How do you change Back 3 Spark Plugs?


OSUCowboy27
06-14-2004, 11:46 AM
2000 Chevy Venture

How do you change Back 3 Spark Plugs on the 3.4L ? I have heard that the front motor mount must be removed and motor rotated forward as far as possible. Is this true or is there another, easier way?

bigjetguy
06-14-2004, 03:28 PM
That's the deal, the same goes for my 2000 grand prix. So I get a double whammy.

timeflies
06-29-2004, 12:25 PM
No need to rotate engine as I was told that sometimes this causes damage to exhaust link which is flex. Anyhoo, first two plugs can be reached by going along the same channel as exhaust pipe from header runs. Last plug remove right side tire and you can reach up by body work to change it. This one is blind, but it's possible. Canadian Tire (and I'm sure other stores) sell a plug changing kit which has a ratchet handle that is curved as well as the head goes back and forth. It wouldn't have been possible without this specialty ratchet. Total time to change all plugs: 3 hours. Hopefully 2 or less next time.

gadan
06-30-2004, 07:09 AM
did you also change the wires?

timeflies
07-18-2004, 09:59 AM
No, I didn't. Wires are for next year to change :)

gadan
07-19-2004, 02:33 PM
I was able to change all 6 spark plugs yesterday, but the car is shaking a little bit now at idle speed (it was not shaking before). I don't know if I did something wrong, but I'm going to change the wires next weekend and hopefully that will fix the problem.

gadan
07-20-2004, 09:03 AM
Today the car is shaking a little bit less than yesterday. Do you think is normal for the car to shake a little bit after replacing the spark plugs. I replaced them after 118000 miles with the same type, Bosh Platinum 4.
Thanx once again to everybody for all your BIG HELP.

timeflies
07-26-2004, 12:08 PM
After I changed the plugs to Bosch Platinum 4 I have a bit of shaking as well. I don't know if I accidently bent in one or more of the electrodes closer to the center electrode. I don't think I did. Anyhoo, they are pre-gapped plugs and the gap is smaller that it calls for in the manual. I also talked to a mechanic who said to replace plugs only with OE ones because otherwise I'll get some shaking/missing. OE plugs were $20.00 a set, Bosch Platinum 4's were on sale for $8.00 a set. 'Nuff said! Shaking/missing began right after plug change so I know that's what it is. Performance/fuel economy is way up since plug change. We'll see what happens. BTW repair manual I bought has detailed instructions how to change back 3 plugs including removing coil pack and rotating engine. I'll still do it the way I found out b/c I can imagine that that flex piece in the exhaust would be very expensive as it would be a specialty part.

gadan
07-26-2004, 08:09 PM
After I changed the plugs to Bosch Platinum 4 I have a bit of shaking as well. I don't know if I accidently bent in one or more of the electrodes closer to the center electrode. I don't think I did. Anyhoo, they are pre-gapped plugs and the gap is smaller that it calls for in the manual. I also talked to a mechanic who said to replace plugs only with OE ones because otherwise I'll get some shaking/missing. OE plugs were $20.00 a set, Bosch Platinum 4's were on sale for $8.00 a set. 'Nuff said! Shaking/missing began right after plug change so I know that's what it is. Performance/fuel economy is way up since plug change. We'll see what happens. BTW repair manual I bought has detailed instructions how to change back 3 plugs including removing coil pack and rotating engine. I'll still do it the way I found out b/c I can imagine that that flex piece in the exhaust would be very expensive as it would be a specialty part.
You sure you paid 8 dollars for the set?, I paid 6.99 each one, anyway... Maybe I bent one of the electrodes, I did not rotate the engine, just went under the car following the exaust, I'm lucky I have long arms! I now get a check engine light, code P0303 (misfire cylinder #3), last weekend I tighted a little bit the spark plug in cyl 3 and the light went off but came up again. Next thing is replace all the cables, and if the shaking persist, then I'm going to take out the spark and put it back.

