Turn Signal works occasionally


thehein5
03-18-2004, 08:08 PM
We have a 96 t&c. The turn signals only work once in a while. Sometimes they start to work and then freeze. Sometimes they don't work at the beginning of a ride and start to work 10 minutes into it. It seems quite random. Does anyone know what the problem might be and if you do, could you be very specific as I am a novice repairman. Thanks so much!

RAHBABY
07-01-2004, 11:49 AM
I Have The Exact Same Problem In My 96 T&c, Any Ideas On How To Solve It???

ylime77
09-14-2004, 12:27 PM
I Have The Exact Same Problem In My 96 T&c, Any Ideas On How To Solve It???

Did you ever get a resolution to this? I have the same problem.

stefanosa
09-16-2004, 07:17 PM
I have experienced similar problems with the turn signal working intermittently on my 96 t&c. I replaced the turn signal switch assembly to no success (wasted $75).

After reading a solution-thread for a similar problem; I directed my attention to the combination (flasher module) turn signal / hazard flasher module which is located in the fuse junction block under the dash near the emergency brake release.

To access the Junction Block, loosen the two finger screws of the access cover located above the brake pedal. The combination flasher module is the larger module located in the upper right hand corner.

All I did was wiggle the module and the turn signal worked, ... for now anyway. If I have to replace the module, a dealer quoted a replacement at $45 (part #4686094).

The above procedure is listed in the Haynes Repair Manual.

***They issue a warning to disconnect the neg battery cable and wait at least 2 minutes to avoid possible accidental deployment of airbag of which could cause personal injury***.

Hope this leads you in a direction to remedy your problem.

jamoosee
12-20-2004, 08:13 PM
Did your turn signals finally start working properly ?? I am having the same problem.

stefanosa
12-21-2004, 03:47 PM
Did your turn signals finally start working properly ?? I am having the same problem.
The turn signals are still working without any problems!!! In addition to wiggling the module, I did remove the module for inspection, before reinserting.
I hope this works for you so life can become joyful again.

fred barney
12-21-2004, 04:05 PM
A related problem is a week and easily broken turn signal lever. Lousy potmetal casted parts.

jamoosee
12-21-2004, 06:51 PM
My life will be joyful again once I get rid of this Voyager.FYI the problems I have had since buying the vehicle new in 1999. I presently have only 50,000 miles on it.

I am on my 4th transmission, all replaced in the first year of ownership.

I leak brake fluid from somewhere (under warranty they could not find the leak and told me to keep topping it off).

I leak oil from somewhere at the rear (have replaced rear valve cover gasket twice).

My water pump leaks from the weep hole. (3.0L V6)

The rad leaks from the drain cock.

Occasionally with the turn signal on, the light in the radio flashes with the signals.

What a pile of s---. Definitely my last Chrysler vehicle, shame on me for giving them a chance.

Bulldog Brewer
02-23-2005, 11:23 PM
Did you finally fix it and if so how?

jamoosee
02-23-2006, 08:59 PM
replaced turn signal module $50 and hasn't reappeared since.

IntegraR0064
11-04-2006, 12:39 PM
This was happening on my 96 grand voyager as well, I just wiggled the flasher module, and it fixed it as well. Thanks for the help people!

catfishfryer
03-12-2008, 10:32 AM
An intermittent or occasional Dodge Chrysler 4686094 flasher module can be repaired easily! SAVE YOUR $45!!

1. Pull out the flasher;( it is 1"x1" x 2" #4686094 relay module under dash, put your head against the brake pedal and look up, it sticks up higher than most and is 3/4 way up on relay panel; if you push on the relay with the blinker on, and it may start clicking to help you identify it. My car is a 1996 dodge caravan ). The relay is a pain to get out, but keep thinking of the $45 you save.

2. Now to repair the relay. On the spade pin side of the relay, bend and brake off the two 1/2" x 1/32" plastic ears that hold the relay cover on and slide the relay cover off.

3. Look at the circuit board side with the shiney solder connections. The exterior pins go thru the plastic base and are soldered to the circuit board. These solder connections to the pins get hairline stress fractures and are intermittent as they make and lose contact. If you use a magnifier glass you can see the offending cracked solder joint.

4. Re-Solder each contact point on the circuit board edge. This can be done by just reheating the contact with a solder iron till the solder flows a little . If you do use some extra new solder, make sure it does not flow across (bridge) the contact points. It is not necessary to re-solder the component connections on the board.

5. Put cover back on and secure with a dot of glue or short piece of scotch tape , and reinstall in car (I cursed alot when having to blindly reinstall, it is more a pain than removal, but I kept thinking of the $45 saved).

