1999 Suburban wont start

04-23-2004, 11:29 PM
For the second time my Suburban has reared this agrivating problem on me, and I am hoping that one of you can help me solve this problem.

This evening my wife was out shopping, and the vehicle was running fine. She parked the truck went into the store for about an hour when she returns it will not start. It will turn over fine, so there is no problem with the battery. It acts like it is getting no fire.

The previous time that this happened, I had it towed in and the tech put it on the diagnostic system. They said that they had to enter a security code to reset the security system. They said they called the local dealer, and got the code to get it running again. They also said that it was probably do to an aftermarket ignition key that kicked in the system (I think they were full of crap). When I got home from the repair shop, I spoke to a neighbor that owns a 99 Sub. also, and he said that it has happened to him also, and that if the vehicle sets for 15 minutes to and hour that it will restart.

I would like to avoid donating another $200 to my local mechanic. Is there a way to bypass the security system in this vehicle? Are there possibly some relays in the security system that can go bad ? Where is the security box located in this vehicle?


04-24-2004, 12:50 AM
It could be a myraid of things causing your problem, including the security system. GM uses a passive security system on your suburban which basically reads a specific resistance from the ignition lock and key, telling the ECM its ok to keep going. You didn't specify how far you wife drove, by my understanding is the system will engage rather quickly, if not immediately, so i doubt your problem was caused by the key. The security system itself may be faulty. If you have an original key forthe truck, try it and see if the problem repeats itself. You can them at least rule out the key.

You didn't say if the ignition lights came on before you turned it over. GM has a side post battery that uses 2 heavy copper wires, one for the starter and one for the rest of the car. I had the opposite problem with mine. Intermittently the Ignition came on but wouldn't turn over. replaced the starter and the battery, only to find later that the bolt that holds the cables to the battery had burned avay, leaving the cables connected, but no juice to the starter. You could check that. It'll cost $2 to fix.

Lastly, see if you can duplicate the condition in you driveway. Start and run it a few times. If you do get it to do it. get a timing light and see if you have spark, trace the problem from there. if you have spark, there is not fuel. check for pressure at the injectors, you may have a bad fuel pump.

04-24-2004, 09:42 AM
Thanks for the reply... I am going to go to my local Chevrolet Dealer today, and get another key made today to see if this will solve the problem. Right now it is siting in a friends driveway, and I need to get it out of their way.

I have been reading several bulletin boards trying to see if anyone else has had this problem, and on one the posts someone mentioned that there is a valet switch in this vehicle? Is this true ?

05-03-2004, 02:57 AM
I've seen this same problem, and it was the security system. The system disables the ignition so the engine won't start. You can correct the problem by pushing the reset button behind the flashing security light, mounted on the driver side of the dash. My son paid $200 to the Chevy dealer to do this, then I told him how to correct it, and they refunded him his money. It's a shame they don't tell the customers the truth.

05-08-2004, 09:27 PM
Hmmm, i would lok at the security system or Fuel pump.

my wife had the same issue. she would drive all day and when she went to crank it up it wouldnt start.

the fuel pump ended up being the culprit. i had never seen a fuel pump with a mind of its own, i figured it would have cut off while running but as long as it was running it was fine,

When we would attempt to crank it up i noticed that i could hear it building up pressure and so $328 later it hasnt done it since.

Ronnie White
05-10-2004, 06:26 PM
I am having a similar problem and was told today that it is the passlock sensor in the colom and will be $820.00 to fix. It seems to be worse if it sits for long periods of time and then if you try and start it cranks right up and dies imediately. Sometimes it only does it for a few times and then cranks and sometimes it never cranks. Then you let it sit for an hour or so it cranks right up. Any ideas?

05-29-2004, 01:35 PM
I had my truck towed into the dealership the first time this happened to me. Of course when it got there it started. They kept it and inspected it(supposedly) when I got there to pick it up they gave me this bullshit story about it having loose wiring and they tightened them. I never had this many problems and as many runaround answers from dealer service centers with my nissan's.

Have been unable to isolate the problem. Have been frusterated beyond belief.

by the way, the fuel pump was replaced the day after i bought the truck.

06-27-2004, 01:38 AM
"This evening my wife was out shopping, and the vehicle was running fine. She parked the truck went into the store for about an hour when she returns it will not start. It will turn over fine, so there is no problem with the battery. It acts like it is getting no fire."
We've had this happen twice with our 1999 C2500. First time I towed her home with my Toyota (a truck that will never die) and when we got home she fired it right up. Today it happened again while she was at the store and she decided to shop some more, then came back a 1/2 hour later and it fired right up. My guess is the passlock system is hosing us up and not a fuel pump.
I'm sure we'll get more opportunities to figure it out. Seems like Ford and Chevy can't make anything worth a damn.
I'll keep my 17 year old Toyota whose history of trouble is two water pumps, whoopee.

07-08-2004, 11:31 AM
I had a warm start problem with my 98 7.4L. It would cold start fine, it would immediately restart fine (up to 15-20 min. later), but after an hour of sitting, it would crank and crank. Problem turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. The diaphram had a small hole in it allowing it to slowly bleed the system fuel pressure into the intake manifold. The result was that after sitting for 45 min or so, the engine was flooded, and there was no fuel pressure in the line. I don't know if this is the same as the problem some of you are having, but it may be worth checking out.

07-12-2004, 11:52 PM
Problem solved. My problem actually was the fuel pump. Had to get an Airtex pump (also the best deal). For me it was a pain in the arse to change. In all I squandered about $350. Pump alone was $275.

09-06-2004, 11:35 AM
I don't have a "reset" on the Driver side panel. How do you access this switch, from behind panel? And does this resolve (albeit temporarily) the start-stall problem created by the Pass Key system?

09-12-2004, 11:27 AM
I have had this problem occurring for that last 6 months where the
car will not start. The engine wants to turn, but will not run.
I called the GM hot line and they told me to turn the key on for 20 minutes
to reset the antitheft mechanism?
I have since brought it to a mechanic and they said the pass lock sensor was
bad and replaced the key cylinder in the steering column.
What is the problem, are there service bulletins on this subject?
I'm not sure my mechanic know what it is either.

I'm also curious about the switch or button your refer to.
where is it exactly, behind the dash?

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