Power window regulator problems
NC-Lesabre
08-28-2004, 07:46 PM
Wow, this week has been fun with the Lesabre.
I already knew that there was a problem with the left rear window. It had a grinding sound that reminded me of my '95 Caprice when a little plastic thing on the window track broke. Anyway it was easy to ignore the problem. We just kept the window up. On Monday wife.com called from work to report that the driver's window wouldn't come up. I asked her to try to coax it up a little at a time which is what you can usually do if the window motor is shot. The window wouldn't go up so luckily it didn't rain and when she got it home I was able to lift up on the window while powering it up at the same time.
I started with the rear as I thought that it would be easier to get the door panel off with only the power window switch to deal with. The door panel proved to be a challenge as it seems that every year GM changes the door panel mounts. After pulling out the little reflector and removing the only screw used on the panel and popping the panel out from the little snap clips around the edge of the panel I noticed that it was still being held from the center and the top of the window sill. At the top of the panel there is a hook channel that you can lift straight up however it was still being held in the center. At the center of the door panel where it is fastened to the door there are 2 clips that hold the panel. You can remove the panel by lifting straight up being careful not to bend the metal bracket on the panel. After removing the panel you will see how this is configured.
The thin cable which I believe is a part of the regulator looked all beat up and perhaps had gotten twisted about the recoil pulley. I have no idea how it happened. Luckily the local Buick dealer had the regulator assembly in stock which lists for ~$280. Ouch! I was given a discount but it still hurt. My window man did the install. I held the window up and he did the remove and replace in about 10 minutes.
The next day I tackled the front window. The old regulator had the same problem with the cable as the rear did. It was a repeat performance.
Has anyone else had these issues with their Lesabres? Should I be bracing myself for the right side regulators to go TU? Is there a more reasonable fix or any preventive maintenance that can prevent the problem.
Thanks for letting me vent.
Regards..............Jim
Chapel Hill, NC
I already knew that there was a problem with the left rear window. It had a grinding sound that reminded me of my '95 Caprice when a little plastic thing on the window track broke. Anyway it was easy to ignore the problem. We just kept the window up. On Monday wife.com called from work to report that the driver's window wouldn't come up. I asked her to try to coax it up a little at a time which is what you can usually do if the window motor is shot. The window wouldn't go up so luckily it didn't rain and when she got it home I was able to lift up on the window while powering it up at the same time.
I started with the rear as I thought that it would be easier to get the door panel off with only the power window switch to deal with. The door panel proved to be a challenge as it seems that every year GM changes the door panel mounts. After pulling out the little reflector and removing the only screw used on the panel and popping the panel out from the little snap clips around the edge of the panel I noticed that it was still being held from the center and the top of the window sill. At the top of the panel there is a hook channel that you can lift straight up however it was still being held in the center. At the center of the door panel where it is fastened to the door there are 2 clips that hold the panel. You can remove the panel by lifting straight up being careful not to bend the metal bracket on the panel. After removing the panel you will see how this is configured.
The thin cable which I believe is a part of the regulator looked all beat up and perhaps had gotten twisted about the recoil pulley. I have no idea how it happened. Luckily the local Buick dealer had the regulator assembly in stock which lists for ~$280. Ouch! I was given a discount but it still hurt. My window man did the install. I held the window up and he did the remove and replace in about 10 minutes.
The next day I tackled the front window. The old regulator had the same problem with the cable as the rear did. It was a repeat performance.
Has anyone else had these issues with their Lesabres? Should I be bracing myself for the right side regulators to go TU? Is there a more reasonable fix or any preventive maintenance that can prevent the problem.
Thanks for letting me vent.
Regards..............Jim
Chapel Hill, NC
lookn2it
08-28-2004, 09:41 PM
I had to replace the right-rear regulator on my 2001 LeSabre to the tune of $500 at the local Buick dealer on a long weekend trip to West Texas in June.
That window was rarely used. It was actually the first time I remember ever having seen the rear window rolled down. We had relatives riding in the back seat that we had just picked up from the airport. One of them rolled the window down to let out the hot air after we got back in the car after eating lunch and it wouldn't go back up.
Chuck
That window was rarely used. It was actually the first time I remember ever having seen the rear window rolled down. We had relatives riding in the back seat that we had just picked up from the airport. One of them rolled the window down to let out the hot air after we got back in the car after eating lunch and it wouldn't go back up.
Chuck
sallisonbrown
08-29-2004, 07:56 PM
My 2000 LeSabre lost all four indow controllers within 6 months. The dealer replaced the first ones (luckly), fronts, but I had to pay for the rear ones when they went about three weeks apart with no big amount of usage. I live in Phoenix and attributed the high summer heat as the cause but others in this forum have complained as well. Guess it must have been a bad design !!!
lookn2it
09-12-2004, 11:50 PM
I can hardly believe it, but the rear window regulator on the driver's side broke this weekend. This is only a couple of months after the rear regulator on the passenger's side broke.
