2003 Tacoma 4cyl auto. I have 33000 miles on my tacoma. I'd like to at least pull the plugs and look at them. At first glance, removing the plugs looks more complex than I thought it would. Any tips or tricks I should know before I start? Thanks in advance for the help!

Mike

Unless you're having a problem, I'd leave them alone. I didn't change mine until 70,000 miles, and the truck was running fine when I changed them. I've just changed them again at 140,000 miles. Truck is running better than when I bought it. If you do take them out, be carefull not damage the wires, the ends will pull out of the plastic is you're not careful, and once you untighten them, use the spark plug wire to pull them to the top. Pretty easy job, I should have posted pic's. You probably have the coil pack on the top of two of your plugs, be careful with those.

Good Luck

When you replace them, be sure and put antisieze compound on the threads of the plugs. Use a length of water hose around the plug insulator to start the plugs. Hand thread them until they snug down. If one of them binds right away, back it out and try again. Don't cross-thread them which is easy to do. You can also use the water hose as a tool to remove them.

Unless you're having a problem, I'd leave them alone. I didn't change mine until 70,000 miles, and the truck was running fine when I changed them. I've just changed them again at 140,000 miles. Truck is running better than when I bought it. If you do take them out, be carefull not damage the wires, the ends will pull out of the plastic is you're not careful, and once you untighten them, use the spark plug wire to pull them to the top. Pretty easy job, I should have posted pic's. You probably have the coil pack on the top of two of your plugs, be careful with those.

Good Luck
Dennis,

Could you please post the pic's or you can send them directly to me. Thanks

Mike

there is a spark plug removal socket with a piece of rubber in it that will hold the plug while you pull it out. Dont mess with spark plugs, change them when your manual says to. Not all plugs are the same even though gapped the same, get what your manual calls for (brand & part #) or get them at the dealer-there about 2.50 a piece. Last i knew it was not good to use anti sieze compound on plugs - can cause O2 sensor contamination.

& make sure you hear and feel a click when putting the wires back on

The manual states to change them at 30,000 miles. I currently have 35,000 miles on the truck. The performance of the truck is good, and the gas mileage has not changed. When I looked at the plugs and wires, I realized this is a setup I have not seen before (first time Toyota buyer). I've been told to leave them until I notice a decrease in performance, and then change them. ???????? Thanks

Mike

the manual says to replace them @ 30,000 not inspect. Engineers that design the vehicles know alot more than most dipshit mechanics. Plugs deteriorate after time due to elements (heat and extremly high voltage). For 10 bucks I would do it.

Ya well there also trying to make a buck. Has anyone known a dealership that doesn't. My trucks handbook that's possibly written by an engineer says change the oil every 5k and two different toyota certified mech's have told me 4k and 3k. ( what I think, if it works why mess with it.)

there is a spark plug removal socket with a piece of rubber in it that will hold the plug while you pull it out. Dont mess with spark plugs, change them when your manual says to. Not all plugs are the same even though gapped the same, get what your manual calls for (brand & part #) or get them at the dealer-there about 2.50 a piece. Last i knew it was not good to use anti sieze compound on plugs - can cause O2 sensor contamination.

The spark plug removal socket is not sensitive enough to install the plugs. It is easy to cross-thread the plugs and trash the threads in the head.

Everyone who installs plugs in aluminum heads knows that it is very important to use anti-seize compound on the plug threads. It does not contaminate anything when used in this way.

thanks for the info brian

You're welcome.

That warning about always using antiseize compound goes for any steel bolt threaded into aluminum. Something to do with the different coefficients of expansion between aluminum and steel causes the two metals to fuse after a while. You can get away without using it when you are taking the bolt out very often, but anything that stays put for a while will eventually seize up and your bolt threads will be filled with white metal (aluminum) when you remove them.

You're welcome.

That warning about always using antiseize compound goes for any steel bolt threaded into aluminum. Something to do with the different coefficients of expansion between aluminum and steel causes the two metals to fuse after a while. You can get away without using it when you are taking the bolt out very often, but anything that stays put for a while will eventually seize up and your bolt threads will be filled with white metal (aluminum) when you remove them.

Carbon steel or mild steel corrodes Aluminum (Galvanic corrosion) the white aluminum is called aluminum oxide.

Is there a chemist in the audience? :)

Metallurgy it's a part of my job in the Navy and also on all of my rating exams, and We see a lot of the Galvanic corrosion that's also called bymetalic corrosion because Navy ship super structures are made of aluminum where the hull is made of carbon or mild steel.