Hi everyone, came across these forums, and everyone seems to be quite helpful, hopefully I can learn a fw things here, and maybe help too.
I recently purchased my first toyota pickup, it's a 1989 standard cab, with 4WD, PS, manual hubs, 5-spd manual, and the 22RE engine in it, it has approx. 140K miles on it. In the past year the following was done to it: new clutch, alternator, starter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, tie rods, new main bearings, seals, gaskets, and a remanufactured head. When I purchased it , I was told it needed a new TPS, I purchased it 500 miles from home and drove it back, noticing that it had very little power, and that I needed to shift into third to maintain speed on a grade of 20 degrees or more. I also noticed it ran rich, with a high idle. I did average almost 25 mpg on the trip with it. Once I got it home, I replaced the tps, the u-joint (which was cracked with no bearings intact) and cleared the ecm. Upon restarting it, I discovered the following codes: water-temp circuit and knock sensor. My water temp gauge was not working, so I replaced the temp sensor, to find it didnt change anything, was told there is a temp-switch, but I have no idea where it is. My throttle response seemed to improve, but then I noticed some things, engine seems to run with an acceptable idle until it warms up, then the idle goes high (1400-1600), also, once engine is warm, applying pressure to brakes causes a surge in the idle, but only when it is warm , and the truck is in 2WD. I read that these have rear abs in 2WD, but cannot find a controller or module off the master cylinder. I also discovered that the previous owner had the brake light disconnected in the dash :( . So, the light is always on, is there a seperate abs light that should come on? I have a haynes manual, but it is worthless here. Brakes pull to the left when moderate pressure is applied, when engine is warm, but thats the least of my worries at this point. Right now I'm hoping someone can help me with the following : a. If there is a secondary temp-switch, where would it be? b. What could be causing the increased idle when warm? c. Does the truck have abs? and if so, what could be causing the surge?
Right now it does run, albeit horribly. Had the heater on hot, with fan high, and nearly burned my toes, so it's running hot, but not overheating. Exhaust is very hot, and tip is charcoal black, so I know it's running rich (exhaust tip sizzles when spit upon). Reverse lights don't work, and should there be a 4WD indicator light? Any help would be very much appreciated, thanks everyone.

hey, i'm having this same trouble with my temp. guage but never figured ir out , i hav no manual though(can u scan the maunual and email it to kuto9@yahoo.com please.i also notice that when the weather or engine is cool it dosent respond well to acceleration( even cutting off at times) anyone wana help us novices out please

The Efi Temp Sensor Is The Green One Near
The Thermostat Housing'also Check The Idle
Speed Control Valve Is Not Sticking Also Make Sure The Air Intake Hose Is Not Cracked

I just need help figuring out my high idle and surging when brakes are applied, I have so far replaced the thermo switch and sensor (gauge still doesn't work, guess I have to open up the dash...), and have replaced the tps (had a code, tps was bad). Still drivability isn't great, no top end power ( do have a knock sensor code , gotta change that. Thinking timing might be off, but can't adjust because idle is so high... This truck is giving me fits. I checked all the vacuum lines (wih propane :) ) , no leaks. I also rerouted all the lines, because the moron I bought the truck from had them all wrong (could this permanently screw up the VSV valves or sensors?) still once I corrected that, it still idles high. Anybody know what I should be looking for? Thanks again, Jeff

try blocking off the BIG vaccum line from the manifold to the brake booster, sounds like you may have a bad Brake booster. Let us know how it goes.

Nate

Okay, did some things to the truck, replaced thermo-sensor, thermo-switch, coolant gauge still doesn't work, onna pull dash and cluster tomorrow to find out what is going on. Had a knock sensor code, turns out whoever had the truck before me, jammed in the connector incorrectly, so truck is running much better, knock sensor code is gone. As for the high idle, it still exists, and is really aggravating me, the surging begins as soon as the brake lights are activated, without pressure on the master cylinder/booster. So, I have a feeling, as soon as I resolve this fast idle, the surging will go away (heard its the ecm cutting fuel because idle is too high when brakes are applied). So, next is my quest to do the following (if NAPA ever gets my &^%$@*! parts in): Disassemble and thoroughly clean throttle body and IAC, and reposition tps. Hopefully this will do it. I have the dashpot fully backed out, so it's not even touching the throttle. Hopefully I can solve this mysterious riddle. Thanks again, Jeff

Arg, it's the thermostatic idle air control (cold-start) attached to the bottom of the throttle body. The thermostatic valve is frozen in the open position. Covered the port up with duct tape, and the truck runs awesome. So, anybody have any experience bypassing this, or know where I can get one cheap?

The thermostatic air valve (you mean cold start time switch or injector?) both are dealer only part and I bought the injector for a 3.0 v6 for $147, so I'm thinking thats in the general ballpark price range. Hope it helps.

Which port do u cover up to get it working fine, cuz mines idleing really high too??

[QUOTE=blueridgeboy_1]Which port do u cover up to get it working fine, cuz mines idleing really high too??[/QUOTE

High idle after the engine warms up? Did you change the timing belt, or done any head work recently? Check your timing, it could be off. But the Cold Start Timing switch is located on the rear of the block next to the therm. sensor. It's the switch closer to the passenger side if looking in the engine bay from the front bumper.Though I don't removing the switch and blocking it will help.

T
Go to yotatech.com and do a search there, it's 1 of the more inforamtive Toyota sites on the web.

[QUOTE=blueridgeboy_1]Which port do u cover up to get it working fine, cuz mines idleing really high too??[/QUOTE

High idle after the engine warms up? Did you change the timing belt, or done any head work recently? Check your timing, it could be off. But the Cold Start Timing switch is located on the rear of the block next to the therm. sensor. It's the switch closer to the passenger side if looking in the engine bay from the front bumper.Though I don't removing the switch and blocking it will help.

T
Go to http://www.yotatech.com and do a search there, it's 1 of the more inforamtive Toyota sites on the web.

...As for the high idle, it still exists, and is really aggravating me, the surging begins as soon as the brake lights are activated, without pressure on the master cylinder/booster. So, I have a feeling, as soon as I resolve this fast idle, the surging will go away (heard its the ecm cutting fuel because idle is too high when brakes are applied). ...


That's exactly what it is. Once you get rid of the high idle, the surging when you hit the brakes will go away.

Toyota had a recall on the steering rods and i took mine to the dealer and they replaced it. They told me that the Idle air control valve was bad. I have read a lot on my idling problem and many ppl said thats what it is. The truck idles fine in the morning but after is warms up it idles really high, its like the faster i go down the road and come to a stop it idles even higher? Checked the dashpot thought that was it first but wasent. Man im gonna burn my clutch up trying to keep the idle down a stop light cuz i gotta glasspack and its loud as hell and ebarassing idling that high! But its the Idle air control valve i know its frozen in the open postiton i guess wonder if cleaning and lubeing it would help?, that surfrat charcter said he coverd up a port and his idled just fine is the port inside the throttle body?