I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidently shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ??????

I'll bet you did fry your Lights out sensor. Easy way to t/s is to unplug the sensor in the trunk. Check for voltage at the connector on the pin of the wire comming from the brake switch. You'll most likely have voltage there if the fuse is ok. Now do a Resistance check from the wire /pin that runs from the same connector to the brake light center connector. If it has resistance (no open wire) then the problem is the sensor. This was my problem, they are new about $140 or about $40 from a parts salvage place. However, I opened up the sensor and had a open solder trace on the circuit board. I soldered a jumper wire across the open trace. Good to go, piece of cake. Mine has been working for 10,000 miles. :lol2:

Oh yeah if you don't get voltage from the brake switch back to the sensor connector then its most likely a broken wire at the trunk hinge, but since your worked until you sputted that hot wire.
I'll lay money its the sensors. Good Luck.

JJ

I'll bet you did fry your Lights out sensor. Easy way to t/s is to unplug the sensor in the trunk. Check for voltage at the connector on the pin of the wire comming from the brake switch. You'll most likely have voltage there if the fuse is ok. Now do a Resistance check from the wire /pin that runs from the same connector to the brake light center connector. If it has resistance (no open wire) then the problem is the sensor. This was my problem, they are new about $140 or about $40 from a parts salvage place. However, I opened up the sensor and had a open solder trace on the circuit board. I soldered a jumper wire across the open trace. Good to go, piece of cake. Mine has been working for 10,000 miles. :lol2:

Oh yeah if you don't get voltage from the brake switch back to the sensor connector then its most likely a broken wire at the trunk hinge, but since your worked until you sputted that hot wire.
I'll lay money its the sensors. Good Luck.

JJ
So the sensor, even if its fried will prevent the brake lights from working ? And even though its fried i will still get the brake light symbol on the dash console ? CAn i bypass the sensor, get rid of it completely and still have the brake lights work like normal ?

George

Oh absolutely it will. Everything to the taillight is fed thru that little sensor.
I don't see why not. Find the wire (I don't have a schematic here) comming from the brake switch. You have to crawl under the dash and see the color of the wire. THen find that wire where it go into the lights out sensor in the trunk. Slice into that wire and jumper it over to the wire that comes out of the same connector and goes to the brake light.
It doesnt cost anything to open that sensor and eyeball the circuit board and if you havent taken out a diode or resistor and its a fried solder trace it easy to fix.
Good luck.
JJ

Thanks everyone....i fixed the problem....i had fried the stop light circuit in the sensor module which controls the light failure sensors which light up on the dash when a light burns out......
I opened up the sensor module which is located on the rear left interior trunk panel, saw that the circuit was fried, i laid a bead of solder across the burnt circuit to reattach it and walla.....it works......

thanks....George.....

Good show George, saved yourself a few bucks there. We gotta keep these 1988's on the road. I'm up to 284,000 miles.

JJ :screwy:

whoops your is a 98' hell its a new one,sorry! :banghead: