Page updated on 10-22-2017

Hi all, new forum member with some modeling qustions...


Miata Todd
07-28-2004, 06:42 AM
Hello everyone, I have recently begun building model cars again after several years away from the hobby. I'm nearing completion of my first model,(Revell '69 Camaro Z-28:sunglasse) and have a few quick questions so I don't mess it up!

I have sprayed the body as follows: primed with Testors MM #2937 Gray enamel primer (big mistake, as this stuff sucks and doesn't sand properly:rolleyes:) followed by color coats of Testors Enamel #1639 Sapphire Blue Metalflake. The final wet coats came out very nice thanks to the FAQ's and Tutorial sections here, very informative:thumbsup: After curing for about 2 weeks, tonight I applied the white rally stripe decals and want to clearcoat over them. Here are my questions:

1) What type and brand of clearcoat should I use over the body with decals? I know if this is done incorrectly it can melt or eat up the decals. I have Testors MM #2936 Enamel Clearcoat but would prefer to use something else as I don't think this is the best choice, as I have had bad luck with their clearcaots before (dull, lifeless, no shine, yellowing).

2) How long does it take for the decals to dry fully? I used Testors decal set to aid in the application, if that makes any difference.

3)After the decals are fully dry I plan on washing the body with soapy water to remove any decal set on the body along with any other debris and skin oils before applying the clearcoat. Will this washing soften up the decals again?

4) What types of paints can be used together, and in what orders, if applicable? (referring to enamels, acrylics, laquers, etc.) I have always only used enamels so I am unsure here.:dunno:

5) I recently purchased some Tamiya paints in spray cans and in bottles. I know the bottles I bought are acrylic, but the spray cans do not say anywhere on the label if they are enamel, acrylic, laquer or anything. How do you tell these types apart in the Tamiya line of products?

Thanks for any advice before I take the big plunge here, this is the last thing I'm worried about as the chassis and interiors are mostly done, just waiting for the body to be finished for final assembly. Lots of great info and some fine pics of some fabulous builds around this site, hopefully I can show off this one when it's done and not be too embarrassed by the results!:smile:

Edit: added pic http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/21316369_Z-28_Front_decals.jpg

JTRACING
07-28-2004, 08:44 AM
1)for clearcoat, th best is 2 part urethane clear, its uv resistant so it will never fade. you can get it at any automotive paint suplly store. you need an air brush to use it tho.
another option is using Krylon Crystal Clear, that stuff will go over any kind of paint with out any problems!

2)i let my decals sit for a few days to make sure they a fully dry

3)im not sure about washing the body , just be carefully not to rub the decals to hard they might break

4)as for paints, its always good to use enamel with enamel, laquer with laquer and so on., laquer is by far the best paint to use

5)tamiya spray paints are synthetic laquers
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/paints/index.html

Merkava
07-28-2004, 08:51 AM
Hmmm... Welcome to AF!

Looks like a really good start, so I'll try to answer some of your questions.
1. I would really try to make the MM enamel clear work for you. If you use lacquer, it could damage your paint and decals. You could also use Future floor polish as a final clearcoat. It is acrylic and mostly harmless to other paints.
2. Decals should dry within a few hours, but if you are concerned, wait overnight, and they will surely be dry.
3. For washing, try using a Q-tip dipped in mild soapy water to gently scrub away decals solvent and dirt. It most likely won't harm the decals.
4. NEVER paint lacquers over enamels. It will eat right through. Same goes for acrylics, however properly cured Future is a good protective barrier against lacquer.
5. The Tamiya bottles are acrylic, and the spray cans are synthetic lacquer. They are super for painting models. If you need proof, look up Primera Man's models. They are painted using Tamiya lacquers and all look fantastic.

Whew. Hope this helps you some.

BTW: You drive a Mazdaspeed MX-5?! Awesome! Wish I could say the same... :iceslolan I drive an '03 Shinsen Version.

Vric
07-28-2004, 08:58 AM
1) I tried the Testor Clear over decal few time and it worked. The 18xx series is fine, only down side it yellowing

2) 2 day should be enough. it don't take long

3) No, once the decal dried, there are there for a while (unless you didn't put them correctly) also, Microsol will help your decal to stick to the body. Just wait enough after that to let everything dry

4) Oil on water, no problem, water on oil, it will be a disaster. So acrylic paint can receive any paint over it, but lacquer and enamel can't receive acrylic

5) They are syntetic lacquer.

ZoomZoomMX-5
07-28-2004, 09:39 AM
4) Oil on water, no problem, water on oil, it will be a disaster. So acrylic paint can receive any paint over it, but lacquer and enamel can't receive acrylic


Vric, your response to #4 is absolutely incorrect if you are talking about dried paint. Enamels and bottled acrylics can go over lacquer. Lacquer cannot go over enamel or acrylic-it's too strong chemically and may damage the paint and/or the plastic underneath. But you most certainly can brush or airbrush Tamiya bottled acrylics over anyone's enamels or lacquers. I do it all the time...acrylic black trim on my lacquer painted models, for example. Airplane builders use layers of alternate types of paint all the time...a Metalizer finish (Testors, Alclad, or Gunze), topped w/gloss clear acrylic, then a dirty oil wash added over the acrylic, then the whole works dulled down w/an acrylic flat clear. No problems whatsoever...I've done this process, and it's documented in my airbrush book.

