Loud Bang when hitting bumps


riojas
09-13-2004, 09:04 AM
1992 Grand Vayager 3.3 - When hitting a sharp bump in the road I hear a loud solid bang in the egine compartment. What could this be?

I replaced the front struts but that did not help. My only though is the front motor mount has gone bad again, but that was replaced 3 yreas ago along with cv joints.

Question: After replacing front struts do I need to get an alignment?

capoeta
09-13-2004, 09:53 AM
have you checked the swaybar bushings?

riojas
09-13-2004, 10:22 AM
No, I have not but will do tonight. What am I looking for visually? No bushing at all, loose connection, etc..

thanks..

mrlong
09-13-2004, 10:28 AM
I believe that you should get an alignment. I've replaced my sway bar bushings, ball joints, struts, and had my motor mounts tightened to get rid of my bang, and never got it. Mine is from the bearing plate in the strut apparently.

riojas
09-13-2004, 10:52 AM
. Mine is from the bearing plate in the strut apparently.

Please explain futher? Bearing plate I presume is the top portion of the strut that houses the bearing and holds the spring in place, but how does it go bad that it would make such a loud bang? How can I tell if mine is bad as I just had the springs reloaded on the stuts by a mechanic and he did not mention that the plate was bad. Oh, how much was the part and how is it referenced in a parts list. (sounds like a dealer only part).

thanks

mrlong
09-13-2004, 10:07 PM
Yes, that's where it is, right at the top and they have to compress the spring to get it out. I had my front struts changed, but they didn't notice the plate I guess. Not really sure what goes wrong there, but they found it by putting a stethescope on the strut and driving the car with a mechanic riding in the engine compartment. I believe they quoted me $250 Canadian for one strut, maybe it was $350. I didn't get it done because I don't think it's a big problem, but when I have some spare money I'll do it - hate the sound of the clunk.

CarBob
09-21-2004, 01:17 AM
1992 Grand Vayager 3.3 - When hitting a sharp bump in the road I hear a loud solid bang in the egine compartment. What could this be?

I replaced the front struts but that did not help. My only though is the front motor mount has gone bad again, but that was replaced 3 yreas ago along with cv joints.

Question: After replacing front struts do I need to get an alignment?

I have a 1992 Caravan that experienced similar symptoms last year. It rode smooth except for when I hit sharp bumps (like you feel when you cross a bridge or enter some driveways) then BAM!!! I hated that. It made me cringe. I took it to Firestone and asked them to check it out when I had my alignment done. They replaced the struts. I really didn't feel that was so much the problem because my ride was otherwise really good, but I tried it anyway. The problem persisted, so I took it to another Firestone where they discovered the "jounce bumpers" were shot. They are basically a rubber bumper that prevents the slamming sound you've been hearing. My Caravan had about 160,000 miles on it at the time, and these were the original bumpers. They replaced them and that took care of the problem immediately. They only charged me for parts, because the other dealer should have caught the problem (plus they probably overcharged me by replacing struts I didn't really need). The jounce bumpers are a dealer part and cost around $38.00 for the pair. By the way, I have replaced all of my motor mounts. They were never part of a banging sound;however, I did notice that even after I had relplaced them, I would often times still get a little clunk sound when shifting gears. The problem was the front mount. Though new, it had a little bit of play between the rubber and the metal, so I used a couple of old plastic putty knives to make shims to take-up the slack in the mount. Now the mount functions like it should; it holds the engine firmly, but cushions vibrations etc. I hope this helps.

mrlong
09-21-2004, 07:40 AM
I don't suppose that you can tell me where to find the 'jounce bumpers'. Never heard of them and can't see anything that looks like that.

racenut65
09-22-2004, 10:01 AM
I have a 1999 T&C AWD with a similar issue except it is in the right rear only. Have had it checked several times and it is still not fixed. One place tried to tell me it was the rear driveshaft bouncing in the mounting brackets. The van has the automatic leveling system which seems to work fine and the shocks are in good condition. I hook up my camper or carry a heavy load and the sound is gone when I hit bumps. Time to start looking at this problem again when I get the van back from a transmission replacement at 86,000 miles! Any thoughts???? Thanks!:confused:

lord4scrye
09-22-2004, 04:39 PM
When I changed the front struts and didn't put the old pads back between the steel strut and the spring, it did that, when I put them back on, it stopped...

