i am looking at the zex and the NX kit....but i have been reading bad things about wet kits (the nx is wet)....i have been reading that since it sends in fuel and nitrous at the sametime and if the manifold is not meant to flow fuel is can cause little "puddles" and that can cause backfires.....i was just wondering if anyone had expirience with dry or wet kits....because i plan to buy one of these kits very soon and need some advice on which one to get....oh and one more thing...you think i am going to outgrow a zex kit???

go with a wet kit for the most power per dollar....I outgrew my zex kit in 5 minutes...

why did you outgrow it??? have you had a wet kit?? i am worried about the backfiring...is this really common....is there anyway to eliminate this???

becasue it gave me like 15whp with the 75 shot jets.

My buddy had a wet kit(NOS direct port)and that thing hauled ass at the 80shot jetting...

if u want more power go with the wet kit. if u want most used go with the wet kit. the wet kit is actually better than the dry kit. zex isnt exactly the best choice either...id go with nx

i was thinking the NX kit to but what is making me nervous is the NOS website....they make a dry and wet kit but they only suggest the wet kit when you have forced induction....they also say modern EFI intake manifolds are not meant to flow fuel so "wet" kits are not a good idea because of nitrous backfire.....what do you think of this?? it seems alot people like wet kits and alot of other people like dry kits....you think wet kits are just as safe????

u want safe then go with venom or some other computer controlled n20 injection, u wnat to live on the edge get nx :D (i dont really know if wet kits r gonna mess up ur manifold, i doubt it will though...mayb that 100 shot n2o mite :eek: )

live on the edge??? uh oh your making me nervous :) you telling me its not safe....well there stage one kit (30,50,70) is what i am looking at....it is a wet kit but seems pretty good...i have heard the venom kit is bad because something about the fuel device it comes with seems to fail or somehow not work right in some cases...i read it but i can't remember all the details...the nx kit should be fine at 70 right??? :)

yea. u should probably go with the stage one just to be safe. thats what im gonna do :D

wait...what engine setup do u hav first?

i have a b16 with intake, header, straight pipe (no cat) msd ignition and wires, apexi VAFC, and soon to be installed are a B&M commandflo and a holley intank fuel pump and and aem fuel rail....now i am thinking of buying some JE pistons as well but we will see...for now stock block....

i have been reading that since it sends in fuel and nitrous at the sametime and if the manifold is not meant to flow fuel is can cause little "puddles" and that can cause backfires
i beleive that you are mistaken on this......Manifolds are meant to flow fuel....fuel and air mixture...correct.....isn't a wet kit just simply shooting the N2O in with the fuel instead of with the air?

yeah the manifold is meant to flow air not fuel thats why it can sometimes create the "puddles" i was talking about......"This type of system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications. The reason for this isthe fact that fuel flows differently than air or nitrous. The difference in flow characteristics can lead to distribution problems and, in some cases, intake backfires. Intakes designed for wet flow (such as with carburetors) cause much less separation of the nitrous/air and fuel. Because modern fuel injections intakes are designed to flow air only, they have tighter turns and more compact design as a result. Thus, they genreally do not make a good canidates for wet flow nitrous systems."

wooooo...i had to type that whole thing because my copy and paste wasn't working....the link for the whole page on dry/wet/direct port is here....http://www.sverrekahrsracing.no/lystgass/dry-wet/dry-vs-wet.htm

Try the new NOS direct port setup. NO drilling required. It's an adapter that sits in your injector bungs and then you install the injectors on top of the nozzles....costs 1500 bucks, but is well worth it if you can't take off your manifold to drill

1500 is a little hefty for a little bit more i could get a used turbo kit...i would rather spend around 500 for the nitrous kit....so after reading that article you think i should get the wet kit??? is there anyway to reduce the chance of a backfire???

pvang why would there be any reason a person couldn't take off their manifold 1500 is too steep for me

I thought the NOS direct port kit was only around $600, not having to drill isn't worth that much more

not a lot of people can take off an intake manifold. Trust me, I've seen some things in this business that makes me embarassed to say I'm a honda guy....that's why.