One of my passengers rolled down the window while we where waiting on someone. I was surprised they did this as they had been present when the original regulator broke by rolling the other rear window down (I had the air conditioner running, so there was really no need to roll the window down). I still had the duct tape I used to hold the first window up in the trunk, so that is how the window is staying up now.
The car is only three years old and otherwise is great shape but is no longer in warranty. I really believe these regulators must me some sort of factory defect when they go bad that quickly on windows that are very rarely used.
Seems like there should be a recall on these when they break so easily and cost big bucks to repair.
-Chuck
One of my passengers rolled down the window while we where waiting on someone. I was surprised they did this as they had been present when the original regulator broke by rolling the other rear window down (I had the air conditioner running, so there was really no need to roll the window down). I still had the duct tape I used to hold the first window up in the trunk, so that is how the window is staying up now.
The car is only three years old and otherwise is great shape but is no longer in warranty. I really believe these regulators must me some sort of factory defect when they go bad that quickly on windows that are very rarely used.
Seems like there should be a recall on these when they break so easily and cost big bucks to repair.
-Chuck
sallisonbrown
09-13-2004, 02:11 AM
Can't say I didn't warn you!
There must have been some sort of "soft" recall because I didn't get a lot of resistence when I pushed the dealer to replace the front's even though my car had over 50,000 mi. I was not able to convince them to do the rear's when they went shortly after though.
Absolutely there must have been a defect somewhere!
There must have been some sort of "soft" recall because I didn't get a lot of resistence when I pushed the dealer to replace the front's even though my car had over 50,000 mi. I was not able to convince them to do the rear's when they went shortly after though.
Absolutely there must have been a defect somewhere!
NC-Lesabre
09-13-2004, 07:23 AM
Thanks for the info.
Wish I had heard about the "soft" recall a few weeks ago. I will push for it if (when) another one goes, since my 2000 only has 35k on it.
The fact that a local dealer had the replacements in stock should have suggested that it's a hot item.
In each case that my regulators failed I was able to push the window with my hand while powering up the window switch.
Chuck, let us know you do with the dealer. If you purchased the car from the same dealer you might have better leverage. The part (regulator and motor) costs the dealer in the $150 range and the labor for someone who knows how to remove the door panel should only take an hour but the flat rate is probably higher.
Good luck,
Jim
Wish I had heard about the "soft" recall a few weeks ago. I will push for it if (when) another one goes, since my 2000 only has 35k on it.
The fact that a local dealer had the replacements in stock should have suggested that it's a hot item.
In each case that my regulators failed I was able to push the window with my hand while powering up the window switch.
Chuck, let us know you do with the dealer. If you purchased the car from the same dealer you might have better leverage. The part (regulator and motor) costs the dealer in the $150 range and the labor for someone who knows how to remove the door panel should only take an hour but the flat rate is probably higher.
Good luck,
Jim
lookn2it
09-19-2004, 10:27 AM
Hi, guys,
I tried 3 times to call the dealer last Thursday. No one in the service department ever answered the phone or called me back even though I left my number to call. Can't imagine that from a major dealer in this area. I bought the car used on eBay about a year ago, so had no clout with my local dealer anyway.
I was going to ask them if there had been any recalls for the regulators since I just replaced another one 3 months before. I then figured I wouldn't get anywhere with them if they don't even answer their phone and so, called a local repair shop I use for my other vehicles. They had replaced regulators on my other 2 vehicles. They estimated about $100 less than what the previous dealer had charged. I took it in on Friday morning and ended up saving about $80 by having them do it.
I was originally going to just drive it around for a while with duct tape holding up the window. However, in the Texas heat and humidity, the tape just wouldn't hold. I would walk out to my car and the window would be all the way down...not good, especially if a stray thunderstorm shows up.
Guess I'll be waiting for the front windows to go out next.
Chuck
I tried 3 times to call the dealer last Thursday. No one in the service department ever answered the phone or called me back even though I left my number to call. Can't imagine that from a major dealer in this area. I bought the car used on eBay about a year ago, so had no clout with my local dealer anyway.
I was going to ask them if there had been any recalls for the regulators since I just replaced another one 3 months before. I then figured I wouldn't get anywhere with them if they don't even answer their phone and so, called a local repair shop I use for my other vehicles. They had replaced regulators on my other 2 vehicles. They estimated about $100 less than what the previous dealer had charged. I took it in on Friday morning and ended up saving about $80 by having them do it.
