grabs when turning

only after the car has been driven for more than 10 miles, if i make a sharp (full) turn in either direction the front wheels seem to "grab" and the car chugs forward until i move the wheels back toward straight. then the problem goes away. any thoughts? thanks

I have the exact same problem to the tee!!!!!! Same exact car year and model!! Have you ever figured out how to fix it, or at least why it is doing it??????? If anyone knows please email me at [email protected] Thanks a million

I am guessing that both of you have the Quadra-Trac system on your Grand Cherokees. That means that 4WD is engaged all the time. On dry pavement and when turning, the wheels tend to "fight" each other giving you the sensation that they are grabbing or jerking. I have a Grand Cherokee and I almost always feel it when making a U-turn. It's probably normal but if it seems extreme to you you might want to make sure the transfer case and differential are in good repair.

Some Transfer Cases and diffs require use of Friction Modifier Check With your Dealer. That can Couse this problem to be worse...

Hmmm, Im getting almost the same thing but my tires get chewed up after about 4 months. The outside part of the thread wears out while the inside doesn't.

hmm...

In researching for a friend with a similar problem, it appears that there is a viscous coupler in the transfer case of the full time 4x4 models (his is a 1994). The symptoms are wheels fighting when you try to pull into a parking space, gear wind up while driving (hearing/feeling vibration build). It gets progressively worse. I've read that this part is around $500 - $800. Jeep quoted $2400 for a rebuilt transfer case (ouch!). Might be worth checking into the coupler.

You know, I've read a lot of posts and have gotten a lot of suggestions about the VC. I am to busy to take it to the dealership to figure out if thats really causing it but i know it's going to be expensive.

I don't know if our problem is exactly the same, but we have something similar on our 95 GC... It is significantly more noticable on the driver's side and feels like a flat tire. We've had alignment checked, tires checked, new boots installed, brakes are brand new. It happens only when we are making a sharp turn (like to make a U-turn or to turn into a parking spot) and only after the car has been driven for a while. Very hard to reproduce at auto shop unless the car has been driven around for quite a while. It is also noisy, as I get looks from people when this happens. Front passenger, however, does not feel it like I do. Hearing that it could be something running like $500-800 is not making me happy

I had a the same problem with my Laredo last year. It was grabbing really hard jerking when I tried to pull into parking spaces sharply.

I took it to the mechanic and he could not recreate it to the extent that it was and told me that a little grabbing is normal on the all wheel drive models because the front and back turn differently and cause the jerking feeling.

He suggested that I change the differential fluid and see if that helped. Since I had that done I have noticed a great improvement. It still grabs a little but seems more normal now. It is quiet now and doesn't make the grinding sound it had been before. This was great news for me as the other possibilities were way more expensive to fix.

first off check and make sure that the tire sizes are the same, or even air pressure. the awd systems are picky about that kinda stuff.

I have the same problem with the gripping tires during turns. Seems to me that it is the VC. I changed the transfer case fluid with synthetic. That didn't make a bit of difference. I checked out the cost for a VC joint for my 98 Limited 4.9 - a little over $400.

I'm going to do it myself, used to be a helicopter mechanic. At least if I screw up I don't have to look for a crash landing site :nono: .

If you decide to do it yourself this link has excellent pictures and a step by step approach to replacing the VC:
http://www.masoncomputing.com/np249/

Also, I got a lot of info from this post....
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=544516

Just scroll down a little until you get to the VC part.

Good Luck
Dave

only after the car has been driven for more than 10 miles, if i make a sharp (full) turn in either direction the front wheels seem to "grab" and the car chugs forward until i move the wheels back toward straight. then the problem goes away. any thoughts? thanks


You deffinately have a bad VC.
Sometimes switching to a sythetic fluid in the Transfer Case helps. Sythetic fluids help disipate heat batter the conventional fluids. But as you see from MAUI DAVE it doesn't always help.

