The check engine light is going on and off, more on than off these days. Probable cuplrit???

a small vac. hose rotting in half under the egr valve

I have a ’95 Villager with 320,000 Km and after driving about 100K with the check engine light on (in spite of replacing the O2 sensors), a friend replaced the Back Pressure Transducer (BPT) hose -- a $9.95 item -- and the check engine light has never came on again.
When he took off the hose, the hose just about turned to powder when he squeezed it in his hands during the removal.
If you got an EGR Code 32 or DTC P0400 this could be the problem. I think there is a service bulletin TSB 98-052 addressing the BPT hose.
Hope this helps.
Pylet

go to autozone and have your codes read for free. then well know the problem.

go to autozone and have your codes read for free. then well know the problem. I know this is an old thread, but I went to Autozone today to have the codes read on my 1994 Villager and they said they only do 1995 and newer. I thought that 1996 and newer were OBD II? Are they able to do a 1994 even though it's OBD I, or were they being lazy?
:confused:

no they are right 96 and up is all that there scanner can read

no they are right 96 and up is all that there scanner can read Thanks for the reply. I found a place to scan it, and it came up with 3 codes. Throttle Position Sensor, EGR Valve, and Knock Sensor. For right now, I just had them replace the TPS since that controls when the tranny shifts and the van was shifting funny. From looking around the forum, I've seen you say that you shouldn't mess with the knock sensor. What's the deal with that? Should I just leave it alone and do the EGR Valve? Thanks in advance.

Anyone? Should I just change the EGR Valve and leave the Knock Sensor alone?

The knock sensor is like your fingertips if you poke them it tells your brain to tell your mouth to scream OUCH. So in engine terms if your tps is bad then your car stumbles and the engine feels the pain so your knock sensor triggers you CEL and you have it checked. Replace the hose under the EGR it is broken for sure. You can do it yourself and only spend $1 for the 3-4 inch hose. The knock sensor code will clear it self once the egr hose is fixed. If not have the shop clear it for you but do not FIX IT. You will still get a code if the van has the egr problem. ITS ONLY FUNCTION IS TO CHECK FOR VIBRATION WHICH IS CAUSED BY OTHER PROBLEMS IT IS ALWAYS IN SLEEP MODE AND ONLY WORKS WHEN THERES A PROBLEM. IN FACT HAVING A CODE FROM THE KNOCK SENSOR IS GREAT THAT WAY YOU KNOW TO LOOK OUT FOR PROBLEM.

The knock sensor is like your fingertips if you poke them it tells your brain to tell your mouth to scream OUCH. So in engine terms if your tps is bad then your car stumbles and the engine feels the pain so your knock sensor triggers you CEL and you have it checked. Replace the hose under the EGR it is broken for sure. You can do it yourself and only spend $1 for the 3-4 inch hose. The knock sensor code will clear it self once the egr hose is fixed. If not have the shop clear it for you but do not FIX IT. You will still get a code if the van has the egr problem. ITS ONLY FUNCTION IS TO CHECK FOR VIBRATION WHICH IS CAUSED BY OTHER PROBLEMS IT IS ALWAYS IN SLEEP MODE AND ONLY WORKS WHEN THERES A PROBLEM. IN FACT HAVING A CODE FROM THE KNOCK SENSOR IS GREAT THAT WAY YOU KNOW TO LOOK OUT FOR PROBLEM.
Thanks for the input. I'm going to have that checked out in the morning. I don't see a listing for an EGR hose, so I'm assuming that I just need to replace the whole EGR Valve. It's real funny that the mechanic was trying to push me to get the Knock Sensor done. I told him I'd be back just to get the EGR done and he said "No, get the Knock Sensor done!" Thanks again.

the hose is bad and it is avaible at any autoparts store its just not a part number you need just a piece of hose that they sell by feet or inches depending. remove yourself with engine cold and take it to them and they will give the right length and size. don't waste money till you know its broke.

I took it back to the same shop and had them replace the hose under the EGR, and clear the codes. I drove about 40 miles, and so far no CEL. Thanks again. You've saved me a bunch of cash. They were going to just replace the whole EGR Valve!

this is why the forum is so important. Every single car I have ever owned since PC were avaible I have researched my problems online. You will not be the first or last person to have that problem or any other. I was nice to know that you waited to get a response b4 spending money for a part that who even knows what it cost when all you needed was a little hose. Keep posting questions and answers to benefit us all.

Can anyone be so kind as to tell me where the EGR valve is located in a '94 Villager so I can check this hose out. Thanks.

EGR is located behind throttle body under passenger wiper arm piviot.