no kidding it's a mod. it's a cheap mod that every lil weenie who saw fast and furious thinks they can use to turn an econobox into a street racer. under certain conditions use of nitrous is fine, but not if it's your one and only go fast mod, and you think you drive a hotrod because of it.

I see what you're saying, but it's the same with a turbo. Slapping a turbo on a 16 second "econobox" won't make you drive a hotrod either. Now you're just driving a 15 second econobox that is still slow and pathetic. Not doing any additional mods, you'll gain about the same amount of hp from both. And neither one deserves anymore respect than the other if that's all you've done.

I couldn't agree more. there's an oz Mitsubishi lancer at my school with a non-intercooled supercharger on it and a fartcan muffler and it's definitely still doo-doo slow. i can't say for sure personally but i've spoken with kids who say it still can't break out of the 15's.

I certainly hope my Lancer can break into the 13's :p

I certainly hope my Lancer can break into the 13's :p

any car is physically capable of 13's, it just depends on how much you are willing to spend. get a bolt on turbo, some slicks, tune the little bitch with enough fuel........easy

any car is physically capable of 13's, it just depends on how much you are willing to spend. get a bolt on turbo, some slicks, tune the little bitch with enough fuel........easy
I'm talking about stock. I own a Lancer Evolution 8.

in that case if you cant get a lancer into 13.8's then someone else should drive the car, no offense intended. i dont mean to talk about neons since no one likes them buuuuuuuut, stock srt-4s run 13.8 and thats an fwd.

I forgot to add to the old thread how much I paid for my Edelbrock dry nitrous setup. I bought the kit for a little over $600 (Jets included, 80-100-125). Anyways, professionally installed it costed me $350. Basically I paid about $1000 total. Mind you that that isn't a direct port wet nitrous system setup, which typically costs quite a bit more. The downfall to nitrous setups is that the power delivery is said to be somewhat instantaneous, instead of linear. That can lead to alot of drivetrain stress. All around though, it's cheap power, except in the long run (Fill ups become commmon, and I was paying about $35 to fill everytime).

You know, there is such a thing called "multi-stage nitrous" you know?

well since everyone else has put their remarks on what they think of nitrous, i will to. I think unless you've got your car into a respectable 1/4 mile time(i.e. 14 seconds or less), there's no point in using nitrous. All your doing is adding stress to an engine that can't handle it. I'm sure there are maybe 4 or 5 of you out there who know how to install and use it properly, but i guarantee you the majority of the populace hasn't a clue. However, there is tuning skill required yet if you want to install nitrous :eek: Forged pistons, forged crank, upgraded fuel system, upgraded engine management system. There's a difference between tuners, and cheaters. cheaters get that 5 weeks of extra performance, while tuners get years of performance.

Here's my post that may have gotten buried from the previous thread...

...Nitrous is cheating if it's against the rules of whatever organization you're running in. If your car is not racing competitively in an organized sanctioning body that specifically prohibits its use, then I see no problem with it.

I personally would never run nitrous because I don't go to the drag strip often enough where it would be worth the expense, and it's banned in virtually all forms of circuit racing as a legitimate safety hazard (running car into wall = nitrous system cracked + spark = not good).

As far as it being difficult to hide, there have been some NHRA teams where Nitrous is illegal, not too long ago that got lifetime bans for running nitrous, and they weren't found in tech inspection. There are sone VERY creative ways to hide the bottle, plumbing, and injection systems.

The downfall to nitrous setups is that the power delivery is said to be somewhat instantaneous, instead of linear.

I don't call that a downfall. I can beat cars with more power than me because I have instant power while they're still spooling.

I think the bottle running empty is the ONLY bad side to nitrous. Other than that it does everything a turbo, SC, or N/A setup will do, but does it better and for less money.

Amen, brother...

Blech you guys are a bunch of amateurs. Nitorus this, turbo that blah blah....



I can get my car to run 11 without spending any money on mods, without sacrificing reliability and getting better gas mileage.






















Its called driving downhill. :icon16:

Blech you guys are a bunch of amateurs. Nitorus this, turbo that blah blah....



I can get my car to run 11 without spending any money on mods, without sacrificing reliability and getting better gas mileage.






















Its called driving downhill. :icon16:
:rofl: :lol: :lol:

in that case if you cant get a lancer into 13.8's then someone else should drive the car, no offense intended. i dont mean to talk about neons since no one likes them buuuuuuuut, stock srt-4s run 13.8 and thats an fwd.
I DO belive he was joking...


Any competent driver can get an EVO 8 into the 13's without much effort. It's simple: Dump the clutch at 5000 rpm, mash the throttle to the floor, shift at the rev limiter, and repeat!!

J/K.


Man, I want an Evo. :mad:

I don't call that a downfall. I can beat cars with more power than me because I have instant power while they're still spooling.

I think the bottle running empty is the ONLY bad side to nitrous. Other than that it does everything a turbo, SC, or N/A setup will do, but does it better and for less money.

