Car won't start

An friend of mine has a 92 Camry. He said last week it died and wouldn't start. It had been running all week and when he went to leave the gas bar it stalled and wouldn't start. The mechanic said he needed a new distributor at a cost of almost four hundred bucks. He drove a couple hundred miles and the next day he went to start it he couldn't. He said it is doing the same thing before. I am the one going to be looking at it cause I know a little bit about cars. How can I test the distributor? What else (besides the timing) can I look at?
Much appreciated.

What engine?

Four cyl I think. I will ask!

Yes four but I am not sure if it is a 2L or 1.8L or if there various displacements for 1992 models.

2.2 L

Not starting means that it cranks ok, but never runs? or just sits and never even cranks?

Oh yes, it cranks but does not start. I was just wondering if this is a common problem. It was running fine and the next time he went to start it it wouldn't start but it would crank. Would there be something causing the distributor to burn up or stop working?

It sounds like it could be the ignitor.

Where is the ignitor in the car?

When it won't start. First check spark at the distributer from the coil. Crank holding coil wire 1/2 inch from ground

If you have spark, scope it to make sure it is adequate in voltage and correctly timed. Low voltage is coil, timing is adjustable.

If no spark, check power to coil and igniter. With ignition switch on, check that there is battery voltage at ignition coil (+) terminal.

If there is battery voltage (should be), check resistance of coil

cold
Primary (+ to -) 0.36 - 0.55 ohms
Secondary (+ to high tension) 9.0 - 15.4 kohms

hot
Primary 0.45 - 0.65 ohms
Secondary 11.4 - 18.1 kohms
If bad, replace coil

If the coil is good, check resistance of signal generator (pickup coil)

cold 135 - 220 ohms
hot 175 - 255 ohms
If bad replace distributor housing assembly

If good, check resistance of crankshaft position sensor
cold 985 - 1600 ohms
hot 1265 - 1890 ohms

If bad, replace
If good, check air gap of distributor 0.2 - 0.4 mm (0.008 - 0.016")

If bad, replace distributor housing assembly
If good, check IGT signal from ECM

If bad, check wiring between ECM, distributor and igniter, then try another ECM if possible

If good, try another igniter. Ignitor is next to coil on the driver-side strut tower. Says "Toyota ignitor" on it.

Thanks I will check it out!

I have the same problem. How much should a shop charge to fi?

Depends on the time necessary for troubleshooting and the cost of the parts. Distributor is expensive. ECM is expensive.

also check to see if the 30amp engine fuse is blown, if it is replace the condensor inside the distributor