Help with engine problem and getting codes

I was wondering if anybody can help me.....
My car hasn't been able to start for almost a week now. The check engine light was on before it had problems. I was wondering if there is any way I can get a reading for the check engine light without having it towed to dealer to have them look at it. I know on my previous vehicle I could just turn the key a few times and the check engine light would flash the code at me. I dont understand this Geo much new to the whole Geo thing. For 3 days before it stopped running it was hard to start first thing in the morning and when you would try to give it gas when pulled out of the driveway it would sputter like it was going to die. after that first starting/ run in the morning it would start fine the rest of the day.... if anybody could please help me figure this out I would greatly appreciate it. :newbie:

Been A while since i had to look for codes on these, but I do know that there used to be a diagnostic terminal on the fuse block. You simply insert a fuse into this terminal to ground it, then count the flashes of the check engine light. Fuse block used to be located under the left side of the dash, between the steering column and the kick panel.
good luck

Yep. The geo's computers really aren't very helpful in diagnosing a problem like the old chrysler turn-key ones were. Often, they're wrong, like, wayyyyy wrong. If it says o2 sensor, don't worry about that. The computer barely even uses it, and doesn't require it to run, just a small loss of MPG will result. Sounds more like a vacuum leak, bad MAP sensor, bad cap and rotor, bad plugs, or bad injector. Here's a list of things to do to check.
1. Make sure the engine has oil, and that he didn't run it dry. If there is no oil, all is lost....
2. Check and see if the plugs are getting spark. Take a wire off the spark plug, and lie it on top of the valve cover or engine block. Crank the engine and see if a spark jumps from the wire end and the block. If it does, you're good for the cap and rotor/coil and wires.
3. Check the plugs. Make sure the electrodes are sharp, and hopefully tan. Black plugs mean you're running rich, and should probably be replaces with an upgraded set (bosch platinum +4)
4. Take off the intake shroud and air filter. Spray carb cleaner in the throttle body while holding the butterfly valve open, and clean everything off with a rag until it's clean. much easier with 2 people, if someone is pressing the gas pedal down to the floor while you clean it
5. Check ALL your vacuum lines for tears, cracks, or if they're even connected. Also, a leaky brake booster seal will cause a vacuum leak.
6. Make sure the engine is getting fuel. Loosen the nut that holds the fuel line to the intake, just enough to make it leak (PUT RAGS DOWN TO CATCH THE GAS) and turn the key to the on postition and off really quick to turn on the fuel pump(this is just a quick check, has nothing to do with fuel pressure). If gas squirts out, you're getting fuel.
7. If everything is ok, and it still won't start, check your timing belt. It may have skipped a tooth, stripped, or broken. If that is the case, run a compression test on all the cylinders to make sure there are no bent valves, and replace the timing belt.

Thank you both very much. I will try your ideas as soon as the snow stops falling. Again thanks.

Ok how do I do a compression test?

1997 Geo Metro Lsi
1.3L 4 cyl engine

you can buy a tool that screws into the spark plug hole, with a pressure gauge attached to it. You crank the engine for a second, and go check the pressure, and repeat for the other 2 cylinders.

Geozuki.... dude...... don't forget the 4th cylinder. :biggrin:

Ok... I got my hands on a diagnostic tool and plugged it in.... it is coming up code P0113 (Intake Air Temperature Curcuit High Input). So I am told via somebody at Checker Auto Parts that in the book all it says is that the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor curcuit, has a high voltage. I tried asking him what that meant and he put me on hold and hung up on me.... aaarrrggghhh :banghead: . I tried calling back and asking again but I got hung up on again. So I am wondering if you can tell me what the heck I am supposed to do. I checked most the stuff you told me to try. Oil in engine, spark plugs are good, wires are good, cleaned the throttle body, checked vacuum lines, and engine is getting fuel. I am lost. It got too cold for me to check my timing belt yesterday. If anybody can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you all in advance.

Ok, os maybe you want to check your intake air temp sensor. High voltage could mean its hooped, or it could be a faulty wiring connection. Locate the sensor, then do a wiggle test with the wires, if you still have a problem. remove the sensor, and test it for resistance with an ohm-meter. heat the sensor with a hair dryer ( DO NOT use a propane torch, or any other brand of flaming device ) and watch for a drop in resistance. If there is no change, then chances are, its hooped. Good Luck

Well before the damn snow started I was able to take a look at my Intake Air Temperature Sensor.... Somebody cut the wires... :banghead: :swear:

So now I have to replace those... any idea where I can get those wires? I have called around and am just getting the run around. I have also gotten laughed at... sometimes I hate being a girl....lol. If any of you could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Again!!!

what kind of connection does it have, is it a simple spade terminal on the sensor with ground to the intake, or is it a two wire. If it is a special plug, your easiest bet is to find a junkyard car with the wiring harness intact, and just cut out what you need. I keep several old harnesses around, just for that purpose, as most of the racecars are missing something when i get them. Use fine solder to join the wires, then use liquid electrical tape, and cover it all up with heat-shrink tubing for a proven weather-tight seal. have fun

Thank you pind.... you are being very helpful... so are you geosukigti..

I will try looking at the junk yards around here... its going to be a pain with all the snow we have at the moment..lol. I hope i can get this done without a mechanic cause i know they will charge me a arm and a leg. $80 a hour labor.... geez. but thank you. i will be back again with results.

Well I went searching junkyards in the Twin Cities metro area yesterday and today.... no luck. Either they didnt have any Geo Metro's or they didnt have my part. Well then I even called out to North Dakota, South Dakota, Wisconsin, and then Iowa. No help anywhere. So I went to dealer. They are trying to tell me I have to buy a new wiring harness for my entire car. then they told me worse news. They want me to spend $1000.00 on just the harness not including installation. I cant afford that. You guys have any ideas... I mean I dont want to get rid of my Geo. Its perfect for road trips and a family car. Not to mention great on gas mileage. I mean it is in perfect shape with only 83,000 miles on it. Well I hope one of you can help me figure out my problem. Thanks.

Are the wires cut so close to the sensor that they can't be spliced back together? If you have a camera, take a pic, and show me, and I'll tell you what you could do.

it wont let me post a pic....

Email me the pic, i'll take a look at it. [email protected]

sent the pic to your yahoo... but yahoo has very bad looking pic.. too fuzzy... hopefully you can figure it out. i marked it where the plug end was and where the wires are/were supposed to be