cone air filter on 92 i4
phisigbrotha
06-28-2004, 02:33 AM
looking to put on a cone air filter instead of spending more money on a intake tube since the stock tube works well. my question is can i put the air temp sensor thats in the stock air filter box on the intake tube with the engine throwing codes?
luther
luther
yotatechie04
06-28-2004, 03:50 AM
I'm pretty sure it would work...although there is a possibilty that it won't because the temp sensor measures the temperature of the air before it goes through the filter, not after. If anything, you could place the sensor in the filter if all else fails.
Daniel M. Dreifus
06-28-2004, 09:53 AM
I favor keeping the stock setup, and just keep the element clean, but regarding the air intake temperature sensor, some Bozo forgot to replace mine, and I drove for about 15,000 miles with a "hole" in the air box, the sensor was hidden along a frame rail, under the brake booster. When I discovered the error and put the sensor back in the air box there was no discernable change in performance or mileage, and I never had any engine codes.
phisigbrotha
06-28-2004, 10:54 PM
y do u recommend keeping the stock setup? since im in the desert (phoenix) i check the filter once a month and knock dust out of it. im looking for any horsepower i can get out of it even if its just a couple at the flywheel without making it a ghetto box.ive always babied my cars. i treat her like she was an expensive new car. shes dusted outside everyday after work and vacuumed and cleaned inside once a week. not only do i like a clean and good running car i wanna keep it as new as possible since im looking at gettin a new car in the next year. lookin at the scion tc
luther
luther
Brian R.
06-29-2004, 12:23 AM
You can get a TRD or AMSOIL air filter. They are higher capacity than the stock paper filter. You also have to get a cleaning kit to re-oil it after a while. They are both resusable. They are supposed to last twice as long as the stock filter before you have to clean it.
http://www.thebestoil.com/airfilters.htm
The AMSOIL filters are oil-wetted foam. The TRD filters are oil-wetted cotton fibre.
http://www.thebestoil.com/airfilters.htm
The AMSOIL filters are oil-wetted foam. The TRD filters are oil-wetted cotton fibre.
Daniel M. Dreifus
06-29-2004, 09:18 AM
[QUOTE=phisigbrotha]y do u recommend keeping the stock setup? since im in the desert (phoenix) i check the filter once a month and knock dust out of it.
The stock filter represents the best compromise between protecting the engine and allowing air flow.
Oil testing with aftermarket air filters almost always shows increased levels of "silica" - which is sand - grit which shouldn't be there.
On my '94 there already is a "cold air intake." There's an opening in the front bumper fascia that leads directly to an air box to capture the air pressurized from the car's forward motion. That air box in front of the wheel feeds up through a hole cut in the sheet metal near the battery, then a plastic snout feeds right into the air cleaner box.
Factory air filter element has three "stages" of filtration with a coarse outer layer and finer mesh in the core. Hold a stock Toyota air filter next to an aftermarket paper element, and you'll immediately see the difference.
I figure if you want better air flow. Just keep it clean.
What "high performance" filter manufacturer's usually don't mention, is that to get the higher air flow - less restriction - you're also reducing the effectiveness of the filtration. That may be OK for race cars that regularly get the engines rebuilt, but may not be so great for someone who wants to keep the car a long time.
The stock filter represents the best compromise between protecting the engine and allowing air flow.
Oil testing with aftermarket air filters almost always shows increased levels of "silica" - which is sand - grit which shouldn't be there.
On my '94 there already is a "cold air intake." There's an opening in the front bumper fascia that leads directly to an air box to capture the air pressurized from the car's forward motion. That air box in front of the wheel feeds up through a hole cut in the sheet metal near the battery, then a plastic snout feeds right into the air cleaner box.
Factory air filter element has three "stages" of filtration with a coarse outer layer and finer mesh in the core. Hold a stock Toyota air filter next to an aftermarket paper element, and you'll immediately see the difference.
I figure if you want better air flow. Just keep it clean.
What "high performance" filter manufacturer's usually don't mention, is that to get the higher air flow - less restriction - you're also reducing the effectiveness of the filtration. That may be OK for race cars that regularly get the engines rebuilt, but may not be so great for someone who wants to keep the car a long time.
Brian R.
06-29-2004, 10:02 AM
What "high performance" filter manufacturer's usually don't mention, is that to get the higher air flow - less restriction - you're also reducing the effectiveness of the filtration. That may be OK for race cars that regularly get the engines rebuilt, but may not be so great for someone who wants to keep the car a long time.
I don't think you can generalize like that. Some air filters are just better because they are a different design. Oil-wetted filters are much more efficient at stopping particles than the same mesh paper because they don't allow particles to bounce off the fibers. The oil on the fibers makes everything stick. Paper filters have to trap the particles in order to stop them. Particles that touch untreated paper can bounce off and be reentrained in the air stream.
Although I agree with what you said about various paper filters and how they compare, oil-wetted and paper filters do not compare. Oil-wetted filters are much more efficient with the same pore size than dry paper. Therefore, at the same efficiency, oil-wetted filters flow more without sacrificing filtering efficiency.
I don't think you can generalize like that. Some air filters are just better because they are a different design. Oil-wetted filters are much more efficient at stopping particles than the same mesh paper because they don't allow particles to bounce off the fibers. The oil on the fibers makes everything stick. Paper filters have to trap the particles in order to stop them. Particles that touch untreated paper can bounce off and be reentrained in the air stream.