OK I had the same problem with my 1994 JGC Laredo. When turning into parking spots and sharp turns at slow speeds my tires felt like they were going to tear off. I read all the posts on the VC joint in the transfer case and waas about to do the repair when I was told to check the CV Joints on my front end for torn boots. I found the right side boot torn and very dry. I replaced the whole right side axle and my problem went away. I can not pull into spots and turn sharp at slow speeds with no prblems at all. So before you have your $800 repair to your transfer case check your axles in the front for broken boots around your CV Joints. The repair only cost me $100.00 for the new axle and I did it myself for no maint cost. It was very easy to do. For what it is worth that was my two cents worth of info...........

FF/EMT Gary
New York

I just replaced the front left suspension arm bushings and I did check the left boot, but I didn't look at the right side. I will take a look tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up.

By the way where did you get the axle for $100 ?

Hey guys,

I have a 95 JGC Orvis which had the same issues years ago. 1st time around I took it to the stealer....I mean dealer and after it was in pieces they told me it was going to cost $2k+ to rebuild or give it back in pieces. Gee, not much choice huh? So I had them rebuild it. Stupid me, problem came back 2yrs later. The design of the VC on the QuadraTrac has been notorious for this problem. Round 2 had me hook up with George at TCU (TRANSFER CASES UNLIMITED LONG ISLAND NY ). It cost $1k (including shipping both ways - return old one) for a rebuilt TransferCase ready to install by any ole mechanic or yourself.

Check him out before doing anything if you might be going that road.

Good luck,
Carlos

My 98' Jeep does about the same thing, when turning, my wheels squeak, leaving rubber, as if all 4 wheels are turning at the same speed. im new to the quadratrac system i dont know much about it. mine doesnt seem to jerk or chug but i do leave a good amount of rubber behind when turning sharp
doing a u-turn i burnt rubber the whole turn and left a nice mark

Yup, that's it.

Basically what is happening is that your QuadraTrac senses your outside tires traveling further than the inside tires, so it thinks that it is actually slipping therefore it gives more power to the others to try and pull you out of a situation which your not really in. So, your outside tires are pushing and grinding into the pavement becasue your inside tires are getting all the power. Do you hear a 'hummin' yet? If not, you probably will soon. Also check your xfer case fluid, I bet it's empty or almost empty. It gets so hot the fluid essentially evaporates.

Give George a shout and describe your situation. He was tremendous to work with and diagnosed it on the spot (over the phone I mean).

Good luck

are these early signs of a bad viscous coupler in the transfer case?
my jeep hasnt crow hopped like some posts i read,
just some squeaking of tires when turning tight corners and parking
is this serious enough to get it fixed or will it get worse?
i dont want to fix things if they dont need fixing
need some opinions before i spend big $$

thanks

In my case, yes it was a sign that the VC was failing. If I remember correctly, there is some natural clicking that happens on tight radius turns even with a healthy VC but if it is as drastic as you described, it is likely the VC/transfercase.

Definitly don't go down that road until you confirm for the obvious $$$$ factors. If it is failing, there is nothing you're going to do to make it better or worse other than replacing it.

Some people have replaced just the VC but I went with the whole transfercase because I wasn't doing it myself and the differential in cost for a mechanic to do it was not worth the risk of other bad parts in there once it's cracked open.

This link is also very educational on the VC and swapping the xfercase out with a different version which many have chosen to do.
http://www.duff.ws/grand_central/tc_swap/transfercase.htm

My 93 JGC did the same grind/bind thing on tight turns. My local transmission shop replaced the VC for about $750. That did the trick! :grinyes:

Free fix!!!! 1 8mm wrench will loosen 4 bolts and drop the front driveshaft, taking your frozen viscous coupler out of the equation. Or you can fork out the $400 for a new one and research the installation instruction on the net. Last resort....pay someone $2000 to fix it. I opted for the first option.

the reason why it does that is simple. when u turn ur wheel to the max while in 4 wheel drive the front wheels pull to the right or left and the back wheels push it. its not too hard to understand i had looked forever to find out why it does that and i actually found out a while ago from a former nascar front end specialist so im believeing his word. but ive had many diffrent people tell me many diffrent things about it.
but im stickin with that theory.