Only once ever did I have an acrylic crack over an enamel base...it was applied too quickly and sloppily with a brush. Otherwise, no problems at all.

Murray Kish
07-28-2004, 12:32 PM
Good advice above!

Welcome to AF!!

Murray

Vric
07-28-2004, 01:01 PM
strange. I tried few time Acrylic paint (Model master airbrush) over enamel and it was terrible. I had many hours of sanding becose of that

not sure about the Tamiya paint. Even if it's "acrylic" it's not water based like real acrylic paint. So maybe Tamiya isn't concerned with that rule

ZoomZoomMX-5
07-28-2004, 02:02 PM
strange. I tried few time Acrylic paint (Model master airbrush) over enamel and it was terrible. I had many hours of sanding becose of that

not sure about the Tamiya paint. Even if it's "acrylic" it's not water based like real acrylic paint. So maybe Tamiya isn't concerned with that rule

Model Master Acryl is a bit different than other acrylics, I have brushed/airbrushed trim onto Tamiya lacquer w/o incident. Acryl doesn't like to be thinned, even w/their home thinner. Good stuff, but strange to work with...I prefer using their flat black/SG black for brush painting trim.

Perhaps the enamel surface was too glossy. I never spray gloss acrylics, except when doing that airplane. I use acrylics for detail painting, some airbrushed, some brush painted. Most times it's flat paint, if not flat it's semi-gloss black or gloss red/amber for clear lenses. Testors Glosscote covers flat acrylics nicely, to make them have a vinyl-like sheen. Testors Dullcote over a gloss enamel/lacquer knocks down the shine accordingly. Sprayed over an acrylic, you can then brush paint acrylic details w/o the acrylic paint reacting with the paint below it. Careful detail painting (especially on interiors) is really enhanced by layering enamel w/acrylic for best results.

None of the acrylics are really water-based. While water might thin it, sometimes making paint that's almost dried-up in the bottle useable again, the carriers are not all water. Water might help clean it up. Every company's acrylics are different; testing reactions is always suggested if you're not sure of the potential problems/hazards or rewards.

Miata Todd
07-28-2004, 04:14 PM
Thanks for the answers guys, I have one more question really quickly. It looks like my options will be to use the Testors MM clear or the Krylon Crystal Clear that JTRacing mentioned, since I don't have an airbrush yet. How is the Krylon to work with compared to the Testors.? Does it have a nice high gloss shine after using the compound and final wax? Or would the Testors be better in that respect (I doubt it). I'm looking for that deep shine that looks like water:smokin:.

@ Merkava...I drove a red 2003 Miata LS until 2 days ago. They are offering crazy incentives on the Mazdaspeed Miata right now. I work for Federal Mogul so I get the employee price on Mazda as one of my benefits. Look at the breakdown of pricing:

Sticker: 26,720
S-Plan pricing: 24,627
Factory rebate: 1500 or 0.0-2.9% financing up to 5 years
Miata Owner loyalty rebate: 1500 (must own a Miata in the immediate family)
S-plan bonus cash: 750 (limited time offer)

Total price 20,877 plus tax:naughty:

I was almost $5000 negative equity for trade-in for my 2003 since I've only had it a year, and yet I managed to get the Mazdaspeed with the same 5-year loan I had on the 2003 LS and my payment only went up 80 cents a month. That's right, I said 80 cents.:lol: I think it's worth it:bananasmi That turbo sound is a trip! Very noticeable difference in acceleration for sure:evillol:

JTRACING
07-28-2004, 05:17 PM
i used the krylon clear alot, it goes on very nice, it never runs , it dries fast, about 15 mins, its dries pretty shiny, but a good polishing job always makes it better, and thats how you get the deep shine your after

i dont reccomend testors, i personally find they dont work good, and testors clear will yellow very badly in a few months

Miata Todd
07-28-2004, 05:55 PM
i used the krylon clear alot, it goes on very nice, it never runs , it dries fast, about 15 mins, its dries pretty shiny, but a good polishing job always makes it better, and thats how you get the deep shine your after

i dont reccomend testors, i personally find they dont work good, and testors clear will yellow very badly in a few months

Sounds good, thanks for the advice. I think I'll try the Krylon for this one since you have had good results with it.Can you get it at Wal-mart or someplace like that? Hopefully I'll have some pics in the completed projects forum in a couple of weeks:sunglasse

JTRACING
07-28-2004, 07:53 PM
i get mine at canadian tire

Add your comment to this topic!