The only thing i tried is to chang spare tire (95 camry). Now i am wondering if these two jobs too difficult for me?

1. Check rear strut mounts and replace if necessary.
2. Check engine mounts and replace if necessary.

The only tools i have are those came with the car. I don't have a garage so that i have to do it outdoor. If u feel i can diy, what tools i may need? Thanks.

you will be able to do those but u will need sumthing to hold the engine up when doing the engine mounts and teh struts u will need a jack, jack stands, wrenches, allen wrenches, and a spring compression if needed.

You can do it, although you might end up spending more money on tools than you did on parts.

You can do it, although you might end up spending more money on tools than you did on parts.

or than you would have spent on a mechanic.

Good point.

But once u learned how to do it, u know what to do if it gives u trouble later.

By the time you have to do this again, you'll have misplaced the tools and forgotten everything you learned from the first time... :)

That is probably true :-) (how do u put that smile in line with text, Brian??)
But the idea of repair myself really make me excited and i can get some very cheap tools from Ebay, e.g. coil spring compressor. Any idea where to get a torque wrench? Cost about $40 on Ebay.

I would recommend against buying a used torque wrench. They are precision instruments and can be damaged or go out of calibration.

Sears has reasonable torque wrenches. You need two, one for smaller bolts and one for larger ones.

Here are the two I would recommend. You can buy one at first if you know you will only need one range, but eventually, you will need both.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944593000

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944595000

If you are unfamiliar with torque wrenches, these are micrometer torque wrenches. With these you dial in the torque you want and they click and release slightly when you have reached the given torque. Very precise and you don't have to see them to work with them (except to set the torque). KD tools sells higher quality wrenches, but you get what you pay for.

http://www.toolsource.com/ost/results.asp?qu=torque+wrench

for example, this the wrench I bought:
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=NO+SOURCE&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=93419&mscssid=SDLXFFXEBA4K9JT17WPGL1FCWF668BM8

When you consider the cost of simple hand tools, paying $130 for a torque wrench you will use often is a bargain. The KD wrench is more accurate, and probably has a more precise ratchet (turns less between clicks on the rachet), making it a little more precise and versatile than the Sears' wrench.

Any micrometer torque wrench must be stored between uses with a very low torque setting dialed in. Otherwise the spring inside will loose its tension and the torque will change. Then you will need to get it recalibrated, but you won't know it. Treat them like a precision instrument and they will stay in calibration for a long time.

BTW, rule #1 of torquing, always torque a lubricated bolt into a clean hole.

Also, it is easy to strip the threads on a coil spring compressor, so make sure you know the quality of the compressor before you buy it used. Grease the threads to prevent their damage during use.

Smile is just colon + parentheses or semicolon + parentheses.

Good info, Brian :)
The 25-250 wrench from sears looks attractive to me. I will go and check it out. What is 3/8 or 1/2 drive? What do i need to work with the wrench? Also where can i get the lubricant used for bolt thread? Thanks.

I wouldn't get any of those cheap spring compressors off ebay...go for quality...I've snapped many many many of those compressors I bought off ebay...I don't even mess w/ em anymore...ohh and if you do decide to get coil compressors, it's a pain without air tools...just something to think about

Good info, Brian :)
The 25-250 wrench from sears looks attractive to me. I will go and check it out. What is 3/8 or 1/2 drive? What do i need to work with the wrench? Also where can i get the lubricant used for bolt thread? Thanks.

The two I picked overlap. If you get a 25-250, you will not have a torque wrench around 20-25 ftlbs - which is a very useful range. The little wrench stops at 250 inlbs which is a little over 20 ftlbs. You have to overlap your wrenches. You probably will never use over 150 ftlbs anyway.

The 3/8 and 1/2" drives refer to the square fitting that fits in sockets. 1/2" is the most you will need. Get adapters so you can use all the sockets with either wrench. Smaller sockets are generally 3/8" drive and larger are 1/2" drive. They go to 1" or larger for big sockets.

Usually engine oil is used to lubricate bolt threads unless they are going into aluminum, then you need antiseize compound.