Yo breeaad,

I started another thread specifically about removing the front driveshaft....
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4303622#post4303622 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4303622#post4303622)

Did you remove it off your jeep? Where there any computer complications?
Did you get better gas mileage?

Thanks - Dave

here is the problem most of you have, I had the EXACT same thing happening and I replaced both ball joints upper & lower and it stopped 90% of the grabbing and a very noticable difference in driving at all speeds

BTW ball joints are a pain in the balls

here is the problem most of you have, I had the EXACT same thing happening and I replaced both ball joints upper & lower and it stopped 90% of the grabbing and a very noticable difference in driving at all speeds

BTW ball joints are a pain in the balls

Sorry man, But i have to disagree with that. Mine doesnt grab or act tarded until after 10 or so miles sooner if it real hot outside. I dont see how ball joints have anything to do with what we are experiencing. Buy the way i am going to change all my fluids and greases and oils and see what happens in the drivetrain. I will let ya guys know the results.

mobby

Have 2000 GC with the same problem So i changed all four tie rod ends and did a wheel aliment . It seemed to help but it was still doeing it a little .Then i played with the transfer case shifter and it made the the problem go away for a few weeks . It seems to get stuck in all wheel drive after the back tires spin a bit . Not sure whats wrong but until i figer it out i just play with the transfer case shifter as in put it in low for half a block then back in normal.

Have 2000 GC with the same problem So i changed all four tie rod ends and did a wheel aliment . It seemed to help but it was still doeing it a little .Then i played with the transfer case shifter and it made the the problem go away for a few weeks . It seems to get stuck in all wheel drive after the back tires spin a bit . Not sure whats wrong but until i figer it out i just play with the transfer case shifter as in put it in low for half a block then back in normal.

My GCL is All wheel drive its quadratrack, so how can that affect it? If ya mees with the tranfer case on Quadratrack you make iy Neutral or LOW. Mine hes been working fine until it got above 82 degree's today. Now it startes acting up again.. It muust have something to do with the fluids or maybe heat just makes it act up..

who knows

The Viscous Coupler is a fluid style limited slip differential. Inside the Viscous Coupler there are 2 sets of plates, 1 set is splined to the front output shaft & the other set is splined to the rear output shaft. The area surrounding these plates is filled with a special silicone fluid.

When travelling in a straight line these plates sets both turn at the same speed. When cornering the plates will rotate at different speeds, the rear wheels will travel in a longer arc so they will rotate at a slightly higher speed than the front wheels - a properly working VC will let this happen.

What happens when you are in slippery conditions with a properly working VC is the silicone fluid between the plates will heat up and thicken due to the shear caused by the close tolerances between the plates and the rotational differences between the 2 sets of plates and this will essentially "lock" the center differential(VC). When traction is restored and both sets of plates are rotating at the same speed again the fluid cools down and the plates will again be able to rotate independantly and once again differentiate.
Over time the seals in the VC deteriorate and allow the ATF from the transfer case to seep in and contaminate the silicone fluid. When this happens the fluid properties change and when it is up to the same temperature as the rest of the t-case it "locks" the VC causing the binding and wheel hop problems. Once the fluid cools down the VC will act normally for a few miles till the fluid heats up. This makes it hard for mechanics to diagnose because on a short test drive it will not heat up enough to lock the VC.
Someone mentioned removing the front shaft - this will work but the you have to use the parking brake or it will roll away slowly on inclines a the VC cools down and starts to function normally again - with no front shaft to stop it the front output on the t-cases will rotate as the VC cools down.

My 93 VC was bad when I got it. I did a search on the internet and determined it would be cheaper to replace the 249 for a 242 so that is the route I went. No more VC and I still have the option of fulltime 4wd if needed.