I was originally going to just drive it around for a while with duct tape holding up the window. However, in the Texas heat and humidity, the tape just wouldn't hold. I would walk out to my car and the window would be all the way down...not good, especially if a stray thunderstorm shows up.
Guess I'll be waiting for the front windows to go out next.
Chuck
Flatrater
09-19-2004, 05:31 PM
Window regulators or motors are not a safety item so there will never be a recall on them. The best you could hope for is a warranty extension by GM but I can tell YOU THAT WILL NEVER HAPPEN.
No this soft recall issue that was spoken of doesn't exist. What happened every dealership has an empowerment. This empowerment is something the dealer uses to retain customers and gain new customers. The dealer has the ability to extend your new car warranty up to 5 years or 50K miles. The rule to use this empowerment is simple. One you need to buy your car brand new from the dealer and two you need to be a good service customer of the dealership. This empowerment is a reward for your loyalty to GM and the dealership.
Now GM has another hidden warranty extension this one goes to 10 years and 100K miles but you need to get two groups on board for this to work. What you have to do is call GM custmoer assissstance have them agree to the warranty then the dealership service manager needs to also ok then it will be fixed under warranty.
Also any warranty repair after the base warranty is expired make include a cutomer paid charge. This charge can be up to 50% of the bill.
No this soft recall issue that was spoken of doesn't exist. What happened every dealership has an empowerment. This empowerment is something the dealer uses to retain customers and gain new customers. The dealer has the ability to extend your new car warranty up to 5 years or 50K miles. The rule to use this empowerment is simple. One you need to buy your car brand new from the dealer and two you need to be a good service customer of the dealership. This empowerment is a reward for your loyalty to GM and the dealership.
Now GM has another hidden warranty extension this one goes to 10 years and 100K miles but you need to get two groups on board for this to work. What you have to do is call GM custmoer assissstance have them agree to the warranty then the dealership service manager needs to also ok then it will be fixed under warranty.
Also any warranty repair after the base warranty is expired make include a cutomer paid charge. This charge can be up to 50% of the bill.
Jed Rule
09-20-2004, 08:12 PM
WHAT! GM has secret warantees. I"M SHOCKED.:shakehead
You beter hope none of their lawyers are reading this forum.
You beter hope none of their lawyers are reading this forum.
sallisonbrown
09-21-2004, 05:46 PM
Window regulators or motors are not a safety item so there will never be a recall on them. The best you could hope for is a warranty extension by GM but I can tell YOU THAT WILL NEVER HAPPEN.
No this soft recall issue that was spoken of doesn't exist. What happened every dealership has an empowerment. This empowerment is something the dealer uses to retain customers and gain new customers. The dealer has the ability to extend your new car warranty up to 5 years or 50K miles. The rule to use this empowerment is simple. One you need to buy your car brand new from the dealer and two you need to be a good service customer of the dealership. This empowerment is a reward for your loyalty to GM and the dealership.
Now GM has another hidden warranty extension this one goes to 10 years and 100K miles but you need to get two groups on board for this to work. What you have to do is call GM custmoer assissstance have them agree to the warranty then the dealership service manager needs to also ok then it will be fixed under warranty.
Also any warranty repair after the base warranty is expired make include a cutomer paid charge. This charge can be up to 50% of the bill.
Guess I got a good one! I bought my 2000 LeSabre USED, from a different dealer and took it into the dealer that fixed the front's for a first time ever visit. Of course the dealer was a joint Buick AND Cadillac Dealer so they may have been looking for a future customer upgrade.
For the record, the ones that I bought for the rear and installed them myself cost $182.00 each (List $294.78)
Keep up the good work!
Steve
No this soft recall issue that was spoken of doesn't exist. What happened every dealership has an empowerment. This empowerment is something the dealer uses to retain customers and gain new customers. The dealer has the ability to extend your new car warranty up to 5 years or 50K miles. The rule to use this empowerment is simple. One you need to buy your car brand new from the dealer and two you need to be a good service customer of the dealership. This empowerment is a reward for your loyalty to GM and the dealership.
Now GM has another hidden warranty extension this one goes to 10 years and 100K miles but you need to get two groups on board for this to work. What you have to do is call GM custmoer assissstance have them agree to the warranty then the dealership service manager needs to also ok then it will be fixed under warranty.
Also any warranty repair after the base warranty is expired make include a cutomer paid charge. This charge can be up to 50% of the bill.
Guess I got a good one! I bought my 2000 LeSabre USED, from a different dealer and took it into the dealer that fixed the front's for a first time ever visit. Of course the dealer was a joint Buick AND Cadillac Dealer so they may have been looking for a future customer upgrade.
For the record, the ones that I bought for the rear and installed them myself cost $182.00 each (List $294.78)
Keep up the good work!
