b16a turbo

where can i get a turbo kit for the b16a 2st
and whats the bestturbo kit i can get for $4000

holy jesus.. $4000

spend half of that on getting a sleeved block with forged internals, and then spend the other 2 grand on a custom kit sc61 20psi :D

4K build a block up then come back and tell us what you got left 4k is a lot for just a bolt on kit.

i was looking at some turbos at http://www.turbo-kits.com and looks 4k will get you a kick ass kit

one more thing would it be better to buy a block and build it up or to buy a motor from jdm and build that up

Just build a block, w/ forged pistons around 9:1 -5, Rods. Get good fuel management and boost around 15psi and call it a day. Easily good for 12's

what this dude said > XixGenuinexiX

but what you guys are saying will cost more then 4k, he only asked for waht he can get for 4k.

i would recommend a greddy kit with an exhaust. the rest will probably go for labor to install everything.

but if your talking about 4k just for the kit then i recommend www.full-race.com

i would recommend a greddy kit with an exhaust. the rest will probably go for labor to install everything.

but if your talking about 4k just for the kit then i recommend www.full-race.com
thats a good call there on the install price being factored in. I know for 4K i could spend 2 of it making my own sweet kit and the other half on fuel manganment etc etc.

So if your crafty some motor work and a turbo kit isn't out of the question.

holy jesus.. $4000

spend half of that on getting a sleeved block with forged internals, and then spend the other 2 grand on a custom kit sc61 20psi :D

SC61: 700 bucks
Intercooler: 500 bucks
3" Downpipe: 400 bucks
Oil lines: 100 bucks
Walbro 255: 80 bucks
880CC Injectors: 340 bucks

well fuck me and call my daisy, we're over 2000 and he doesn't even have a manifold, wastegate, or fuel management yet. You can't build a GOOD turbo kit with new stuff for 2 grand.

dont know about everyone setup in here, but it's all relative, relative meaning, larger your performance, the more $ you need to get it there. obvously you cant spray nittrous, run 650cfms, and boost 15psi on stock internals. but it is possable to build a really decent perfromance minded setup for cheap using mitsu 14b's, t25's turbos. from what i hear your little b16's can support about 6-8psi on stock internals. if you replace your head gasket with copper high heat gaskets for about $199 you can lower your compression by .5 / .75. and thats good for another 2psi. lets look a little closer at what you can really do with it for cheap, without being getto.

tdo4 14b w/external wastegate, used, no shaft play $100. good for 12's 1/4 with propper tunning. oil, water, banjo fittings, gaskets and other crap will be $150

MBC from hallman $45
boost gauge $50
pillar $30
afc-2 vtec $320 ebay
used 1g bov $20-40, holds upto 22psi with out leaking.
intake pipe with cone filter 50-150

older supra sidemout intercooler ($60-200 used), you could use a gst or gsx side mount, but it hits heatsoak anywhere higher then 400cfm. their not a bad idea if your not going to build your bottem end to push more then 12-15psi. which is what the b14 turbo pushes all day long on stock boost. The supra sidemount will give you Everything you'll need.

mandrell 2 1/4 osd 45deg 90deg 180deg pipes from jcwittney $150. if you've taken highschool welding, you can figure out how to cut and weld your pipes to fit any location you have your inercooler. if not, you can pay somone to do it for you.

im not really sure how far you will need to go with your fuel mangment. but 440cc injectors will be more then fine, unless you'll do Nittrous. so, to be safe, if you upgrade the fuel pump to a 190 walbro, you wont need a 255, the flow charts on the 190 will be more then enough for the 440 injectors and cfm output on the turbo. that will cost you about $200 new, 50 used on ebay for the injectors, and $80 on ebay for the pump. it might not me a bad idea to get a fpr, its not really neaded, but their good to have for return fuel. that will run $50-150

consertivly so far thats $1525

if you buy a tubular exhaust with a tdo4 flang you will probably pay 300-500. but you can weld it right onto your existing manifold.

2 1/2 - 3in dowpipe & 02 housing depending on how much boost creep you can handle. $250, extra $30 if you want it ported.

exhaust system $250-1000. i think its all a waste of $. my personal prefrence is leaving the stock exhaust alone, and run an electric exhaust cutout from the inside for $140 + time and welding.

thats what? 2300. more or less depening on what you and up. that leaves you alot of room to play with your stock internals when you wnat to spend no more then 4000 on forced induction. there isnt really any reasion to buy a kit. unless you really want to spend all that $.

then he will be driving around with a half ass, cheap old turbo kit. one that is likely to break in the near future giving him a blown motor.

