Does any one know anything about off-roading?
bluez28guy
01-10-2002, 03:39 PM
This looks like a great place for an off-road discussion but no one know what their talking about.:confused:
kicker1_solo
01-18-2003, 03:20 AM
I'd love an off-road discussion, but I guess I'm about a year too late. :(
03jeep
07-05-2003, 06:21 AM
I wheel about once a week if not more, what would you like to know?? Also if you enjoy that topic try
www.jeepsunlimited.com
www.jeepforums.com
www.midcarolinajeepers.com
Those are some pretty good websites about guys that love to wheel :bigthumb:
www.jeepsunlimited.com
www.jeepforums.com
www.midcarolinajeepers.com
Those are some pretty good websites about guys that love to wheel :bigthumb:
nerfo
09-03-2003, 05:55 PM
Four wheeling (or off roading) is a sport that has several different aspects including, but not limited to, mud, rocks, sand and all around trails that might include a little bit of everything. One of the most important things to remember though: traction is everything. Without traction, you're not going anywhere.
Depending on your financial situation, the best place to start is tires. The simplest and least expensive option is to slap the biggest tires you can on a stock rig.
If bigger tires is what you desire, a suspension or body lift would be in order. This is where things can start to get expensive. A body lift is the cheapest way to fit larger tires under a rig. A body lift is simply spacers that are inserted between the frame and the body. Also, this type of lift will not effect steering and suspension geometry. Unfortunately, ground clearance between the frame and ground remains the same.
The simplest kind of vehicle to fit with a suspension (spring) lift would be an older truck with a solid front axle with leaf springs on all four corners. These kits can be purchased for as little as three hundred dollars, but watch out. Usually low buck lifts use blocks between the rear leaf springs and the axle to achieve the desired amount of lift. Blocks can be a bad idea if your rig has a lot of power due to the fact that spring wrap on acceleration is multiplied by the increased distance between the axle and spring. Spitting a block out in the middle of nowhere could be a pretty bad idea, so rear springs might be the better way to go if you can afford it. Newer vehicles use independent suspension in the front end (with the exception of heavy dodges, ford superdutys, and jeep wranglers and grand cheorkees) and are usually very expensive to lift. Remember, anytime you modify your vehicle to enhance off road performance, expect a sacrafice in on road handling. Not to mention all the headaches you could possibly run into during the modification process including driveshaft angle and length problems and possible steering geometry problems. Many companys sell kits or parts to correct these nuances, so do your homework before deciding how much you want to lift your particular vehicle.
So now you have your lift and your bigger tires, but you still want to try the even rougher stuff? This is where traction enhancing differentials come into the picture. There are basically four types of differentials out there. The most common is the "open" differential. Most vehicles came from the factory with these. They allow the tire speeds to vary when traveling around a corner. They also allow one wheel to spin like mad while the other just sits there like a bump on a log. Open differentials have their place in the world, just not as much as in the four wheeling world.
The three aftermarked alternatives are limited slip differentials (often call "posi traction" GM's name for it). A limited slip will TRY to transfer power to both wheels equally. Better off in a high performance street vehicle, limited slips dont necessarly work the best in off road situations. In a low traction environment (i.e. mud) a limited slip work marginally well due to the fact that both wheels are on the ground. But if you hit an off camber situation (i.e. rocks) where you can see daylight under one wheel, that babys just going to spin. To effectivly transfer torque to both wheels, both wheels need at least SOME traction. Limited slips; great for the street, marginal, at best, on the trail.
This brings up locking differentials, such as the Detroit Locker. Locking differentials ("lockers") come in several types from from automatic (requires no driver input, works on it's own) to on demand lockers that the driver can turn on and off at will. Automatic lockers are pretty straightforward. They do it automatically. It's braindead traction. The downside to lockers, lies in the fact that they do have their quirks, namely on the street (clicking sound from the rear end, slight backlash going from drive to coast and back to drive, and understeer in a corner during hard acceleration). Automatic lockers keep both left and right tires locked on the street until the vehicle encounters a corner. When differentiation occurs, the locker will disengage one of the two wheels during a turn and lock back up when the vehicle straightens out. If you want a hardcore offroad traction and dont mind a couple little on road quirks, an automatic locker is for you. On demand lockers are typically more expensive than automatic lockers, but they can be more user friendly on the street. They're also excellent choises for front differentials due to the fact that they can be un-locked to eaiser negotiate a turn. There are a few different kinds out there from the ARB air locker to the Detroit Electrac electric locker to the Ox Lock cable operated locker. All have their advantages as well as their disadvantages.
The last option is the Spool. If this vehicle will spend any time on the street, avoid a spool. It permanantly locks the left and right wheel together. It causes major handling quirks including understeer (wants to go straight when trying to turn) and tire scrub (inside tire travels the same speed as the inside tire, but has to travel less distance through a turn causing it to scuff on the pavement). Spools should be left to the trailer queens off the off road world.
