So you want to swap out that puny 91 cubic inch weedwacker engine of yours and replace it with a fire-breathing DOHC? That's cool. But which engine should you go for? The 5th and 6th generation civic owners are lucky in the fact that its bigger brothers were designed very similar to the civic in many ways. This allows the ability to transplant various other engines from other H-cars without too much fuss. Integra, Prelude, other civics, even the sport Ute CRV engines can be considered. In addition you can do more than just swap out the whole engine, you could take a Vtec cylinder head and put it on your existing engine or swap out the whole engine and THEN swap the head on that. The possibilities are many. To help you wade through this mess, First I'll talk about the different engine choices, and then I'll talk about head swapping choices and its benefits. I'll get into the pros and cons of each to help YOU decide which choice is wise for you according to your courage, budget and power needs.

First off I need to mention a few things. When looking for your possible swap candidate, have a plan and research EVERYTHING. Find out as much info from as many sources as you can find. Now when putting $$$ aside for the swap, put aside as much as the components costs (Engine, transmission, etc), add shipping if necessary, then add atleast $1000 for small extra parts you might need and/or broken parts on the engine (PCV valves, distributor core, AC bracket, axles, shift linkage, new polyurethane mounts, etc), and finally calculate how much you’ll need to replace all the high wear components: Timing belt, plugs, oil pump, clutch, etc. Believe me, it’ll cost ALOT less to replace them now than if they break after you’ve installed the engine. You should buy the helms manual for the engine you plan to get to get a complete run down of all the technical stuff. AND before I forget, remember that your stock cooling system will most likely need to be upgraded in one way or the other to cool the new bigger engine. And plan on the safe side to be without the car for atleast 2 weeks. It shouldn’t take more than a weekend of work but something ALWAYS goes wrong. As we Hispanics say: “Dress yourself in patience” and expect the worst and you’ll be fine. :)

As for exactly what you need to complete the entire swap, unfortunately it changes slightly with each engine considered, which is why it’s extremely important to research exactly what you need, but here’s the general list:

1. Engine and all components attached to the engine. Cylinder head, alternator, distributor, AC pump if necessary, P/S pump if necessary, etc.

2. Transmission: It doesn’t necessarily have to be the tranny that came with the engine but you need to get atleast a transmission that will bolt up to the block. All transmissions of the same letter series tranny’s should bolt up like stock. At this point it would an excellent time to decide if you’d like to change your transmission from automatic to stickshift or vise versa. There are other threads available in the Civic FAQ that could help you with that.

3. ECU: It’s a vital link in the whole project and most of the times completely looked over. If you plan to swap the head of your engine, you need the ECU of the head you’re swapping in.

4. Shift Linkage: These rods connect the shifter knob to the transmission. Without them you couldn’t shift the tranny. They aren’t necessary with every swap but most of them do need them.

5. Axles: Makes sense that you need the axles that fit the transmission. They’re all different for each swap unfortunately. The axles that came with the engine aren’t going to necessarily work with your civic suspension. Research.

6. Mounts: Most of the swaps don’t need fabricated mounts but they do need the mounts that came with the engine. The H22 and F22 engines are different in that they need custom mounts from places like HASport or Place Racing.

7. Optional, Performance exhaust: Your stock exhaust, particularly your stock catalytic converter will act as a cork to your newfound power. Replacing it with a high performance exhaust will let the engine breathe at the very least to stock specs. In some cases however, the down pipe on the engine won’t match up perfectly with your catalytic converter. In which taking a trip down to the local muffler shop and making a custom exhaust system would be in order.

8. Fuel Pump: For some of the larger swaps, particularly the 2.2 liter series, the stock civic fuel pump will not be enough to meet the needs of the new engine. At the very least you need the pump of the engine you’re getting. If not get an upgraded aftermarket pump.

Two things that are very important that I need to discuss before we get into each engine are the Rod to Stroke ratio and OBD.

The Rod to Stroke ratio: This topic gets very complicated very quickly. Basically it’s the ratio of how long the rod is compared to the length of the entire rod stroke. The perfect ratio is 1.75. If the ratio is off, it means that the rod is not using 100% of it’s momentum to compress the air and gas mixture. It’s using more energy to push against the sides of the cylinder walls than to compress the fuel mixture. This is normally not too bad because things are very well lubricated in your engine. But when you change certain aspects of the engine, in particular increasing the ECU fuel cutoff point or going forced induction, the imperfect R/S ratio will cause more stress on the engine block and could eventually destroy it. A good R/S ratio also ensures long engine life. For a more in-depth look into the R/S ratio check out the following site: http://victorylibrary.com/tech/crod-c.htm

OBD stands for On Board Diagnostics. Most every modern car has a version of OBD and it’s basically an engine monitoring system. It consists of many different sensors in strategic locations that monitor various aspects of the engine’s performance. Some examples of the sensors are O2 sensors that monitor the air to fuel mixture, the throttle position sensor that senses how open the throttle plate is at any given moment, and intake temperature sensor that monitors the temperature of the intake air. All of these sensors are monitored by the ECU, the car’s brain monitors the OBD system and changes variables according to pre-programmed specifications. There are currently 3 versions of OBD and each version gets progressively more complex and stricter on the amount flexibility it will allow before taking action to prevent what it sees as a potentially engine damaging situation. OBD1 started with the 5th generation civic 1992-1995. OBD2 continued with the 6th generation 1996-2000 and the latest version is OBD3 and can be found on the 7th gen. civic 2001-???.

NOW, Let’s get to the engines starting with the smallest and cheapest candidates:

D16Z6, D16Y8, D15B7: If you have one of the lower and cheaper civic models, IE The Cx, Dx, Lx and If you're looking for a cheap power increase while still maintaining stock gas mileage then the possibility of swapping in one of the higher model civic engines is right up your alley. The D16Z6 is the SOHC 5th Gen. Si and Ex engine pushing 125hp @ 6600 rpm and 106 lb.-ft of torque @ 5200 rpm. The D16Y8 is the 6th gen. SOHC Ex engine pushing 127hp @ 6600 rpm and 107 lb.-ft of torque @ 5500 rpm. These are extremely easy to find since allot ppl swap them out in favor for more expensive engines. They bolt in like stock and the whole package could be had for hundreds (You might even find someone who’s recently swapped who would basically give away their engine). Let's say you want something cheap but you could work on for possibly turbo or nitrous? The D16Y8 is cheap and the pistons are the exact size of TT Supra pistons. They could substitute for forged versions and work just as well for a turbo upgrade. Be warned though as the D16Y8 has a particularly bad Rod to Stroke ratio at 1.52. I also suggest the B15B7 which is the 5th gen. Dx and Lx engine pushing 102hp @ 5900 rpm and 98 lb.-ft of torque @ 5000 rpm. If you have a 5th gen. Cx and you’re in need of the cheapest upgrade, this motor could be for you. Again you could probably find it for less than $500.

B16A1, B16A2, B16A3: If you need a little more power and have the money, the Civic Si and the del Sol VTEC engine are possibilities. They are all DOHC 1.6 liter engines pushing 160 hp @ 7600 rpm and 111lb.-ft of torque @ 7000 rpm. The A1 is the pre-obd engine that came with a cable transmission and various other pre 5th gen. items that need to be dealt with when considering the swap. The reason I point this out is because all 5th and 6th gen. civics came with hydraulic tranny's so think twice about this one. The upside is the cheap price. The A3 is the OBD1 engine out of the del Sol Vtec. These older models can be had for cheaper than OBD2 models and have upgraded various things such as hydro trannies. These are a perfect choice for the 5th genners. The A2 is the 99-00 Si engine. Same as the A3 only this one came with an upgraded OBD2 emissions system that is mandatory for all 96+ civic swappers. The B16A1 could be had for around $1200. The B16A3 could be found for about $2000-$2500 and the newer B16A2 could be found for around $2500-$3000.

They all lack a sufficient amount of torque due to their small displacement but their small mass and a bad ass R/S ratio of 1.74 allows them to rev to astronomical proportions. They also all have a HUGE aftermarket support. The only thing I don’t like about this particular swap is that this seems to be only one ppl think of. Whenever they want to swap engines, they all go for the B16. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a great engine but there are other engines out there to consider. I’ve even known ppl to be disappointed because they expected more. That’s what this article if for :)

B16B: Often regarded as the best 1.6 liter engine in the world, the JDM Civic Type R engine is the rarest of them all. Producing a whopping 185hp @ 8200 rpm and a reasonable 120 lb.-ft of torque @ 7600 rpm and being naturally aspirated, it is technical marvel. It was only available on the 1999-2000 Civic Type R and having one imported will run you easily into the $6000+ range. But you will be WELL respected and large thief magnet when ppl find out. If you have the money and like spending it on high octane gas for your 4 banger, why not?

B17A, B18B1: The B17A could be found on the 92-93 GSR producing 160hp @ 7600 rpm and 117 lb.-ft @ 7000 rpm. The B18B1 is the later model Integra LS, RS, and GS engines. They don't offer huge power outputs at 142hp @ 6300 rpm and 127 lb.-ft @ 5200 rpm, But they can be had for very cheap as they are plentiful and not really sought after by many ppl. The exception being for the B17A as it did have greater power output but they can still be had for cheap as they are generally older and in worse shape compared to the newer B18’s. Anyone of these should still offer a cheap, reliable power upgrade for your small civic. Anyone of these engines could be found for under $2000. The downside to these cheaper engines is their Rod to Stroke ratio. The B17 isn’t that bad but the B18B1 has a R/S ratio of 1.54. This does considerably reduce the maximum possible power output from these engines. But if you don't plan on turbocharging this engine past 15 psi or letting it rev to 11,000 rpm, then it should meet your modest power needs.

B18C1: Probably the most highly sought after swap candidate, this powerful little engine came on the late model Integra GSR and produced a hefty 170hp @ 7600 rpm and 128lbs-ft @ 6200 rpm. It is rather expensive at around $3000-$3500 and they are a little on the rare side considering everyone wants one, but a simple swap and your pocket rocket will be pushing high 14's with a stock engine. Even more by adding the small bolt-ons. And greddy has a bolt on intercooled turbocharger kit that'll give around 240 wheel hp. Which should put you deep into the 13 second range, possibly high 12's. This is the most desired swap candidate.

B18C5: This naturally aspirated wonder came on the late model Integra Type R and produced an even greater 195 hp @ 8100 rpm and about 130 lb.-ft of torque @ 7500 rpm. This is even more highly sought after than the GSR engine. And would in fact be more popular if it wasn't for its $5000+ price tag. But if you could afford it, there are few engines that would be as painless and give you the fastest performance available for the civic. This regarded as the naturally aspirated wonder because it does well producing large amounts of power without the need for snailshell's. Although a turbocharger can be bolted on to this bad-boy, it's generally not recommended, as this is a very high compression engine. If you were to used forced induction on such a high compression engine, you would either have to build it accordingly, have a REALLY good engine management system ($$$) or watch it blow up on the first run. The C1 is better suited for forced induction and would cost less in the long run.

