Syntec Oil vs Regular Oil

What do you guys think about syntec oil over regular oil. I hear that syntec oil doesnt break down as fast as regular oil does, but is this true and how does it benefit your engine? What do you guys think?

Bxcivic2000

I assume you have a sohc economy engine, so just use regular 10w30 in the Summer and 5w30 in the winter. The 5 and 10 are viscosity ratings, like the thickness of the oil. In the summer the heat causes molecule expansion and thins oil out so 10w30 is good for not leaking through the rings and burning. In winter the oil will be thicker because it's cold, so 5w30 in the winter will almost equate to 10w30 because of how thin it already is.

Mobil1 0W-40

Synthetic oil doesn't break down or burn like normal oil. Synthetic also has less friction(more power, less heat. I don't recommend going more than 5,000miles per oil change with syn. I run syn & still change mine every 3K.

dyno test syn vs. regular - http://www.importreview.com/reviews/Mobil11030vsreg10-130valv.html

I've come to the same choices here... My engin's running fine, but I noticed a slight ticking sound when it's on idle and it hums a bit louder than a normal engin of it's same year (97 accord). I only got 80k miles on it and was recommended to use the Lucus oil stablizer with my normal use of 10w30 oils. The last 2 oil change the mechanic just dumped the whole bottle in even when I told them to use just half... Anyways, I detect no difference.

Now someone recommended to me to use synthetic oil, due to the same reasons mentioned in the 2 posts above: less heat generated, and less thick. But now my concern is can I go back to motor oil after using syn for a while? Since it's more costly to use, and I have to keep remind the mechanics at oil change shop to use synthetic, which is a drag... :rolleyes:

I'd do the oil change myself, cept my car's lowered, and my 1.5 ton jack can't even go under it, and those portable ramps scraps my bumper... Anyone else in the same boat? :banghead:

crap im using Castrol syntec 5W-30 in my lanos 1.6 dohc. the weather is hot as hell right now should i go back to 10W??

I've come to the same choices here... My engin's running fine, but I noticed a slight ticking sound when it's on idle and it hums a bit louder than a normal engin of it's same year (97 accord). I only got 80k miles on it and was recommended to use the Lucus oil stablizer with my normal use of 10w30 oils. The last 2 oil change the mechanic just dumped the whole bottle in even when I told them to use just half... Anyways, I detect no difference.

Now someone recommended to me to use synthetic oil, due to the same reasons mentioned in the 2 posts above: less heat generated, and less thick. But now my concern is can I go back to motor oil after using syn for a while? Since it's more costly to use, and I have to keep remind the mechanics at oil change shop to use synthetic, which is a drag... :rolleyes:

I'd do the oil change myself, cept my car's lowered, and my 1.5 ton jack can't even go under it, and those portable ramps scraps my bumper... Anyone else in the same boat? :banghead:

Ticking sound: Is it a 4 cylinder? If so the engine requires valve adjustments about every 30K. Your also coming up on a timing belt replacement(VERY IMPORTANT) At the same time have your valves adjusted & water pump changed. Drive belts & any leaking cam or crank seals will be cheaper with the t/belt replacement since it's all gonna be apart.

Switching from Synthetic to regular or synthetic blend is a myth. You can switch any time you want, just don't mix different types. If the car was factory filled with synthetic(vettes, vipers, Porsche, etc.) then it is a VERY BAD idea to switch from the full synthetic.

Drive up on to 2x4 pieces of wood then try to jack on the front/center lifting point(metal beam across front car - has notch) If you have no luck with the pieces of wood, get out your jack from the car. Lift at side lifting point until 1.5ton jack fits under the front lifting point.

When changing oil on a Honda it is recommended to replace the drain plug washer every oil change - every 2 or 3 is fine as long as the plug is not over-tightened. Most dealers will give you the $0.20 washer with the purchase of an oil filter.

I just thought of something . . .There is a service bulletin on your vehicle that requires Honda to replace spark plugs, cap/rotor, oil change, check for codes, & plug wires**not sure on that. I can't remember the exact service but it happens between 75k-105K.

Holy cow Jackasssi you are good. There was such a bulletin and the last owner gave me the mail he got, and I can use it anytime I want right now, since I'm at 80k, and it's between that range you mentioned and over.
I think I may just follow through with all those solutions. I've yet to get the timeing belt changed since I can't find a local mechanic to do it cheaply. Last place I asked wanted me to pay over $400 for parts+labor. :eek2:


But once I do, I am thinking go on ebay and buy the belts and the water pump there and just pay for labor. Thinking at the same time changing the pistons from 8:8 to a 10:1 (no idea what it means, someone else mentioned it to me to increase engin output, posted a thread asking for some facts and still waiting on input).

Thank you for your tips.

Jed, if you have no idea what it means to get higher compression pistons i don't suggest you do it. That is a fairly serious modification and you should be educated in that field before you venture in that direction. Not trying to be rude, i just don't want you to do it and find yourself in a whole mess of trouble, being either financial or mechanical.

for those who are wondering
5w20 places with temps rangeing from about 10 degress F or less
5w30 is for 30 degress F or less
10w30 is for anywhere from 0 to about 90F
10w40 is from 0F or more(best for hot summers)

Dang it, being poor sux! Can't do anything to my car at all! Screw it, I'm just going to an airplane junkyard and buy a jet engin and strap it to my car. Take that, Batm :evillol: an!

Jed I worked for Honda a while back.

Cheapest Honda OEM parts can be found at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com Those parts are even cheaper than I get with my discount at the Honda I worked at.

The bottom line should be keep up with regular oil changes. If you race all the time you should be changing your oil earlier than usual.

I've heard form some friend that it is not recommended to use synthetic oil on a VTEC engine, is that Right??

I have a B16A and want to know what's the better oil for my engine and if it improve performance.


Thanks.

I've heard form some friend that it is not recommended to use synthetic oil on a VTEC engine, is that Right??

I have a B16A and want to know what's the better oil for my engine and if it improve performance.


Thanks.

Not true.

1. Full synthetic
2. Synthetic blend
3. Conventional oil

Thanks Jackassi

Is that the preference order??

Is there some specific good mark (Valvoline, Castrol, Penzoil???) that you prefer or recomend??

Actually I'm using Valvoline Racing 20-50, I heard Valvoline has the sympower, It sounds like a good oil.

Yes along with order of cost.

I've always used Mobil 1 or Penzoil synthetic but they're all good brands out there. More of a personal choice.

20w50 is way to think for a small 4cylinder, it actually reduces power & doesn't protect as well. I used to run 20w50 during track session & found that thinner 10w30 improved time by a few tenths.
0w30-5w30 - year round
10w30 - summer
10w40 - high mileage / ticking engine
http://www.importreview.com/reviews/Mobil11030vsreg10-130valv.html
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-4-2.jpg

Every new motor I have ever run I changed the oil the first time @ 1000 miles and then @ 3000 miles then I switched to synthetic. As far as the brand is concerned...more or less a personal preference, but my experience in life is you get what you pay for...if you see $2.00 oil your buying just that $2.00 oil