My AC hasn't worked at all since it warmed up. It worked great last year. When I turn it on, the compressor sounds like its turning on but it doesn't blow any cool air. Does this just sound like a recharge or something more expensive. (4.0 liter)

Same thing happened to me i think. i was thinking the same thing at the time cause it was starting to get warm outside when it happened. in my 97 GC, nothing blew out of the vents. If this is the same for u , u can try what i did. i found the wires that hook up to the blower motor which is underneath the glove department. its two wires, one is orange and the other is black. i just took a line of loose cable that was laying around and stuck one side of the cable so it touched the wire going to the blower motor and the other end of the cable to something metal. in my case a screw located on the door. this caused a spark when it hit the screw so heads up. but as soon as i gave it that spark i think it gave the blower motor enough power to open the vacuum in the vents. and it has been workin flawlessly for me for a couple of weeks now. and if u do attempt this make sure the cable is insulated and u only are holding on to it on the insulated part, not the copper. good luck

Air comes out of the vents but it is luke warm. I should have been more specific. Any other ideas? thanks.

I just had the same issue on my 96 GC. One thing you can try is start the vehicle and open the hood turn on the AC and watch the clutch on the compressor. See if it engages and starts to spin then it may dis-engage and cycle like this engage ... dis-engage. if that is the situation take it to the service center to have the AC recharged. I was having the same issue yesterday and took it to a service center today and it was 1.25 lbs low on the refrigrant. My system only holds 1.75 lbs. the system should use R-134a freon. this is not expensive stuff. My service cost like $35.00 plus labor. I recommend having it done simply because they evac the system and lube and recharge it for you. Good luck I hope this helps.

About your AC in your Jeep, don't take it to a service center and simply ask for a refill of refrigerant just yet. The advice he gave is correct, their must be a leak somewhere in your AC system. What happens is the freon leaks and the pressure decreases enough that the belt you see stops spinning. So, if you put some back in, it will temporarily solve the problem. Your better off not wasting the money on the labor. I'm having the exact same problem right now, the only problem is that I can't find the leak. I've researched and found out that Jeeps typically have problems with the Evaporator, also known has the Cooling Coil. They also cost $135 to replace, and that's without labor. But you could have a simple problem, so your best bet is to take it to someone who knows about AC and have them check it with a leak detector, then see where you stand from there.

... I'm having the exact same problem right now, the only problem is that I can't find the leak. I've researched and found out that Jeeps typically have problems with the Evaporator, also known has the Cooling Coil. They also cost $135 to replace, and that's without labor. But you could have a simple problem, so your best bet is to take it to someone who knows about AC and have them check it with a leak detector, then see where you stand from there.

Ever since I bought my 95 ZJ, 5.2L, I have had problems with the AC always needing to be charged every year. Nobody could ever find the leak. Turns out it was in the passenger compartment not in the engine compartment which, to my understanding is where the evaporator/cooling coil is located. The part as dizzle24 stated isn't extremely expensive but supposedly it's a lot of labor because the dash has to be pulled apart to replace it. Can anyone confirm this? I'm heading into my 4th summer without the AC because a $500-600 AC repair is not in the budget. Any chance of this being a DIY job? :dunno:

Thanks,

This may not work for you, but I had a confirmed evap. leak and was quoted $800 to replace. Came across a two-part stop leak kit for metal and rubber @ Walmart and felt $35 for kit and freon charge would be worth a try versus my pulling the dash to get to the evap. It seems to have worked! We've been a couple of weeks with good cooling and pressure reading. If the problem had been under the hood and accessible I wouldn't have tried the stop leak due to the risk (I understand you can hurt the system's components) and would have swapped out the offending part... I guess if it's working now, I didn't cause damage. Here's hoping...

Craig, I was curious as to how and what the you used the leak in your jeep. I was aware that the labor was incredibly expensive, as you noted because much of it is disassembly and then reassembling the dash. I had planned to try it myself with some help from a guy who had experience with AC in general, but none in automobiles. I would appreciate if you could be more specific about how you used the kit and if it did indeed stop an assumed leak. At $35 it seems only logical to try that before engulfing myself in a task I would most likely not do properly. Thanks.

dizzle- The product sells at Wal-mart, is in a blister pack and has two tiny cans (about $11-12). I can't remember brand but it was the only stop leak that had two parts... one to seal metal (which I guess would do the evaporator) and the second to flush out the metal sealer and seal rubber. I also bought a can of 134a, thus the $35 total. HERE'S THE CATCH... My wife's been driving the car and she thinks it's not cooling as well as when I originally did the stop leak... so, it may have only slowed the leak or it may not have gotten enough charge from the freon can I used after the stop leak. The gauge that comes w/ the 134a can doesn't tell you precisely what the pressure is, just shows you're w/in the "okay" zone. So, I'm going to check the relative pressure with the guage and see if it's dropped substantially. If it hasn't, I may spring another $12 bucks for another kit since I'll need another can of freon anyway in case the system might have been a little under charged. If it all leaked out, I know I've got to rip out the dash board. But if there's any chance I can seal the leak well enough to make it thru the summer for another $35...