B20B, B20Z: The B20 engine is the newcomer in the game and is highly acclaimed by its supporters. It has several key characteristics that give this engine real potential no matter what route you decide to persue. The B20B came on the 1996-1998 CRV and the B20Z came on 1999-2000 CRV. The B20B made 126 hp but the real jewel was the 133lbs of torque that was easily achieved almost anywhere in the RPM band. It is a small displacement engine that has flat torque line!!! Additionally it was a comparatively low compression engine which means that turbocharging to decent levels is possible without the need to spend hundreds on rods or pistons. The B20Z was more or less the same as the B20B but they changed several head characteristics and the compression was bumped up to increase the horsepower to 146.

There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.

Unless you’re simply happy with the stock B20 swap, the only reasons it should be considered are CRVTEC conversions or Forced Induction. The aftermarket support isn’t as plentiful for the B20 as it is for the other engine mentioned so any engine upgrades usually come from other B series or upgraded aftermarket parts for other B series. Which is more less slowly building a CRVTEC engine. But I still highly recommend this engine for the best bang for the buck power adder. Here’s a techy article on the B20 for you: http://www.theoldone.com/archive/crv-b20b-info-n-rod-stroke-ratio.htm

H22A1, H23A1, H22A4: The H23A1 came on the lude Si’s, the highly acclaimed H22A1 came on the 4th gen Si VTEC models and H22A4 came on the 5th generation Si VTEC’s.. And all three engines are MONSTERS compared to what we’re used to. The H22A1 produces a nice 190 hp while the H22A4 produces an even greater 195hp and the H23A1 produces 160hp but they all produce a THICK ASS 160 lb.-ft of torque at relatively low rpm. Giving your 2500lb civic wheel spinning capabilities comparable to a V8 F-body. The whole engine should cost about the same as a GSR swap, $3000-$3500. The down side is the fact that the engine also weighs about 200 lbs. more than the engine you have in your bay now. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems.

From talks with several veteran H22 swappers I can give you the overall driving opinion. To make the swap work, first off the springs and shocks in the front need to be stiffened to appropriately handle the extra weight. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. There is another way to offset the understeer problem but most ppl don't want to go through with it. It involves placing a few hundred pounds of weight in the trunk to even out the weight distribution. But most ppl want to go the other way by stripping everything out of the interior, effectively making it worse. The cooling system will amazingly enough be fine for about 75% of the time. However, on hot days or with spirited driving, the engine can start to overheat itself. For the financially strapped, an extra wide Integra radiator can be swapped in for about $100 that will provide all the extra cooling you need. You can learn about it here: http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/jsrad/jsrad.html. If you have the extra money, you could swap in an all aluminum thick ass racing radiator with a smaller and more efficient fan and for extra insurance, a low temperature thermostat (160 degree rather than 180) could be replaced. Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating. The braking system for the most part could work but if you really want to trust your life to stock system, be my guest. If you'd like to upgrade it, the cheap way is to replace the rotors for better heat dissipation (You could either get stock sized cross-drilled or slotted rotors, or you could opt for a bigger rotor kit that uses a relocated bracket so you can use the stock calipers) better brake pads and rear brake disk swap if not already equipped (Instructions HERE (http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/brakeswap.html)). If you have some money, you could get a 4-piston caliper upgrade with extra large rotors with great pads. Just the thing to stop you at 150 mph. If you do opt for the bigger rotor upgrade, remember that the stock wheels will no longer fit over the larger brakes. Some systems suggest 16” or larger.

Let me remind you that this is all extra $$$. The basic swap still includes about $1000 worth of junkyard parts just to make it work, which includes axles, linkages, ECU, HASport mounts, etc. PLUS the cost of the engine itself. This is definitely not the cheap swap.


FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ABOUT THE H22 SWAP PLEASE SEE THE FOLLOWING THREAD.

H22 Civic Swap Guide (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=332296)


F20B: This 2.0 liter engine is the rarest of all the swaps. It’s the JDM Accord Si-R engine and it produced a healthy 200hp. The reason I leave this for last is because finding one is like trying to find an unlit cigarette from the 70’s and finding parts for them are even harder. Although not impossible to swap though, it falls under the same category as the H22 swaps. In fact the mounts for swapping the H22 will also work on the F20B. I’ve never personally seen or even heard of this swap done so there has to be a reason for it. I would advise to consider other options.

Ok, So far we've covered the D16Z6, D16Y8, D15B7, B16A1, B16A2, B16A3, B16B, B17A, B18B1, B18C1, B18C5, H22A1 H23A1, H22A4 and the F20B. Talk about choices!!! But we're only half way through. Now we go to the second part of the swapping experience, which is cylinder head swapping. Sometimes called a Frankenstein, engine hybrid, mini-me or LS/VTEC swaps. Head swapping usually includes getting a Non-Vtec block (B18B, D15B) and taking the entire cylinder head assembly from a Vtec enabled block (B18C1, D16Z6) and swapping it onto the Non-Vtec block. Effectively giving the non-Vtec block Vtec capabilities just like his older brothers. Hence the name LS/VTEC. LS for Non-Vtec and Vtec for...Vtec :). It isn't easy though. The Vtec assemblies use oil to activate the system so oil lines will need to be tapped, the block and head need small preparations to flawlessly mate the two and the ECU from the Vtec enabled block will also be needed. So the grocery list includes the ENTIRE cylinder head set and everything attached to it, The intake manifold, throttle body, throttle cable, distributor, Vtec solenoid, EVERYTHING. You will also need the ECU, Vtec oil pump and various other lines and fittings and someone who's done this before. Here’s a great site that gets to the nitty gritty of the procedure: http://www.geocities.com/thelsvtec/

Now this opens up a whole new world of possibilities. But first you need to know the rules before continuing. These are:

1. A SOHC block cannot accept or be modified to accept a DOHC head. It just does not work. Block surface and the bottom of the head are totally different.

2. Only engines with the same letter association have compatible part. IE B-series with B-series and D-series with D-Series.

3. Don't do go cheap with this. This needs to be done right or you're left with an engine that leaks oil, has Vtec engagement problems and possibly valves that smash into pistons.

Head Swapping Cons:

There are of course downsides to mating two engine parts that were not designed to be together and expecting to work together. One of the main problems is that Vtec enabled blocks were designed to rev allot higher than their non-Vtec counterparts. Of the things Honda designed into the Vtec blocks to help them survive high rpm use are oil squirters. Oil squirters serve dual functions both as piston coolers and piston lubricators. Both of which are very important when revving to 9000 rpm. The lack of which could result in damage from prolonged high-rpm usage. Another aspect is that non-Vtec blocks usually have worse R/S ratios making the situation that much worse. The stock oil pump will also need to be replaced as it might not have enough pressure to satisfy both the block lubricating needs and the oil-activated Vtec assemblies. Valve clearance is another issue that needs to be addressed before you not only mate the head and block but also play with cam timing. The valve relief’s in the stock pistons are usually deep enough to accommodate the new longer travel of the Vtec valves but if they aren’t, they need to professionally widened or aftermarket pistons need to be used. And when using camshaft gears to tune cam shaft timing, each setting both 2 and 4 degrees advance and retard need to be tested for valve clearance as well. Failure to do so may cause the valve to crash into the piston when it arrives at TDC (Top Dead Center) which could bend it or chip it which may cause even more damage. Either way the head needs to pulled and repaired.

Head Swapping Pros:

One of the points of swapping in a Vtec head is they usually flow allot better than their non Vtec counter parts. And this can even be improved further with a port and polish. So with that in mind, the best flowing DOHC heads can be rated in this order:

1. B16B
2. B18C5
3. B16A
4. B18C1

The B16B head is by far the best head but it's rather expensive and rare. It's basically a B16A head with a factory P&P and lighter valvetrain assemblies among other things. This goes as well for the Integra Type R head. It's basically a GSR head with a factory port and polish, slighter better and lighter cams, valves, springs, etc. The best compromise for price and availability is the B16 head and the last one the list would be the GSR head. Of course it needs to be said that simply swapping the head onto your engine won't give you all the HP from the engine the head came from. Like swapping an GSR head onto an LS block won’t automatically give you 170hp. There were more changes to the engines than just the head like displacement, compression and air flow tracts. But it's still better than your stock head.

In reality, the majority of your engines power capabilities come from head design. This goes especially for naturally aspirated engines. With each one of these head swaps, you could completely redo all the components in the head to make the HP jump even greater. The exact changes of course depend on if you want to stay naturally aspirated or decide to take the plunge into forced induction. The details of both will be covered on another article. Also between the generations, small changes were made in an effort to produce more power and better mileage. Example, the SOHC head changed from the 5th generation to the 6th gen. In particular the quench area, the area where the compressed air and fuel collect when the piston reaches TDC, was changed to a more squared area. Rather than the circular area on the 5th gens, this new square quench area forces more of the A/F mixture closer to the spark plug which results in a cleaner and more powerful burn. These subtleties can greatly affect the overall power production of your new engine design.

So now, what are your greatest bang for the buck options? Let’s break them down by what engine you have:

D15's: Say you have a Dx or Cx engine, then you could go ahead and swap out the head for a D16Z6 head. You could probably get the whole swap for $300. The 6th geners with Cx’s or Dx’s can swap for a D16Y8 and build that for greater NA or FI power.

B16: Swapping the head on this engine isn’t really necessary since the head is already a top-notch design. What could be done is a head redesign (P&P, Cams, valves) or you could swap it for a B18C5 head, which is better, but not by much. This swap would be more for the WOW affect. Although a turbocharger or supercharger can both easily be installed on this engine and its air flow characteristics let it achieve more than 200 wheel hp.

B18B's: The GSR or B16 head swap would be ideal in these situations. Can also be turbocharged by using the kit designed for the head you swap in. But as mentioned before, the R/S ratio would still be a limiting factor in maximum power output.

B20B, B20Z: Now HERE'S where the real deal is. Since the giraffe intake on the B20B doesn't clear the hood, the head has to be swapped anyways, so you could use any of the choices above as well for the B20Z. My personal favorite, you swap in a B20 with lots of usable torque, then you swap in a modded B16 head and make a few ECU changes, like rev limiter and now you have lots of torque with Vtec high end and an 8000 redline. Or the low compression rate allows for decent turbocharging and you can achieve great heights with the B16 head flow.

H23A1: Generally the swap here is an H23 block with an H22 head swap. It makes for great Vtec high end and the larger displacement block makes for the biggest torque of all the engines listed here.

I could go so many ways in explaining head modification, NA, FI, procedures, Etc. But I tried to stay on subject and this is the civic owner engine swapper’s guide. Please feel free to ask questions or make corrections. :)

Nice post man! Im just kinda bummed that my D16y8 is nothing more than a cheap second rate swap alternative! :D

I do have a question about R/S ratio though. Is it possible to get my engine (1.54 R/S?) closer to the ideal 1.75 ratio? If so, how is this done? Also. is 1.75 always the perfect ratio? (Does it apply for any set up NA or FI?)

