Right now I have a 1986.5 Mkiii Supra that I would like to see hit the 300RWHP mark. So far I have nothing done besides a cold air intake from HKS. What else shall I get for this goal to be achieved.....
If you say turbo it I'll hit you!? Because this is not "THE BEST" way to get horsepower RELIABLY!!!

in all complete honesty, swapping a 7MGTE or adding the CT-26 is the best, cheapest and easiest way to attain that goal.

but if you're stubborn like me, and insist on going the n/a route here are some things to find out about and price:
ceramic coated header
2.25"-2.5" exhaust, mandrel bent
muffler of your choice, do lots of research
get a bigger or bore out your stock throttle body
bigger camshafts
port and polish the cylinder head
bore out the cylinders a wee bit, don't go crazy or you'll ruin the integrity of the block
get high compression pistons
upgrade ignition system as well as fuel
if you live in a smog testing free state, remove the EGR and catalytic converter

you'll have a VERY HARD TIME reaching 300rwhp from a 200 flywheel HP engine n/a....you may gain 50-80 flywheel HP on these mods depending on what exactly you get. This is being realistic. I'm not giving out any fantasies here

Then we can add up all the costs for those mods, and your probably triple the cost of a simple turbo swap with an exhaust and BC to reach 300hp. Seriously, a 7m-gte swap is "THE BEST way to get horsepower RELIABLY!!!"

your bottom end torque would be very nice with those mods, but its just as unreliable to raise compression a lot than it is to turbo,... weve replaced 3 starters on dads 351 stang bc of raised comp, ford racing starters too

I've always heard that turbo power is very unreliable and that n/a torque at the same power would be better and get you out of the hole easier. for example a 330 hp bmw m3 STOCK!!! vs. a new WRX Sti turbo. The m3 will ulways beat it... And I know because i have an m3 also and have done this many times. I just love the torque potential you can achieve without a turbo..
P.S. what kind a green stuff we talking hear (money)

How about if I rebuild the block for a turbo. What manifolds (exhaust and intake) will I need?
Anything else that I would need for this project?

fropm what i heard, u need to get rid of ur block and intake manifold...since both are different from 7mge to 7mgte...u can keep the head....but again...why not swap the whole thing?

50 -80 flywheel hp with the mods listed????? yeah right!!!!! :screwy:
50-80 to the groung with the mods listed :grinyes: cames at least 20 to the ground, full exhaust 10-15 to the ground, port and polish 15-30 with supporting mods, and upping compression 15-30 to the groung. fully built N/A should top out at 260-280 wheel hp. around stock turbo WHP!!! :screwy: not really worth it but fun as hell to drive!!! all about the N/A bitch!!!!!

I've always heard that turbo power is very unreliable and that n/a torque at the same power would be better and get you out of the hole easier. for example a 330 hp bmw m3 STOCK!!! vs. a new WRX Sti turbo. The m3 will ulways beat it... And I know because i have an m3 also and have done this many times. I just love the torque potential you can achieve without a turbo..
P.S. what kind a green stuff we talking hear (money)

Just throw money into the M3 and sell the MKIII Supra... :naughty:

super charge it you want reliability and low end power just supercharge it and if you only run about 8 lbs of boost you will b making about as much hp as a turbo supra at 13 lbs. the n/a supras have higher compression and at 8 lbs of boost you wont have to change ur fuel system. plus if ur lookin to drag you have ur boost as soon as u put your foot down the turbo guys have to wait till 3000 rpm then shift at like 6500 you are runnin ur boost the whole time

Where do you get this stuff?? Every one of your posts is off the wall with your twisted info. Putting an exact number of boost vs. HP is difficult at best and saying a SC will not need larger injectors at the SAME HP level as a turbocharged engine is rediculious, your going to have more problems down the road with a higher static compression and more tuning problems with detonation, hope you like high octane fuel. You will have to follow the SAME fuel upgrade path as turbo guys, actually sooner becuase n/a injectors won't support much HP before they max out. Lag is over rated, if you choose a turbocharger properly and match it to the engine correctly you will have virtually no lag, with the correct BOV boost between shifts will back come on very fast. Turbo HP vs SC HP and the Turbo will always come out on top given they flow the same amount, it's naturally wasted energy being used to make more power exponentially while turning an SC requires much more power than turning a mechanical fan as you stated. Besides all this, generally a turbo engine's power band is much higher since centrifugals make more power with more airflow, a positive displacment SC will make most all of its power at low RPMs and will drop off after that. Your still going to have to shift the same, only at a lower RPM and assuming there is the same area under the torque curve the cars will be even. Of coarse that much more HP at a lower RPM, especially on take-off, will make controlling wheelspin much more of a problem.