do it right the first time and get brand new stuff

half ass?? how is a tdo4 14b half ass?? blown motor? how do you blow a motor if your turbo goes out? besides, even if you spend $400-500 more on a new turbo with a compressor map that rates in a higher lb/min, and larger .AR how are you going to use it boosting on stock interals? even if you did set the boost on somthing like that to a min, your spool time wouldn't even be worth the $ and your perfromance would suck, their are litterly hundreds of tim sized turbos out their good for the stock internals of a hondas, the tdo4 14b is just an example on how to make cheep "reliable" horespower.

a used turbo can break in many different ways, but its not only the turbo you gotta worry about its the wastegate and bov, what if the waste gate malfuntions and he starts to boost more then its set at, waht fi your bov leaks or somethign where the air cant get out.

you can buy a turbo thats the same size as the 14b or even smaller for quicker spooling. especially on a b16 that is high cr so it will spool the turbo quickers.

heres alittle thing to look at when you turbo your car

fast.....cheap.....reliable

choose 2.


and civicwala you dont knwo waht your talking about, especially in yoru other post where you ask what you need to turbo your car

Let's see..
Rebuilt T3T4 on ebay $400
Manifold $300
Intercooler $300
Bov- $200
Downpipe - $250
Turbo Timer - up to you $100, just water and oil cool your turbo..
Electronic boost Controller - $150
Piping - $100-150
Injectors - $250
Wideband - $300
S-AFC or Chipped ECU - $100-200
Total - 2,500 dollars for a tuneable Turbo setup
Not bad if you ask me, and the wideban is optional

No reason to get a SC61 unless he's trying to push 400whp.
Also, i wouldn't advise getting a 14b get either a T3 .48 .60 or higher.. Since, the b16's rev high.
YOU CAN FIND A LOT OF THESE ITEMS CHEAPER YOU JUST HAVE TO HAVE PATIENTS, But just go w/ greddy, it will be more than substantial for your needs.

if your wastegate goes wrong your MBC wont let it increase boost pressure. thats why their called boost controllers. why spend 250 on a bov? for a spring and a flapper? the 1g is everything a greddy is.

are you sure .60 is wise on stock internals? dont you think the spool time & minimum boost pressure would make it a waste of $. Why wouldn't you advise a 14b, have you looked at their compressor maps compared to other turbos the same size, but twice the $.

T3 .48 .60 doesn't take that long to spool at all.. on d16y8 they are fully spooled aroudn 3.5k in 3rd gear. For a B16a2 i'd advise a T3. .60 .63
Also with a later spool you can still stay out of boost when you want to and have a fun car to drive. Honda's are meant to make all their power high in the revs, so why not drive the car like its meant to be? Besides whenever your racing that's where your most likely goign to be who shifts at 4k when racing?

shifting at redline dosent give you more power. some cars run their powerband at lower rpms. every turbocharger / indivigual turbo setup has its own tourque, power curve. typically a larger turbo requires lage amounts of boost to effectivly reach their effeciency range. the turbo your talking about would require more boost then is most likley safe for a natural asspired block. not to mention a turbo lag up into the higher 3500k range. Who the fuck wants to stay out of Boost?? the sooner you reach boost the sooner your power curve jumps from shitty, to awsome. besides. has this kid ever mentioned what his goals are with this?

yeah but you dont wanan be in boost for regular city driving, so thats why you dont want a turbo that spools before 3k, or whatever you want it to start spooling at.

yeah he didnt mention but for 4k he cant be going that fast

yeah but you dont wanan be in boost for regular city driving, so thats why you dont want a turbo that spools before 3k, or whatever you want it to start spooling at.

yeah he didnt mention but for 4k he cant be going that fast

Wow, have you ever driven a turbo car before, because it sure doesn't sound like it. You could have a turbo that makes full boost at 2000 and you can cruise all day at 3000 RPM's part throttle and it isn't going to make any boost because there is less load on the motor. Crack open the throttle and then boost comes online. No offense, but maybe you should go drive a turbo car before you start giving people advice with what to do with theirs. I could shift my old talon with an FP Big28 at 4000 putzing around in the city all day long with zero boost, but what do I know :rolleyes:

yeah but you dont know where he lives on what kind of hills or what not and you dont konw how he drives, there are alot of people who like to race around the city.

i have driven a turbo car, 5th gen sohc vtec with a greddy kit. drove it around and started making boost at 3k, granted it was only 1 or 2psi but it was still boosting something. but what do i know.

i think i've heard enough on this thread. this isnt going anywere anyway.

Are you fucking kidding me? A t3 .48 .60 is not to big. I suggest you look at the compressor maps, and figure it out. If it spools at 3500rpm in a d16y8 i can't possibly see how it is to big for a b16a2. Please, explain besides there's plenty of people running hybrid turbo's meaning T3T4 that are fully spooled at 4-4.4k. If anything the .48 .60 t3 is to small for his engine that's why i suggested the t3 .60 .63

Oh yea, noone said shifting at redline gives you more power.. Besides it depends on the turbo.

rest my case