Try this and keep from giving $45 dollars of hard earned money to the unworthy dealer.

RIP
03-12-2008, 12:53 PM
Good info catfishfryer. Repost it as a new thread. Label it "Fix your flasher module" or something like that. More will see it. You don't always have to have a question to post a new thread. Info like this will help many. Thanks.

densmith123
01-19-2009, 05:18 PM
catfishfryer, you were right on! Thank you for your help.

I had a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with an intermittent left turn signal. Whenever it wouldn't work, I would leave the left turn signal on and then turn the hazard lights on and off real quick. This would get the left turn signal to work 95% of the time.

I suspected the combination flasher relay (P/N: 4686094), so I pulled it out. Go to www.wjjeeps.com (http://www.wjjeeps.com) for some awesome information on fuse and relay locations for the 1999-2004 Grand Cherokees.

I proceeded to take the relay apart with the use of two flathead screwdrivers, one to pry one of the "ears" and one to pry the other as described in catfish's post. I did not need to break the ears off, which was handy for the reassembly.

There I was staring at the insides of the relay having no idea where to begin troubleshooting, when by luck I stumbled into catfishfryer's post above. Each of the 9 terminals on the combination flasher corresponds to a pin on the bottom side of the circuit board. I tested for continuity from each terminal to each pin to figure out which terminal belonged to each pin and wrote them down. I then tested for continuity from each terminal to the outside of the solder joint for its corresponding pin, and lo and behold discovered a cracked solder joint, 3rd pin from the left. When I would press on the pin I would get continuity, but without pressing on it there was no continuity.

I remelted that solder, and for good measure put just a little more solder onto the joint. I retested it for continuity and it worked perfectly. I slid the relay back together and it snapped back into the housing just fine. The driving test confirms that it was good repair!

Thanks again catfishfryer, you saved me $45 that I didn't have to give to a stinkin' dealer. I would not have known where to begin troubleshooting if it weren't for your info.

stevemcc295
02-11-2009, 03:59 PM
Had the same problem with my 2001 JGC. Turn signals/flashers wouldn't work until warmed up (sometimes took over an hour of driving time with the heat blasting). Followed catfishfryer and densmith123 posts and they now work like new. Had at least 2 cracked solder joints that needed touching up but I did them all anyway.
Thanks guys!

Darkwing46
04-13-2009, 01:00 PM
Brilliant catfishfryer, don't know why I didn't think of it. I've repaired a few TV's just by reheating solder joints (RCA's are the worst). I saved $75+ (Canadian) by fixing the relay myself. Just to add an additional suggestion: while you have it apart cut a strip of plain notepad paper about 1/4 inch wide, soak it in electronic contact cleaner and pull it through each of the four relay contacts, cutting off the soiled end after each use. It's a tad tedious, you need to hold open the contact with a small screwdriver or toothpick while you insert the paper strip, let the contact close on the paper then pull it slowly out - you'd be surprised at the amount of carbon that has built up. Thanks again - I'm new here but I've always done most of my own repairs and could have found this forum useful on many occasions. I will in the future.

MadHatter503
04-19-2009, 12:10 PM
Had same problem due to 4-ways left on too long and stressed out the relays! Loosened the relay springs and solved the problem. Check for cold or cracked circut connections first, then try to adjust springs.

jkbrink
01-04-2011, 07:48 PM
Thank you catfishfryer for the soldering tip! The cracking of the solder connections is barely visible to the eye, but under 20X can be seen real clear. Resoldered 4 of the leads and all signals are working great. I have a 2000 grand with 106000 and the left hand signal that would sometimes work, most times not while all others worked fine. I changed the drivers side head-light assembly, rear tail-light assembly and column switch in mid-summer and thought it fixed the problem. But, outside temperature definately affects the solder/contact connection after it cracks. I live in the Midwest and the colder it got the signal would stop working longer and longer. The assemblies needed changed out anyway since the headlight lens was all clouded over and the rear lamp sockets were pretty burnt black, but probably didn't have to spend the $75 on the column lever switch. BIG KUDOS to you!

Tucson
02-05-2011, 12:34 AM
The re-soldered connections helped me on a number of occasions with my 2000 Grand Caravan.

I still have had intermittent signals from time to time. With all the wiggling of the relay, I think it doesn't always sit in the fuseholder module very well. So the other day, I actually applied a bit of solder to thicken up the posts on the relay module that contact the fuseholder before I put it back in. Sure enough, now the module sits snugly in the fuseholder module, and I don't have any turn signal issues any more.

I got to thinking that was a larger issue than the internal joints in the relay after I had re-soldered the relay for the 3rd time, and it quit working 5 minutes later. I pulled over and reached under the dash to wiggle the relay, and sure enough it started to work again...

