A/C Problem following Heater Core replacement

I recently replaced the heater core (it blew) in my 96 Escort. Of course it requires removing the steering wheel, dashboard and everything else in the front cabin. Following the replacement and re-installation I began testing everything. For the most part everything works except the radio speakers, the Air Conditioning and now there is a noise that almost sounds like a small exhaust leak (chugging noise) when the car is in gear only. The noise gets worse as I accelerate and increase the load on the engine and transmission. The noise goes away when maintaining speed or coasting. Furthermore, while driving to work yesterday the check engine light came on. The air conditioner compressor clutch will not engage at all. I don't think it is due to low r-134 because it worked fine before the dashboard pull. I read on some forums to disconnect the battery for 5-10 mins and did so. Now the check engine light is off, so I probably reset any codes that were there. Oooops! At any rate I am baffled.

I have a few suspicions......

1. Perhaps I failed to thoroughly 'click' all the connectors when I put the dashboard back in. I am considering removing and starting over while carefully checking each connector.

2. Some antifreeze leaked onto the EEC module (I think) that is located directly under the heater core/venting assembly. I can understand why this may affect the compressor clutch and possibly the noise, but not the radio speakers. The radio powers up fine, but no sound. I'm not too worried about it. My major concerns are that noise and the a/c. I hope I don't have to replace that EEC module.

3. Following heater core replacement, I sprayed some water in the engine compartment (while engine was still cool) to remove some of the antifreeze that splashed around when I disconnected the heater core hoses. I'm concerned that perhaps some water annoyed the a/c compressor clutch switch located near the firewall or an a/c relay that I can't locate.

I guess I am asking for any thoughts and perhaps some information that would point me to a website that shows where all the A/C components are located in the car. I have a haynes manual that shows the electrical diagram, but it doesn't show the actual location of the various relays, switches etc...for the a/c system. BTW the blower unit works fine and the little blue a/c light on the environmental control slider works fine.

I'm in the middle of a heater core replacement myself. I've taken the lower dash and instrument panel off ( I too had coolant on the EEC module ), but am at an impass. I purchased the current Chilton manual, but it's not very helpful. It only describes the steps to remove the central instrument panel, remove the 3 mounting nuts for the heater housing, and remove housing. . I can't get a 15" diameter unit out of an 8" space. My question is this, where do you get the instructions for removing the dashboard? I've taken off the bolts that mount the tube steel frame, but can't find any other attachment areas.

My car is the 1994 Escort wagon with 1.9L & a/c.

I hate to say this, but your best bet for the radio would be to check the antenna lead, and as you say, make sure you "clicked" all the connections back together. As far as the hissing noise, it sounds like you either didn't get some of the ducting back tight, or if you bumped your a/c system, sprang a high pressure leak. This would match with the chugging while the engine is under load (and transmitting more power to the a/c compressor) than when in coasting mode. Of course, I'm just guessing. I have more experience around industrial power transmission devices than automotive systems.

Good luck, and I really appreciate it if you can provide the source for instructions to remove the dashboard. I'd hate to just rip it out (like I'm tempted to do).

DirtyHarry1959

I'm about to do a heater core replacement on my '95 LX wagon, too. I have both the Chilton and Haynes guides. A friend told me each has some things the other doesn't. From what I can put together, you will need to remove:
the instrument cluster (gauges) the heater control assembly (heat & A/C controls) the dash (passenger air bag, too)Chilton says you don't need to remove the steering wheel, Haynes does. I was able to remove the cluster without removing the wheel.

Each peice is described in different chapters. The cluster and instrument panel and pad (as Chilton describes it) are in the body chapter. the heater core in chassis electrical.

Can't wait to do mine! :banghead:

You probably made a good choice by purchasing both the haynes and chiltons manuals, but I can help you out as well.