From here, what direction you take is up to you. Body protection, lights, you name it. Off roading is a great sport that can be enjoyed by the whole family. Mild or wild, your desire and wallet are your only limitations.
Depending on your financial situation, the best place to start is tires. The simplest and least expensive option is to slap the biggest tires you can on a stock rig.
If bigger tires is what you desire, a suspension or body lift would be in order. This is where things can start to get expensive. A body lift is the cheapest way to fit larger tires under a rig. A body lift is simply spacers that are inserted between the frame and the body. Also, this type of lift will not effect steering and suspension geometry. Unfortunately, ground clearance between the frame and ground remains the same.
The simplest kind of vehicle to fit with a suspension (spring) lift would be an older truck with a solid front axle with leaf springs on all four corners. These kits can be purchased for as little as three hundred dollars, but watch out. Usually low buck lifts use blocks between the rear leaf springs and the axle to achieve the desired amount of lift. Blocks can be a bad idea if your rig has a lot of power due to the fact that spring wrap on acceleration is multiplied by the increased distance between the axle and spring. Spitting a block out in the middle of nowhere could be a pretty bad idea, so rear springs might be the better way to go if you can afford it. Newer vehicles use independent suspension in the front end (with the exception of heavy dodges, ford superdutys, and jeep wranglers and grand cheorkees) and are usually very expensive to lift. Remember, anytime you modify your vehicle to enhance off road performance, expect a sacrafice in on road handling. Not to mention all the headaches you could possibly run into during the modification process including driveshaft angle and length problems and possible steering geometry problems. Many companys sell kits or parts to correct these nuances, so do your homework before deciding how much you want to lift your particular vehicle.
So now you have your lift and your bigger tires, but you still want to try the even rougher stuff? This is where traction enhancing differentials come into the picture. There are basically four types of differentials out there. The most common is the "open" differential. Most vehicles came from the factory with these. They allow the tire speeds to vary when traveling around a corner. They also allow one wheel to spin like mad while the other just sits there like a bump on a log. Open differentials have their place in the world, just not as much as in the four wheeling world.
The three aftermarked alternatives are limited slip differentials (often call "posi traction" GM's name for it). A limited slip will TRY to transfer power to both wheels equally. Better off in a high performance street vehicle, limited slips dont necessarly work the best in off road situations. In a low traction environment (i.e. mud) a limited slip work marginally well due to the fact that both wheels are on the ground. But if you hit an off camber situation (i.e. rocks) where you can see daylight under one wheel, that babys just going to spin. To effectivly transfer torque to both wheels, both wheels need at least SOME traction. Limited slips; great for the street, marginal, at best, on the trail.
This brings up locking differentials, such as the Detroit Locker. Locking differentials ("lockers") come in several types from from automatic (requires no driver input, works on it's own) to on demand lockers that the driver can turn on and off at will. Automatic lockers are pretty straightforward. They do it automatically. It's braindead traction. The downside to lockers, lies in the fact that they do have their quirks, namely on the street (clicking sound from the rear end, slight backlash going from drive to coast and back to drive, and understeer in a corner during hard acceleration). Automatic lockers keep both left and right tires locked on the street until the vehicle encounters a corner. When differentiation occurs, the locker will disengage one of the two wheels during a turn and lock back up when the vehicle straightens out. If you want a hardcore offroad traction and dont mind a couple little on road quirks, an automatic locker is for you. On demand lockers are typically more expensive than automatic lockers, but they can be more user friendly on the street. They're also excellent choises for front differentials due to the fact that they can be un-locked to eaiser negotiate a turn. There are a few different kinds out there from the ARB air locker to the Detroit Electrac electric locker to the Ox Lock cable operated locker. All have their advantages as well as their disadvantages.
The last option is the Spool. If this vehicle will spend any time on the street, avoid a spool. It permanantly locks the left and right wheel together. It causes major handling quirks including understeer (wants to go straight when trying to turn) and tire scrub (inside tire travels the same speed as the inside tire, but has to travel less distance through a turn causing it to scuff on the pavement). Spools should be left to the trailer queens off the off road world.
From here, what direction you take is up to you. Body protection, lights, you name it. Off roading is a great sport that can be enjoyed by the whole family. Mild or wild, your desire and wallet are your only limitations.
Purerock105
09-17-2003, 11:14 PM
I'd love an off-road discussion, but I guess I'm about a year too late. :(
:grinno: I think I'm WAY TOO LATE. And from the looks of it,
the original thread starter hasn't posted since April....of 02. :screwy:
:grinno: I think I'm WAY TOO LATE. And from the looks of it,
the original thread starter hasn't posted since April....of 02. :screwy:
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