Steve
bmullins
09-23-2004, 03:08 PM
Glad I found this site! I have a 2000 LeSabre and my rear regulators went out within 1 month of each other last year. When the dealer told me it would be between 700 and 800 dollars to repair, I thought I would croak! I ended up having them done at an autoglass shop for a little less. Within 2 weeks of having the repair, my front passenger regulator went out. Since the window is up, I haven't shelled out the $$ yet for it.
sallisonbrown
09-23-2004, 04:02 PM
Hi Mr. Mullins,
Welcome to the Forum. Get ready to replace the last one soon! I drove around with Duct Tape on the first rear one to go just waiting for the other one and didn't have to wait very long. As mentioned earlier, I didn't know if the Phoenix heat had anything to do with it or not, but others in the mid-west seem to be having trouble also. Maybe your S.C. temperature will be easier on them.
Good luck, there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid it.
Steve
Welcome to the Forum. Get ready to replace the last one soon! I drove around with Duct Tape on the first rear one to go just waiting for the other one and didn't have to wait very long. As mentioned earlier, I didn't know if the Phoenix heat had anything to do with it or not, but others in the mid-west seem to be having trouble also. Maybe your S.C. temperature will be easier on them.
Good luck, there doesn't seem to be any way to avoid it.
Steve
NullReference
11-13-2004, 09:43 AM
I feel pretty lucky then. I found the part on eBay for $99 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7932943596). The store was http://www.1aauto.com/.
NC-Lesabre
11-13-2004, 07:37 PM
Thanks for the tip.
Too bad they only sell them for the left rear at I great price.
At this point I am more worried about the right side windows since I've already replaced the left side.
Too bad they only sell them for the left rear at I great price.
At this point I am more worried about the right side windows since I've already replaced the left side.
NullReference
11-13-2004, 09:22 PM
Thanks for the tip.
Too bad they only sell them for the left rear at I great price.
At this point I am more worried about the right side windows since I've already replaced the left side.Someone from the store called me this morning and asked if I really wanted two for the same side. I ended up cancelling one of the two units that I ordered, but he told me it is a common part for them and he was suprised they can only get the one side right now. I'll let you know how well it works on the right rear, because that's where it's going on mine. I figure that I'll be able to fix my original unit by using the cable off this new one, we'll see.
Too bad they only sell them for the left rear at I great price.
At this point I am more worried about the right side windows since I've already replaced the left side.Someone from the store called me this morning and asked if I really wanted two for the same side. I ended up cancelling one of the two units that I ordered, but he told me it is a common part for them and he was suprised they can only get the one side right now. I'll let you know how well it works on the right rear, because that's where it's going on mine. I figure that I'll be able to fix my original unit by using the cable off this new one, we'll see.
mabrijo
11-21-2004, 08:37 AM
I have a 2002 Buick La Sabre with only 20,000 miles. In August 2004 my passenger side rear window went down and did not go back up. Brought it to dealer and was replaced without charge since it was under warranty. November 2004 my passenger side front window went down and did not go up. Brought it back to dealer and this time was charged over $500 to have the same part replaced since it was only three weeks past the warranty. Spoke to General Motors and was told there is no recall on these little plastic wheels used for the power windows.
Since reading this forum I have found many, many other people having the same problems. What do I have to do, NOT USE THE WINDOWS, for fear another window will go down and not go up. THIS IS UTTERLY REDICULOUS. I also have a 16 year old Cadillac and never had this problem with the windows.
They just lost a GOOD General Motors customer since all of my cars since 1954 have been General Motors. Now I have second thoughts.
Since reading this forum I have found many, many other people having the same problems. What do I have to do, NOT USE THE WINDOWS, for fear another window will go down and not go up. THIS IS UTTERLY REDICULOUS. I also have a 16 year old Cadillac and never had this problem with the windows.
They just lost a GOOD General Motors customer since all of my cars since 1954 have been General Motors. Now I have second thoughts.
NullReference
11-21-2004, 09:05 AM
I agree, there are four of these on our cars. Does this mean we should just budget in an extra $2000 in car repairs? This should not be a $500 repair.
I have to update my experience with http://www.1aauto.com/. They called me back to apologize and say that they don't have the part and don't know when they will carry it again.
He seemed like he was sorry until I asked him to let me know when they have it back in stock. He didn't want to be bothered with me, I was clearly just a sale to him and since the sale was gone, he didn't want to have to think about me any more. He told me I should just keep checking the website.
They also charged my credit card (there are serveral days between the charge and the credit). Since I was refering you to them, I thought I should update you with the fact that they didn't come through for me.
I have to update my experience with http://www.1aauto.com/. They called me back to apologize and say that they don't have the part and don't know when they will carry it again.
