Parking Brake not holding on 94 Escort GT.

I am at a loss that I can't figure out such a simple mechanism. I have replaced the entire back disc braking system including the entire parking brake system and I still can't get the thing to hold.

The only item not changed is the master brake cylinder.

So now I'm here in this great forum pleading for help.

Question: Does the parking brake system rely on any hydraulics?

Strange things: When I had to replace the back calipers the 1st time I had to screw them back in but the new replacements all I have to do is push it back in to remove the pads. Why, or does is even matter.

By the way the parking brakes when out slowly, not all at once and all replacement parts are from autozone.

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well, there is a adjustable screw under the consol in the car. pull off the plasic cover and tighten the screw next to the handle. the system is total mechanical so if that doesnt work, your wire that connects the handle to the brakes may be to long. hope it helps.

well, there is a adjustable screw under the consol in the car. pull off the plasic cover and tighten the screw next to the handle. the system is total mechanical so if that doesnt work, your wire that connects the handle to the brakes may be to long. hope it helps.

Been there done that and adjustment at the wheel and under the car... all cables and handle have been replaced.

Thanks anyway...

There just must be some trick to getting it to work but I can't figure it out. The strange thing is even if I pull the Parking brake lever at the new calipers I can just get them to catch. Lever has to move almost 3 inches to engage. Seem a bit much to me.
Can anyone send me a pic of the back disc parking brake that is working.

I can change a timing belt but can't get parking brake working is making me really frustrated.

Ther is an allen head adjustment screw on the rear brake calipers
for parking brake adjustment. you might try messing with that.

actually that screw isnt nessesarily just for parking brakes, but you wont be able to just see it. it has a really short bolt over it, so you have to unscrew that bolt then the adjustment gear is inside that. the bolt is pretty much right behind the piston on the back side of the caliper.

actually that screw isnt nessesarily just for parking brakes, but you wont be able to just see it. it has a really short bolt over it, so you have to unscrew that bolt then the adjustment gear is inside that. the bolt is pretty much right behind the piston on the back side of the caliper.

This was exactly the simple solution to my problem which took ony two years for me to figure out with a little help from the internet. Guess I have been working on rear drum brakes too long.

Thanks you for the input.

I'm having the same problem, but I already tried screwing with that allen screw and I still can't get my ebrake to hold at all.

wow this is a really old post. I dont have my escort anymore, so I had to read this a couple ties to even remember what I was saying.

well did you adjust the nut at the e-brake handle?
then did you adjust the nuts/bolts at the back half of the cable near the rear brakes?
and you said you adjusted the adjustment gear thats hidden behind that bolt, which is not just for the e-brake, it adjusts where the caliper piston is, so when you put on new pads, you sometimes need to adjust the piston out to accomodate for the extra material on the new pads, or vice versa and you adjust that gear when your pads are getting thin and move the piston in to make up for the gap in the brakes. one thing you might want to try is even getting new cables. I had to at one point because I tried adjusting the nut at the handle so many times that I pulled the bolt right off the cable and brke it. so you may have pulled it loose, but not off yet and that cable just isnt applying the force needed.

or I could just be losing my mind, I havent had the escort for over year, so thinking about it is a little fuzzy.

I can not beleive that it's almost $100 for the 2 rear e brake cables, they best go from the handle all the way back or I'm gonna be livid. I adjust that nut on the handle and nothing, it's not broken though because I have to use both arms to pull that handle up and I'm not a weak boy. The cables become really really damn tight underneath but the brackets on the back of the caliper don't move at all.

I dontm ean to burst you bubble.... but your going to be livid... sorry. there are three cables actually. the one taht goes from the handle down to the center of the rear area, and it has a link thing on it taht holds the other two cables that go the each back brake. but I think that small center one was less tahn $20, maybe $12 I think, but it was a while ago, so I dont quite remember. but eyah for me I replaced all three and it was like $120 from checker.

woohooo and it didn't even work. Yea I wasn't too happy when I found that out, wasn't too happy either when the driver side cable was different from the passenger side while they're both from the same company. Replaced caliper and cables and the ebrake still doesn't work, it's like the cable isn't even pulling even though it's tight at the handle and everything is intact.

yep thats the way it goes, I reaplced all that, and it stil didnt hold. so I said fuck this, im not trying to figure it out and just kept parking in gear.

Sounds like you have the wrong calipers(now).The originals you had to "unscrew" to get the piston back in were like this because they rode on a type of "ratchet and pawl" mechanism that also operates the emergency brake.

new calipers are just like the old ones minues the leaking bleeder screw on the passenger side that the old one's had...now I got a brand new caliper with a jb welded bleeder screw on the drivers side. Is it impossible for companies to make GOOD OEM replacement brake parts for the drivers side or what?

You stated in your first post that with the original calipers you had to screw the pistons back in to the caliper bore.(to get them to retract)((as oppossed to pushing in the new ones))And DID NOT with the replacements.OBVIOUSLLY the difference. This is common with this design of caliper where they incorporate the emergency brake into the mechanical linkage with some type of ratchet/pawl mechanism.The ratchet and pawl mechanism in the caliper itself.I cannot see how any other type of caliper will operate the emergency brake properly in these configfurations.Perhaps there are 2 different calipers for this application? Perhaps you got the wrong ones? There is also the possibility that these new different calipers that you have now somehow incorporate this feature..or have some other parts?etc to make this work.I don't know 100%.I DO KNOW that you pick up the phone and make a real quick call to a couple of Ford dealerships in the service or parts department..OR the tech lines at the two largest brake parts manufacturers..on the planet..Wagner or Bendix..and explain the situation and what I have said and they should be able to help you. I assure you my friend there is NO WAY that ANY CORRECT replacement calipers would NOT allow the emergency brake to work. You made a change to the caliper (design).I'd be going back to that stage.Good luck.