Given how long that module is compared to a normal relay, its easy to envision that it will start to work its way loose, especially on gravel and dirt roads, or even an occasional pothole. Think about how often you have to sometimes wiggle a cheap power cord in a wall outlet to make it work. Why? They are making the power cord prongs thinner and thinner these days in order to cut back on the amount of metal they use.

By the way, the last quote I got from a dealer on a turn signal relay was 95 dollars. What a joke...

gary v
02-13-2011, 01:53 PM
I have been having this issue with the wifes van for a few months now, saw your post catfishfryer & checked it out & sure enough three cracked joints. Just wanted to say thanks for the fix & to everyone else who post fixes.

injectordoctor
10-28-2011, 03:35 PM
I have three Dodge Caravans. This problem has cropped up on two of them. So far, I have replaced three turn signal switches, and paid $75 X 3 = $225 plus mechanic's charges upwards of $100. I just could not understand how brand new switches would not work.

Then toady, I went on web and Googled this subject and came across this forum.

I was particularly surprised by the post by catfishfryer.

I followed his suggestion, and removed the relay, opened it and checked the contacts inside as well as outside. I then pushed it back in and made sure it was secure.

Then I tested the signals. They work perfectly!:smile:

By the way, I did not have the break the tabs. I inserted a small flat-head screwdriver in the slot and while pushing the tab in place, pried the relay gently. With some effort, it came apart, and also went back in just as easily.

In case I have this problem again, I know exactly what to do. Knowledge is power!!!!

I cannot thank catfishfryer enough for his help. I wish there was a way to reward him for his help. If anyone among the posters knows how, please share it with me.

Thanks, catfishfryer! May God bless you.

And thanks to automotiveforums.com. You are offering a great service.

fatheroftwo
11-12-2011, 08:47 PM
The front signals are working but the rear signals and flasher quit working, any ideas???

RIP
11-13-2011, 01:49 PM
The front signals are working but the rear signals and flasher quit working, any ideas???

Model year?

MelissaL34
11-18-2011, 01:32 PM
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the left blinker working sparatically for about 18 months. At first, the blinker would work if I banged on the top of the steering wheel, then I noticed if I flipped on the hazard emergency lights on it would trigger...now the stupid thing does not work at all. After getting a ridicules quote of over $300 I decided to Google this issue and found this thread.

Let me start off my saying I am a female and I know nothing about cars. After reading both Catfishfryer and Densmith123 posts and getting the link to www.wjjeeps.com (http://www.wjjeeps.com/), I was able to find the relay switch! Not an easy accomplishment. Then by turing on the hazards the switch would click and made it easy to figure out which one it was. I noticed that I can tap the switch and my blinker will now work, although it does not look very pretty without the dash. I just called the dealer and they want $50.20 for a new relay switch. I am debating on just replacing it or removing it and trying to solder it myself now.

Without these awesome posts, I would have paid close to $500 to get this fixed because they were starting with the actual blinker arm! Who knows when they would have realized it was just the relay!

A HUGE THANK YOU FOR THIS INFORMATION!

canoehead
06-23-2012, 06:38 PM
THANK YOU Catfishfryer!!!!!

wyosodakanna
01-08-2013, 05:24 PM
THANK YOU so much to the post explaining exactly where to look for this and to catfishfryer!Had this issue since last August .Signals worked and then didn't;etc.etc.I re-seated the little black box and now know how easy it is to replace if I need to.;and I could tell which one it was by hearing and then finding it at a time when the darn things were working,just like you said.I love doing this myself;repairs always cost $200 it seems, for anything.Hats off to you:

RIP
01-09-2013, 12:42 AM
THANK YOU so much to the post explaining exactly where to look for this and to catfishfryer!Had this issue since last August .Signals worked and then didn't;etc.etc.I re-seated the little black box and now know how easy it is to replace if I need to.;and I could tell which one it was by hearing and then finding it at a time when the darn things were working,just like you said.I love doing this myself;repairs always cost $200 it seems, for anything.Hats off to you:

I've been passing cats' resolder trick to many since he posted it years ago. The no turn sig bug finally hit me and I knew exactly what needed to be done. I had been playing the "wiggle the relay" game for months. Had enough of it recently and tried cats' resolder fix. It's been working fine for a few months now. I wonder how many out there have forked over the ~ $60 bucks for a new flasher when a free fix was at their fingertips. Glad to see you won't be one of them.

