My friend has always wanted to put a 350, or any engine for that matter, in the bed of an S-10. Why? For obvious horsepower and cool factor increase. Yet my friend keeps telling me how difficult it would be, all the complications. He's gone through all sorts of scenarios, using a midship engine, using a front wheel drive engine/transmission, etc. I just don't see why it would be all that difficult. Yeah there's going to be a lot of fabricating mounts and supports, cutting away the bed, and reinforcing the back of the cab, but it seems so "simple" after that.

He mentioned using a long bed (for the room), and mounting a "sub frame crossbeam" to help support the engine.

I am not a mechanic; I wouldn’t even call myself an amateur. I just want to help my friend out, encourage him if I can, for I think it would be neat as well.

I have seen very few examples of what I am talking about, but the enclosed link is pretty much what we’re looking for (except the tandem axles, and with an S-10).tandem, rear engine Datsun (http://nissanminis.com/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=949&sid=6bdf1c984ccdb671f5d3e50a62ecb9fd)

Any help on the mechanics would be helpful, I don’t want you guys to spend a Lot of time on this, I know you have better things to do, but help would be appreciated.

That would be so cool. I thought about it not that long ago.

Nobody? Come on, at least someone tell us we're nuts!
Or if you don't think so, help us out, please.

Yeah, I'm sure a lot have, but not many people seem to try to tackle it. My friend is being very stubborn. I just want to know if I am wrongfully encouraging him to think it is easy.

it would seem that anything can be done the did it with a full size truck. i'm thinking that getting a measurement of the engine, trans, trans/drive shaft yoke, and the rearend all hooked together, basically take the drive shaft out of the picture. to see if it will fit with the rearend in the factory position. make sure to allow clearance in front of the motor for pullies. try to come up with a way of cooling by keeping the radiator in the front with two electric cooling fans. then the battery cables you would want to reach the back ( to keep the battery in the front) and you will have to run all the wiring for fire wall mounted items and vac line to keep everything under the hook. this is what i could come up with hope it helps and good luck.
PS- thinking long bed s-10

Nuts-yes, different-yes, give you credit for trying-hell yeah. lot of work-yup. Would I do it myself-nope.

I definately would like to see it done. I checked out the picture and have to question the effectiveness of the air intake scoop. I'm thinking that using the stock wing off the back of an early 90's model blazer on the rear of the cab would help to force air onto the engine and help to lower operating temp, since it isn't getting the "head on" air that it usually gets through the grill. even though it is in the open rather than being covered up. just a thought.

Go for it. and keep us posted on progress. I'm sure everyone would like to see it.

If your going through all that trouble I would have 2 radiators made up, and install them in box side duct's (the way Porsche had their cooling ducts.)

The project shouldn't be too bad with an auto transmission, but I wouldn't want to fabricate the shift linkage for a 5 speed.(although that would be one HOT combo)

It might be tough changing the suspension, so it'll handle properly
If I was to build the truck I would look into the front end from either a Porsche boxxer, or a Pontiac Ferio... Or better yet the entire suspension, engine, transmission package from the Porsche.

i c no reason at all to put a engine in the back of a s10 when it is easy to put one under the hood.

you toughest challenge is going to be the fabrication of the bed and frame. it not for an amatuer. you will need a background in metal fabrication and a very good skill in welding. if you dont have either of these skills you are going to need a lot of money to pay someone with these skills.

You might want to consider using an engine plate on the front and rear of the engine welded directly to the frame. These are available through summit racing, jegs, etc. one other minor inconvienience to consider, your going to need a fuel cell and some serious rewiring. as far as air induction, I would fabricate a ram air that lays on the roof of the truck, forcing the air into a flex tube into the injector.
Good Luck!! Sounds like an awsome project!

