I was considering a k24 swap into my 95 accord but was told i could take my stock single cam 2.2 and stroke it to a 2.5 and would get just as much horsepower as the k24 with the k20 head but i was told i couldnt turbo it because of the high compression. I was just wondering why couldn't i use a turbo in this situation ?

you can but if it has high comp than you need to buy bigger injectors and a good tuner to tune your shit right.you need to boost low like 6 or 8 psi.you can turbo anything you just need to know what your doin and have the money.

You can turbo a higher compresson engine just fine, but as crx said you need to have it tuned well and you can't run as much boost as you could if the compression were lower. It's not the most ideal situation to boost, but as long as it's not done half-ass then you'll be alright.
Do you happen to know what your final compression ratio will be after you get done modifing, that would help determine how much you could boost.
If you boost it very much you 'might' be out of the range of typical pump gas; depending on what the CR is. Maybe thats what the people you were talking to were talking about.

Buzz1167
Jon N

If you know the bore and stroke of your stock 2.2L and the combustion chamber volume, you can calculate the static compression ratio fairly accurately. If you know the compression ratio, bore, and stroke of your 2.2 and want to calculate the 2.5 stroker's ratio, all you need is the bore/stroke of that. If you get dished pistons you could stroke and turbo your 2.2.



H22A seems like a cool engine. I'm not a big fan of VTEC, though.

The problem with running a higher compression ratio and turbo-charging is detonation. Detonation can blow holes through the tops of pistons, crack them, bust piston rings, and even throw a rod. Personally I wouldn't run over a 9.0:1 compression ratio on the street with a turbo. If the car was for a race only setup then go ahead and run 10.0:1 or higher since you'll be running race fuel anyhow. With a proper fuel system and great tuning you can run higher compression but none of that will save you from a bad batch of fuel at the pump. Besides, the gains from running higher compression are negated by the fact that you might be trying to run on pump fuel and you have to run lower boost levels. Sure, the engine might be more responsive out of boost but really with a lower compression ratio you can run gobs more boost and run a lot more power than with the higher compression setup. What works for N/A will hurt a turbo application.

All I am saying is that it is better to be safe than sorry and you will get better results from lowering the compression ratio between 8.0:1 and 9.0:1.

Alright thanx for all the input. Sorry it took me so long to get on here and reply but ive been down in pigeon forge at a show over the weekend. I dont know much about the engine but I will try to find out what the final compression ratio is and post it. The reason i was asking was I had a friend say it might be a bad idea to run the stroke and turbo.

I have that single over head cam engine from the accord F22a. Rated at 145. Compression 8.5 to 1 great for turbo. I had mine bored 20over puts you at the same size as prelude pistons. Also have a turbo (running now about 8.8 to 1 compression) and every day is set for 8-9lbs but hit the switch and on that engine just mildly built im good at 15lbs. But every one is right just have to have it done right, but if you get above 11to1 comp you will have no money cause the tuning is a lot harder

Why don't you do what use muscle guys do. Get lower compression pistons, or you could get a thicker head gasket, stack gaskets, the list goes on my friend, just lower the comp ratio.

Why don't you do what use muscle guys do. Get lower compression pistons, or you could get a thicker head gasket, stack gaskets, the list goes on my friend, just lower the comp ratio.

A thicker gasket isnt the best way to do it and stacking the gaskets shouldnt be considered at all. Either will kill quench. Dished pistons or bigger chambers are preferable to preserve quench. Since no one makes Honda heads with bigger chambers, that leaves pistons. If you get a rebuild and need new pistons, you might as well get them how you need them.

what are you talking about High compression, it's an older F22 right? those have like an 8.4:1 compression, which is fine for boosting the shit out of.. some buddies I know have boosted their F22's and F23 accords to 6-10 PSI with stock internals... which makes more than decent horsepower, and torque... a buddy with a 6 gen accord with a F23 is boosting 6PSI, and makes 227 WHP! whch is pretty impressive, and he wants to boost it even more when he gets some more engine management electronics, and some tuner time..

do the k24 block with the k20 head from the jdm integra type R, i believe one of the k34 blocks is 9.6 compression which isnt bad. supercharge it and ull be runnin good numbers u dont need alot of boost to get big numbers from the 2.4 litre block.

I dont see how the majority of voters chose a B18 for an accord :screwy:

Id just go H22, not sure how hard the K is to drop into the accords, but Im guessing it isnt as simple as the H22.

I would not go to a B series for an accord ever. unless I was bore/stroking then to 2.2's. still, for that money you could just have a built H22 that drops right in.

h22 is super easy swap. i've still yet to see pursuasive reasoning behind the swap though... higher compression = less boost.... lower compression = more boost. h22 is 10:1 f22 is 8:1.

you're talking 2-3grand for the h22 (which is 200 hp) and at that point (b/c of the high comp ratio) you're talking like 6 lbs of boost.

with an f22 (145hp) with 2-3 grand of internals you could run anywhere from 15-30 lbs of boost.

i just can't justify 2-3 thousand dollars for the 55hp difference and less boost. at 14lbs you double your displacement and should be able to easily build a 300-350-400hp f22.

i vote other.

you wont be doubling your displacement, it will still be a 2.2, also one is DOHC and has VTEC on bopth intake and exhaust, the F22 is single cam, which isnt as tunable as far as the cams go, plus only has vtec on intake as far as I know, like on the civic EX. and you can get the H22 for about 2G's plus shipping, probably cheaper if you look around, and when finished with the swap you might be into it 2500.

I think it is a much better base to start from, and is anyone ever done with their car, so it will probably be built for the rest of its life bit by bit.

turbo and highcompression is no no but its workable belive me i know wink

but lowering ur compression is stupid cause it will cause slower turbo spool up time and also lowering the compression ratio will only make it safer but u will make less power the real reason why u can boost to much is cause honduhs cyclinder walls are horrible and cant handle boost

well then get the engine sleeved and drop in a blockgaurd and then your not working with hondas sleeves anymore.

a k20 is out of an RSK correct? Butwhere the hell does a K24 engine come from? i dont think i have ever heard of that.

5 months old.....

anyways, as far as I know, TSX, accord, element, crv, maybe more but cant think of them right now.

sorry to sound like such a noob, but why do/would you put a k20 head on a k24 ? wouldn't it restrict how much air can flow but using a smaller (?) head ? i've heard of it done before but what is the benefit ?

don't take this the wrong way, i just thought you'd want a bigger head, no ?