Originally posted by Hybrid Boy


same here..... i might wanna go ls/vtec in the future... bu i hear the high revs from the vtec head hurt the ls block


sleeving the block or at least using a block guard should help the sideloading problem out (unless you have the money for custom crankshaft fabrication). the only problem that remains is the oiling problem....b18b blocks dont have the oil squiters vtec blocks have

Originally posted by piscorpio
Nice post man! Im just kinda bummed that my D16y8 is nothing more than a cheap second rate swap alternative! :D

I do have a question about R/S ratio though. Is it possible to get my engine (1.54 R/S?) closer to the ideal 1.75 ratio? If so, how is this done? Also. is 1.75 always the perfect ratio? (Does it apply for any set up NA or FI?)

The only engines discussed that have near perfect R/S ratios are the B16A and B16B. The rest (including the B20) have to be destroked to achieve the numbers. With the B20 what you do is get a crankshaft from a B17 and custom length rods. There you've changed both the rod length and rod stroke length. To do the same to your D16 you need to crunch some numbers and find out how to change the crankshaft (possibly by getting another shaft from another honda) and then figuring out how long the rod needs to be. Like I said, it gets really technical and this case, very expensive. You're more or less designing your own engine dynamics. It'd be alot cheaper to just get a B16. As for the block gaurd, yes this would definitly help. But if you want to make SO much power from that engine that the R/S ratio is an issue to you, the block guard was already neccesary even with a good R/S ratio. Get my point?

Originally posted by piscorpio
Also. is 1.75 always the perfect ratio? (Does it apply for any set up NA or FI?)

Oh yeah I forgot to answer the second part. Yep. For diesel engines, Ford V8's or Hondas, 1.75 is always the ideal number. And the 1.75 ratio lets the engine climb to great rpms (B16) for NA power. And it also lets you boost your engine more without worrying as much about the stress on the rods and pistons. You could essentially boost it higher without getting beefed up rods and not destroying it.

Originally posted by Rice-Rocketeer


Oh yeah I forgot to answer the second part. Yep. For diesel engines, Ford V8's or Hondas, 1.75 is always the ideal number. And the 1.75 ratio lets the engine climb to great rpms (B16) for NA power. And it also lets you boost your engine more without worrying as much about the stress on the rods and pistons. You could essentially boost it higher without getting beefed up rods and not destroying it.

Ah, I see. So I take it you can not change the R/S ratio, due to physical restrictions in the engines design, and stronger rods and pistons are just a way to get around it. R/S ratio is what it is then, and you cant change that, just make the parts stronger? I think I understand it, but correct me if Im wrong.

Nono, As I said in the first post, you can change anything you want about the engine. The only problem is you need to know what you're doing. If you don't, you need to get someone that does and having them fabricate stuff for you will cost you thousands. Now to change the R/S ratio you need to change both the rod length and the rod stroke length. To do this you need to get custom length rods (Not too hard) and you need to have your engine destroked. It's exactly like a stroker kit (And as expensive as well) you get a new crankshaft and various other bearings and things and this new crankshaft needs to be of a specific size. It's all math is what it is. If you can crunch the numbers and figure out what length rods with what crankshaft you need to get the magical 1.75 then you have no problem.

The problem is ppl goto college and spend years around race cars to learn this stuff. Think of this magic number as the point where everything is balanced. When you blueprint and balance an engine, you are relieving stress in a lot of areas because as unbalanced engine reciprocating components climb the rpm range, they get more and more unstable until they exceed the stress levels of the block and destroy themselves. Try to imagine an engine that's missing a piston rev to 10,000 rpm. Now imagine not climbing to 10,000 rpm but strapping a turbocharger onto this unstable engine. As the rpms climb, the extra force on the components will make things MUCH worse. It'll make the engine even more off balance than it was and it'll destroy itself with normal usage.

When you change the R/S ratio, you essentially have an engine that's fully balanced. And when you do that, the stress on other components that are not involved in the power making process is relieved. A fully balanced engine can rev higher and take more boost before engine components exceed thier maximum stress levels. Simply beefing up components on an imperfect engine is only a bandaid. It's not the solution to the problem.

But like I said before, if you're going to squeeze that much power out of your engine that R/S ratio is a concern, then you should be starting with a better base. You only need to worry about the stress the D16Y8's imperfect ratio will create if you plan to make some serious power OR want to keep the engine for 300,000 miles. For your average honda enthusiast, You shoudn't need to worry about such things. Like I argued in some other post, you could do an LS/VTEC swap, do the usual bolt ons and get forged rods and pistons. Rev limit it to 7500-8000 rpm and tune it accordingly, and you'll still have 200 wheel hp from a rather reliable engine. If you plan to make a 500hp dragster then start with a better base.

there are some strange exceptions though. when your goin f/i as you know the most force produced is at bdc of the power stroke....wierd thing though is once you reach about 15psi the force shifts inbetween bdc and 20 degrees before depending on the circumstance.


just thought i would add that

Originally posted by xivera
Uhmm... Cliff notes anyone!? :hehe:

I thought of it but I don't think something likt this should be put into cliff notes. There are a lot of things that need to be known before you seriously consider swapping and ppl would read the cliff notes and then either say "Ok I know enough" or start asking questions that I already answer in here. If they really want to know everything about swapping, then READ. Being lazy will cost you more money. The ppl that are really interested will take the time.

But I know it was just a suggestion, I'm not biting your head off :)

Originally posted by i like naked girls
there are some strange exceptions though. when your goin f/i as you know the most force produced is at bdc of the power stroke....wierd thing though is once you reach about 15psi the force shifts inbetween bdc and 20 degrees before depending on the circumstance.

The culprit is probably the drastic delta pressure changes that the engine experiences under heavy boost. Meaning under heavy boost, the pressure wave probably hits the piston faster than normal which would be 20 degrees before BDC. I've actually been thinking about that.

How fast does the pressure wave move under boost and at which point would the pressure wave ricochet back up. Should the valves close right at BDC or maybe a little after and hope the momentum keeps forcing the air into the cylinder? Or is that strictly an NA thing. Kinda like exhaust scavenging. OR is the pressure moving so fast that by the time the piston hits BDC, the wave has already moved back up to the valves and actually causing intake reversion???

I really need to go to school for this stuff. I love it. :cool:

Originally posted by Rice-Rocketeer
Nono, As I said in the first post, you can change anything you want about the engine. The only problem is you need to know what you're doing. If you don't, you need to get someone that does and having them fabricate stuff for you will cost you thousands. Now to change the R/S ratio you need to change both the rod length and the rod stroke length. To do this you need to get custom length rods (Not too hard) and you need to have your engine destroked. It's exactly like a stroker kit (And as expensive as well) you get a new crankshaft and various other bearings and things and this new crankshaft needs to be of a specific size. It's all math is what it is. If you can crunch the numbers and figure out what length rods with what crankshaft you need to get the magical 1.75 then you have no problem.

The problem is ppl goto college and spend years around race cars to learn this stuff. Think of this magic number as the point where everything is balanced. When you blueprint and balance an engine, you are relieving stress in a lot of areas because as unbalanced engine reciprocating components climb the rpm range, they get more and more unstable until they exceed the stress levels of the block and destroy themselves. Try to imagine an engine that's missing a piston rev to 10,000 rpm. Now imagine not climbing to 10,000 rpm but strapping a turbocharger onto this unstable engine. As the rpms climb, the extra force on the components will make things MUCH worse. It'll make the engine even more off balance than it was and it'll destroy itself with normal usage.

When you change the R/S ratio, you essentially have an engine that's fully balanced. And when you do that, the stress on other components that are not involved in the power making process is relieved. A fully balanced engine can rev higher and take more boost before engine components exceed thier maximum stress levels. Simply beefing up components on an imperfect engine is only a bandaid. It's not the solution to the problem.

But like I said before, if you're going to squeeze that much power out of your engine that R/S ratio is a concern, then you should be starting with a better base. You only need to worry about the stress the D16Y8's imperfect ratio will create if you plan to make some serious power OR want to keep the engine for 300,000 miles. For your average honda enthusiast, You shoudn't need to worry about such things. Like I argued in some other post, you could do an LS/VTEC swap, do the usual bolt ons and get forged rods and pistons. Rev limit it to 7500-8000 rpm and tune it accordingly, and you'll still have 200 wheel hp from a rather reliable engine. If you plan to make a 500hp dragster then start with a better base.

I am so sorry RR, you know I totally overlooked your first reply!! I understand completely what you are saying now. Thanks for writing this thread up man, its kind of opened up a new area of technical info for me, something new to learn about. (which Im always up for)

Originally posted by piscorpio
I am so sorry RR, you know I totally overlooked your first reply!! I understand completely what you are saying now. Thanks for writing this thread up man, its kind of opened up a new area of technical info for me, something new to learn about. (which Im always up for)

Which is why I'm here. No Problem :)

what is the greddy turbo kit you talk about for the b18c. sounds awesomebut i couldnt find it on their website. y6ou have alink or something. if not what kind of price would tha be?
oh yeah awesome post. everything a newbie could want.

good info. so i have a 92 lx (D15 i guess). about how much hp would be produced from swapping a D16Z6 head? is this a more cost effecient mod than i\h\e? thx

and if you all wanted to know you can fit a h22 in a civic i have a 93 honda civic and it can be done been there done it..granted it was some work but trust me you will be suprised on the outcome of the project of the works..custom fab motor mount brakets and was happy with the out come of my project.. and all the work was done at my shop so let me know what you all think

Excelente post but do ha anyinfo on put any engine in to the new gen hondas 01-02 civics:confused:

B16A1, B16A2, B16A3: If you need a little more power and have the money, the Civic Si and the del Sol VTEC engine are possibilities. They are all DOHC 1.6 liter engines pushing 160 hp @ 7600 rpm and 111lb.-ft of torque @ 7000 rpm. The A1 is the pre-obd engine that came with a cable transmission and various other pre 5th gen. items that need to be dealt with when considering the swap. The reason I point this out is because all 5th and 6th gen. civics came with hydraulic tranny's so think twice about this one. The upside is the cheap price. The A3 is the OBD1 engine out of the del Sol Vtec. These older models can be had for cheaper than OBD2 models and have upgraded various things such as hydro trannies. These are a perfect choice for the 5th genners. The A2 is the 99-00 Si engine. Same as the A3 only this one came with an upgraded OBD2 emissions system that is mandatory for all 96+ civic swappers. The B16A1 could be had for around $1200. The B16A3 could be found for about $2000-$2500 and the newer B16A2 could be found for around $2500-$3000.

A couple things that were left out,such as the B16A2 99-00 si is actually OBD IIb,requiring slight wiring to get it in a pre 99 vehicle.
The B16A3 is OBD I until the 96-97 then it is OBD II
The B16A3 will need shiftlinkage from a B series teg/JDM,EDM civic to fit into a civic,since the delsol's is a different shape.
And the compression from the JDM,EDM B16A siRII is higher,resulting in a slightly higher hp rating of around 170.

i have 97 civic ex coupe with the engine code d16y8 and i want to swap jdm b18c into my civic. do i have to do any mod on the wiring with the ecu, especially with the vtec. can u give me more detail about it and one more with the engine mount do i have to replace the engine mount too.
thank u

i got a '98 vtec Civic. What kind of motor/engine do i have? There's a shop within walking distance to my house that does engine swaps and they have a list of all the ones available. Should i keep my engine and just go with regular mods? I'll go with $2k for my budget.