Hello all!!! I am glad to see your comments. Fattmann being the good friend that he is, is trying hard to keep me optimistic about my project truck. We are working dilligently to create a way to make this happen. I am talking to a outlaw chasis in omaha about the frame fab aspect of it. I went online and looked up racing crossmembers for the engine and tranny. The crossmembers are cut to fit and will be easy to install. I still havent picked up the S10 to use on this as I am very picky about what I buy. I have the measurements from the engine and tranny that I am gonna use. Im going with a 350 eng. and turbo 350 tranny. I thought about the 700r4 but it is longer than the t350 and i am in tight spaces. For cooling i like the idea for moving the cooling into the bodysides and will look into fabrication for that too. As for air-induction I am going to luvere the box between the cab and create a air spoiler underneathe to redirect it. Hopefully that will help. I would like to grab a '69 camaro rearend but im starting off with stock and will see how that goes. LowS-dime I know how nice it is and how easy it is to make a v-8 s10 but i like a challenge. This is quite possibly the craziest idea i have had yet. Its gonna be close tho and will see very soon cuz im deciding on a pickup soon. After i measure it all out we will see what happens. This whole deal may go bad. So when you are all out driving around in your s-10 think of me, and pray that all goes well from here on out.

It would be (in all actuallity) very easy. Remove the bed/body so you are at a bare frame. Get the Rear cradle out of an 84-87 Fiero, complete with motor/tranny/suspension, brake, etc etc etc.. Its a very compact unit, with the entire drivetrain there. Line your Driveline up with the Fiero drivelines (widths are soo close... within an inch or so from what I last remember) after removing the S10 Axle. Weld in a "U" into the frame (like this _/-\_ ) with the Fiero Cradle mounting in the proper fiero fashion (so the cradle can be removed later if needed.) Add another rail for the Fiero struts to mount too, and drop spindles up front to counteract the now lower rear end. Plumb your Coolant lines, extend the Fiero Shift linkages to your existing shifter, attach the stock Brake lines to the Fiero Calipers, hook up throttle, bleed the system, away you go. If you stick with the Fiero Engines, you'll need to jump to an in-tank Fuel Pump or go with an aftermarket EFI pump. Or, (if going cheap) swap all your existing Carburated Crud to the Fiero Motor (or even cheaper, drill new starter holes and move your starter over). If you want to run any small block Chevy, get an Adapter kit (V8Archie.Com is my recommendation) and go that route.

This is a very simplified explination, but it would be a piece of cake. Just alot of measuring, a lil welding, a lil cutting, etc etc etc.. If you had all the tools, this could drive in under its own power fri night, and drive out under its own power (with the motor in the rear) Tue at the latest.

A good friend in the shop I work in (both professional mechanics) just got a Free 84 S-10, and we're considering putting a 2.8/350 in the bed and under the hood using Fiero Cradles at both ends, since I've been wrenching on Fiero's for more then 10 years, and have a couple cradles/motors/trannys just lying around.

Good Luck with this, I hope you get it done!! Nothing would be cooler then looking completely stock with a tonneau cover, and opening the cover later to a multitude of ohhh's and ahhh's!

-Karl

EDITED: Due to spelling.. It's 12:43 in the AM and I just got off work.. Too much Diesel exhaust and too few zzzz's. Apologies to my 6th Grade English teacher who said I had great spelling.

First off, just dump the bed and make new sides out of sheet metal or fiberglass, it'll look better, plus you obviously arn't going to use your bed for any hauling anymore. You could deffinatly go with the Fiero approach, and get a 350 kit for it, if you want it transverse. Everyone in the world makes c notches for these trucks, all you have to do is figure out if you wanna weld or bolt them in. Otherwise, you could just find a rear engine rear wheel drive car to donate it all to, like (I kno, i kno, its ford, but its not like you are going to need to match it up to anything else, your creating everything) a DeTomaso Pantera. They came with 351 clevlands and were rear-engine forward facing. Now, where you would find a doner (sp?) car for that, I dunno, and that would cost you a lot, but you might be able to find somewhere that makes trannies for them. Either that or find another car like that. Good luck, I hope you do this and give pics when you do.

P.S. If you wanna know what a DeTomaso Pantera is, go here (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/316764)

NOT IMPOSSABILE.. BILL GOLDEN HAD A DODGE (little one at that)PICKUP CALLED "THE LITTLE RED WAGON" WITH A HEMI IN THE BED.PRESS ON.

go for it; we are now finishing up our 500 inch caddy in the rear of our s10, useing an eldorado front clip, frame susp. and all , welded to the back of the s10, it is alot of work but fun and you get to use your measureing skills to keep them sharp.