As an aside, using stop leak of any kind on an automotive system is contrary to everything I've learned as a shade tree mechanic... this is a spare car for us, so the downside isn't disasterous (not good, but not disasterous). I'd never do this on one of our main vehicles. SO, I'M NOT ADVOCATING THIS STUFF... you might ruin the system and end up in much worse shape. I'll let you know what happens.

dizzle- The product sells at Wal-mart, is in a blister pack and has two tiny cans (about $11-12). I can't remember brand but it was the only stop leak that had two parts... one to seal metal (which I guess would do the evaporator) and the second to flush out the metal sealer and seal rubber. I also bought a can of 134a, thus the $35 total. HERE'S THE CATCH... My wife's been driving the car and she thinks it's not cooling as well as when I originally did the stop leak... so, it may have only slowed the leak or it may not have gotten enough charge from the freon can I used after the stop leak. The gauge that comes w/ the 134a can doesn't tell you precisely what the pressure is, just shows you're w/in the "okay" zone. So, I'm going to check the relative pressure with the guage and see if it's dropped substantially. If it hasn't, I may spring another $12 bucks for another kit since I'll need another can of freon anyway in case the system might have been a little under charged. If it all leaked out, I know I've got to rip out the dash board. But if there's any chance I can seal the leak well enough to make it thru the summer for another $35...

As an aside, using stop leak of any kind on an automotive system is contrary to everything I've learned as a shade tree mechanic... this is a spare car for us, so the downside isn't disasterous (not good, but not disasterous). I'd never do this on one of our main vehicles. SO, I'M NOT ADVOCATING THIS STUFF... you might ruin the system and end up in much worse shape. I'll let you know what happens.

Hey Craig, how is the AC holding up? I stopped at Wally World today and bought the EZChill Recharge/sealer kit. I did the recharge tonight and it took about 1.5 cans. It took a loooooong time to take it all in. Did you experience the same? My system was bone dry so I expected for it to take more. The cans are 15oz so it took about 23oz and was at 45psi when I stopped. It isn't putting out really really cold air but it is cool air which is better than hot air. Let us know if it is holding out.
Thanks

Here's the update... The guage from the 134a can set up was showing the system at the low end of the blue zone (about 25#?) and the air felt about the same temp as after I sealed it and charged with the one large can. Seemed like it might be under-charged since I only put one can into probably an empty system. Put in about an 11 oz. can and got the pressure up to the top of the blue zone (45#) w/ icy air (better than before) inside the car. We've been driving it around for a while and a/c is still putting out. I'd want a few weeks on it to say that it works, but so far, so good.

95 orvis- seems like @ 45# you should have icy air... let me know how your situation progresses.

95 orvis- seems like @ 45# you should have icy air... let me know how your situation progresses.


It's cold for now so I, like you, am keeping my fingers crossed. Any idea whether there are harmful effects of breathing that stuff if it is actually leaking into the passenger compartment?

The HVAC mechanics I've known never seemed too concerned about exposure to escaping gas. Of course, now-a-days you're supposed to recover it all because even the environmentally friendly stuff (like 134a) isn't good for the environment. There's been plenty of stuff like fiberglass insulation and asbestos that nobody was too concerned about breathing once upon a time... As to personal damage, I really think it's all about an individual's genetic resistance to damage, the amount of exposure and factors that might compound slight amounts of damage like smoking. I really think most people can tolerate exposure to anything in moderation. But, yeah, I had the same thought about the leaking evaporator in the passenger compartment... but I wasn't driving the car when the stuff leaked out :)! Anybody out there have some REAL knowledge on this topic??

But, yeah, I had the same thought about the leaking evaporator in the passenger compartment... but I wasn't driving the car when the stuff leaked out :)! Anybody out there have some REAL knowledge on this topic??

I was driving it around every year when they kept recharging it on an annual basis. Maybe that's been the root of my problems the last few years. :lol2: Maybe there is a class action suit in the future. :rofl:

I agree that most things in moderation cause no more damage than waking up in any metropolitan city. Look at LA, 3 out of 5 days in the summer the have smog alerts. What is a little R134 going to do to you that the smog won't. :cwm27:

i too was told by my local jeep dealer that my evaporator needed to be replaced but never said what the problem was im assuming a leak.
wally world also carries a died refrigerant that will tell you where the leak is but wont be able too tell if its behind the dash.
the evap coil is about 150 and about $400-$500 for install
im thinking or haveing the system flushed then going in behind the dash myself,
id rather fix it permanently than keep ontop of filling it every so often
im just not sure how the inlet and outlet lines are fastend onto the evap coil are they soldered,clamped
any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

...or haveing the system flushed then going in behind the dash myself, id rather fix it permanently than keep ontop of filling it every so often im just not sure how the inlet and outlet lines are fastend onto the evap coil are they soldered,clamped any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

injohn81,
I've not done it but considered it given the expense for them to do it. If you do it, please post your results & comments about the job.
Thanks