Step 1....Remove the radio and ashtray. Do this prior to removing the steering column because you may have to move the gear shift to get them out. If you remove the steering first you may have to contend with the ignition linkage that allows you to move the automatic gearshifter. (depends on year, 92 does not have it, 96 does)
Step 2....Remove the upper and lower plastic covers that are on the steering wheel.
Step 3....Remove the steering column. There are four bolts that hold it up to the dashboard. There is also a bracket way under the dash just above where your feet go that needs to be loosened. Remove the bolt that attaches the steering column at the universal joint up against the firewall. Disconnect all the connectors and get the steering assembly clear, it will make life so much easier. Also, take a quick glance at the connectors, there are subtle clues regarding colors and shapes that will help for reassembly.
Step 4....Remove trim underneath the steering column. You will have to remove the triangular pop-out panel that are on both the left and right sides of the dashboard. They are covered up completely when the doors are closed. Removing these exposes two bolts that are need for glove compartment and under steering column trim. It also exposes four of the 11 large bolts needed to remove the dashboard.
Step 5....Remove trim around the instrument cluster
Step 6....Disconnect the speedometer cable from inside the engine compartment. There is a cotter pin type piece that keeps the cable in the transmission and it is very hard to get out. I had to pry it out with a screwdriver. As you do this, make sure not to disconnect any vaccuum hoses, or be mindful. That was the source of my hissing/chugging problem. Keep the little cotter pin piece. You will have to bend it back to straight and then reinsert and bend again after it is re-inserterd.
Step 7....Remove the instrument cluster. It helps if you push the speedometer cable through the firewall a little bit as you remove the cluster. Disconnect while paying attention to connector location.
Step 8....Remove the glove compartment. Don't forget about the triangular pop-out pieces that are on both ends of the dashboard and completely covered when the doors are closed.
Step 9....Remove the AC/heater controls. Be very careful because there is a lot of cheap plastic that breaks easily in there. A new control assembly costs about $275.00 from Ford.
Step 10...Remove kick panels from either side of the center console where the radio and AC controls are.
Step 11...Remove the center console.
Step 12...Remove the defroster grill. This is a pain-in-the.... There is a torx bolt directly in the center that must be taken out first. Problem is due to the angle of the windshield, it is impossible to get a torx screwdriver in there to get to it. I had to use a torx drill bit and a small wrench to slowly work it out. After you get that bolt out, the defroster grill pops out and three of the 11 main dashboard bolts will be exposed. They aren't easy to get out either. I am pretty sure ford puts the dashboard in before the windshield during factory assembly.
Step 13...Remove all dashboard bolts....there should be eleven of them....3 underneath the defroster grill, 4 behind the triangular pop-out panels on both ends of the dashboard and then 4 bolts in the center console. Don't worry about the dashboard titlting over and falling or slipping. The two pins in the center console and all the connections keep it in place.
Step 14....Sit in the drivers seat and slowly tilt the dashboard towareds you. There approximately 5 or 6 connectors that have to be disconnected, plus the dash has to separate from the defroster ducts. Once the dash is tilted forward and free and clear, remove it from the vehicle.
Step 15...There lies the heater assembly and the rest is self explanatory. Keep in mind that you have to remove the hoses from within the engine compartment.

*****MOST IMPORTANT*****......DO NOT PURCHASE AN AFTERMARKET HEATER CORE....THEY ARE SUBSTANDARD AND WILL BLOW IN WITHIN A YEAR OR TWO. I KNOW THIS BECAUSE IT HAPPENED TO ME ON MY 1992 ESCORT. PAY THE EXTRA MONEY FOR THE OEM PART FROM FORD.

Little hints and tricks.....Make darn sure that you "click" all the connectors when you put that dashboard back in, If you don't things like the AC and speakers may not work. Apparently the AC compressor and speaker wires run in the same connector, while all other wires for the AC and radio controls run elsewhere. It was blowing my mind that the radio would turn on and light up but no sould. Further more, I could see the little blue AC light and the fan speed selector worked fine.

Chances are your EEC module is fine....it is a sealed unit and very unlikely that any anti-freeze would get in there.

If you are getting wacky chugging/clicking noises and the check engine light comes on for a moment, it is probably a vaccuum hose problem that you created when trying to pry off that speedometer retainer clip. At first I thought I had inserted the speedometer cable into the transmission improperly because it sounded more like a clicking that chugging.

GOOD LUCK.....I've had two escorts, a 92 and 96. Both of them had heater cores blow at 100K. The first time I replace one the 92, I went to Pep Boys and got the part. A year later it blew and I went to Ford for the part. That car still has the one I should have gotten in the first place.

I don't know why ford would put a piece of *&@! part that apparently only lasts 100K in a place that is so hard to get to....I hate heater cores.

Have fun.

Troy

They make it a pain in the ass so you will go to them. Also, car makers design stuff to fail, that way they still profit off that car.

Just looking to see how long it took you to replace it...I have to do mine, and am wondering if it is worth giving to the mechanic?

Gary

CutcoRep5729 at Hotmail.com

The time so far.......the removal is easier with the previous instructions, THANK YOU!! the installation ??? we will see total time so far??? 12 hours.. Ford dealer called with the heater today ($84.00 + tax) but it is storming bigtime right now so i,ll let you know how the rest goes.

I too get a tac-a-taca sound just when I start the engine then it tapers off, or take off after a complete stop. I just changed the water pump and timming belt.

I also run cold, but have not read anything on the engine being higher than the radiator that could trap air, also. how about those radiador caps?? Do they really hold for long? Did your Escort run cold when new??

Thank you, all of you. I may keep this car after all. I just bought it and now am alittle concerned... should I be? It seems All of you LIKE your Escorts. Got to go and get the part and start to assemble. David

Hey EVERYONE, I finished the H. C. total time 20 hours. I am very slow.

The tac-a tacka sound was due to timing belt cover on too tight. The rad. cap was @ 13lb good.

They make it a pain in the ass so you will go to them. Also, car makers design stuff to fail, that way they still profit off that car.

It's just a shame ford don't keep the parts anymore :sly: