Hope all bears with me on this and if anyone can give pointers to problem areas or questions it would be much appreciated by yours truly.

I am having starting problems with the 350 engine. When cold it is very hard to start and sounds like it is so far out of time as to try and run backwards with the knocking noises. Once started, it will run and start fine throughout the day until it cools off, then a repeat performance of bad act up.

I have tried adjusting the timing (unplugged the ECM harness first) but does not seem to help. It has the computerized Rochester carb, (unhappy daze) the first thing I noticed on it was the lack of adjustment points.

Present mileage with the 3.7:1 F&R differentials, manuals hubs and in 2WD is around 11-12 MPG hwy. I would like to change over to an across the counter Edelbrock carb, but have been told with the 4 speed auto tranny it won't shift right and the present distributor will not work as no vacuum advance.

As stated, any suggestions from those more knowledgeable than I, and I would be most grateful for your help.

Stonewall2

I would get it to top dead center on #1 and try to scratch time it again. Kinda sounds like a timing prob to me.

I would get it to top dead center on #1 and try to scratch time it again. Kinda sounds like a timing prob to me.

That thought has crossed my mind also, but the circumstances are strange.

After all the knocking & rough running to get started, once running, even for a few seconds, it will then restart and run fine with nary a problem. This it will continue to do repeatedly throughout the day until it sets for several hours, and then, a repeat performance.

I lean toward thinking once started the computer keeps things in memory to compensate for a while, or it could be the computer creating the problem to begin with. I am sure someone has the answer, but I sure don't, for it is so weird as to parameters of the problem.

But in any case, without more to go on, I will likely be giving your suggestion a try.

put a vacuum guage on it and check the vacuum. unplug the coolant temp sensor and try starting it. plug the line to the charcoal cannister from the bottom of the carb and try starting it. look inside the distributor cap for any hairline cracks or build up on the posts. look under the hood at nite for spark leaks. check the center button iside the distributor cap and make sure it is not broken.

It could be the quadrajet carb. They were notorious for having the well plugs inside leak fuel into the intake after sitting long periods and flood the engine creating hard starting and rough running when first started. We used to epoxy the plugs when we rebuilt the carbs to eliminate it. It has been a long time since I have worked on one.

you have the 700r4 tranny auto not the muncie i assume? If so, scrap all the computer junk and get the edelbrock 1406. I have it on mine, the thing about the tranny shifting is simple. Instead of being electronically controlled, it needs to be manually controlled. It is a wire that attaches to the carb and shifts the tranny based on throttle position. You need to take it to a tranny shop, unless you know what you are looking for in the shifting. It shifts like a dream. Do regret not having my turbo 400 though :/ But the 1406 carb is way easier to tune, it sounds like what you have is all carb issues. My two cents~

I have swapped mine out for non eletrics like that. You can swap out the distributor for a regular vaccum advance, swap carb out for either older style q-jet or Edelbrock just remember to get a throttle linkage bracket for the 700r4 t.v. cable that works on the carb of choice. The q-jet, if for an auto tranny will work without it. But the Holley's and Edelbrock's have to have an adaptor type bracket to control the t.v. cable properly. Also something to keep in mind, if you change all these parts out to remove the electronics, the 700r4 will not lock up unless rewired for manual control, meaning its not controlled by the electronics anymore.

I have swapped mine out for non eletrics like that. You can swap out the distributor for a regular vaccum advance, swap carb out for either older style q-jet or Edelbrock just remember to get a throttle linkage bracket for the 700r4 t.v. cable that works on the carb of choice. The q-jet, if for an auto tranny will work without it. But the Holley's and Edelbrock's have to have an adaptor type bracket to control the t.v. cable properly. Also something to keep in mind, if you change all these parts out to remove the electronics, the 700r4 will not lock up unless rewired for manual control, meaning its not controlled by the electronics anymore.

Thanks guys for all your good input and experiences with same.

I just got back from a two week trip to the Arizona high country. The Rochester really sucked big time up there around 7400 feet. I towed the Jimmy and found it to be a can of worms, requiring the dropping of the driveline. I will give a full report of same later on an existing thread for flat towing of the K-5.

I definitely will be looking at changing out the CPU controlled garbage for the morphrodite carb/tranny shift system.

I recently put a Edlebrock carb on my Ford motor home (replacing a Holly) that I got on sale at Checkers for $124.00 and could not be more pleased with it.