The bottle running empty and the length of time you can use it whereas turbo's and superchargers don't have this problem. When their power is delivered its there to stay.

ok for the engines that are already built and that can handle a nazzzzzz set up and turbo set up go for it, its only going to help the situation but for those motors that are stock and NOT BUILT and they slap it on expecting to run miracles (sp) but instead finding out they need a miracle(sp) when they get the repair bill on their fast for a second motor :screwy: , try again.

My thoughts, folks:
Nitrous is just a power adder, just the same as anything else. And it has it risks like anything else, as noted previously stock motors will generally take a 50% power increase before strength margin is overwhelmed. There are some exceptions, most notably the late '80's/early '90's 5.0 HO motors (they came with forged pistons), but that is a general rule. It can make your car much faster but it has the most value for motors that are already very modified. For example, a 351-C v-8 with forged crank, h-beam rods, and forged pistons will hit around 450 hp N/A. However, the strength margins are still excellent at this power level, so it is perfectly plausible to add a 200 hp shot to see much faster 1/4 mile times. Nothing is going to break provided it is setup right! That is where the real value of nitrous is, taking a high 10's machine and dipping it into the 9's. No doubt, there are problems too like having to fill the bottle but up-front it is cheaper than a forced induction kit.
And for the record - Nitrous oxide is not flammable, it is an oxidizer that just causes run-away combustion (ie explosion) of stuff like fuel.
Good luck and hit the "go" button.

And for the record - Nitrous oxide is not flammable, it is an oxidizer that just causes run-away combustion (ie explosion) of stuff like fuel.
Good luck and hit the "go" button.

Heh. Ya got that almost right.. :D Not runaway combustion, just MORE of it in the same space.
Nitrous isn't flammable while it's in the bottle or lines(regardless of what people may have seen in that ficticious movie), it's only at 565 degrees F (inside the combustion chamber-heat is a catalyst for any chemical reaction) that it breaks down into nitrogen and oxygen. The oxygen is about 20% purer than atmospheric oxygen-which by itself supports combustion, but is not that flammable alone. The idea is that that extra oxygen enables the addition of more fuel at the same time(keeping that ideal 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio)-basically making a 'bigger bomb' in the same space (which increases the compression ratio-as does the inert nitrogen, which acts as a space-filler), this is one reason that you need to beef up the bottom end when you run nitrous..Higher compression ratios can trash an unmodified bottom end fairly quickly.

The "engine-melting' people refer to is the result of not maintaining that 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio...Ever have an oxygen sensor go bad and lean the mixture out so bad that you can read by the light of your exhaust header? Same thing happens when you add nitrous to an unmodified engine-all that extra O2 without the corresponding fuel addition just leans out the mix and makes the engine perform worse. High compression increases the tendency to detonate-(that 'marble in a coffee can' noise) which can blow holes in pistons-you have to retard the ignition timing to run nitrous to prevent detonation-otherwise known as 'severe spark-knock' ).
I've seen several of the local townies burn up engines that didn't have the correct setup-or a larger cooling system/oiling system to dissipate the excess heat.
"Man, that NAWS is dangerous stuff", they say...No it's not-they just did it wrong.
Nitrous is not magic...it's pure physics, plain and simple.
Then, if they happen to do it right and run too big a shot-(Ya gotta remember-drag racers who compete for the bucks usually yank out an engine right after a run and rebuild it-not something the average townie would or usually is able to do-There is the matter of the stresses involved in running an engine past it's limits-that generates a lot of heat as well. Over-revving does it's share of wear damage. (remember that alla you guys that get a kick out of redlining in 'park').

Done right and used right-nitrous oxide is a real ass-kicker-but it provides exactly the same power increase that would be gained from a turbo or blower, just using a cruder method.

Turbos and superchargers, in my opinion have an advantage over the bottle..They work on engine demand. If your engine already came with one-it already knows how to sense and adjust the air/fuel mixture-if it didn't come with one, then the engine/ECM has to be modified/reprogrammed so it will do the same-or the same result as running nitrous without the approriate engine mods will occur.

For some interesting reading on nitrous. check this out:

http://www.idavette.net/hib/nitrous.htm

All is fair in love, war, and .... racing. Anyone who thinks that you would get more respect out of an all motor setup is crazy. What are you going to say to a guy who is running 12's? Are you going to criticize him for squezzing? Nitrous gives you the best bang for your buck hands down. Time slips don't lie. It has been said many times so far in this forum that nitrous will harm your engine LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE unless you take the neccesary precautions. Nitrous is no more of an unfair advantage than have twice as many cylinders! But no one complains about racing v8's? I can take a slightly modded 16 second civic slap a 50 shot on it and beat a gt. I respect that not everyone wants to use nitrous, but don't lie to yourselves, nitrous is extremely potent and is a very respectable mod.

The oxygen is about 20% purer than atmospheric oxygen-which by itself supports combustion, but is not that flammable alone

Just on a side note. Oxygen is not flamable at all. There is no "not that flamable alone". Try taking a tank of oxygen, say from a welding torch, turn on just the O2, and try to light it. It won't.

Nitrous creates some crazy discussions!

I had a d15b vtec and ran a14.4 with a 55 zex shot. in my 92 sedan. i sprayed so many times. and the motor ran. It blew one day (while launching)and i hadnt sprayed in a couple of months. zex is definately safe if u ask me!