He seemed like he was sorry until I asked him to let me know when they have it back in stock. He didn't want to be bothered with me, I was clearly just a sale to him and since the sale was gone, he didn't want to have to think about me any more. He told me I should just keep checking the website.
They also charged my credit card (there are serveral days between the charge and the credit). Since I was refering you to them, I thought I should update you with the fact that they didn't come through for me.
swipter
11-21-2004, 10:44 AM
Due to the fact that I have had CONTINUAS power window issues, I will not buy another GM. The windows in my car work when they want. When it gets hot here, in Phoenix, AZ, only the driver one will work. WHen it is cool in the morning more of them will work. You can get in the car and start it and they will all work. Go into the store for a minute, come back out and start the car and only one will work. Been like this for three years but the warranty went a while ago. I have just lived with it. The car is paid off and I don't want another payment right now but when it is time you can bet your bottom dollar it will be a foreign car. It is things like this that have caused the American auto market to go bust. Attention to detail is the key. Buick doesn't have it.
NC-Lesabre
11-22-2004, 03:51 PM
Ouch $500 per window! Try someone other than the dealer next time. Companies that do windshield replacement sometimes have competent people who can do a power window regulator.
I was able to get the parts from a dealer at wholesale. I removed the door panel and had a fellow who does auto glass remove and replace the regulator.
I had trouble with the power window motors on a '95 Firebird but it is completely different from what we have in the Lesabres. On the Firebird and Cameros it is just that the window motor is weak for that big piece of glass and the regulator is of the old gear design, no cable.
Does anyone know of other owners with GM cars of the same platform as the Lesabre having trouble with the windows?
If the window is erratic about going down I believe that it may be another problem. Try bumping the switch a couple of times. Also, the switch could be failing.
Granted this problem is a pain in the ass but it won't keep me from buying another GM product.
Jim in NC
'96 Impala
'98 Z71
'96 Corvette (LT4)
'00 Lesabre
I was able to get the parts from a dealer at wholesale. I removed the door panel and had a fellow who does auto glass remove and replace the regulator.
I had trouble with the power window motors on a '95 Firebird but it is completely different from what we have in the Lesabres. On the Firebird and Cameros it is just that the window motor is weak for that big piece of glass and the regulator is of the old gear design, no cable.
Does anyone know of other owners with GM cars of the same platform as the Lesabre having trouble with the windows?
If the window is erratic about going down I believe that it may be another problem. Try bumping the switch a couple of times. Also, the switch could be failing.
Granted this problem is a pain in the ass but it won't keep me from buying another GM product.
Jim in NC
'96 Impala
'98 Z71
'96 Corvette (LT4)
'00 Lesabre
UtahArrow
09-16-2005, 11:10 AM
I've owned my 2000 Lesabre for 3 months. The left rear regulator came apart a couple weeks ago. I have the regulator removed, and the window propped up, so I can drive the car.
Examining the regulator has been an eye-opener. The plastic parts that contain the tension spring appear to have been GLUED TOGETHER from the factory.
While having this door apart, the front left regulator is going out. Unbelievable.
Since the plastic assembly is held together with glue, and subject to heat and cold, I expect about a 100% failure rate during the life of the car.
I'm kinda handy with tools, so I'm going to try to rebuild the first one myself, and will attempt to make it better than original. May be a futile effort.
Examining the regulator has been an eye-opener. The plastic parts that contain the tension spring appear to have been GLUED TOGETHER from the factory.
While having this door apart, the front left regulator is going out. Unbelievable.
Since the plastic assembly is held together with glue, and subject to heat and cold, I expect about a 100% failure rate during the life of the car.
I'm kinda handy with tools, so I'm going to try to rebuild the first one myself, and will attempt to make it better than original. May be a futile effort.
NC-Lesabre
09-18-2005, 06:33 PM
I just finished replacing the front passenger door's regulator and motor. That makes 4 of 4 now replaced over a 15 month period.
UtahArrow, if you have success with your fix, you should consider either sharing you method or going into the exchange business. I could send you 3 broken regulators to assist you with a beginning inventory.
Jim
Chapel Hill, NC
'96 Impala
'96 Corvette
'02 WRX
'96 Taco
'00 Lesabre
UtahArrow, if you have success with your fix, you should consider either sharing you method or going into the exchange business. I could send you 3 broken regulators to assist you with a beginning inventory.
Jim
Chapel Hill, NC
'96 Impala
'96 Corvette
'02 WRX
'96 Taco
'00 Lesabre
imidazol97
09-18-2005, 08:35 PM
I just finished replacing the front passenger door's regulator and motor. That makes 4 of 4 now replaced over a 15 month period.
UtahArrow, if you have success with your fix, you should consider either sharing you method or going into the exchange business. I could send you 3 broken regulators to assist you with a beginning inventory.