Wet kit. I don't know where you got the idea that a dry kit is safer than a wet kit. Unless you're using a single fogger placed in the intake tract, which isn't the most common setup for a wet kit anyways, you really don't need to worry about backfires. The NX kit is a direct port, where 4 nozzles are added to each of the individual runners in the manifold. A backfire would never even see it's way into the plenum. On the other hand, with a dry kit, you're always running several risks. First of all, because it's sprayed in the intake tract, you could end up with uneven mixtures in the cylinders. Secondly, a dry kit is limited by your stock fuel delivery system. You know that myth about nitrous blowing motors? Those are the people who squeeze too much without adequate fuel enrichment. You're always running into the risk of that with a dry kit. (Although most dry kits come with rather conservative jetting to prevent it. The Zex comes with jets up to 75 shot and the NOS kit comes with jets up to 80 shot. Anything higher than that is a special order.) With a wet kit, you tap into the fuel line directly and, because the fuel is mixed with the nitrous at the time of jetting, are guaranteed a safe mixture. Because most wet kits are either plate or direct port, each runner will have it's own jet, ensuring that an even amount will be distributed to each cylinder. For serious, safe, and sane power, you really want to look at a wet setup. On the other hand, if you're just tinkering for a little more power and don't want the hassle of having to add a plate or drill and tap your manifold, then a dry kit may be more up your alley. Either way, a dry kit will NEVER be safer than a wet kit.

Originally posted by white97ex

i beleive that you are mistaken on this......Manifolds are meant to flow fuel....fuel and air mixture...correct.....isn't a wet kit just simply shooting the N2O in with the fuel instead of with the air?

Not really. Once upon a time, when cars were carburated, that was true, but we now run on dry plenums with multi port sequential fuel injected systems like those found in Hondas.

actually it is a single fogger nozzle system because its not the direct port kit i am looking at its the stage 1 kit....(35-50-75) so your saying i should worry about backfires now??? i asked someone at a speedshop and they said that as long as its activated at wide open throttle i don;t have to worry about it....i would think the "wet" style kits would be safer but this nitrous backfire is making me nervous....if this backfire happens what kind of damage does this do???

A backfire with a single wet fogger in the intake tract will do damage up to the point where the nozzle is mounted. (For instance, if it's mounted 1 ft from the throttle body, the backfire will roast the runners, the plenum, the throttle body, 1 ft of the intake, and all the gaskets along the way. The amount of damage in question is unpredictable. It could just leave carbon deposits, or it could crack the manifold/TB/intake.) If you're going to go wet kit, you're better off with a kit that sprays in the runners, or as close to the head as possible. Then again, to play devil's advocate, backfires in modern Japanese imports really aren't a common phenomenon and I've personally never heard of one. If you're going to tap a small (80 or less) shot into the intake on a relatively stock motor, go with a dry kit. But for larger shots or forced induction applications, go wet. Even if it's a single wet fogger. Better to replace a manifold than a block and/or head. A severe lean condition with all that extra oxygen is nothing to laugh at...

cool thanks for the info....let me ask a question since you seem to know whats up.....is there anyway to prevent the backfires??? and also do you know what causes them exactly???

Originally posted by phattycrx
cool thanks for the info....let me ask a question since you seem to know whats up.....is there anyway to prevent the backfires??? and also do you know what causes them exactly???

I seriously doubt you're going to see a backfire in your small-displacement inline-4 fuel injected motor. That was more of a prevalant problem in the old days with carburated engines that had overly rich mixtures in wet manifolds. With the introduction of fuel injection and dry manifolds, you've got individual fuel delivery in each of the runners providing proper fuel to each of the cylinders. If one cylinder runs lean, an individual injector can lay in additional duty cycle to compensate without affecting the mixture in the other cylinders. With a carburated setup, if one cylinder ran lean, you would have to richen up the mixture in the carb to compensate, running all the other cylinders rich. With that kind of mixture, a hot spot or pre-ignition would light up the mixture at the wrong moment, resulting in a backfire. Add in sequential fire to fuel injection, which only fires an individual injector during the intake cycle of a motor, and the likelihood of a backfire is almost nil. You would sooner run into pre-ignition or detonation. One of the only probably causes would be if you run overly rich and have excessively advanced or retarded ignition timing to really heat up the inside of those cylinders/pistons. Since nitrous grossly leans out your mixture, I don't think that a backfire will be your primary problem. I would worry more about a lean condition...

cool....nice info.... i FINALLY got a chance to talk to my mechanic because hes been real busy lately and i have decided to go with the ZEX kit...because his friend Jeff Hill has an eclipse that runs 10.0's on radials and he used NOS and then went to zex and he likes it a lot better....His car was just in turbo magazine and he has his own shop near me....thanks for all the info on the wet kit....help me make a decision....peace:D