Although I agree with what you said about various paper filters and how they compare, oil-wetted and paper filters do not compare. Oil-wetted filters are much more efficient with the same pore size than dry paper. Therefore, at the same efficiency, oil-wetted filters flow more without sacrificing filtering efficiency.
phisigbrotha
06-29-2004, 09:39 PM
ive owned desert driven hondas for the past 7 years all with aftermarket intakes and oiled cloth filters. my last one had a timing belt break last summer and had the head rebuilt. while it was out i noticed no internal damage due to dust or unclean air. in fact no damage at all. it never lost oil and the rings and cylinder walls were perfect.
im fully aware the ups and downs of modifieing cars in any way, been an avid car nut ever since i got my first crx at 16.
"There's an opening in the front bumper fascia that leads directly to an air box to capture the air pressurized from the car's forward motion. That air box in front of the wheel feeds up through a hole cut in the sheet metal near the battery, then a plastic snout feeds right into the air cleaner box."
even though the stock setup seems efficient because it pulls in air from the fender it still has a restrictor box (resinator) to keep the flow down and thus keeping intake volume down. also there is no comparison between a stock paper filter and an aftermarket oiled filter when it comes to flow. the oiled flows much better. brian is right.
eventually ill make my own intake tube because the stock rubber one broke at the T/B and i had to cut it and reclamp it. i will be able to make my own cold air intake a lot cheaper than most quality aftermarket ones and will still be able to easily convert it to a short ram/under hood intake.
luther
im fully aware the ups and downs of modifieing cars in any way, been an avid car nut ever since i got my first crx at 16.
"There's an opening in the front bumper fascia that leads directly to an air box to capture the air pressurized from the car's forward motion. That air box in front of the wheel feeds up through a hole cut in the sheet metal near the battery, then a plastic snout feeds right into the air cleaner box."
even though the stock setup seems efficient because it pulls in air from the fender it still has a restrictor box (resinator) to keep the flow down and thus keeping intake volume down. also there is no comparison between a stock paper filter and an aftermarket oiled filter when it comes to flow. the oiled flows much better. brian is right.
eventually ill make my own intake tube because the stock rubber one broke at the T/B and i had to cut it and reclamp it. i will be able to make my own cold air intake a lot cheaper than most quality aftermarket ones and will still be able to easily convert it to a short ram/under hood intake.
luther
yotatechie04
06-30-2004, 08:05 AM
I just recommend getting a K&N filter or something...that's what I've been using...since we had the car...also I'm told the Fram AirHogs are good too...so that might be something to try...
Brian R.
07-02-2004, 01:23 AM
I recommend boycotting Fram until they clean up their act on their oil filters. I have heard they are the worst.
Daniel M. Dreifus
07-02-2004, 10:05 AM
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&newwindow=1&threadm=3o4f8p%24vg%40ixnews2.ix.netcom.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fhl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DISO-8859-1%26newwindow%3D1%26q%3DK%2526N%2Bsilica%26meta%3D group%253Drec.autos.tech
From: Matthew E. O'Toole ([email protected])
Subject: Re: K&N air filter? *
View this article onlyNewsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 1995/05/02
In <[email protected]> [email protected] (GHAMMA01)
writes:
>
>I have had great luck with K&N filters. The number one main reason I like
>them is that they last forever (more or less) without cleaning (at least
>not very often). This is especially nice on fuel injected cars where the
>air filter is often buried under mass air sensors, etc. Instead of
>changing your filter every six months leave the K&N in for 50,000 miles.
>It actually works better dirty. As a bonus to the above, you may notice a
>performance increase. It seems to depend on the car. It made a
>noticeable difference on my 5.0 Mustang, and no apparent difference on my
>Firebird Formula 350. They normally cost about 2-4 times as much as an
>OEM filter.
I've used K&N filters over the years too, and while the results you
cite are not contrary to my experience, I am concerned about
recommending these for everyday use in a passenger vehicle. I have
done oil analysis on every car on which I've used a K&N. On all 6
cars, this showed many times the amount of silica particles (airborne
dust) in the oil than when a paper filter was used. This means that
the K&N does not do as good of a job filtering the air, allowing more
dirt into your engine. You may very well experience increased engine
wear due to this, as your oil filter will not catch it all.
Notice that K&N does not advertise their product as offering "better
filtration", only as offfering "better flow". The K&N is a good
product for it's intended use, which was not originally long term use
in a passenger vehicle.
Matt O.
From: Matthew E. O'Toole ([email protected])
Subject: Re: K&N air filter? *
View this article onlyNewsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 1995/05/02
In <[email protected]> [email protected] (GHAMMA01)
writes:
>
>I have had great luck with K&N filters. The number one main reason I like
>them is that they last forever (more or less) without cleaning (at least
>not very often). This is especially nice on fuel injected cars where the
>air filter is often buried under mass air sensors, etc. Instead of
>changing your filter every six months leave the K&N in for 50,000 miles.
>It actually works better dirty. As a bonus to the above, you may notice a
>performance increase. It seems to depend on the car. It made a
>noticeable difference on my 5.0 Mustang, and no apparent difference on my
>Firebird Formula 350. They normally cost about 2-4 times as much as an
>OEM filter.
I've used K&N filters over the years too, and while the results you
cite are not contrary to my experience, I am concerned about
recommending these for everyday use in a passenger vehicle. I have
done oil analysis on every car on which I've used a K&N. On all 6
cars, this showed many times the amount of silica particles (airborne
dust) in the oil than when a paper filter was used. This means that
the K&N does not do as good of a job filtering the air, allowing more
dirt into your engine. You may very well experience increased engine
wear due to this, as your oil filter will not catch it all.
Notice that K&N does not advertise their product as offering "better
filtration", only as offfering "better flow". The K&N is a good
product for it's intended use, which was not originally long term use
in a passenger vehicle.
Matt O.
yotatechie04
07-02-2004, 11:34 AM
I never heard of any problems with Fram oil filters, although I haven't ever used them...
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