If you can take some digital pictures and post them to show what you did and how it would be a big help to a lot of us who may have this happening in our future.
UtahArrow, if you have success with your fix, you should consider either sharing you method or going into the exchange business. I could send you 3 broken regulators to assist you with a beginning inventory.
If you can take some digital pictures and post them to show what you did and how it would be a big help to a lot of us who may have this happening in our future.
UtahArrow
09-23-2005, 10:17 AM
I rebuilt the rear driver side cable assembly with common hardware from Lowe's, a little jury-rigging, and some luck. Parts were about 6 bucks.
I used about 10 feet of 1/16 galvanized cable, some cable stops, a couple drill bits, some ferrules that looked close to the factory parts.
The 4 plastic parts in the regulator that are glued together to make 2 pieces are the culprits that cause the problem. I tried Gorilla glue and Superglue, but these work about as well as the factory job. So I heated the pieces with a torch and melted them together at the glue seam. Then I sanded the plastic parts down on a grinding wheel. Probably better seam than the original. Buick should have shot these parts in the mold in 2 parts, instead of 4.
There's one plastic part that, when the glue deteriorates, falls down the cable and gets caught in the cable spool. Knocks the cable loose, and bad things happen. I took a steel L bracket, and cut and sawed and drilled on it until I could fit it in between the spool and the spring assembly, and ran the cable through it. If the plastic part comes loose again, it won't be able to drift down into the spool.
The front driver side had the same plastic problems. Glue deteriorated, and the parts tried to destroy the regulator cable. I caught this one in time, the cable was ok, just spooled bad. Melted the pieces together, sanded them, built an L bracket. The whole front job took about 3 hours to figure out and fix. The back one was more time consuming. The passenger side should go really quick when they go bad.
Joe
I used about 10 feet of 1/16 galvanized cable, some cable stops, a couple drill bits, some ferrules that looked close to the factory parts.
The 4 plastic parts in the regulator that are glued together to make 2 pieces are the culprits that cause the problem. I tried Gorilla glue and Superglue, but these work about as well as the factory job. So I heated the pieces with a torch and melted them together at the glue seam. Then I sanded the plastic parts down on a grinding wheel. Probably better seam than the original. Buick should have shot these parts in the mold in 2 parts, instead of 4.
There's one plastic part that, when the glue deteriorates, falls down the cable and gets caught in the cable spool. Knocks the cable loose, and bad things happen. I took a steel L bracket, and cut and sawed and drilled on it until I could fit it in between the spool and the spring assembly, and ran the cable through it. If the plastic part comes loose again, it won't be able to drift down into the spool.
The front driver side had the same plastic problems. Glue deteriorated, and the parts tried to destroy the regulator cable. I caught this one in time, the cable was ok, just spooled bad. Melted the pieces together, sanded them, built an L bracket. The whole front job took about 3 hours to figure out and fix. The back one was more time consuming. The passenger side should go really quick when they go bad.
Joe
kjn
10-06-2005, 05:03 PM
Joe, I am having the same problem with my 2001 drivers side rear window. Can you describe or have pictures of the way the cable should make its loop to the top, so the window does not fall down? My window motor seems to be okay, but the cable seemed to come off it's position on top, so now the window will not stay up. My problem is without taking out the motor/regulator I can't figure out how the cable connects on top or its route. Do you have a diagram or anything? See my post under lesabre rear window by kjn. I do a lot of fixing myself and was very interested in your post.
thanks, Ken.
I rebuilt the rear driver side cable assembly with common hardware from Lowe's, a little jury-rigging, and some luck. Parts were about 6 bucks.
I used about 10 feet of 1/16 galvanized cable, some cable stops, a couple drill bits, some ferrules that looked close to the factory parts.
The 4 plastic parts in the regulator that are glued together to make 2 pieces are the culprits that cause the problem. I tried Gorilla glue and Superglue, but these work about as well as the factory job. So I heated the pieces with a torch and melted them together at the glue seam. Then I sanded the plastic parts down on a grinding wheel. Probably better seam than the original. Buick should have shot these parts in the mold in 2 parts, instead of 4.
There's one plastic part that, when the glue deteriorates, falls down the cable and gets caught in the cable spool. Knocks the cable loose, and bad things happen. I took a steel L bracket, and cut and sawed and drilled on it until I could fit it in between the spool and the spring assembly, and ran the cable through it. If the plastic part comes loose again, it won't be able to drift down into the spool.
The front driver side had the same plastic problems. Glue deteriorated, and the parts tried to destroy the regulator cable. I caught this one in time, the cable was ok, just spooled bad. Melted the pieces together, sanded them, built an L bracket. The whole front job took about 3 hours to figure out and fix. The back one was more time consuming. The passenger side should go really quick when they go bad.