Originally posted by whiteracer
i got a '98 vtec Civic. What kind of motor/engine do i have? There's a shop within walking distance to my house that does engine swaps and they have a list of all the ones available. Should i keep my engine and just go with regular mods? I'll go with $2k for my budget.
Read the post right above yours,same car you have a D16Y8,and you can swap any OBD II B series or H series in with relative ease.But if your motor is good then unless you just have to have a faster car I'd get a turbo for the same price and be faster.

TEAMCIVIC:the GSR you'd also have to add the IAB.You're car is already vtec so you don't have to run any extra vtec wires.And you can use the motors mounts.

well it looks like you know what you are talking about, cars....
knowledge --> a powerful thingie
lets get right to the point
I was doing a research on how to do swap of an h22a into a civic 92-95 I need like step by step guide so if you have any valuable information on that please let me know (links web sites comments)

p.s. i allready got the engine - love it but havent done any work on/with it yet

thanks for any information
and yes if anybody can help, please do so -->thank you all

well it looks like you know what you are talking about, cars....
knowledge --> a powerful thingie
lets get right to the point
I was doing a research on how to do swap of an h22a into a civic 92-95 I need like step by step guide so if you have any valuable information on that please let me know (links web sites comments)

p.s. i allready got the engine - love it but havent done any work on/with it yet

thanks for any information
and yes if anybody can help, please do so -->thank you all



Report

HELLO

I NEED TO KNOW A COUPLE THINGS...HOW IN THE WORLD DO I GET A B18C TYPE R MOTOR...JAP SPEC...INTO MY 95 INTEGRA RS??
DOES THE B18C HAVE SECONDARY BUTTERFLIES???
AND WHAT ABOUT THE VTEC PRESSURE SWITCH???
IT SEEMS NOT TO HAVE ONE!
HELP!!!:bloated:

D15 to D16 v-tec?
or
D15 to B18 non-v-tec?

Originally posted by Rice-Rocketeer
The Rod to Stroke ratio: This topic gets very complicated very quickly. Basically it’s the ratio of how long the rod is compared to the length of the entire rod stroke. The perfect ratio is 1.75. If the ratio is off, it means that the rod is not using 100% of it’s momentum to compress the air and gas mixture. It’s using more energy to push against the sides of the cylinder walls than to compress the fuel mixture. This is normally not too bad because things are very well lubricated in your engine. But when you change certain aspects of the engine, in particular increasing the ECU fuel cutoff point or going forced induction, the imperfect R/S ratio will cause more stress on the engine block and could eventually destroy it. A good R/S ratio also ensures long engine life. For a more in-depth look into the R/S ratio check out the following site: http://victorylibrary.com/tech/crod-c.htm

R/S ratio on hondas has been beat to death and honestly it doesnt really turn out to be that big of a problem the ITR and GSR both have a 1.58 r/s rato and have no problem reving high.



B16B: Often regarded as the best 1.6 liter engine in the world, the JDM Civic Type R engine is the rarest of them all. Producing a whopping 185hp @ 8200 rpm and a reasonable 120 lb.-ft of torque @ 7600 rpm and being naturally aspirated, it is technical marvel. It was only available on the 1999-2000 Civic Type R and having one imported will run you easily into the $6000+ range. But you will be WELL respected and large thief magnet when ppl find out. If you have the money and like spending it on high octane gas for your 4 banger, why not?

Just a Destroked ITR engine with a more aggressive Exhaust cam, and can be had for about 4,600.

B17A, B18B1: The B17A could be found on the 92-93 GSR producing 160hp @ 7600 rpm and 117 lb.-ft @ 7000 rpm. The B18B1 is the later model Integra LS, RS, and GS engines. They don't offer huge power outputs at 142hp @ 6300 rpm and 127 lb.-ft @ 5200 rpm, But they can be had for very cheap as they are plentiful and not really sought after by many ppl. The exception being for the B17A as it did have greater power output but they can still be had for cheap as they are generally older and in worse shape compared to the newer B18’s. Anyone of these should still offer a cheap, reliable power upgrade for your small civic. Anyone of these engines could be found for under $2000. The downside to these cheaper engines is their Rod to Stroke ratio. The B17 isn’t that bad but the B18B1 has a R/S ratio of 1.54. This does considerably reduce the maximum possible power output from these engines. But if you don't plan on turbocharging this engine past 15 psi or letting it rev to 11,000 rpm, then it should meet your modest power needs.

Non VTEC motors take extremely well to high boost apps even on stock motors due to the low compression ratio and increased stroke. And Also can sustain high rpm abuse.


There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.

Unless you’re simply happy with the stock B20 swap, the only reasons it should be considered are CRVTEC conversions or Forced Induction. The aftermarket support isn’t as plentiful for the B20 as it is for the other engine mentioned so any engine upgrades usually come from other B series or upgraded aftermarket parts for other B series. Which is more less slowly building a CRVTEC engine. But I still highly recommend this engine for the best bang for the buck power adder. Here’s a techy article on the B20 for you: http://www.theoldone.com/archive/crv-b20b-info-n-rod-stroke-ratio.htm

Destroking the B20 block defeats the whole purpose of the swap friend of mine did a B20 block B16A turbo modified stock B20 pistons and 12psi made over 300@ the wheels.

The people saying you should put the B17A crank into the B20 block have slowly faded out after seeing the stock 89mm crank is up to the duties of running hard with boost and all motot though the sleeves in a B20 are not the strongest things out there.

H22A1, H23A1, H22A4: The H23A1 came on the lude Si’s, the highly acclaimed H22A1 came on the 4th gen Si VTEC models and H22A4 came on the 5th generation Si VTEC’s.. And all three engines are MONSTERS compared to what we’re used to. The H22A1 produces a nice 190 hp while the H22A4 produces an even greater 195hp and the H23A1 produces 160hp but they all produce a THICK ASS 160 lb.-ft of torque at relatively low rpm. Giving your 2500lb civic wheel spinning capabilities comparable to a V8 F-body. The whole engine should cost about the same as a GSR swap, $3000-$3500. The down side is the fact that the engine also weighs about 200 lbs. more than the engine you have in your bay now. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems.

H22A's have been weighed in comparison to B series engines its 80lbs heavier then a B16 and about 46-48lbs heavier then a B18 so in reality its not all that heavy and the difference isnt much to worry about.

Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating.

most bolt in kits will let you keep your a/c if you wish but you will lose power steering but even then sometimes you can keep it if you get creative with your install.

let me remind you that this is all extra $$$. The basic swap still includes about $1000 worth of junkyard parts just to make it work, which includes axles, linkages, ECU, HASport mounts, etc. PLUS the cost of the engine itself. This is definitely not the cheap swap.

axle wise you use 90-93 integra axles with 90-93 accord intermedite shaft, the shifter and ecu should come with your change over, and the engines arent too expensive unless you want 99-01 model and even then the cost isnt too bad.




Head Swapping Pros:

One of the points of swapping in a Vtec head is they usually flow allot better than their non Vtec counter parts. And this can even be improved further with a port and polish. So with that in mind, the best flowing DOHC heads can be rated in this order:

1. B16B
2. B18C5
3. B16A
4. B18C1

The B16B head is by far the best head but it's rather expensive and rare. It's basically a B16A head with a factory P&P and lighter valvetrain assemblies among other things. This goes as well for the Integra Type R head. It's basically a GSR head with a factory port and polish, slighter better and lighter cams, valves, springs, etc. The best compromise for price and availability is the B16 head and the last one the list would be the GSR head. Of course it needs to be said that simply swapping the head onto your engine won't give you all the HP from the engine the head came from. Like swapping an GSR head onto an LS block won’t automatically give you 170hp. There were more changes to the engines than just the head like displacement, compression and air flow tracts. But it's still better than your stock head.

B16B, B16A and B18C5 are all the same casting heads the B16B and B18C5 have the slight port job from the factory as you mentioned but the B16B just has a more aggressive exhaust cam.

B16B and B18C5, B18C (JDM ITR) have the stronger valve springs which can handle higher RPM's

The B18C1 GSR head is different it uses a 2 plenium intake manifold which has a set of runners or butterflys that open higher in the rpm range after the VTEC cross over. it also has a larger quench area and has more direct cylinder ports.

Usually a B18C1 swap onto any block will result in a high compression ratio because of the quench area. If Doing A LS VTEC and keeping stock pistons i would recomend the B18C1 head. With A aftermarket single plenium B16 style intake manifold and reprogramed ecu.


Good post overall just needed to clear up and correct a few things in it.

You said for crvtec you should use the b20 block and a b16 head? Well later on you rated heads and said the b16b is the best and that the b18C1 is the next best. b16b's are so scarce so if i wanted the next best, would it be better to get another b16 or get the b18C5 and put that head on?

-Ben

could u use these information on swappin in a D16Z6 into a '91 Honda CRX Si?...just want to know...cuz this shit was helpful...and it can be VERY helpful to me for that that kind of swappin i'm plannin on doin...

Originally posted by ivebenjamin
You said for crvtec you should use the b20 block and a b16 head? Well later on you rated heads and said the b16b is the best and that the b18C1 is the next best. b16b's are so scarce so if i wanted the next best, would it be better to get another b16 or get the b18C5 and put that head on?

-Ben B16 head has 10% better flow over the B18c...

Civic Type R (B16b) head is ported and polished etc.

Integra Type R (b18cR) head is also ported and polished etc.


So you figure that out... not rocket science :bigthumb:

Originally posted by sparq
B16 head has 10% better flow over the B18c...


Not true at all.

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/b16vsgsrflowtest.html

B16 head has 10% better flow over the B18c...

http://alaniztechnologies.com/images/b16vsgsrstock.jpg

Not really, now if you are talking percapita (cc vs. cc), then yes since the B16 is a 1.6 and the B18 is a 1.8.

I find irony in that...

Hello,just because you read it on the net,doesn't make it true.

:rolleyes:

Originally posted by sparq
I find irony in that...



:rolleyes:

It is kind of ironic, too bad flow charts have been reproduced by other companies with the same results.

alright, my 92' civic's engine has too many miles on it and its shot. I want to swap it.all of those engines up there help very much but i can get an 89' prelude engine which numbers are i think B20A5 for almost nothing from a friend. could I swap the engine out of the prelude and put it in the civic?

Originally posted by 92' civic sedan
alright, my 92' civic's engine has too many miles on it and its shot. I want to swap it.all of those engines up there help very much but i can get an 89' prelude engine which numbers are i think B20A5 for almost nothing from a friend. could I swap the engine out of the prelude and put it in the civic?
Monumental waste of time, wrong OBD, would need a custom mount kit, shiftlinkage, axles, I wouldn't waste the time, even if the motor was free. Apples and Oranges.

alright thanks. I just recieved another candidate for the engine replacement as a JDM D15B VTEC...are there any special guidlines to follow in installing this engine beceause i dont remember seeing it in the swapping guide?