Theres bin this rumour poping around my shop, that boosting a stock 7mgte engine over 15 psi, will cause a problems down the road. I plan on switching the turbo over, to an aftermarket turbo.. Whats this ive been hearing about a turbo toyota makes ct-26 or something?

Oh another question, has anyone figured how to get the supra some dietary fibre in its chasis. Cause that curb weight is probally slowing down alot of peoples 1.4 mile time...

anyways, thanks for the help ! :banghead:

supra mk3 89 dont change the subject u gay go post up a new thread this is about something else so go away

Seriously, it's not like it's hard to start a new thread, but while I'm posting this I might as well answer it. CT-26 = STOCK 7mgte turbocharger, you can "upgrade" to it if you like but it won't do you any good. Yes, 15 psi on a bone stock 7m-gte with a bome stock ct-26 will most likely blow the HG pretty quickly and blow the turbo to boot. As for weight loss, forget it, the lowest anyone has gotten without major surgery is just under 3000lbs, I'd rather keep the 500lbs and keep the quite ride and interior. Like shishi said though, next time make a new thread so you don't clutter up someone elses.

super charge it you want reliability and low end power just supercharge it and if you only run about 8 lbs of boost you will b making about as much hp as a turbo supra at 13 lbs. the n/a supras have higher compression and at 8 lbs of boost you wont have to change ur fuel system. plus if ur lookin to drag you have ur boost as soon as u put your foot down the turbo guys have to wait till 3000 rpm then shift at like 6500 you are runnin ur boost the whole time


lol. first of all running a supercharger will certainly pull some g's off the line. But running 13 of boost, you won’t even see the lag. Unless you’re over 15psi. And seriously, I'd rather have the sound of a turbo any day of week, then some wailing piece of shit on my intake manifold. Oh and I'd seriously doubt you would have the same horsepower. Turbo's and superchargers work at 2 totally different parts of the power band. :thefinger

Pipemitten, you have an M3...so why is it you want to fix up your n/a mk3? You want another powerful/reliable car? I don't get it...

The turbo option is just as reliable or more so than high compression. To maintain reliability and functionality you would still need associated mods throughout the entire vehicle to reach your "HP to the wheels" goal reguardless of what type of HP adder you have.

"Lag is over rated, if you choose a turbocharger properly and match it to the engine correctly you will have virtually no lag, with the correct BOV boost between shifts will back come on very fast. Turbo HP vs SC HP and the Turbo will always come out on top given they flow the same amount, it's naturally wasted energy being used to make more power exponentially while turning an SC requires much more power than turning a mechanical fan as you stated." - projectsupramk3

well put - with right combo lag is not a factor. When I drag race I don't let off the gas when I shift therefore my BOV does not open, so I don't "lose boost". There is no doubt that turbos are a more effecient tool for street use.

Being prejudice against turbos is dumb, SC's are awesome but they have applications they fit best with[ex. C5 vette], and an mk3 is not one. When you have around .5 liter per cylinder in any vehicle its typically best to go turbo. If you have larger displacement per cylinder like .7 or more you would probably want to use a SC..but SC is in no way more reliable than a turbo. SC's have to steal power from the engine to provide their power increase, greatly increasing wear and tear on your engine internals. Turbo's are most likely the best reliability vs power option available. I don't see where people get that they are not reliable.

Swap in a 1JZGTE or a 7MGTE unless you want to spend around the same amount of money for less performance/reliability. Its just my opinion but the best reliability vs cost option available to you is a 1JZGTE swap, just so long as you have the ability to perform it. But perhaps if your one of the "dump the dollars" type that is ready to spend money and expect results, n/a 9:1 + nitrous[still needs alot of associated mods to be reliable] is the way to go.. unlike the true enthusiast that spends the time and effort it takes to create a truely unique automobile tailored to their driving demands.

Thats my view