riojas
09-23-2004, 10:41 AM
Are these the same part from the above posts?

jounce bumpers = old pads back between the steel strut and the spring

If so, do the strut & spring unit have to be disassembled to install. I too have already installed new struts to try to fix this problem to no avail. I did it myself and took the strut assembly to a local shop to load the springs for $20 each. Oh, do these things just fall off or what? I did not see any type of rubber/urethane bumpers when I removed them. Where is the exact location of this bumper?

Note: BANG seems to only come from the passenger side front wheel and my next thought was to replace the spring but if all I need is a bumper of some type that would be great.

Good note on the front engine mount as mine does the same thing. Will shim next time I get under there


Thanks.

CarBob
09-23-2004, 12:27 PM
I don't suppose that you can tell me where to find the 'jounce bumpers'. Never heard of them and can't see anything that looks like that.

I do most of my own car work, but honestly, I have never worked on the struts. I've either had them replaced under warranty, or in this case, I was in transit and without my tools. That's why Firestone did them. Anyway, if you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, you can see the location of the bumper in the suspension and steering systems section under strut replacement. The assembly does need to be unassembled to replace the bumper. As described in my Haynes 84-93 Caravan/Voyager manual, here is the order of parts from top to bottom: nuts, shock tower, retainer, mount assembly, washer, spring seat, BUMPER, dust shield, spacer, coil spring, isolator, strut damper, and lower mounting nuts and bolts. Since I haven't personally done this job, I'm not certain if any of the other parts are plastic/rubber (i.e., retainer, washer, spacer). I would recommend replacing any parts that are rubber or plastic while you've got the whole thing apart. I do know that immediately after the bumper was replaced, the LOUD BAND went bye bye. Good luck!

VR,

CarBob

ishop4less
09-25-2004, 10:00 AM
I believe only dealer have the item called "bump stop" when you go to the dealer they know if you mention that. It's like a rubber that place on top of the shock, when you buy a new shock this bump stop never come with it. Replace it I guarantee the loud bang will dessapear.

CarBob
09-25-2004, 10:05 AM
That is correct. The bumpers are a dealer item. Sorry. I know I thought it. I just forgot to type it. :)

Dayalalito
08-24-2005, 02:33 PM
[you can also get this BUMPER from NAPA they sell the stops for around $15.00, when you order they mention that an additional parts ie needed ...

riojas
01-01-2006, 05:12 PM
Wow! I didn't think it had been over a year since original post. I finally got around to putting the bumper in last week (came along with the bellow $35 dealer) and that sledgehammer hitting the bottom of the van has gone away. Hindsight: After 180,000 mile it would have been better to just buy pre-loaded struts (spring included). It cost me $70 a strut, $35 for bumper and $20 to have someone load the old spring (incorrectly at that). I unloaded the strut myself to put the bumper on the 2nd time I took off the strut. For $165 you can have a new spring, bumper, all other rubber stuff on top, bushing, top plate, strut and got it right the 1st time. Taking the strut off was easy and I would not have to wait to or pay for someone else to put the spring on, although using the borrowed compression tool was simple and only slightly dangerous when used. Why bother with all the pieces when one can get the whole package new and would not have to had to deal with the sledgehammer sound. Just my two cents.

(Tip: Put something under the break drum hub to hold it up or else it will fall severely to one side pulling with it the CV shaft to a point where transmission fluid will leak out from the other end of the CV shaft when the strut is taken off.)

mrlong
01-05-2006, 01:26 AM
Well, I replaced my strut mounts with bearing plates, and I still have my clunk. Can't begin to guess where it is now. Bearing plates were toast though and it's good to have new ones in.

riojas
01-06-2006, 03:55 PM
Well, I replaced my strut mounts with bearing plates, and I still have my clunk. Can't begin to guess where it is now. Bearing plates were toast though and it's good to have new ones in.