Check out this link on JeepForum.com it will help with the VC problem eveyone is having.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=466494#post466494

The VC on my 93 Grand was bad when I got it. I opted to change the 249 for the 242 to get rid of the VC.

The VC on my 93 Grand was bad when I got it. I opted to change the 249 for the 242 to get rid of the VC.

I'm still debating on switching to the 242 or not. I'm going to spend at least $430 just for the VC alone. And I still have to pull it to replace it. While I'm at it I would buy the rebuild kit and replace the seals and gaskets (another $170). Plus any special tools and my time.

My decision to change to Selectrac is finding a 242 in good shape for a decent price. Any ideas?

Hmnnn.. I thought i had seen or that i understood that the VC could be changed with the transfer case still in the jeep. If this is so then i ould love to have the instructions on doing it.


Thanks

Hmnnn.. I thought i had seen or that i understood that the VC could be changed with the transfer case still in the jeep. If this is so then i ould love to have the instructions on doing it.


Thanks

You could change the VC with the Transfer Case in the jeep..

NOTE: Getting to that snap ring under the access plate is a lil difficult with the transfer case still attached.....

Here are the instructions...
http://www.masoncomputing.com/np249/

Hmnn, maybe i just will take it out.. Or maybe since winter is almost here i can wait till springtime and change it.. Since it only gives me trouble when its hot outside...

I'm still debating on switching to the 242 or not. I'm going to spend at least $430 just for the VC alone. And I still have to pull it to replace it. While I'm at it I would buy the rebuild kit and replace the seals and gaskets (another $170). Plus any special tools and my time.

My decision to change to Selectrac is finding a 242 in good shape for a decent price. Any ideas?

One problem area is the 242 was never used with the V8's, to use it with a V8 you have to change the input shaft in the t-case with the input from the 249. To change the input you have to dismantle most of the t-case. If you have the 4.0 you should be able swap it without changing the input.

2nd problem is there was a gear cut change on the input shafts sometime in 95 and the early inputs will not mesh with the later planetary gears and vice versa.

3rd problem is driveshafts, there was a change in rear shafts in 96 IIRC so make sure the 242 you source has the proper rear shaft. Front shaft may be the same or you may have to swap the yoke from the 249 onto the 242.

4th problem is shift linkage, the 242 shift bezels are hard to find. The linkage itself will work with the 242, but make sure to use the short shifter tab that comes with the 242, you will probably have to adjust it to engage all the ranges properly. To make the 242 work with your Vehicle Information Center you need to remove the VIC and look for the extra set of plugs tucked up behind it, one set is red and one set is black, unplug the one set and plug the other set together and the VIC display should work. Shifting can be vague at times and till you get used to it it is hard to tell what range you are in, it also helps to shift it while moving. Novak makes a replacement shifter that gets rid of the vagueness of the shifting but it does reverse the shift pattern.

Overall I really like mine, took me about a day to do, the only special tool I had to buy was a set of lock ring pliers, regular snap ring pliers will not work on most of the lock rings. Sure glad I bought a Factory Service Manual, it really helped with the swap. I would like to change to the Novak shifter but it isn't too bad as is. I run a lot of gravel and broken pavement and it sure is nice to have 4wd fulltime and I don't get the binding on pavement I had with the 249. It does require a little more driver input than the 249 but I like being able to run in 2wd if I want and being able to lock the case when I need to.

RSL,

Thanks for the heads up. It so much easier dealing with a problem when you know ahead of time what the potential they are rather than finding out during the transition. Looks like I'm going to do a lot of running around ahead of time to make sure the transfer to the 242 goes smooth. Yeah, the factory manuals are sweet. I wouldn't buy a vehicle without one.

Great detailed post. Thanks again - Dave

Hey guys,

I have to drive to pittsburgh next week.. Which is about 400 miles one way. Will this VC issue cause me trouble driving on interstate that much? I was thinking it would be ok, but i just wanted some other opinions

thanks

mobby

Mobby,

I've been dealing with the VC issue since winter. The only problem I have is tight turns. Highway driving has been fine. Just my input.