Hi, my name's Greg. I have alot of Navy-related electrical and mechanical experience --- just not with automobiles. Here is a detailed description of my current problem:

BACKGROUND
1. My car is a 1996 Ford Escort LX with 120k miles.
2. I have a standard transmission that was rebuilt 1 1/2yrs ago.
3. My cooling system was recently flushed and pressure tested,
which was followed a few hours later by the catastrophic failure of
a rusty freeze plug while the vehicle was operating. The vehicle was
towed, serviced and returned to operation.

ACTIVE PROBLEMS
1. (years) My heater does not blow hot air at any time.
2. (1 wk.) I suspect my electric radiator fan is not turning on.
3. (1 day) My vehicle makes a very audible knock-rattle, sometimes
with an accompanying hiss.
a. This problem definately only occurs when I apply throttle. The
noise increases in pitch and frequency in relation to engine RPM.
b. It never occurs while compression-braking or idling.
c. I have not experienced this problem during tests in reverse.
d. It is intermittant and very brief during an intentional rev of the
engine from idle; I cannot determine if engagement of the clutch
has any effect.
4. (1 day) There is an ambient smell of [roasted corn?] during
engine operation when sampled from outside the vehicle. It is not a
repulsive smell, nor is it a localized smell.

DETAILED NARRATIVE
On March 12th, 2004, while waiting in traffic, I observed my coolant temperature gauge quickly deflect toward overheating. The temperature quickly decreased to normal after the car maintained forward motion. Subsequent stops would cause the temperature to rise, and it always returned to normal when I resumed driving.
Later that day, while the car was parked, I revved the motor for a friend in an attempt to deflect the coolant temperature gauge. Before we began, he removed the radiator cap. Eventually, coolant boiled out of the open radiator, but the gauge remained normal and the fan never turned on.

(I understand that the cooling system is designed to operate under pressure to reduce the boiling point of the coolant, and that removing the radiator cap thwarted this. Also, I am unfamiliar with the temperature calibration associated with the C and the H readings on the coolant temperature gauge.)

The next day, I had my oil changed and cooling system flushed at a local Midas. They replaced what was explained to be a defective radiator cap with a 13psi version.
I then began an 18 mile drive. During the drive, my coolant temperature gauge never deflected past normal. However, steam would occasionally billow out of my air circulation vents and into the passenger cabin.
When I arrived at my destination, an outside observer informed me that my car had just developed a major coolant leak. He had traced the trail of water from it's origin, through a parking lot and to my parked vehicle. I got out and observed coolant rapidly leaking from under the engine.
The car was towed to Midas --- the same shop that performed the cooling system flush. They isolated the leak as coming from a freeze plug located between the transmission and the engine.
I paid over $600 for labor to remove my transmission and replace the rusted freeze plug. While I was waiting to pick up the car, the Midas technicians broke a plastic gear inside the transmission that is associated with my speedometer. I waited another day for the part.
The next day, the technicians informed me that my heater core was slowly leaking, and that the car could be driven as long as I periodically refilled the coolant.
As I accellerated away from the Midas lot, I noticed a very audible rattling noise coming from the engine, as described above. With the window down, I could smell the odor described above. I want to emphasize that this noise was not present at any time before the vehicle was serviced by Midas.
During the short drive home, I received "CHECK COOLANT" (Amber) and later noticed the passenger-side carpet was damp. My coolant expansion tank level was below the associated sensor.

SUSPICIONS
1. Did a piece of the speedo gear fall into my transmission?
2. Did the Midas technicians run my car with an insufficient amount
of coolant, thus causing additional damage?

Respectfully request your advice to the level you are comfortable with.

Thanks!
Greg

1. Heater... what does the temp gauge read? If the engine is at normal temp, check that the cable that operates the heater valve is working correctly. Considerign your other problems, a stuck thermostat may be to blame... preventing circulation and causing faulty temp readings, and preventing the fan from kicking on when needed.

2. There are two relays in the engine compartment that operate the fan (see recent posts regarding this same problem). Let your car sit at idle and warm up, then turn on your A/C and wait to see if the fan kicks on. Your temp sending unit may be faulty. If all else fails, invest $10 in a new sensor and swap it out... easy to do. If you run the EEC test it will test the fan circuit.

3. Not sure about the hiss... check hoses for a vacuum leak, or maybe intake gaskets. If the knocking sound has been occuring since the tranny rebuild, it is possible that the transmission is not mounted correctly. Otherwise, internal wear to the transmission, or possibly the axles or CV boots. Start by verifying the mounting.

4. Not sure what roasted corn smells like, but if you smell soemthign odd, take a good look under the car for oil or tranny leaks... maybe even coolant. If you can't find one, check the fluid levels of each... if one is low, suspect that it is leaking and burning up on the outside of the engine.

As for a piece of plastic in the tranny... possible. I don't think that would cause the problems you describe, though it could clearly cause problems. These cars are knows to have bad speedos... is the rattling you hear possibly coming from the speedometer and not from the engine?

How was the system flushed? If a pressure system was used, it is possible that it was done wrong and caused the damage to your heater core and caused the leaks from the freeze plug. You should find out if they removed the thermostat before doing the flush. If they did not, you should keep them on the hook for repairs. All that is necessary to flush the system in this car is to fill it up with water, let it run, and drain it.

Jeez... what a load of problems... just tackle one at a time. I think Midas screwed you...

Good luck to you... do these one at a time and give as much detail for each as you go along...