Much better, since it is a D series, it is a straight drop, provided it is a 92-95 motor. All you really need to put it in is the long block, and you may need to wire vtec depending on what model you have now.

__________________________________________________ __________
There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.
__________________________________________________ __________


You said the whole b20 engine wouldn't clear the hood in a civic, so you would need to get a b16 head anyway. Well would a b18 head clear the hood as well?

Also, when you talk about swapping a b16, is it a b16b or just a b16(a1,2,or 3)?

I mean what i'm trying to figure out is what would be the best, next to best, and so on, with any b series, for a head swap on a b20. Also price ranges would help too. Thanks

You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model.
You can NOT just swap the head, you have to tap and run external oil lines.

which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion.
Swapping a B16 or other vtec head on to a CRV is a CRvtec.

So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75
Um, no

The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.
If you want it to last longer than the first time you hammer it, it is going to cost quite a bit more than this.

You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. crvtec.com is search engine, .www.b20vtec.com is the right website.

so does anyone know any good places online to get an engine? Or does anyone know any shops in the va/md area?

Back to everyone's talk about rod ratio...I want to build a b18b but everyone talks about the bad rod ratio with the b18's being all around 1.54/1.58. So why, if 1.75 is so important, are those guys running 10's by building b18's and not messing with the rod ratio..or are they? They claim to be running the motors around the 10,000 rpm range and you know they are pushing probably 25 pounds, but they dont seem to be having a problem. I am just curious if the .2 liters is worth the stress of the bad rod ratio, or just going with a b16A2 is better. I am not talking about just buildiing a 200hp daily driver, so the motor is going to be going through some abuse. Any advice is appreciated...thanks

Damn that was a sweet post! I just got a 94 civic that I want to tune. How do I find out which engine I have?

Dude you are soooooooo my new motor GOD. Sometimes getting questions answered is hard. You go out where everyone is shooting at questions with a .22 and intorduce birdshot :tongue:

I think its great what your doing, and I commend you. I'm also curious if there is any chace I could get an even more complete version ? Or somehow encourage you to release more 'episodes' if you will, about other areas of tuning. Intake, exhaust, building up the engine, the right turbo kit etc. That would be really really cool.

Thanks for listening.

I didn't find anything in this post about which motor mounts to use, which is the info I need.

I have a second gen B16A going into a '94 VX Civic. Which mounts can I reuse and exactly which other Del Sol VTEC or DC2 Integra mounts and brackets do I use? Honda part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

Hasport's are out of the question...

dont quote me, but at vtr a guy but a B18C in his hatch and he told me he used the stock b series mounts. so if you got a swap, you should have the mounts you need, or you can get them from the del sol vtec. but my friends B16 in his integra(2nd) gen has just the uppers, the rear and one in the front center as mine has 2 in the fron, one on either side, but it could be they switched the mount style from cable to hydro equipped cars.

sorry for the stupid question but what does the R/S in R/S ratio stand for?

rod to stroke ratio, 1.75 is the best for lots of revs, I tihnk it is cuz most of the rods momentum pushes the piston up and not against cylinder walls or something, but i know 1.75 is best, B16a is 1.74, the B16B is too probably.

so is that the (length of the rod)/(length of stroke)?

this artical really helped me with my decision on my engine swap.
i have a 95 honda civic dx, and i went with the b20b engine swap. i am very happy with my decision and hope that more people choose the b20.

whoops, guess i should of taken the time to read the orginal post before i asked dumb questions, sorry

alright..i found B20B which was in the 96-98 CRV's...is it alright if i put it in my car which of course is my name right there or will i have to get a newer car for the systems to work? thanks.

I think skunk2 makes a harnes to plug in the OBD2 electronics inot your OBD1 car, but since with the B20, you still gotta get all other parts, might as well get a 94 or 95 integra intake manifold and then im pretty sure you can use the ecu from an OBD1 (94-95) integra as well. the block has the same sensors in OBD1 as it does in OBD2 i think.

I didn't find anything in this post about which motor mounts to use, which is the info I need.

I have a second gen B16A going into a '94 VX Civic. Which mounts can I reuse and exactly which other Del Sol VTEC or DC2 Integra mounts and brackets do I use? Honda part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

Hasport's are out of the question...
You can use all of your civics mounts (tranny, drivers side, and rear), and rear bracket, but you need to use the B16's two front torque mount brackets (that bolt to the motor) and the civic rubber mounts (that bolt to the underside of the chassis).

were can i find more info on the CRVTEC www.crvtec.com doesnt work anymore.....i am VERY VERY interested in this motor

b20vtec.com

I just looked over it and it is a bit helpful, but this guy's running 12.5:1cr and shooting for 11's, i think he did his 3rd rebuild in under 2k miles. but at fault of a FPR and DFI, and then not enough torque on the headgasket supposedly. I think he revs the shit out of it too though, on a dyno sheet he was complaining about a 8500 fuel cut.

kinda scares me, hopefully 11:1 and proper torquing of bolts w/7k redline will be safe.

:lol2:




- Moderator
www.RateMyHonda.com
Is your honda nice...or rice?
www.RateMyHonda.com

ok..my friend has a stock 94 mustang GT...and i have this 92 civic LX sedan..what would be the best engine that I could i put in it without taking out air or power steering..could i possibly upgrade to beat this thing....or would it probablt be a waste of time beceause its a four door thing?

can put my 1989 2.0si prelude engine in my 2000 civic lx? also would the tranny from the prelude fit. :eek7: i know this is a stupid question but i dont know if it will work because it is obd1. please dont flame me, help me. thanks john. :eek7:

About the swapping of the engines.. I have a D16Z6 in my 93 Civic which runs low tens on the 1/8. Not vey impressive but good enough for me. I also have the money, the parts, and the resources to build a B18C1. My questions are : Which has the better rod ratio when built to all motor specs? And should i invest in the motor i have or the ultimate sleeping Civic with the B18? Because from what I've heard, both engines can make ungodly power. But i want the one that will make the most. I've heard of bulit all motor B18's that are capable of running very very low 10's in the 1/4. I just would like to know what do now before i get too far into the D16 Which in turn will be a wasted project. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

ok, the B series will ALWAYS have more power than the D's when equally built, and as for the r/s ratio for all motor, when boosted it doesnt change. and the B16 is 1.74, B18C 1.58 and B18b/B20B is 1.54, dont know about the D's.

and the four door doesnt weigh too much more than the coupe, no its not a 4 door thing. if you just wanna drop in and go, get the B18C5 wiht bolt ons and youll probably ghit a low-mid 14 when you drive it to its potential, depending on your altitude, if you wana build it you could boost a B18b for about the same price as a B18C5 and youd beat the mustang.

gotta go, ill answer more later maybe.

WILL THE B16 MAKE MORE POWER THAN THE B18? DIDN'T THE b16 COME FROME THE CIVIC ADN THE b18 FROM THE INTEGRA? aND ISN'T THE INTEGRA MOTOR THE KING OF ALL MOTORS? BECAUSE I WANT TO REMAIN ALL MOTOR NO MATTER WHAT. I HAVE HEARED OF TOO MANY FAILURES WITH TURBO HONDA AND ACURA ENGINES. bUT THA IS JUST WHAT I HAVE HEARD. :banghead:

all motor I guess you should go with the H22. or CRVTEC, pretty much pick a large displacemtn base to start with and go from there, but you can bore/stroke a B18 to 2.26 liters if you wanted. and you probably hear those storie from the kids who throw 12 pounds to their stock B16 and wonder why they fucked there engine up.

alrihgt...earlier somewhere on this forum i said that i could get a 89 prelude si engine for free..well im getting the whole car for free beceause the body was damaged soo much and since i know the owner very well..he needs to get it off his property so is it possible to swap it into my 92' civic LX since i have the shiftlinkage and all?

alrihgt...earlier somewhere on this forum i said that i could get a 89 prelude si engine for free..well im getting the whole car for free beceause the body was damaged soo much and since i know the owner very well..he needs to get it off his property so is it possible to swap it into my 92' civic LX since i have the shiftlinkage and all?
Don't waste your time.

well, the 89 lude had the B20A5 right? I guess, seeing as it is a b series, it might go in wihtout too much trouble.

yeaH thats the engine thats in it and it has now wear on it for all for having 115k miles on it..and im not really swapping it to be the fastest thing out there..im just wondering if it is possible and if it has been done before what to expect....and im not worried about wasting my time that much.

ok never mind ..screw putting the old lude engine in the civic..im just gonna keep the lude how it is and use it as a play car..but what about putting a newer lude engine in it... like a H22 or H22A....wouldent my car being a sedan with more weight in the back even the distribution out better then a coup or HB model?

I've come across the opportuninty to buy a crx or a hatchback civic. I'd rather have the crx seeing how they are bad-ass by themselves. My question is if i get the crx should i try and swap the motor with a B16 or the B18 Integra LS motor? I have the resources to get either engine, but i want an all out racer, but something easy to install also. Everything will be added to either engine: intake, turbo, exhaust,etc.... I just want the one that will give the most power while saving some weight. Any help at all will help: links, pics, personal expierences,etc.. Please help. :banghead:

awesome! thanks for the info!

Anyone put a b18c1 into a 6 gen before? I found one from a guy locally for 2500 which has everything i need.

would i have to due any major modifications if i did swap of a b18c5 into a 1995 civic ex. what do i have to worry if i did such a swap. would i loose my ac? do you also know were to find a b18c5 for a good price.

You can keep your AC and it is as easy as plugging it in, if you can get a USDM one with the wiring harness. There are five wires to change, but other than that it plugs right up.

That's alot of damn info. But it helps alot. Would anyone happen to know the R/S ratio on a gsr I'm planning a motor swap and was damn near convinced on a turbocharged, 55-shot LS/Vtec. Untill I read a really bad(good) forum. Theres alot of shit that goes wrong with the frakenstein motor. Should I shoot for the Gsr, turbo and nitrous or what

finnaly someone helps out for once instead of being an ass like other people thanx

You seem to know what you are talking about. I was hoping maybe you could help me. I just swapped my daughters engine D15B7 for a JDM SPEC D15B and i cant get the thing to run right. the JDm motor was a dual carb motor, so i swapped out the intakes and the distributor, but it wont run right i can get it cranked and drive it, but it lacks power and backfires. The timing wont advance or retard when i move the distributor. Any Idea what i did wrong if anything? Please help? Thanks, Paul

.

You seem to know what you are talking about. I was hoping maybe you could help me. I just swapped my daughters engine D15B7 for a JDM SPEC D15B and i cant get the thing to run right. the JDm motor was a dual carb motor, so i swapped out the intakes and the distributor, but it wont run right i can get it cranked and drive it, but it lacks power and backfires. The timing wont advance or retard when i move the distributor. Any Idea what i did wrong if anything? Please help? Thanks, Paul

.
Static time it at the cam gear and pulley. It is probably just a little off, also it could have something to do with the fuel system, since the D15B7 being fuel injected,and the motor you put in being carbed. What else did you do?

hi im a honda freak. i just bought a 1993 civic 4 door .i was hoping their was somewon out their .that knew mabie what type of engine i have in it .its stock .from what i can tell . i know a little about them but not near enoufe ,just wanted to know if it was good or what i had under the hood what horse power it might have , it did come with a cold air in take. i want to make it faster than hell/ if i got to swape engines i will please help me ////////////?????????????:cwm27:

hi im a honda freak. i just bought a 1993 civic 4 door .i was hoping their was somewon out their .that knew mabie what type of engine i have in it .its stock .from what i can tell . i know a little about them but not near enoufe ,just wanted to know if it was good or what i had under the hood what horse power it might have , it did come with a cold air in take. i want to make it faster than hell/ if i got to swape engines i will please help me ////////////?????????????:cwm27:
sPeeK n Spel n0t wurk todae?

