Using water to clean the combustion chambers

What do you guys think of running water through the engine to clean the combustion chambers? Lets say you suspect a sticky valve, due to sludge on the top side & not closing 100%.

I’ve gotten a few different opinions.
One mech used to actually pour water into the carb at fast idle, with no problems. Then again my dad saw a guy blow an engine using just an eye dropper. The safest way I was told was to use a spray-bottle on “wide/mist”, and no more than a quart.

Then again, wouldn’t water just clean the underside/combustion-side of the valve and NOT the top where the sludge is?

I was also told to used GM’s “Top engine cleaner" "Seafoam" or other things. Im not crazy about solvents. A little sludge on hi-mile rings is not a bad thing. If you dis-lodge it, the cylinder may start to smoke.

If you know how to properly(i dont feel like lecturing right now since i'm in english class :biggrin: ) Use top engine cleaner, you will get good results.

Water is an old trick and it does work, but I would suggest it for older carbureted cars.
Get it up to operating temperature, the hotter the better, so long as the radi is not actuually boiling over.
At idle, dribble water into the carb, slowly. A stream of droplets is what you need, about 10 oz.
Its the water turning into steam inside the combustion chamber that does the cleaning.
However, I think a full can of combustion chamber cleaner is better.

I have this question posted elsewhere (im also running a few different projects at once)
Anyways, I’ve been told water is the most dangerous, because of the sudden compression change.Im better off with a petroleum based solvent. I’ve been told to try:

8oz of brake fluid or ATF
10oz of diesel,
12oz of Marvel oil
Whole can of GM Top Engine cleaner
PB Blaster aerosol (something like liquid wrench or rust buster) through a vaccum line.
Or something else called “Seafoam”

Any opinions?

What do you guys think of running water through the engine to clean the combustion chambers?

Aircraft engines used to have water injection so it might help if the amount was metered precisely. The GM recommended product looks to be a safer choice but why not pull the head and clean the chambers and valves directly?

If the valve is only sticking occasionally why not try adding Molybdenum Disulphide to the oil? This seems to work for all sorts of problems.

Good luck.

Why not pull the head and clean the chambers and valves directly?
Why not try adding Molybdenum Disulphide to the oil? This seems to work for all sorts of problems.

Pulling the head would be the best way, but I wont do that for a few reasons. There's alot of miles, and dont want to open a can of worms.
The engine will be due for a rebuild eventually. If the sticky valve problem worsens to the point of being un-drivable, I'll wait till the overhaul, to pull the heads.

But tell me more about this Molybdenum. I've heard the word before.
What is it exactly? Where do I buy it? Is there a brand name?

After my treatment of 1-water & ATF, 2- Seafoam, 3- Engineflush,
4-oil change with 1pt of "Restore", 5- then after 500 miles, 1qt of "Prolong", it seems to be runnig better.

Don't use water! The best that could happen is it actually work and your intake will rust! :grinno:

First of all I think the marine's advice on water is good. After all, they do spend a lot of time around water.

But tell me more about this Molybdenum. I've heard the word before.

Molybdenum Disulphide (called anti-scuff in machine shops) is a low friction coating that loves metal. The film can also remain in place under tremendous pressure. Some firearms enthusiasts coat their bullets with it.

For automotive use I am familiar with two brands, Molyslip and Mr. Moly but there may be more. Any good automotive supply outfit should have some.

One thing about Moly though, it is black and will turn all of the oil black just as if it had not been changed for a hundred thousand miles.

Moly probably won't help a sticky valve, however, depending on why the valve is sticking. If it is the lifter that sticks then it might help but if the valve stem is bent then nothing short of pulling the head will do.

Good luck.

molybdenum disulfide? its called molybdenum sulfide, because its an ionic compound and only molecular compounds can have prefix' such as di

molybdenum disulfide? its called molybdenum sulfide, because its an ionic compound and only molecular compounds can have prefix' such as di

That may well be true and if so then you should contact the Molyslip company because that is what they call it. They also wrote MOS2 on the can. If not for the label I would have no idea what is in the can.