Clunk with driving over pothole or just out of nowhere? I had another clunk that was being caused at the connection between of the exhaust manifold and tail pipe. On occasions with the van shifted gears weakend motor mounts allowed the the engine to move more than designed causing the part of the pipe joint to slam against the bottom of the floorboard. Just a though.

riojas
01-06-2006, 04:08 PM
Clunk with driving over pothole or just out of nowhere? I had another clunk that was being caused at the connection between of the exhaust manifold and tail pipe. On occasions with the van shifted gears weakend motor mounts allowed the the engine to move more than designed causing the part of the pipe joint to slam against the bottom of the floorboard. Just a though.

Be sure there is a rubber something between the plate and the part where the shaft comes out of the shock. The one I bought slides snuggly on the shaft and was able to move up or down.

On a side note: Three days after fixing this problem, putting on a new CV joint, a new belt tensioner & belt the engine failed (engine go boom!) at 214,000 miles. It was a good Van. I found chunks of aluminum casting in the oil pan. Just my luck. It was a good Voyager of 10 years. Looking for a new car and going to part out the van the best I can. So if anyone needs anything from a 92 3.3 Grand Voyager drop me a letter.

mrlong
01-06-2006, 07:29 PM
Clunk is a solid one and it has to be coming from the steering or suspension. Mine happens when the wheels are partially turned and I'm just starting up or cornering.

jolleyi
01-07-2006, 04:58 PM
[you can also get this BUMPER from NAPA they sell the stops for around $15.00, when you order they mention that an additional parts ie needed ...
On a related note I noticed that i have some rust in and around the top of the strut mounting area. Has anyone any experience of this?
I assume I will ned to get a plate welded in place to strengthen this otherwise I'm ging to have struts banging through the hood sometime.
Any ideas of cost to get this done?

riojas
01-09-2006, 11:50 AM
Clunk is a solid one and it has to be coming from the steering or suspension. Mine happens when the wheels are partially turned and I'm just starting up or cornering.

CV joints maybe going bad? Check to see if the rubber boot covers on the CV Joint shafts have split/cracked open which would allow the grease to escape u-joint berings. (this is why I had to replaced the cv shaft mentioined above) If so then it possible you will need to replace one or both of them.

mrlong
01-09-2006, 12:58 PM
Nope, they're fine. It almost sounds like some component shifts when you have the steering at a certain angle and you give it throttle.

capoeta
01-13-2006, 04:04 PM
Nope, they're fine. It almost sounds like some component shifts when you have the steering at a certain angle and you give it throttle.


Check your Lower control arm bushings...

I replaced everything and I do mean everything, in the front suspension and it would still bottom out.

I original bushings were completely shot and did not offer any resistance to bumps or arms swinging up/down.

They are cheap/easy to do and you don't even need a press..


* jack up vehicle from chassi
* remove front wheels
* remove two bolts/nuts holding lower control arms to K-member. There are two bolts per side.
* arm should swing down and bushings are now visible
* using utility knife cut one side of each bushing (2 bushings per c.arm)
* with hammer, hit bushing out of it's housing

now install new bushings.


I recommend the use of Moog bushings.. I purchase my set from O'reilly's. The Moog bushings are designed for DIY. The bushings are a two piece set (per joint) and make it easy to install without needing a press.

Now all you have to do is press control arm with new bushings back into K-member. I had to massage the K-member slots with a BFH to open 'em slighty to allow the arms to slide in...


My clunks went away and the ride is back to new...

good luck.

Art

mrlong
01-13-2006, 07:16 PM
Do you know the part number for those bushing?

capoeta
01-16-2006, 12:02 AM
MOOG Lower Control Arm Bushing/Kit
2 per car.

o'reilly's part #. K7294

Web price: $20.99 per side... limm. lifetime warrant..

hassanbigboss
02-25-2006, 11:42 PM
I have had the same bang noise problem with my 2004 T&C. I thought I had bad bushings or other shock problems. I later found out that the steering bars that turn the vehicle had leaked. I got those fixed and the noise went away. I do not assume that you have the same problem but you should get it checked.

johnny56
03-16-2006, 11:31 AM
inner Sway Bar Bushings

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