Need to change the valve cover gasket
chandr
08-22-2004, 12:17 AM
Dear ones,
I am residing in Canada.I bought the used 1998 Toyota Camry XLE. I need to change the valve cover gasket (Front and Rear). I am not having service manuals to do this job. Please provide me the information how to do this job or your valuable opinions.
Thank you very much.
With Regards
Chand
I am residing in Canada.I bought the used 1998 Toyota Camry XLE. I need to change the valve cover gasket (Front and Rear). I am not having service manuals to do this job. Please provide me the information how to do this job or your valuable opinions.
Thank you very much.
With Regards
Chand
mstrader
09-07-2005, 01:27 PM
I am replacing my valve cover gasket (and PCV Valve since broke when taking cover off). I have purchased the gasket and valve from auto parts store and was wondering if should use my blue gasket sealer on the entire gasket or simply apply at the 8 points specified in the manual.
I thought I would apply lightly to "grease up" the entire gasket before slipping it into place. Any concerns in doing this???
Thanks in advance.
I thought I would apply lightly to "grease up" the entire gasket before slipping it into place. Any concerns in doing this???
Thanks in advance.
Toysrme
09-07-2005, 10:32 PM
In a nut shell:
Take the pretty plastic shields off.
Take the intake hose/MAF off.
Remove the EGR pipe on the back of the Upper Intake Air Chamber(UIAC) , rear support.
Remove all electrical connectors, vacuum hoses, throttle & transmission cable.
Typically, the UIAC is held onto the intake manifold by 2 14mm nuts, and 2 8mm allen bolts. Undo those.
Carefully pull the UIAC off, making sure you didn't leave anything connected - Obviously we don't want to rip anything.
The valve covers are normally held down by 10, or 12 * 10mm bolts.
It's very hand to have a flexi-shaft extension. It takes two min to take the rear valve cover off with a flex shaft & a drill/driver, opposed to possibly 10-30 by hand with a wratchet.
That's about all I remember off-hand. It's straight foreward, just take of the top cladding, then remove everything that connects to the Upper Intake Air Chamber.
Take the pretty plastic shields off.
Take the intake hose/MAF off.
Remove the EGR pipe on the back of the Upper Intake Air Chamber(UIAC) , rear support.
Remove all electrical connectors, vacuum hoses, throttle & transmission cable.
Typically, the UIAC is held onto the intake manifold by 2 14mm nuts, and 2 8mm allen bolts. Undo those.
Carefully pull the UIAC off, making sure you didn't leave anything connected - Obviously we don't want to rip anything.
The valve covers are normally held down by 10, or 12 * 10mm bolts.
It's very hand to have a flexi-shaft extension. It takes two min to take the rear valve cover off with a flex shaft & a drill/driver, opposed to possibly 10-30 by hand with a wratchet.
That's about all I remember off-hand. It's straight foreward, just take of the top cladding, then remove everything that connects to the Upper Intake Air Chamber.
Toysrme
09-07-2005, 10:34 PM
mstrader
Yes, you can RTV the new gaskets in. (I always do as the OEM specifices too little pressure on the valve cover bolts to start with, but being aluminum threads, the steel bolts easily strip out with enough pressure to seal the entire gasket surface instead of the tiny raised strip)
Make sure the mating surfaces have been completely cleaned of oil.
Yes, you can RTV the new gaskets in. (I always do as the OEM specifices too little pressure on the valve cover bolts to start with, but being aluminum threads, the steel bolts easily strip out with enough pressure to seal the entire gasket surface instead of the tiny raised strip)
Make sure the mating surfaces have been completely cleaned of oil.
mstrader
09-08-2005, 07:09 AM
Thanks
I RTVd the bottom mating surface with a tiny thin bead and then touched up the 8 points that need more (edges and molded edges). It seemed to hold great, no oil leaks. I did see some slight drippage on passenger side on a belt by the timing belt. Don't know if that was old built up oil that liquified with the heat of the running engine or if there is another area I need to investigate. Any gaskets that may leak around timing belt? The timing belt and water pump had been replaced before I purchased car, maybe 2 years prior. I am going to degrease and keep a watchful eye to see if there is a leak, but any help on what to keep an eye on will be appreciated.
I RTVd the bottom mating surface with a tiny thin bead and then touched up the 8 points that need more (edges and molded edges). It seemed to hold great, no oil leaks. I did see some slight drippage on passenger side on a belt by the timing belt. Don't know if that was old built up oil that liquified with the heat of the running engine or if there is another area I need to investigate. Any gaskets that may leak around timing belt? The timing belt and water pump had been replaced before I purchased car, maybe 2 years prior. I am going to degrease and keep a watchful eye to see if there is a leak, but any help on what to keep an eye on will be appreciated.
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