I just got a $500 '94 CX and just wanted to put a D16A6 (CRX Si) head and a JDM D16Z6 intake manifold/throttle body on it to keep up with traffic (rated 70hp stock), and to gain some hands-on experience. See, I live in Michigan where the closest thing I get to seeing the import aftermarket is at my local auto zone:screwy:. I have a question; could I just use the distributor and wiring from the A6 or can I just use the stock wires? No V-tec yet. I just want it to be reliable so I can get to school and work, when I find a job. Plus, its cold as $#%! outside! :eek7:. Any feedback will be appreciated.

The main point from earlier was that I will be switching from PGM to MPGM fuel system. (right?)

good post ! have a question I have a 92' Civic dx and I bot a B18B engine no trany . What trans should i use is the 92' tranys ok

good post ! have a question I have a 92' Civic dx and I bot a B18B engine no trany . What trans should i use is the 92' tranys ok
No, you need a B series tranny.

I got a good question for you guys. Ive had a gsr swap for a civic (d series engine, stock tranny etc.) quoted at around 3500 by a local honda dealership (that was for a complete install im guessing it includes more than the engine). What would be a realistic amount of money to save up for a decent b16a swap on a sohc civic coupe? I'm just looking for a good range that would ensure it gets put in right assuming nothing is wrong with the car in its stock form and the engine has no problems itself.

well, the B16 is cheaper than the B18C1, but what year civic, if it is 92+ then you gotta get one with a hydro tranny and it is about 2200 i think for the swap and with install i doubt it would be much cheaper so id go for the B18C1, better to start off big.

Can anyone explain exactly what/where the piston oil squirters are in a B-series VTEC block? Any pics would be awesome too, thanks!

if you were to take out your engine and put it on a stand, roll it over so that the heads is closest to the ground, take of your opil pan, and look at the bottoms of the bores, they are right there, and they are a little copper pipe looking thing that are bent towards the bottom of the piston. I know ive seen a pic but cant remember, ill take a quick lok and if I find it ill post it

What would be better for my car a b16 or a b18. also i am a little confused when i hear b16, bc1 and so on. Also with the b18 what is the main difference after the numbers. is the motor newer or something. however, what would be the best swap for my car the b16 or b18. i want it to be fast and possible later on turbo charge it. but i just want a dohc motor right now. but i just want to get the best one right now. plus where can you get such motors for a good price or does any one have either or that they might want to sell.

What would be better for my car a b16 or a b18. also i am a little confused when i hear b16, bc1 and so on. Also with the b18 what is the main difference after the numbers. is the motor newer or something. however, what would be the best swap for my car the b16 or b18. i want it to be fast and possible later on turbo charge it. but i just want a dohc motor right now. but i just want to get the best one right now. plus where can you get such motors for a good price or does any one have either or that they might want to sell.
If you took the time to read through the seven pages of info provided to you free of charge, then you would probably not be asking these questions.

My son just blew the engine in his 99 EX (d16y8?). I'm thinking of helping him replace it with something that has more "spunk" to it. I don't want to make it too complicated. Prefer to keep the same manual transmission, etc.

Any recommendations? Replacement engine should be something readily available from a quality rebuilder.

Thanks. Last time I was under a hood was to modify my 1971 Mustang fastback and that was a lot of years ago!!!!!

My son just blew the engine in his 99 EX (d16y8?). I'm thinking of helping him replace it with something that has more "spunk" to it. I don't want to make it too complicated. Prefer to keep the same manual transmission, etc.

Any recommendations? Replacement engine should be something readily available from a quality rebuilder.

Thanks. Last time I was under a hood was to modify my 1971 Mustang fastback and that was a lot of years ago!!!!!
Get him a GSR motor (B18C1), about 3400 shipped, from a reseller. They don't rebuild them, they import them from Japan.

If you want a US version, I would suggest giving www.importautosalvage.com a look, they are good people have some of the cleanest motors I've ever seen shipped, and are very helpful. I would call them and see what they can get you.

As far as the swap, it is pretty straight forward remove and replace, some small mods are needed in the way of wiring, but those can be addressed once you have actually started on the project.

but if you really wanna keep your same tranny etc, then go with a stock replacement because the EX engine is already about the most powerful D series you could bolt to your tranny, and no wiring issues at all.

Could someone please help. I recently purchased a 1992 civic cx hatchback 5-speed. The head gasket was blown and after tearing the head off the motor, it was in worse shape than i expected so know i am looking for a motor. http://www.nippon-motors.com/honda.htm has a list of motors, one of which is listed as a "92-95 Civic, Del Sol, D15B2, SOHC, 16 Valve, 92HP, 24mm Crank snout D15B 1.5 $395 ". is this motor a direct replacement for my motor(and will it bolt to my tranny?)? I see the horsepower number is different and I have no knowledge of honda's at all. I am only looking for a simple replacement that requires no modifications as this is a secondary car used primarily for interstate travel to and from work everyday so performance is not an issue but gas mileage and reliability is. If anyone has any idea where I can get a motor for this car other than the site I listed I would really appreciate it, I am trying to pick up a motor for under 500 bucks if possible. thanks.


AC

well, you could look under your hood and se your engines code, its by where the engine bolts to the tranny a bit above the slave cylinders location. I bet it is the D15B?

also if you are getting one that says D15B2 then it isnt from japan as far as I know, I think JDM engines only say D15B, B18B, B18C, B16A, etc. no number at the end like in the USDM cars.

at least you are getting the right year's engine, then you should have no problems at all, and if it is d series it will bolt up to your tranny no matter if it was D16Z6 or Y8 or whatever but it is the wiring that you have to worry about but since you are looking at the OBD1 engine then you shouldnt have to worry about your ECU or harness or anything like that.

well, you could look under your hood and se your engines code, its by where the engine bolts to the tranny a bit above the slave cylinders location. I bet it is the D15B?

also if you are getting one that says D15B2 then it isnt from japan as far as I know, I think JDM engines only say D15B, B18B, B18C, B16A, etc. no number at the end like in the USDM cars.

at least you are getting the right year's engine, then you should have no problems at all, and if it is d series it will bolt up to your tranny no matter if it was D16Z6 or Y8 or whatever but it is the wiring that you have to worry about but since you are looking at the OBD1 engine then you shouldnt have to worry about your ECU or harness or anything like that.

My motor is a d15, the problem is the number after it. I don't know the difference between a d15b7 (which i think is mine) and a d15b2(i could be completely wrong about this). I guess, like you said, since they are both the same series it should bolt right up. What could be different to effect the horsepower rating though. This new one lists as like 90 something hp, where as a stock 92 civic cx is supposed to be like 75 hp. I guess it doesn't matter since obd1 isn't very strict anyway, the ecu should run fine?

it's a d-series motor, everything is the same except for minor differences that will equate to the horsepower difference. The motor will drop straight in and bolt right up.

it's a d-series motor, everything is the same except for minor differences that will equate to the horsepower difference. The motor will drop straight in and bolt right up.

thanks a lot for the info. This message board has been a huge help to a newbie like me. One last thing, do you think my stock tranny would be ok with about a 20 hp increase? I've heard the civic 5-speed's are really strong, but this one has 214,000 miles on it.

yah, aslong as you have a good clutch and the synchros and gears are in good condition, i.e. not a lot of grinding etc. you'll be fine.

cool....guess that's what i'm going to go with then. 395+shipping doesn't sound too bad to me (but I don't know that much about it), and then again i'm used to v8 motors. I don't guess i can do anything with my stock motor, really the only thing wrong with it is the head......still has hone marks in the cylinders. 214,000 is a lot of miles though. anyway, thanks a lot for the help

you could just try getting a headgasket for 60 bucks and have the head surfaced and see if it fixes it, if not you are only out another huindred bucks, but you saved a few hundred if it works.

no....the previous owner ran it for a while with the gasket blown. Water got all in the ports, valves are rusted and pitted. I'd need a whole new head assembly, and i'm not familiar with sohc motors so i'd prefer to not try and mess with cam timing and all. I figure I'm looking at 200 at least to get a new head assembly and everything to install it, might as well go another 200 and have a whole engine. Might be able to do something with my stock bottom end to recover a little of that cost also......sell it for scrap metal at the very least.

ok, well, the engine you are getting is used so the head isnt going to be like new on that one, and when you buy a used engine you should replace the timing belt on it anyways so then you are going to have to mess wiht the cam timing, realy easy though, there is a mark on the crank pulley that you line up with a couple bumps on the timing cover, then you put the cam gears up arrow pointing up and you put on the belt, rotate it CC a little bit and tighten tensioner.

but if your valves are rusted/pitted real bad then I would go with the new engine because most places have start up guarantees and a warranty that all sensors work and stuff like that. and im sure you know but you can flush the cooling system and change the oil a ouple times and both systems would be clean and back to normal.

well....i just had a monkeywrench thrown in the whole thing. A buddy of mine called me today and said he found a motor. guy wrecked a 93 civic in the rear........wants to sell the whole car for 200 bucks, my friend cranked it up today....motor has 100k on it. not sure what i'd do with a wrecked 93 civic body though.....i guess it's worth it just for the tranny though huh? oh well, things always get complicated. Oh, and thanks for the timing info.....definately sounds easier than i thought it would be.

is it the same body style as yours? if so then id definately get it. how bad is it wrecked? even if it isnt a hatch it would still be a good deal since stil alot changes over.
also , if it is a hatch, wanna off the dash,door panels,headliner and seats????

I'll let you know as soon as I go see it.

I'm a new comer to the imports and dont realy now to much. I saw the post and i learned alot. what i want to know is will all those engines mentioned fit in a 95 honda civic EX? and if yes I found a H22A 2.2L 205H for 2100$ can that be used on the stock tranny or will I need to beef that up to? thanks.

no, the H22 will not bolt up to your tranny. You have a D series motor and tranny, so any D series motor or tranny can be mixed and matched and they will bolt up to each other and drop right in. The H22 has to be mated to an H series tranny. The same goes for the B and F series motors and trannies.

ok thanks, Ill probley just go with the B16A2 than I found one for 2k is that a good deal?

if it is the complete swap I would say it is.

Yes it is a complete swap. Thanks for the Info.

how long did it take u to type the thread!!! crap that is a lot of reading i would have to catch up on.

unfortunately, the creator of this thread left a long time ago.....he was hella cool, along with a bunch of other OG members that decided to leave a while back.

thxxx

Do you guys know which B16A head he is talking about, there are like atleast 2 of them in the US. So answer if you can. :evillol:

B16A2 Civic Si
B16A3 delSol VTEC

BTW, I don't know if it's been said here, but ANY motor stamped B16A1 is a 89-91 Euro motor, and it has 150 HP, from the CRX/Civic 1.6i VT.

