$1,000 To Spend Help Me Do It

i got 1,000 bux back on my taxes and i dont know what to buy so far i have the jdm b16a cold air intake/dc header/full exhaust this is what i was thinking but i want more opinions on what would be best

vafc2/fuelpressureregulator/camgears/mugen spec ecu

Those will run me about 900 total installed

LET ME KNOW WHAT ALL OF YOU THINK I SHOULD GET!!!

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no your plan sounds pretty good id say that works but other ideas are Cams gears vavles dnyo time.

oh sorry the plan was this

vafc2/fuelpressureregulator/camgears/mugen spec ecu and DYNO TUNE IT\


SO does that sound best ?

and how much power do you guys think i'll gain off these mods

a little. you should get some cams or go see how much a port and polish would run you at a machine shop

so with the vafc2/fuelpressureregulator/camgears/mugen ecu and putting it on the dyno to get tuned rite you guys dont think i'll feel much difference if any so basically its not worth going this route? i was hoping for them to be able to pull 10-15 hp out of it

Why waste the money on a chipped ECU, just to tune it to different settingsa with a VAFC? Cam gears without new cams is kind of a waste, maybe you can squeeze out another 2 or 3hp. Maybe N2o/VAFC/ and a wideband o2 sensor?

i do not want n20 man sorry so please guys tell me what i should buy for 1,000 bux let me know please....

CTR cams, wideband o2 VAFC, and cam gears. Should be able to tune in about 15hp with a very noticable difference in mid range power.

i can't come up on all that stuff for 1000 bux plsu installation and everything i was also thinking about buying these parts

vafc 2
skunk 2 intake man
fuel pressure regulator
throttle body 65mm or 75 mm

WOULD I NOTICE FROM THOSE MODS?

With those mods you are going to notice that you cams suckat high rpms. really.

You can get the CTR cams, at least the intake for around 300-400, gears for 160-200, VAFC for 150-220, that's 840 max, and if you have a tuner shop, you don't have to buy a wideband, just use theirs to tune.

You don't need a vafc2 on a stock engine.. I'd get the ctr cams and pistons to up your compression, adj. cam gears to tune them with, then worry about getting one. Like said, 10-15hp.

Or you could do the grown-up thing and save your money. $1000 in groceries and bills is a lot of dough to just crap away on a car..

Actually on a lightly modded motor with CTRs, a VAFC (not VAFC2) is a good idea. You'll run too rich and lose some power up top and you can lean it back in the upper rpms.
Besides replacing pistons is an ordeal, and cams pistons, and a complete rebuild is outside the budget, not to mention then you would really want to get some kind of piggyback or other fuel tuning device.

well i just bought a pr3 skunk 2 programmed ecu today i felt a difference just with that i paid 180 for it now i have 820 left to spend i am trading my p28 ecu for a set of new dc sports camgears so thats out of the way i was thinking of buying skunk 2 intake manifold and a bored out throttle body and the fuel pressure regulator for now then next paycheck get the ctr camshafts.....? wat yall think

also what if i just put the ctr intake camshaft then install my dc sports sprockets will that give me POWER or do i need the intake and exhaust?

Some people run hte intake alone, and have good luck with it. You're on the right track, I personally wouldn't have gotten a chipped ECU, unless I needed it to run my motor, but for tuning purposes, it is pointless if you are running two different methods of control. Personally, I am not a fan of performance chips, mainly, actually only because they don't really allow tuning, at least not without the investment in of software to burn new ROMs.

Actually on a lightly modded motor with CTRs, a VAFC (not VAFC2) is a good idea. You'll run too rich and lose some power up top and you can lean it back in the upper rpms.
I know the autometer a/f gauges are worthless, but I'm getting beat by gsr's with only a header and exhaust, and my gauge shows all the way rich. Could I have the same problem or is that thing for total eye candy?

Auto meter gauges,actually most gauges read narrowband, and that isn't enough to tune wiht. www.plxdevices.com has a wideband o2 system and a convertor to turn the autometer into a wideband gauge.

About getting beat by GSR's. Your CTR motor is still pushing less torque than a GSR, and only 15 more Hp, so I'd say depending on the driver and weight of their car, that's about right.

look if you want your car to pull harder in between stop lights, and you already have an intake,header and exhaust and you have 1000 bucks to spend and you still want it just as reliable that choice is clear...i would get a good clutch, nothin to crazy say a good act disc or even a centerforce dual friction and get a set of good cams like the toda spec A's ( or B's if you can find them cheap ) even the Jun stage 1's are good , you can get a clutch and cams for around a grand and she will pull nice all around town !!!! dont fool around with small tuning parts that you wont feel cause i know thast not what your looking for

You do realize those Toda and JUN cams cost about 900 a pair right?

i allrady have the mugen ecu in my car working great so i have 820 left to spend how about this... ctr intake camshaft/camgears/semi-slicks