bj3731
07-30-2004, 04:44 PM
The same thing happened to me a few months ago, but I never paid any attention to it.....now it's misfiring really bad, and was wondering if the plugs are the problem?? I also used the Bosch platinums, and I replaced the wires w/ the upper level ones from AutoZone. Now its misfiring, w/ the same code (for cyl. #3). I tried a new coil, checked the plug, and all the wires, and not getting better. Any ideas how to contiue?? Do I purchase the delco plugs instead?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

alphalanos
07-30-2004, 04:47 PM
most likely its the gap. your car must require a different gap measurement than usual. id get some OEM plugs if you really want the shakng to go away.

broughy84
08-13-2004, 06:03 PM
get rid of the bosch plugs, they are cheap. I have seen probably 100's of vehicles with these in them and they will miss after the owner changes them. You get what you pay for, they are prone to cracking. Bottom line, stay OEM.

dinamobuc
09-11-2004, 05:12 PM
Have you guys tried over the top of engine with the coil pack out? :confused:

broughy84
09-12-2004, 11:33 AM
not easy, but i would say it could be done.

Nick99z
01-27-2005, 09:42 PM
changed spark plugs, used the remove coil pack (ICM) method.

Now I get the service engine soon light.

Used OEM Delco plugs.

Kevcules
01-29-2005, 05:18 PM
From what I've heard don't use the bosch plugs. A mechanic told me the only vehicles that call for them are Volkswagon.
I've replaced my plugs with the GM oem plugs. They are a premium platinum plug supposed to last 120,000 kms. They were still in good shape at 85,000 kms, but was warned not to wait too long to change them for fear of them getting stuck in the heads.
I went over the top of the engine with the three in the back. I removed the three coil packs and it was still a tough go , you can't see anything, just feel.
For one , I will never own another Venture and two, if there is a next time on one of these engines , I would probably pay the $100 labour it takes to do it. It took me 3 hours for all six plugs !!!

ugoSilo
02-22-2005, 08:21 AM
hi, bosch 4 are ideal for hemi head vehicles such as chrysler and alfa romeo. stick with conventional single electrode platinum.



The same thing happened to me a few months ago, but I never paid any attention to it.....now it's misfiring really bad, and was wondering if the plugs are the problem?? I also used the Bosch platinums, and I replaced the wires w/ the upper level ones from AutoZone. Now its misfiring, w/ the same code (for cyl. #3). I tried a new coil, checked the plug, and all the wires, and not getting better. Any ideas how to contiue?? Do I purchase the delco plugs instead?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

tgs2101
02-24-2005, 11:11 AM
Today the car is shaking a little bit less than yesterday. Do you think is normal for the car to shake a little bit after replacing the spark plugs. I replaced them after 118000 miles with the same type, Bosh Platinum 4.
Thanx once again to everybody for all your BIG HELP.

I went through the same thing; I put in Bosch +4 plugs and the engine had bit of detonation. I had to replace the wires at the time, as I ruined the back three getting them off. I used lube when I put the new ones on in the event I ever had to do it again. Which brings me to my point.

I had to go back to the AC Delco plugs to get the engine running right. You need to use OE equipment, at least with GM motors. I know those parts guys will push Bosch on you. but the plugs are designed to have a certain amount of resistance, heat, etc....

My van is running smooth with OE plugs now. Also, I didn't have to loosen the motor mounts but my arms were bruised for 3 weeks.

gunjes
02-24-2005, 12:01 PM
nick99z, this may be due to the computer needing to readjust things( fuel\air mixture) idle speed and others . Is the van running rough?

chicksmom
03-06-2005, 06:20 PM
changed spark plugs, used the remove coil pack (ICM) method.

Now I get the service engine soon light.

Used OEM Delco plugs.

I am having the same problem.. i just purchased mine and the service engine light came on, and was rough idleing and they said it needed a tune-up, so I had it done. Guess what?? now it is idleing even more rough, and now it is misfiring at around 55- 65 miles per hour. never misfired before. had it back in the shop and they checked everything out and said they couldnt find the problem. they suggested having a fuel injector cleaning service done. I have ran 2 bottles of seafoam through the gas tank, still the same problem. i know they used the good plugs, cause it cost me about 150.00 to have just the spark plugs changed, then they said it needed new wires, had that done and it runs worse now then before I had it Tuned up. any suggestions?? should I have the fuel injector cleaning system done?? thanks so much.

tgs2101
03-07-2005, 09:45 AM
I am having the same problem.. i just purchased mine and the service engine light came on, and was rough idleing and they said it needed a tune-up, so I had it done. Guess what?? now it is idleing even more rough, and now it is misfiring at around 55- 65 miles per hour. never misfired before. had it back in the shop and they checked everything out and said they couldnt find the problem. they suggested having a fuel injector cleaning service done. I have ran 2 bottles of seafoam through the gas tank, still the same problem. i know they used the good plugs, cause it cost me about 150.00 to have just the spark plugs changed, then they said it needed new wires, had that done and it runs worse now then before I had it Tuned up. any suggestions?? should I have the fuel injector cleaning system done?? thanks so much.


Have you had the fuel filter changed? Is is possible that you could have had bad gas?

Since so much work has been done on the vehicle, you need to make sure all the connections have plugged back in, and are seated properly. For example, near the throttle body, to the left, the coolant temp. sensor has a plug. It is very important.

New plug wires are tricky. You have to get them to snap onto the tip of the plug. they are real hard on this van, especially the back 3. If you don't get them on good, you will be running on less than 6 cylinders

Check your vacuum and MAP tubes, especially the one that plugs into the top of the rubber air intake hose. It goes back and down behind the engine. Is it flopping around from behind? I had a heck of a time getting that joker plugged back in.

Go to Auto Zone and have them run the code(s) that the van is displaying. This will help you too.

Good luck

chicksmom
03-07-2005, 01:51 PM
Have you had the fuel filter changed? Is is possible that you could have had bad gas?

Since so much work has been done on the vehicle, you need to make sure all the connections have plugged back in, and are seated properly. For example, near the throttle body, to the left, the coolant temp. sensor has a plug. It is very important.

New plug wires are tricky. You have to get them to snap onto the tip of the plug. they are real hard on this van, especially the back 3. If you don't get them on good, you will be running on less than 6 cylinders

Check your vacuum and MAP tubes, especially the one that plugs into the top of the rubber air intake hose. It goes back and down behind the engine. Is it flopping around from behind? I had a heck of a time getting that joker plugged back in.

Go to Auto Zone and have them run the code(s) that the van is displaying. This will help you too.

Good luck


thank you so much, I had it checked at autozone and they came up with the 6th cylinder is missing, I also had it put on the computer at the shop and they said the same thing. they checked the coil packs, and did a pressure check, came up with no reason for the check engine light or the missing. suggested doing a fuel injection cleaning service.. I am going to have my husband change my fuel filter. do you know if it is very hard to change yourself?? I know you need to release the pressure, but not sure exactly how to replace it for sure.. Thanks so much!!!

Fischy
10-16-2005, 12:33 AM
Attempting to replace the back 3 plugs, I tried pulling the cat pipe (no good), and I tried going in through the wheel well (no good), finally I rotated the engine forward.

Loosen the two front mounts and attach the two tie down hooks to the two engine lift loops and run the strap in front of the hood latch plate.

Disconnect the intake tube at the throttle body and ratchet the engine forward so the exhaust heat shield gets close to the radiator fan.

Remove the left coil only for acceptable access. Loosen the wiper strut and rotate out of the way. My sparkplug boots must have been glued on so I used a 45 degree plug wire puller.