Joe
thanks, Ken.
I rebuilt the rear driver side cable assembly with common hardware from Lowe's, a little jury-rigging, and some luck. Parts were about 6 bucks.
I used about 10 feet of 1/16 galvanized cable, some cable stops, a couple drill bits, some ferrules that looked close to the factory parts.
The 4 plastic parts in the regulator that are glued together to make 2 pieces are the culprits that cause the problem. I tried Gorilla glue and Superglue, but these work about as well as the factory job. So I heated the pieces with a torch and melted them together at the glue seam. Then I sanded the plastic parts down on a grinding wheel. Probably better seam than the original. Buick should have shot these parts in the mold in 2 parts, instead of 4.
There's one plastic part that, when the glue deteriorates, falls down the cable and gets caught in the cable spool. Knocks the cable loose, and bad things happen. I took a steel L bracket, and cut and sawed and drilled on it until I could fit it in between the spool and the spring assembly, and ran the cable through it. If the plastic part comes loose again, it won't be able to drift down into the spool.
The front driver side had the same plastic problems. Glue deteriorated, and the parts tried to destroy the regulator cable. I caught this one in time, the cable was ok, just spooled bad. Melted the pieces together, sanded them, built an L bracket. The whole front job took about 3 hours to figure out and fix. The back one was more time consuming. The passenger side should go really quick when they go bad.
Joe
bocephus101
04-18-2006, 07:54 AM
More power windows regulator news... I have a 2001 LeSabre and 3 of the windows have gone out. First one was a rear window and dealer fixed that one for $500.00 next one was a front unit. I ordered a replacement off of ebay for $100.00 which was $20-40 cheaper than any parts place. Next one was the other rear which I removed and repaired.
To remove you need to be mechanically inclined and not afraid to take things apart. Remove the plastic piece from the door handle area it just pops out from the narrow end there is a screw here you need to remove. All the door panels are one piece and easy to remove with a large screw driver to pry them off the door frame. Disconnect the wiring harness to the control switches and set panel aside. Remove the door control unit from mounting and you may have to disconnect it from connectors also. Remove the black plastic piece covering the opening. Careful this has a sticky black glue like substance holding it on all around outer edges.
Now your ready for the fun part removing the actual regulator unit. Remove the motor connector then you need to loosen the bolts clamping the track parts to the window itself. There are holes at the upper end of track for this purpose if you can get window to this position good. Also there are rubber insert may be stuck to the window and need to be loosened. I then taped the glass window to the door in the fully closed position. If your got this far good the regulator is held in by 3 nuts on stud bolts remove these then work the regulator out the lower right opening this can take some doing also. I had a real hard time with the rear one as the track was all the way up and would not move down. It was behind the window glass and hard to get it loose and out.
On my rear one once out I found the only thing wrong was the cabel had torn through the cheap plastic track mechanism. There is a black cover on rear side of track mech. that covers the ends of cable one end has a spring on it other is just a clamp in a hole in the plastic and the black cover keeps the ends in the track mech. On mine the non spring end had pulled throught the plastic so I just removed the motor and drive parts and with the slack in the cable just placed the end in the same cubby hole as the spring end. Remount the motor and drive mech. then reinserted the black cover. This was tight and not easy but I did manage to get it back together.
I tried the unit and it worked fine but rather than try push the issue I just decided to put the window back together and leave it in up and disconnect the motor. This at least make it where the window will stay up and who uses the reat windows anyway.
To remove you need to be mechanically inclined and not afraid to take things apart. Remove the plastic piece from the door handle area it just pops out from the narrow end there is a screw here you need to remove. All the door panels are one piece and easy to remove with a large screw driver to pry them off the door frame. Disconnect the wiring harness to the control switches and set panel aside. Remove the door control unit from mounting and you may have to disconnect it from connectors also. Remove the black plastic piece covering the opening. Careful this has a sticky black glue like substance holding it on all around outer edges.
Now your ready for the fun part removing the actual regulator unit. Remove the motor connector then you need to loosen the bolts clamping the track parts to the window itself. There are holes at the upper end of track for this purpose if you can get window to this position good. Also there are rubber insert may be stuck to the window and need to be loosened. I then taped the glass window to the door in the fully closed position. If your got this far good the regulator is held in by 3 nuts on stud bolts remove these then work the regulator out the lower right opening this can take some doing also. I had a real hard time with the rear one as the track was all the way up and would not move down. It was behind the window glass and hard to get it loose and out.