The Haynes Manual turns out useless when come to details. I try to access the rear strut mount. I was able to pull out rear seat cushion and take off the shoulder bolster bolt. It still won't come off then use my strength and end up damage the plastic clip on the shoulder bolster. (on Figure 20.6, it did not show there is a platic clip on the shoulder bolster at all) Now i can see the top of mounts but have no idea how to take the panel with two speakers on it off. Maybe those are just small things but when u damage something it make u feel bad :(

Look at the bright side, you've learned something already. :)

The Haynes Manual turns out useless when come to details. I try to access the rear strut mount. I was able to pull out rear seat cushion and take off the shoulder bolster bolt. It still won't come off then use my strength and end up damage the plastic clip on the shoulder bolster. (on Figure 20.6, it did not show there is a platic clip on the shoulder bolster at all) Now i can see the top of mounts but have no idea how to take the panel with two speakers on it off. Maybe those are just small things but when u damage something it make u feel bad :(

Welcome to Toyota DIY... :wink:

Since you're going to be working on your own car, may I suggest a Toyota shop manual for your car. You can probably get one new or used from Ebay a lot cheaper than the dealer.

Good luck with working on your car... :bigthumb:

Thanks guys. That is warm :)

You can lift the rear cover your speakers are attached to very carefully to allow room to work a 3/8 drive rachet to take those nuts off. It only needs to come up about 3 inches. I just completed the same project you are doing a month or so back.

You can find a local shop that will change over your springs and top strut mount to your new struts for around $30 a pair. They have the right equipment and is generally far superior to what you can rent or would want to spend on for your own spring compressor.

Thanks, GSS123. Did u get the new spring insulator (rubber under the spring)? Also i don't know if it is the strut itself or the strut mount that makes the banging noise yet. When i run over some large pit, it feels like the shock is still working. So i suspect it is the strut mounts. But i can see the strut mounts attach to the body very well (nuts are not loosed). Any idea?

I replaced all and I mean all rubber except the rubber bumper that fits around chrome shaft of strut. This was in good shape. I also replaced all strut towers. I did find my strut towers were in pretty good shape and could have lasted a while longer. But once in I go all the way. The banging noise I found came from the one of the rear struts being totally shot. The previous owner had a large national muffler and brake shop put some of their premium brand struts on. They lasted less than 60,000 miles. I have a copy of the work order to verify this. I used OEM parts since I plan to keep this car for many years.

Don't forget you will need a tire alingment when done.

You replace two or only one strut? Did u do the spring compression yourself? Is it hard? where did u get the parts and What is the total cost ?

Always replace struts in pairs. No, I had a local mechanic shop change over the springs. One shop did the rears for $15 a pair. They couldn't do the front ones so I had another shop do those for $30 a pair. If you go OEM with new rubber, struts and strut towers you can plan on $400 plus for the back and another $400 plus for the front just in parts.

lol, they are expensive. So did u drive the car to the shop or u took the struts off and tool them to the shop?

I replaced all and I mean all rubber except the rubber bumper that fits around chrome shaft of strut. This was in good shape. I also replaced all strut towers. I did find my strut towers were in pretty good shape and could have lasted a while longer. But once in I go all the way. The banging noise I found came from the one of the rear struts being totally shot. The previous owner had a large national muffler and brake shop put some of their premium brand struts on. They lasted less than 60,000 miles. I have a copy of the work order to verify this. I used OEM parts since I plan to keep this car for many years.

Don't forget you will need a tire alingment when done.

What are these rubbers called? I want to shop online but I have difficulty to find them.

Upper and Lower strut insulators...

if the spring compressor is not done right it will take u head off. lot of compression. not a real good diy job mrtwo. u should b careful. lifting engine take lot of work 2. hard job.

Scary. Thanks for the reminder. What do u think is good diy?

Welcome to Toyota DIY... :wink:

Since you're going to be working on your own car, may I suggest a Toyota shop manual for your car. You can probably get one new or used from Ebay a lot cheaper than the dealer.

Good luck with working on your car... :bigthumb:

I found on Ebay "a backup CD of Factory Service Manual for ALL TYPES OF 1994 CAMRY. It is the same one used by Toyota technicians and dealers". How are those CD?

I bought one of those CDs quite some time ago, and they are complete and total shite. Do not buy them. The one that I managed to buy, I paid way too much for it and it didn't even work when I got it, and when I tried to return it, I couldn't. It's a bitch. Don't buy them, buy something legit.