what swap for 94 integra

hey i need help.. i have a 94 integra ls and it has no motor.. and i am wondering what motor would be the best for it.. i was thinking h22a but that will be expensive because i have to buy modified axles and motor mounts. then i was thinking b16a hydralic.. but is that going to be really weak? other wise i would go with the b18 gsr. does anyone know what the b16a and the b18c will run in a quarter mile in the integra. if anyone has any pointers please let me know. thanks

hey i need help.. i have a 94 integra ls and it has no motor.. and i am wondering what motor would be the best for it.. i was thinking h22a but that will be expensive because i have to buy modified axles and motor mounts. then i was thinking b16a hydralic.. but is that going to be really weak? other wise i would go with the b18 gsr. does anyone know what the b16a and the b18c will run in a quarter mile in the integra. if anyone has any pointers please let me know. thanks

Between those 2, I'd stick with a B18C1 or B18B1 for a teg. Between the B16A and B18C1, I'd go for the GSR (or the JDM SiR B18C) in the Teg. You'll appericate the little bit of added Torque.

GSR best bet outta them.
B16a will leave you dead in normal driving with its lack of low end esp in a heavier teg.
but LS would be OK

go with the b18c1 GSR all the way, its the best engine for that particulat vehicle..well besides the b18c5 but thats more expensive than the others of course, prolly out of your range....GSR MAN youll be happier in the long run

thanks guys..so b16 is out i thought it would be likd driving a normal car.. but i went to japanmotorimport.com and it has a h22a for 1900 dollars and the gsr is 2800 now with shipping the gsr would cost around 3000 and thats a direct bolt in am i right. and the h22a it would cost around the same if i got it for 1900 plus shipping plus modified axle, mounts and wire harness. right? or is there more modified things i need to buy.. if not. and they would cost around the same what do you think is better. thanks alot guys your really helping me out :)

I would stick with the gsr. I have herd a lot of bad stories about h22 swaps. They are a bit heavy for the teg. At the same time there are alot of people who have done h22 swaps and it turned out great, you just have to do it right. I would recomend getting the gsr. Easier to do. Better still get a b18c5 usdm type R motor or the j-spec b18c. But between the options you gave definetly go with the b18c1 gsr motor.

go GSR, the H22 is heavier and will throw your handleing off...hints why you dont see H22's all over the place.. Go B18C1 !! The H22 also will give you alot more headaches for the install and you have more options with the b series than the H series motor as well... GSR=happiness all others=regret

go GSR, the H22 is heavier and will throw your handleing off...hints why you dont see H22's all over the place.. Go B18C1 !! The H22 also will give you alot more headaches for the install and you have more options with the b series than the H series motor as well... GSR=happiness all others=regret

Well, not all others = regret. If he wants forced induction and doesn't want to built up all the internals, etc...the B18B1 would be a great choice. He can go 12psi safely with the B18B1 on stock internals when tuned properly, which is more than the others can usually handle on stock internals. That can be upwards of 250-275HP (I do realize there are lots of varying factors).

Of course, he never mentioned boost. If he want's N/A, the GSR is choice I would make out of all these motors. He can always boost it later on if he changes his mind. It may not be able to handle 12psi on stock internals like the LS, but 8psi on that motor would most likely be more than enough to keep him happy. After all, the power output still is going to be fairly good in that case, and it will give it a better n/a motor in case he never opts for boost.

of course ....that statement was based on not wanting to go F/I and not in the price range for a C5

of course ....that statement was based on not wanting to go F/I and not in the price range for a C5

I figured as much, lol. I just wanted to add that just in case. I was pretty you knew all that, but I figured since he is asking the questions, play it safe and add share a little bit of knowledge he might not have, in regarts to motor choices and benifits for n/a and f/i.

i expect nothing less

Why hasnt anyone mentioned the LSVTEC???? It will give you more power than a GSR because it is actually a bigger Motor. The GSR is better in the long run, however, because of the built internals. The LS VTEC is the best bang for the buck because of the cost associated with the GSR. The H22 is definitely a headache, and I would not suggest this unless you want more stress in your life. check out www.kmodifiedracing.com, they have really good prices on swaps, and if you are in the Jersey area, they have good labor prices too.

Why hasnt anyone mentioned the LSVTEC???? It will give you more power than a GSR because it is actually a bigger Motor. The GSR is better in the long run, however, because of the built internals. The LS VTEC is the best bang for the buck because of the cost associated with the GSR. The H22 is definitely a headache, and I would not suggest this unless you want more stress in your life. check out www.kmodifiedracing.com, they have really good prices on swaps, and if you are in the Jersey area, they have good labor prices too.

I didn't mention the LS/Vtec, though I could have. He has no motor to begin with, so he'd need the LS Shortblock, B16A/type-r/GSR head, plsu tranny, ecu...motor assembled, all installed, etc. Still though, if you go the LS/Vtec route, don't over-rev it just because you haver Vtec...the head maybe have come from a motor with a 7800-8000 redline, but the block is still B18B1, a motor that was designed for around a 6800-7000 redline. If you rev the LS/Vtec much past 7000rpm, you'll cause problems as the block wasn't designed for it...that's where a lot of the "LS/Vtec's are unrealiable" stories come from. People think, "yea, I got vtec" and rev the heck out of it, past 7000rpm...over-reving it as a result. If he takes his time to build it correct and doesn't over-rev it, it can be a good set-up.

i'd either go with b18c1 or ls/vtec.

although i'm somewhat against it, go h22 if you have the time, money, and patience. dropping an h22 will not necessarily equal lack of handling, they can actually be made to handle the same, if not better than any b series swap. Like i said, time...money..and patience..

:2cents:

go with B18C1!!!!