On my rear one once out I found the only thing wrong was the cabel had torn through the cheap plastic track mechanism. There is a black cover on rear side of track mech. that covers the ends of cable one end has a spring on it other is just a clamp in a hole in the plastic and the black cover keeps the ends in the track mech. On mine the non spring end had pulled throught the plastic so I just removed the motor and drive parts and with the slack in the cable just placed the end in the same cubby hole as the spring end. Remount the motor and drive mech. then reinserted the black cover. This was tight and not easy but I did manage to get it back together.
I tried the unit and it worked fine but rather than try push the issue I just decided to put the window back together and leave it in up and disconnect the motor. This at least make it where the window will stay up and who uses the reat windows anyway.
marknsn
04-22-2006, 09:40 PM
To answer the question if any other GM cars are having the same problem... I have a 2000 Impala LS, and I'm on my third. I stumbled across this site while trying to find a way to fix that cheesy plastic spool and the mess of wires.
Good Luck to all, keep the faith and buy American!
Good Luck to all, keep the faith and buy American!
bocephus101
04-23-2006, 04:40 PM
Cars and trucks with power windows seem to be using a similar mechanism and are all giving trouble of some kind. My son-in-laws 94 Ford PU is having similar troubles and he said he found it is a set of plastic gears in mechanism. Replacement uses metal gears..why didn`t they do that to start with???..Cheap Cheap
Bocephus
Bocephus
joedownsouth
05-23-2006, 01:55 PM
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre and all four of my windows not working will try and fix it myself if I could take off the door panels any help would be greatly appreciated
bocephus101
06-10-2006, 07:29 PM
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre and all four of my windows not working will try and fix it myself if I could take off the door panels any help would be greatly appreciated
The door panels come off as one piece except for the part around the handle which pops out with a screw driver and I used a large long bladed flat screw driver to remove the panel. Just watch out for scratching the paint. Pry the panel off until you can get your fingers or hand behind it and then just pull it off working around it or it may just pop off. I started prying around the ouside edge where you can have some room. Hope that helps.
The door panels come off as one piece except for the part around the handle which pops out with a screw driver and I used a large long bladed flat screw driver to remove the panel. Just watch out for scratching the paint. Pry the panel off until you can get your fingers or hand behind it and then just pull it off working around it or it may just pop off. I started prying around the ouside edge where you can have some room. Hope that helps.
rethoo
09-06-2006, 04:10 PM
First I want to thank Bocephus101 for his guidance on how to repair/replace the LeSabre window regulator. Following his advice, I was able to replace my broken left rear window regulator on my 2001 LeSabre. In turn, I have posted photos and a general description of my work on this site: go to Member galleries; user name "rethoo"; look under "window regulator replacement".
I did not try to repair the regulator. I purchased a new one from www.directauto.com (http://www.directauto.com) for $94.95 plus shipping. I have a 2nd one on order - my front passenger side window regulator is also broken.
Again, thank you Bocephus101. I hope that my photos and descriptions are helpful to someone.
Best Regards,
rethoo
I did not try to repair the regulator. I purchased a new one from www.directauto.com (http://www.directauto.com) for $94.95 plus shipping. I have a 2nd one on order - my front passenger side window regulator is also broken.
Again, thank you Bocephus101. I hope that my photos and descriptions are helpful to someone.
Best Regards,
rethoo
bocephus101
09-20-2006, 08:02 PM
Thanks I`m just glad it helped someone. Now my 2000 GMC PU is giving same problems. I have ordered a new mechanism off ebay these are cheaper than the car units. New part is in now and installed but getting the door panel off is a pain
Good luck
Bochepus101
First I want to thank Bocephus101 for his guidance on how to repair/replace the LeSabre window regulator. Following his advice, I was able to replace my broken left rear window regulator on my 2001 LeSabre. In turn, I have posted photos and a general description of my work on this site: go to Member galleries; user name "rethoo"; look under "window regulator replacement".
I did not try to repair the regulator. I purchased a new one from www.directauto.com (http://www.directauto.com) for $94.95 plus shipping. I have a 2nd one on order - my front passenger side window regulator is also broken.
Again, thank you Bocephus101. I hope that my photos and descriptions are helpful to someone.
Best Regards,
rethoo
Good luck
Bochepus101
First I want to thank Bocephus101 for his guidance on how to repair/replace the LeSabre window regulator. Following his advice, I was able to replace my broken left rear window regulator on my 2001 LeSabre. In turn, I have posted photos and a general description of my work on this site: go to Member galleries; user name "rethoo"; look under "window regulator replacement".
I did not try to repair the regulator. I purchased a new one from www.directauto.com (http://www.directauto.com) for $94.95 plus shipping. I have a 2nd one on order - my front passenger side window regulator is also broken.
Again, thank you Bocephus101. I hope that my photos and descriptions are helpful to someone.
Best Regards,
rethoo
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