Hi everyone. =)

I am the owner of a 1988 Z-24 Cavalier. I know next to nothing about cars. ;) We recently got our Cavalier back after having it in the shop for a month. They changed our fuel pump, fuel strainer, temperature control sensor, spark plugs, and computer (not the chip but the actual computer). What was originally going on was whenever I would start the car, it would jerk forward during acceleration and eventually die. It woulnd't go more than a foot (if you were lucky enough to get it started and keep it going) without jerking to a stop, making a lot of engine noise, and eventually dying. The mechanic decided the engine wasn't getting enough fuel and that the computer had died. We shelled out $1003.77 on the stupid thing, and now we're having new problems with it.

We can't get it to turn over when you start it up. We've had it happen quite a few times now, and we couldn't even get it into the parking lot at home. It looks like we're going to have to get it back in the shop, seeing as it's dying in the middle of intersections. When you come to a stop and start to accelerate, it acts like it's going to die and sometimes jerks forwards (if you're lucky). Granted, the car's an '88 with over 160,000 miles on it, but seeing as we've replaced quite a few things in it, we'd expect it to work a little better.

Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? You can email me at lorizath@hotmail.com or just answer here. =)

Thanks for your help!

First some questions. Did the OBDI return any codes? You indicate that the fuel pump and strainer were changed. What about the fuel filter. You are describing a classic fuel filter problem.

And you are saying that now it will not turn over when starting. Is it turning over after several tries? When it does not turn over do you hear any clicking? You indicated that it is dying in intersections, that says it is eventually starting. By turning over do you mean that the starter is not cranking the engine OR it is rotating but not starting? It makes a difference.

Have you had the Idle Air Control Valve and the throttle body checked and cleaned? Check the Throttle Position Sensor. Basic stuff but these can cause problems if stuck or dirty.

This problem is not related to mileage. if you look around these pages you will find that these cars are good for 250,000 to 300,000 on a regular basis.

Over a thousand dollars and not repaired. You may need a new mechanic. Better diagnosis would have shown if the fuel pump was good or bad. It is very easy to check. Replacement of a good part indicates that he or she is shooting in the dark. Find a well equipped shop and read up in these forums.You will then know of what you speak. A mechanics favorite customer is the one who says "I don't know anything about cars".. You can almost hear the cash register ring.

Please answer as soon as possible so we can help.
I'm in here almost every day except Sunday. Good luck.

Well, after several attempts of trying to start the car, it will sound like it starts to turn over but doesnt. The car now acts as if the battery is dying cause the gauge lights on the dash dim to the point where they go out when trying to start the car. This doesnt make sense to me, though, as I just spent 65bux for a new battery 2 weeks before it went into the shop. I left the car alone for a few hours came back to it and it started up... I drove it all but a few feet and tried to turn in the parking lot and it died again. Tried to start it again and it wouldnt turn over. I dont know what an OBDI is...

A list of the things replaced:
fuel pump
fuel pump strainer
fuel filter
relay
reman computer
temp sensor
map sensor
ignition wire set
sparkplug

First let me apologize in advance for the detailed questions to follow. For a non-mechanic these can be difficult to answer. Print this out and take your time.

I will assume that the motor is rotating and wanting to start(fires and then stalls)? Does it backfire? Will it start on either (starting fluid)?
Are the plug wires crossed? Crossing the plug wires will cause the symptoms you describe.

Does it have steady spark? I note that the mechanic changed plug wires and fuel filter. This is very curious as the two systems are not related and easily tested. I am suspious of the motives of this mechanic. That is why I asked about the crossed plug wires. The fuel system and the ignition (engine electrical) are separate. If the engine is not getting fuel (like it is out of gas) you would not normally replace any electrical parts. You would look only at the fuel system.

If it will not start on starting fluid but does have spark, then you may need to look at the timing. If it backfires this is a giveaway that the timing is off. Make note if it backfires through the intake or the exaust.

OBDI is the on board diagnostic computer built into this car. You can put a jumper between two of the terminals and the service engine light will flash a code. The connector is next to the fuse box under the dash. Your mechanic should have checked this first. Their may not be any codes though.

Please be very clear when describing your symptoms. I really do want to help. Even if you take it to another mechanic you will be better informed and avoid being ripped off. Turn over??? Turn over is very different than "start". I can only go by what you say.

Turn the key-on a working car and here is what happens.
1.The battery turns the starter (a large electric motor) which turns over the motor. The battery even when new is only able to do this for a very short time.
2.Under normal circumstances the engine will start and the alternator then recharges the battery.
Note that you cannot keep cranking the engine for 30 minutes even if you do it one minute at a time. You will now need to recharge the battery.

Looking through the work done so far I notice that the throttle body has not been cleaned. This is a must do for a car not starting. It is a cheap easy and fast thing to do. The IAC valve and the Throttle Position Sensor cause a lot of starting problems. These items are located on the throttle body. The IAC is prone to carbon build up. If it becomes stuck it will alter the fuel/air ratio and it will not start. This can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some carb cleaner. Again, Good luck.

it would be wise to check the Ignition module and the TCC sensor as well. To me this sounds like a bad TCC (torque converter control) sensor as i've had many go bad in my time witht he same symptoms. I have 2 90 z24's, and both have had the TCC disconnected for this reason. Not sure if the sensor is in the same place on your year model but you can take a look. Under the hood, driver side, on the front of the transmission, the sensor points toward the radiator, or directly strait ahead. has a 4 wire connector, square in shape. try to disconnect that and see if it stops dieing.

Check The Crank Sensor I Had A Pontiac That Did The Same Thig That You Are Talking About
My Car Keep Turning Over But Yet Did Not Did Not Start
It Seemed Like It Wanted To Turn over But Yet Did'nt
I Hope That This Helps
I Hate CarsThat Will Not Start good Luck

Yes, I should have mentioned this earlier. On my 94 the TCC has been disconnected for over a year now. But I am not sure that the 88 has a TCC. I believe it does not.

coil pack maybe??? It could be somanythings.. dont you love Z24's, i have owned two of themm, but the second the car hits the wonderfull 160,000 mile mark, all hell breaks lose, but, hey, i street race mine, and one of mine was boosted to 10 psi, so hey, i had it coming
~mike

What color is it, is it a 5spd, and do you want to sell it?