I have a question, could u put a s2000 engine into a civic hatchback and make it into a FR?(Idk the engine number)

I have a question, could u put a s2000 engine into a civic hatchback and make it into a FR?(Idk the engine number)
Sure can. Got cash coming out of your butt?

If i had the cash, that's what i would try to do. I'd imagine there aren't too many Civics running an S2000 engine along with rwd. Imagine the fun...

I have a question, could u put a s2000 engine into a civic hatchback and make it into a FR?(Idk the engine number)

You can do anything as long as you have the money.
If i had the cash, that's what i would try to do. I'd imagine there aren't too many Civics running an S2000 engine along with rwd. Imagine the fun you'd have.

i have a civic with no motor or trans. i was thinking about doing the B18c1 GSR swap. Where could i find that Greddy bolt-on intercoold t-charger? Thanks for that post that really helped my decide.

i have a civic with no motor or trans. i was thinking about doing the B18c1 GSR swap. Where could i find that Greddy bolt-on intercoold t-charger? Thanks for that post that really helped my decide.
www.turbodepot.com or www.turbokits.com check out rev hard on that site..

i know that this is a little off topos, but i just want to say to anyone out there considering an h22 swap into a civic, Dont! at first it seems great, alot of hp relativly cheap, and all you need are engine mounts and a weight reduction, right? well not really. the problem is with the way the h22 sits. on d and b series motors, the weight of the block leans forward, and the structure of the car is designed to handle that weight. the h22 on the other hand leans slightly rearward, and is alot heavier. this not only leads to balance issues, but also ones with suspunsion. so i highly advise against anyone doing this type of swap. unless youre job is harvesting the money tree in your front yard.

so is a b18c1 gsr engine a vtech or nonvtech engine please help me out

thanx paul walker

B18C's are vtec.

the A's/B's are non vtec.

and a kid I met a while ago had a H22 in his hatch and didnt complain aboput anything like that, just said it is FUN to drive.

so is the ls engine a vtech or nonvtech and if it isnt a vtech then could a b18c1 head work better then a b16a

thanx paul walker

first of all lose the h, were not talking about phones here.

USDM:

90-91 integra B18A 130 HP non VTEC
92-93 integra B18A 140 HP non VTEC
92-93 integra GSR B17A 160 HP VTEC
94+ integra B18B 142 HP non VTEC
94+ integra GSR B18C1 170 HP VTEC
97+ ITR B18C5 195 HP VTEC


the B16 is VTEC and has 160HP.

and it is said the B16 head is better cuz you cant put a B16/ITR manifold on a GSR head and the ITR/B16 manifolds flow better because of less surface area or something like that.

Awesome article. Really appreciate it. My 93' Civic with a D15B7 is crying for some sort of power increase. But, you don't wanna hear my life story. Thanks again

How much trouble would it be to put an obd0 b16a in my 96 civic?

too much, are you wanting to put in the cable tranny as well?

not to mention it is illegal.

What r ur thoughts of a B18C block w/ a B16 head?
I read thru the first post and didn't see it mentioned ..
BTW it'll be in a 91 hatch...

Hey im getting a 93 - 95 Civic....i have a few to choose from so whichevers in better condition,but im planning to swap the engine when i get it.I can get a 96 integra gsr engine,but i can get my hands on a 02 RSX typeS engine too.i know anythings possible with money but being no millionare.Is it possible to swap to the RSX K20C engine without have to do much work.like basically all i need to know is will the engine mounts need to be fabricated,will the tranny line up,or should i not bother and go for the gsr engine.the rest ill research myself,talk to mechs and such,i just dont want to go through alot of trouble to find it wont work thanks? :)

what would it take to put an F22B1 from a 94-97 accord EX which is a SOHC @.@ liter V-TEC with 145Hp and about 141FTLB or torque into a 92 civic ? i have the car ready to go and the mottor is just sitting in my shop.. ive never heard of this awap before so are there any mounts? what transmissions will bolt up to the block?anything special that i would have to do other than wiring the v-tec and all that good stuff? any info would help out...thanks

I just recently purchased a civic hatch CX model because they tell me it's light weight however the engine sucks. So I need to swap it out. I would like most people preffer the B16A engine. The problem is can I do the whole swap including labor for under $3500 also my other problem is there a way to be legal and pass smog checks. I really need help in this situation. Im tired of gettting spanked by other hatchbacks even though i already put a full cat-back exhaust system and cold air induction.

i think you had it wrong about the D16Z6, its the one that has 127HP@7200RPM not the D16Y

Hey im getting a 93 - 95 Civic....i have a few to choose from so whichevers in better condition,but im planning to swap the engine when i get it.I can get a 96 integra gsr engine,but i can get my hands on a 02 RSX typeS engine too.i know anythings possible with money but being no millionare.Is it possible to swap to the RSX K20C engine without have to do much work.like basically all i need to know is will the engine mounts need to be fabricated,will the tranny line up,or should i not bother and go for the gsr engine.the rest ill research myself,talk to mechs and such,i just dont want to go through alot of trouble to find it wont work thanks? :)
Hasport makes mounts. Do a search online for a few write ups on the swap.

what would it take to put an F22B1 from a 94-97 accord EX which is a SOHC @.@ liter V-TEC with 145Hp and about 141FTLB or torque into a 92 civic ? i have the car ready to go and the mottor is just sitting in my shop.. ive never heard of this awap before so are there any mounts? what transmissions will bolt up to the block?anything special that i would have to do other than wiring the v-tec and all that good stuff? any info would help out...thanks
It'd be similar to putting in an H22 (even the same mounts). Do a search on it and you're sure to find something. Especially search for the pinout, because chances are the wiring is a little different.

i think you had it wrong about the D16Z6, its the one that has 127HP@7200RPM not the D16Y
Nope the d16z6 has 125hp and the d16y8 has slightly more hp at 127hp.

I'm putting a b16a into my 97 civic ex and i need a new a/c compressor. is there any way i can use the d16y8's a/c compressor if i get the b16a bracket for a 95 del sol (DOHC VTEC)?
when i called hmotorsonline, they told me it would, but i just need to make sure.
also... is there anything else that i should know about when doing this swap?
i've already got an OBD2-OBD1 wiring harness from boomslang.us as well as many new parts for the motor. but i'm not quite sure how to wire all of it up and then how this whole air conditioning thing is going to work.

that was some cool stuff, it was like being in discovery channel, but for cars....

anyways, I have a 93 del sol and was thinking of engine swap, but the problem was i didnt know what to get, until i read this post. My first thought was just a Bseries swap, but the as i read on i figured the CRVtech thing is really cool, meaning its affordable and gives you a modest amount of power, but my question is, how much does it cost in total for the engine swap with the b16 head?

Thanx for the info

I found your post about Engines and Head-swap'n to be very informative, and also very exciting. I plan on doing a D16Z6 head swap on my D15B7, and you have encouraged my intrest in going along with this procedure more. Thanks.

so... anyone know anyone who's done a K20A engine swap to a 92-00 Civic? if you do, tell me cuz i'm really interested!

Hasport makes the mounts for them already, hope you have the cash to drop on a K20

how much is it?

www.hasport.com and www.hmotorsonline.com look for yourself

i was think on put the B1.8A1 in my 95 honda Civic cx wondering about this swap motor mounts and what else i might have to do anyhelp would be great

Wow! I was looking for some info. on engine swaps and I guess I found the right place! This helped me a lot. Thanks for the post!

I think the main post at the beginning should be edited to let people know that the H22a doesn't weigh a ton more than the B-series motors. And that it's the way the motor leans that causes the understeer. I didn't realize it was still in the post until I just read this again. It's a complete myth that has gone as far as being published in magazines and books, we should end the misinformation here.

Sorry if this has already been asked, but im looking all over and can't find any info on places that sell D16Z6 motors.

Anyone know a place that sells them? Only place i've found them is eBay so far

www.hmotorsonline.com you have to call them about it though. Or your local junkyard, I'm sure you'll be able to find one if you look around your local junkyards.

nearest junkyard is like an hour away half way to Ventura ><

Ouch, well, best bet would be hmotors then. Good people and good service. And they carry motors that aren't listed on their site, they just have the more popular ones listed there.

I know a cople of places where they sell engines in Ca off I-57 and I-91


I have a friend that gave me a D16Z6 engine and I want to put it in my 95 honda civic that has a D15B7. the engine is complet to include the manifolds, and all. now my question is, do I need to change the ECU and how do I do it? or what ealse do I need? is it worth it? I dont realy want it for racing or anything like that but I would like a lil more power going up the Hill.

The ECU is on passenger side, pull up the carpet on the side with the door. Take off the metal bracket thing that holds it in. Unplug the plugs and that's it. You'll also need to run wires for VTEC. 2 to the ECU and 1 for ground, check this link out: http://www.hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

We've come to the conclusion that if you're going cheap, get a Del Sol ECU, if you want to go all out on an ECU that can live on vicariously through your progression of Honda tuning, get the Hondata ECU... Oh yeah, and a note from Beta_Wolf, "GET A B18!!! >=)"... He's crazy, he'll swap a B18 into anything... alpha_wolf out.

I have read this whole section and i did not see anything about doing a b18a swap in the civic is it possible and how hard would it be?

I have read this whole section and i did not see anything about doing a b18a swap in the civic is it possible and how hard would it be?

Well as many people have said anything is possible (within reason).

here is a b18c, but i am assuming if this works for a swap the b18a will work just as well.

http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_product.aspx?prod_id=11

if you scroll down it shows what it fits. so i say go for it.

:eek7: Swapping in Type R engine isn't the same as swapping in an old LS motor. The B18a is a OBD0 motor that comes with a cable tranny.

But yes you can swap a b18a into your Civic. You'll need to convert it to OBD1 and either get a hydraulic tranny or get the conversion from hasport. If you can't find any info on this swap, search for the b16a SiR ('88-'91) swap and just skip thru the vtec wiring. Also check with your state on whether it's legal for you to swap in an older engine into you car. Some states don't care, but others do (like Cali).

:eek7: Swapping in Type R engine isn't the same as swapping in an old LS motor. The B18a is a OBD0 motor that comes with a cable tranny.

didnt mean for it to sound as the same swapping, but I just assumed that they both would fit.

Oh I gotcha. Yeah any b-series will fit in wih no problem (other than maybe the old b20something Prelude motor).

ok, so you made the perfect thread. lol. anyway, i have a 93 hatch with a 92hp engine. slow slow slow. what engine would bolt directley up with the current tranny which is stock, and give me more power. i know acceleration will be slow still cause the long gears but a little more power would be nice. i also have a budget of like $700, so what can i do? thanks

why don't you go back to the first post and read it again. Your answer is there.

yeah, i already read the first post like 54235124 times... i was just asking specific questions and i also didnt see anything at all about using a transmission from a vx model with a different engine like the 130hp d15b or the d16z6 or z1 or whatever it is. i have the the 1.5l vtec. 92hp engine with. sorry if i missed it. it is just easier for me to ask specificly about my car.

