2000 Sephia Seems Sluggish At Times

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 2000 Sephia LS with 100,000 miles on it. The car seems to be in good shape except at times it seems to act like it wants to stall. It does is sometimes when I am sitting at a light or stop sign and try to excellarate it jumps a little. I have also noticed it when I am on the highway and going at say 70mph for a while then slow down to say 45 or 50mph and try to regain speed.

Has anyone else experienced this? and if so can you point me to what I should look at?

Thanks,
GuyInTn

Change the fuel filter and air filter. That would be a good place to start. then check the points on the distributer and scrape any corrosion off of them. Then check things like the spark plugs, etc.

Change the fuel filter and air filter. That would be a good place to start. then check the points on the distributer and scrape any corrosion off of them. Then check things like the spark plugs, etc.

yeah...great idea. i guess you have no idea what you are talking about since you just told someone to inspect their distributor on a distributorless ignition system car.

maintenance...give it a tune up, new air filter, plugs, and a fuel filter. those things actually will help.

my old car was a sephia and in the 3yrs I had it it broke down on me 4 times.

Each time would start like that, like at a light it'd sorta stall, and several times it did die on me. And everytime I'd take it in they'd say it was bad gas. I think that was BS because I was putting mid grade gas in it and stuff. I don' tknow what the problem was but eventually everything started falling apart on my car left and right. So I traded in it for my car I've wanted for 4yrs, an eclipse and now I'm a very very happy car owner.

bad gas doesn't have to refer to 87 grade. we have seen cases of bad gas recently at work due to heavy rains and gas stations not maintaining their underground tanks.

water doesn't burn very well ya know-actually water won't burn at all. if the underground tank gets contaminated all of the gas inside it is contaminated...and you are pumping it into your car. do you see the chain reaction?

it may be bs but that is where you, as the consumer who has a right to know, should ask for proof. make them draw fuel from your tank while you watch and show you why it is bad. some of them are pretty obvious (i have a car at work right now we have to cleant he tank out of and clear all the lines for this exact reason).

think for yourself, protect yourself against poor service...don't blame others for what you should have stepped up to and asked for proof..

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 2000 Sephia LS with 100,000 miles on it. The car seems to be in good shape except at times it seems to act like it wants to stall. It does is sometimes when I am sitting at a light or stop sign and try to excellarate it jumps a little. I have also noticed it when I am on the highway and going at say 70mph for a while then slow down to say 45 or 50mph and try to regain speed.

Has anyone else experienced this? and if so can you point me to what I should look at?

Thanks,
GuyInTn
Try your plug wires.. factory ones are expensive, especially for 2 - 6" wires. I used 2 accel 7mm yellow jackets i took off my old Ford and the car has never run better. Make sure to use the straight boots and they fit nicely.

expensive? i don't think 9 dollars a piece for some plug wires is expensive. go to a performance part site and see what people pay for those. 140 for magnecore wires for a sentra se-r. 18 bux is cheap.

expensive? i don't think 9 dollars a piece for some plug wires is expensive. go to a performance part site and see what people pay for those. 140 for magnecore wires for a sentra se-r. 18 bux is cheap.
I priced them at 53.00 at a local dealer/parts store. hard to tell what you get for 18. And I was really using them as a test to see if it was wires. Factory wires are best to use permanently ofcourse.Besides, why does someone spend a fortune for wires to soup up a kia or sentra!?

i work as a technician for a kia dealer. my living is made off of fixing kias. the 18 dollars is for the ignition/spark plug lead that goes from the coil on cyl2 over to cyl3 and the wire/lead from cyl4 over to cyl1. these are the exact prices that kia lists at all dealers nationwide...full retail at that.

and as for souping up a sentra...91-94 sentra se-r. weighs in at just over 1ton, has amazing handling and balance with 147hp stock out of the box. this was over a decade ago. i have owned numerous se-r's and one infiniti g20 that had an sr20det in it. when it was n/a i had no problem handing mustangs walking papers at the track-both straightline and handling. the turbo g20 was just rediculous in it's ability as a street car.

i now own a 91 honda civic. the last dyno that was done yielded 193whp out of a 1.6 on pump gas. this car is my daily driver.

i work as a technician for a kia dealer. my living is made off of fixing kias. the 18 dollars is for the ignition/spark plug lead that goes from the coil on cyl2 over to cyl3 and the wire/lead from cyl4 over to cyl1. these are the exact prices that kia lists at all dealers nationwide...full retail at that.

and as for souping up a sentra...91-94 sentra se-r. weighs in at just over 1ton, has amazing handling and balance with 147hp stock out of the box. this was over a decade ago. i have owned numerous se-r's and one infiniti g20 that had an sr20det in it. when it was n/a i had no problem handing mustangs walking papers at the track-both straightline and handling. the turbo g20 was just rediculous in it's ability as a street car.

i now own a 91 honda civic. the last dyno that was done yielded 193whp out of a 1.6 on pump gas. this car is my daily driver.
sorry to hear your living is made off fixing this crap. I guess you r calling me a liar saying I got a price of 50$ for the wires, maybe all dealers dont have the same prices, try calling around and research that one .. duh..didnt know a mechanic was such a retail expert..... talk about personal attacks. if you want horsepower try starting with something that has some to start with... i have a 67 F-250 that has a 460 and pushes 500 hp .I run over cars like yours..this room has not been much help and will not come back here, even to see your lame reply.

lame reply:

huh? you must be an e-thug or something. all i did was state what the price was supposed to be nationally and why someone would spend money on a 4cyl compact. i guess in yoour specail little place that is a personal attack. i think maybe it's time for you to realize the whole world aint made up of big block and cigarettes-there is other shit out there and people like it. i guess you need to feel real big about yourself in putting down other people's professions because you drive a full size truck that was engineered 40 years ago. all in alli guess typing this is futile since you are never coming back to read this but on the off chance you do i have made this response for you. i can't fix the fact that when you went to a dealer for a pair of plug wires they tried to hosse you. i can't fix the fact that you aren't capable of understanding how variable valve timing and fuel injection works. so i guess what i have to offer is a piece of sage advice: choke and die.

I will get to the point before Kyle Flames me.

Does it do it when you car warms up, or at all operating temps?

I would check the vacume lines and emision.

^^not gonna flame on you. that guy just flat out insulted me.

an easy way to check for vacuum leaks is to get a can of carb cleaner and spray around the intake side of the engine. when the engine starts to rev alittle higher...you found a leak.

hope that helps a bit.

if you have a vac leak you will ikely have a fuel trim issue though which would trip a check engine light for a p171 or other lean code.