ptjeepmech
01-26-2013, 05:45 PM
Ok, had same left turn signal problem. Pulled flasher and attempted to solider it. I bridged two (maybe more) together, swore a lot, and put it back in anyway. Then neither left or right turn signal worked, neither did the heater control at all or my heated seats. Went to a junk yard and pulled a used flasher for very short money. Installed that, no differance. Went through all fuses under hood too, found #20 (10a) and #26 (15a) blown and replaced. Heater control and heated seats are back, still no left or right turn signals but do still have hazards. No 20x magnifier handy to check for cracks in the "new" flasher cause it too could be faulty but is it possible I'm just not seeing something or some fuse?

mkov608
02-18-2013, 06:26 AM
Help! I've got a 91 Voyager and the turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up & even then they are intermittent. I get a rapid clicking (no turn signal indicator light) when the steering wheel is in any other position. Has anyone had this problem? How did you fix it?

ptjeepmech
02-18-2013, 08:19 AM
Help! I've got a 91 Voyager and the turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up & even then they are intermittent. I get a rapid clicking (no turn signal indicator light) when the steering wheel is in any other position. Has anyone had this problem? How did you fix it?

Your problem sounds electrical, as if you have a wire somewhere that is loose or pinched or even damaged some where along your steering column. Normally a rapid flash sound is an indicator of a blown bulb. My guess would be you many have a wire issue from you multi-function switch (turn signal arm) housing to the panel containing your combination flasher. In short, not an easy fix or easy to diagnose. If you are handy with a voltage / ohms meter then getting a wiring diagram and attempting to test conductivity of wires when activated in different positions may be your first step. The only parts that could be the issue besides the wires are bulbs, fuses, combination flasher and multi-fiction switch, but from what you are telling us it doesn't sound like any of those.

mkov608
02-24-2013, 11:50 AM
Thanks PTJeepmech. I got it fixed. I started a new thread so others could find it. It turned out to be bad pin retention on the socket that plugs into the turn signal lever.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=7028504#post7028504 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=7028504#post7028504)

thomasdqt
07-25-2013, 10:15 PM
Thank you so much Catfishfryer, and others who discussed and explained much in details.

Our 2000 Gr-Caravan left front turn signal light worked intermittently at first, to finally quit working with only rear turn signal flashing fast. But right side turn signal lights work fine all the time. I traced and locked to that Combination Flasher module this evening, and was about to order a new one tomorrow. But luckily I hit this page, especially Catfishfryer's post. Again, millions of thanks.

Bingo !! just ten minutes and back to normal, not only saved $$ but much time and effort !

jakerb
05-20-2014, 08:47 PM
Wow, 6 year old post, wish I read it last fall when I first started having to jam my relay around under the dash of my 98 town and country whilst driving so someone wouldn't ram into me while I turned a corner. I did have to add some solder to my joints, they were completely separated, but this took 5 minutes and was an instant fix! Thanks for the post.

Last year this van would not start on occasion, leaving my family abandoned at times, and I read how to take apart the dash and resolder some of the joints behind the instrument cluster, there are some detailed photo instructables online. I also have not had an issue with that in the past 14 months since the home repair.

mrclean92124
07-19-2014, 02:37 PM
I had the turn signal ordered and shipped to my house, $80.00.

One last check on the forums, and i found this post, thanks a ton to catfishfryer!

Wiggling the flasher is the test, one side didn't work sometimes and the other always did along with emergency blink.

I pulled off the fuse box cover (two black plastic 'screw' type retainers) by twisting 90 degrees and pulling off the cover.

Look up and find the 'double wide' rectangle flasher. Pull that.


As someone already posted, no need to break the tabs on the flasher:
Just use two med flathead screw drivers on the long sides of the relay to push back the pins.
Use 1 or 2 tiny flathead screwdrivers, or a butterknife to push back the tabs on the short edge tabs.
Grab one of the metal pins and gently pull with a pair of needle nose pliers.


I had to do this job twice, the 1st time didn't work. I did notice some micro cracks on the solder joints, but, I swear to you I would have never guessed they would cause this issue. I re-melted the solder on all the joints anyway and re-installed. Still broken though.

On the second attempt I used some extra resin core solder on the joints that had very little solder. The solder on these joints was barely coming up 1/3 way up the side of the metal "I" shaped pin. I added a bit more solder to bring it up over 1/2 way or closer to over the top. I had to do this on 2-3 pins...the rest already had enough.

I visually inspected to make sure no solder had run over and touched any of the other pins or circuit traces and re-installed.

The test was to wiggle the flasher while testing the turn signal on all 3 settings: 1) Left 2) Right 3) Emergency.

If you can't make it stop by wiggling the relay, you have a good fix.

Good luck and thank you again those that came before!!!!!!

PS: This little post saved me 80$ on the turn switch, and $60 on the replacement flasher.

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