92 Camry Heres the problem. Doesn't matter what time of day or if it is cool or hot. Start car drive for about 15 to 20 min. and pull up to a red light and BAMMMM. The car tries to stall. Now on take off it is very sluggish and barely responsive have to floor the gas for anything to happen. Now after the car gets up to about 20 MPH it then starts respond normally. This has been going on for about 2 weeks now. Here is a list of what I have noticed.

#1.High Fuel Consumption
#2.On start RPMs 1500 drops to 800
#3.No flucuation in RPMs during driving
#4.Strong smell of gas from tail pipe
#5.NO Codes

What I have replaced and checked

#1.Spark Plugs (replaced)
#2.Spark Plug Wires (replaced)
#3.Cap and rotor (checked) GOOD
#4.Coil (checked) Good
#5.All Cylinders have right Compression

So if anyone has any ideas please feel free to let me know. And thanks in advance for information.

Did you check the coil when it was hot? Good idea.

Try cleaning your throttle body:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/30_V6/throttle_body/

Check throttle body by testing vacuum at ports E, R, and P (disconnect hoses one at a time - the two on top of the throttle body and one pointed directly opposite the throttle linkage without elbow).
No vacuum at idle.
Vacuum at 3000 rpm
(test when engine is hot since this is when you are having problems).

Inspect resistance of throttle position sensor.
Apply vacuum to port with elbow on top of throttle body (throttle opener) and disconnect sensor connector. Insert a feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever. Use an Ohmmeter to measure resistance between each terminal. Terminals are VC, VTA, IDL, and E2 - top to bottom.

Clearance
0 mm VTA-E2 0.28-6.4 kOhms
0.35 mm IDL-E2 0.5 kOhms or less
0.70 mm IDL-E2 No continuity
Throttle Valve Fully Open VTA-E2 2.0-11.6 kOhms
Always VC-E2 2.7-7.7 kOhms
If not as specified, adjust TPS.
Adjust TPS by loosening two set screws on side of TPS. Apply vacuum to throttle opener and insert feeler gauge (0.54 mm, 0.021 in) between throttle set screw and stop lever.
Connect ohmmeter to IDL and E2 connector. Gradually turn sensor clockwise until ohmmeter deflects and secure TPS with set screws.
Recheck continuity between IDL-E2
Clearance
0.35 mm Continuity
0.70 mm No continuity

Check throttle opener setting speed
Connect everything from above tests. Disconnect hose from opposite end of hose on throttle opener and plug hose.
Idle should be 900-1950 rpm. If not, replace throttle body (again, check hot).


Check your MAF meter
Remove the MAF meter connector and check resistance between terminals THA and E2 (2nd and 3rd terminal from left)
At 68F 2-3 kOhms
At 104F 0.9-1.3 kOhms
At 140F 0.4-0.7 kOhms
Replace MAF if not in these ranges (be sure and test higher temperatures since you have trouble when the engine is hot)
Connect MAF meter connector and use voltmeter to test output voltage of MAF on terminals VG and VG- (1st and 4th from left) on rear of connector. Voltage should fluctuate when air is blown through MAF meter. (Procedure doesn't say so, but I bet you have to have the ignition "ON" for this test).

Check Idle Air Controller Valve Function
Disconnect IAC Valve connector
Measure resistance between middle terminal (+B) and the two outer terminals separately (Top is RSC, bottom is RSO).
Engine cold - 17.0-24.5 Ohms
Engine hot - 21.5-28.5 Ohms
Replace IAC if not as specified.

Remove IAC and check function.
Connect battery voltage to +B (+) and RSC (-). Valve should be closed
Connect battery voltage to +B (+) and RSO (-). Valve should be open
Replace if not as specified.

Check coolant temperature sensor
Remove sensor - check resistance
68F (1.8-3.0 kOhms)
180F (0.15-0.4 kOhms)

Check HO2 sensor
Disconnect connection and check resistance
68F (11-16 Ohms)
Replace if not as specified.

Brian,

I have followed all of the above mentioned and I have narrowed it down to a faulty fuel injector. I have purchased 6 new injectors for the car but on the #3 cylinder center front of car. I am getting a constant feed off fuel. It is flooding the cylinder. I changed out injectors thinking it would solve the problem but it don't. I checked the power on the injector plug shows 12.5 to 14.5 volts like it should. Why is it that that is the only cylinder flooding. Raw fuel coming out of the exhuast pipe. Thanks for the above Info. Great Information.

Check to see that the injector connector voltage is 0 when the engine is not running. Might be a bad injector or a bad signal, keeping it open all the time. If the voltage is 0, try swapping injectors to see if a different cylinder gets flooded with the potentially bad injector. If it does, then you know it's the injector. Dry off the #3 cylinder spark plug before you do this.

Brian,

The harness registered 0 volts in the off position tried to swtch fuel injectors and the same cylinder flooded so it is not the fuel injector. Any other Ideas.