but will prevent over heating and kill power, along with your cats if you have them still. BTW you dont want to drive around for to long wih this issue, it will clog the cats up faster than cat snot.

about this code, i know what you are talking about, but how do i find out what code it is giving. the diagnostics computer thingy at my local autoparts store doesn't have a connector for OBDI import cars. so how would i find out the code it is throwing out?

-Jared

Found it, the ETS is on the front center top part of the engine. There will be 2 sensors right there, one with a thin wire that will be your dash engine temp sensor the other one on the passenger side or right side of the engine will be the ETS.


OK found the trouble shooting chart to chech the ECT, its easy as hell. Hope you have a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter) .

Just got to back probe the ECU at pin 28, with engine off, start engine and read voltage, make sure you have a good chasis ground when doing this. It should read from cold to hot 5.0V to 0.0V or close to depending on temp. You want to set the DVOM for Ohms, disconect the ETS/ECT from the harness then check the ground side of the harnes, from pin 30 on the ECU side to pin A on the ETS/ECT side. If it fails the first test do the second test, if it fails the second test its your harnes.

To test the ECT/ETS its Resistance values should be as follows,
68deg F -- 2.1-2.9Kilo Ohms
122deg F - 0.68-1.00 Kilo Ohms
176deg F - 0.30-0.33 Kilo Ohms

If its not in any of those at all then its the ETS/ECT. If its in them then its most likely the O2 sensors, Easy enough.

Sorry about the confusion earlier with te ECT/ETS, in the world of Vovlos the Swedes call it the Engine Temp Sensor, not the Engine Coolant Temp sensor.

you probably don't want your car running or any voltage going to your ecu harness when you're doing the resistance test... otherwise bye bye meter

You'll just blow a fuse, not that bad.

But yeah make sure the car is off for the Ohms test. But it HAS to be on for the volt tests. Otherwise you wont get any readings.

thanks a lot. i will either do it tomorrow or the day after.