This way works fine as long as you have a fair assortment of extensions.
FYI my factory plugs were very eroded on the ground strap (90,000m) so they were replaced with another type of plugs. Champion double platinums, one range colder.
Steve
2000 pontiac montana

Kevcules
10-16-2005, 09:07 PM
QUOTE.
I am having the same problem.. i just purchased mine and the service engine light came on, and was rough idleing and they said it needed a tune-up, so I had it done. Guess what?? now it is idleing even more rough, and now it is misfiring at around 55- 65 miles per hour. never misfired before. had it back in the shop and they checked everything out and said they couldnt find the problem. they suggested having a fuel injector cleaning service done. I have ran 2 bottles of seafoam through the gas tank, still the same problem. i know they used the good plugs, cause it cost me about 150.00 to have just the spark plugs changed, then they said it needed new wires, had that done and it runs worse now then before I had it Tuned up. any suggestions?? should I have the fuel injector cleaning system done?? thanks so much.

ChicksMom

If you brought your van to the shop and it works worse than it did before that, tell the shop to find the problem they created. Even though I do agree adding an additive to your gas once and awhile is a good thing, I doubt your injectors would cause a problem after a spark plug and wires change.Don't pay another cent until they figure out what they caused and then still don't pay.

traker1001
10-28-2005, 11:30 PM
Attempting to replace the back 3 plugs, I tried pulling the cat pipe (no good), and I tried going in through the wheel well (no good), finally I rotated the engine forward.

Loosen the two front mounts and attach the two tie down hooks to the two engine lift loops and run the strap in front of the hood latch plate.

Disconnect the intake tube at the throttle body and ratchet the engine forward so the exhaust heat shield gets close to the radiator fan.

Remove the left coil only for acceptable access. Loosen the wiper strut and rotate out of the way. My sparkplug boots must have been glued on so I used a 45 degree plug wire puller.

This way works fine as long as you have a fair assortment of extensions.
FYI my factory plugs were very eroded on the ground strap (90,000m) so they were replaced with another type of plugs. Champion double platinums, one range colder.
Steve
2000 pontiac montana

Sure is easy if you have an engine lift:)

goingmyway1963
10-14-2006, 07:15 PM
2000 Chevy Venture

How do you change Back 3 Spark Plugs on the 3.4L ? I have heard that the front motor mount must be removed and motor rotated forward as far as possible. Is this true or is there another, easier way?

Thanks to the info in here I was able to change the back 3 plugs by only jacking up the front of the van and putting on jackstands. Then was able to reach up and get the center and drivers side plug. The middle one I cracked but was able to recover it all. I did have to remove the passenger tire to get enough leverage on the ratchet handle and my set of of extensions and ratchets paid for them selves again doing a job like this. All seemed well until I started the van and it sounded like crap and the service engine light stayed on. I went back underneath and found the middle wire was not on the plug even though it seemed ok. You just can see anything its all by touch but after that the motor sounded fine and the service engine light went off.

Has anyone done the distributor cap and rotor? Thanks

andrewc52002
02-19-2007, 12:53 PM
get rid of the bosch plugs, they are cheap. I have seen probably 100's of vehicles with these in them and they will miss after the owner changes them. You get what you pay for, they are prone to cracking. Bottom line, stay OEM.

I installed Bosch Platinum-2, which are not cheap btw - at least here in Toronto. The van shaked. Checked plugs. One was cracked, nr. 3. Replaced it. Shake again. Checked plugs. Another one cracked. Threw out all Bosch plugs. Replaced with NGK GP Platinum, which are half price of Bosch. Shake and SES light went off.
My opinion: indeed, don't use Bosch, stay OEM.
I had similar problems with Bosch plugs for Suzuki Esteem 2000. Threw them to the garbage and replaced with NGK.

Blue Bowtie
02-19-2007, 03:49 PM
Please use threads older than six months for archive/reference only. If you have a problem, even if it is similar, begin a new thread so that you'll get the attention you deserve.

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