I already told you in your own thread. You can use the VX transmission on a d15b or d16z6. For the most parts (can't think of any exceptions) any d-series transmission will bolt up to any d-series engine block.

yeah, sorry guys, i didnt mean to repeat myself, just like to be reasurred. i forgot to ask if there is anything else i will need to do to make a d series swap work for that. like wiring or anything? swaping out a d15z1 for those of you who dont know. thanks and sorry for the repeat before.

Shouldn't be any wiring since your stock engine was prewired for vtec.

good, so then basicly i take one engine out and put another in like i was just replacing it, soungs good, thanks, and 1 more question, def. last one lol. will all the engine components like the starter, alt. and what about motor mounts too? do things like that off of the d15z1 engine fit on the other d series engines? sorry for so many ?'s

I am in the middle of putting a B16a2 into my 6th Gen Civic, and the only thing i am woried about is the rear mount. I have read that the rear mount on the D16Y is different than on the B16A2, but no one really says what i need, or what the problem is. Is it the Bracket or the Mount? Also, will the wiring Harnes that is in the car compleatly hook up to the B16? I have the OBD2 to OBD1 wiring harnes, but does everything hook up to the engine the same. any info would be great. E-mail me please.

I am in the middle of putting a B16a2 into my 6th Gen Civic, and the only thing i am woried about is the rear mount. I have read that the rear mount on the D16Y is different than on the B16A2, but no one really says what i need, or what the problem is. Is it the Bracket or the Mount? Also, will the wiring Harnes that is in the car compleatly hook up to the B16? I have the OBD2 to OBD1 wiring harnes, but does everything hook up to the engine the same. any info would be great. E-mail me please.
6th gen CIivc with a B series = 99-00 Si rear bracket, you'll have an issue with the altenator, two wire to three wire, or vise versa, I forget, and why do you have an OBD II->OBD I harness? B16A2 should be the 99-00 Si motor and it's OBD IIb.

what about the dohc zc swap

what about the dohc zc swap
It'd fit in with the d16z6/y8 swap, with no vtec.

ook i read all 8 pages and nothing covered this...im getting a 95 ex coupe..blown motor..$200..now if i get it i can get my hands on a b18a1 motor & tranny...does the motor bolt right up..does the tranny bolt right in place... do i need to mess with any of the wiring at all ...is it just plug n play??..please give me a detailed response because i really need to kno ....u dont come across deals like this every day...

The transmission is cable... You'll need a B18B Transmission. Honestly, I'd just go with GSR or B16 Transmission, as they are closer ratio.

However, if you plan on going with boost, the LS Tranmission's gears are wider, thus are better for boost.

Just depends on what you're going for.

-Wes

I want to swap my stock engine for a vtec engine here is what i found looking around for the last few days.I found a type-R B16B DOHC VTEC
190 hp@7600
torque 2116 lb-ft@7300
redline 8200 rpm
displacment 159cc
compression ratio 10.4:1

This alos comes with a type hydraulic transmission

list of parts included
complete motor
block
intake manifold
complete head
sensors
exhaust manifold
fuel rail
injectors
distributor
throttle body
alternator
starter
ignition wires
a/c compressor
power steering pump
headers

obd2 ecu ( computer )

5 speed fwd hydraulic LSD transmission with clutch components assembled to engine

engine mounts

yonaka motorsports drive shafts


I want to know if this would be the best swap for my civic the price on the setup above is 4500.00 plus shipping .I have around 10 k to spend on the motor as of right now i may invest more than this in the future.I will install the motor with friend at his shop to save me the cost .
I want to know what upgrades i should do on the motor first to get the most out of it if someone could help me out here it sure would help me out a lot .
thx guys :banghead:

Don't get the b16b, they are insanely over priced. Go with the b18c1 (especially it's jdm counterpart) and build that up. The b18c has 5 less hp than the b16b (which has 185hp), but has a little more torque. It's also around $1,000 cheaper.

It'd fit in with the d16z6/y8 swap, with no vtec.
why would you swapd16z6.......i have Zc non vtec is that the same????

New to imports and have few questions. I just got a B16A2 or think it is. Not sure how to tell if it is an A or A2. Supposed to be a complete swap, with engine, tranny, ECU, linkage,wiring harness, and half shafts. Looks like no A/C, power steering, or alternator brackets. What all will I need to get this in my car? Putting it in a 97 Civic LX with a D16. Also I have a header on the D16, does anyone know if this will work on the B16?

Thanks

I put a B20/with B18 vtec head in a 1995 Honda civic. In your posting I see that you only talk about the the B16 head. Is the B18 head not a good choice?

The B18c heads are just as good as the b16a.

Any experience or stories regarding swapping any of the K20 motors into Civics? Ideally I'd want to keep it in the supreme RSX platforms, but this question is more for curiosity's sake.

The only engines discussed that have near perfect R/S ratios are the B16A and B16B. The rest (including the B20) have to be destroked to achieve the numbers. With the B20 what you do is get a crankshaft from a B17 and custom length rods. There you've changed both the rod length and rod stroke length. To do the same to your D16 you need to crunch some numbers and find out how to change the crankshaft (possibly by getting another shaft from another honda) and then figuring out how long the rod needs to be. Like I said, it gets really technical and this case, very expensive. You're more or less designing your own engine dynamics. It'd be alot cheaper to just get a B16. As for the block gaurd, yes this would definitly help. But if you want to make SO much power from that engine that the R/S ratio is an issue to you, the block guard was already neccesary even with a good R/S ratio. Get my point?

about that r/s ratio 1.75 i have achieved that with a b20,but with a dart tall block. i kept the crank stroke of 3.5 the b20 has. i used eagles 5.967
length rods and it worked out great at the top of the block with a very good
quench area. doing the math i believe that comes to about 1.71 without having to destroke. thats very close to 1.75.

just new here can some1 here who live in p'cola or milton area can help me? just bought a 92 hatch n want 2 make it strong thnks

sure i can help you best i can. i can help you with some questions, but
if your looking for hands on help might b able to help. i quess for starters
what engine do u have in your 92 hatch.

Im kinda stupid, after reading all that I still cant figure out if a 1995 Honda Civic 1.6 SOHC Motor/package, would fit into my 1989 Honda Civic Sedan DX. All I need is a yes or a no. If its a yes sumone point me to a web site that I can get new motor mounts at. I have everything else I need. And what serious is the 95 1.6 SOHC? D16?

You didn't find out the info you were looking for because this is the '92-'00 swap guide, nothing to do with '88-'91 swaps. But yes it will fit in there. There is a ton of info over at the 4th gen forum, you should search around there. And the '92-'95 civic sohc vtec engine is the D16Z6.

You didn't find out the info you were looking for because this is the '92-'00 swap guide, nothing to do with '88-'91 swaps. But yes it will fit in there. There is a ton of info over at the 4th gen forum, you should search around there. And the '92-'95 civic sohc vtec engine is the D16Z6.

Thanks alot.

ya know what, I forgot I got my computer back with all my links (it has been almost a year so forgive me). Here's some info that will be helpful:
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/sohcvtec.html
http://www.angelfire.com/d20/hcivic88/4gtech_d16z6swap.html

Hey everyone. I was reading through here trying to understand some things. This thread helped a lot. I am a H22 Prelude guy comming over to the EG side of things now. I always wanted a clean white 92-95 hatch with a H swap. So I thought now I might have my chance. Someone is selling a 93 white 5spd Vx with 220k on it. I'm thinking about getting it.

First I was going to relax with the motor and transfer my attention to the suspension. After that I then wans going to do the swap. I hope she holds up though with tho miles. I don't know anything about D series motors. This motor burns a little oil, but I thought maybe with a little bit of love and granny driver she will last me through the summer (since I should be done with all the suspension work by then). Then in the winter I can work on a motor.

Now like I mentioned above I wanted to swap in a H22. I can get JDM H22's engines for about 1k, then a trans for about $300 - $900 depending on if I want LSD or not. I know from reading this article and the H22 into the EG specific article that I will need to send my harness out (i'd prefer it that one. Once n done), I need special mounts, and a few other parts. I think I could honestly do the whole swap for around $3k. Especially since the K series got everyone's attn lately. But after reading all of this I thought hmmm maybe a B16 since from what I gather, drops right in with no mount mods and a ECU upgrade. So now I'm stuck. I know if I go with the H22 I will be really happy since I always wanted a H22 EG after I was done with my BB4 Pre. Plus I'm sure stock the q/t mile times would be A LOT better. Which swap would be less stressful to do? Just looking for opinions, pointers etc.

Also like I said I don't know much about the D series motor. Since this hatch has 220k on it and it burns a little oil do you think has long has I give it a tune up, use good oil, drive like a granny (lol actually I don't beat my cars anyhow. no more then a occasionally 5k rev while driving once n a blue moon - If I want to do that I go to the track or better yet a Auto X event and drive my car the way it was built to drive), should the little motor last me a while long yet?

Thanks a lot.

Hey everyone. I was reading through here trying to understand some things. This thread helped a lot. I am a H22 Prelude guy comming over to the EG side of things now. I always wanted a clean white 92-95 hatch with a H swap. So I thought now I might have my chance. Someone is selling a 93 white 5spd Vx with 220k on it. I'm thinking about getting it.

First I was going to relax with the motor and transfer my attention to the suspension. After that I then wans going to do the swap. I hope she holds up though with tho miles. I don't know anything about D series motors. This motor burns a little oil, but I thought maybe with a little bit of love and granny driver she will last me through the summer (since I should be done with all the suspension work by then). Then in the winter I can work on a motor.

Now like I mentioned above I wanted to swap in a H22. I can get JDM H22's engines for about 1k, then a trans for about $300 - $900 depending on if I want LSD or not. I know from reading this article and the H22 into the EG specific article that I will need to send my harness out (i'd prefer it that one. Once n done), I need special mounts, and a few other parts. I think I could honestly do the whole swap for around $3k. Especially since the K series got everyone's attn lately. But after reading all of this I thought hmmm maybe a B16 since from what I gather, drops right in with no mount mods and a ECU upgrade. So now I'm stuck. I know if I go with the H22 I will be really happy since I always wanted a H22 EG after I was done with my BB4 Pre. Plus I'm sure stock the q/t mile times would be A LOT better. Which swap would be less stressful to do? Just looking for opinions, pointers etc.

Also like I said I don't know much about the D series motor. Since this hatch has 220k on it and it burns a little oil do you think has long has I give it a tune up, use good oil, drive like a granny (lol actually I don't beat my cars anyhow. no more then a occasionally 5k rev while driving once n a blue moon - If I want to do that I go to the track or better yet a Auto X event and drive my car the way it was built to drive), should the little motor last me a while long yet?

Thanks a lot.

if you have a prelude already forget about that vx hatch and dumping
money into a swap for it just to get a quicker 1/4 mile, itl only tear your
engine up and wasted money and hard work . instead dump your money
into what you got and turn your prelude into a badass looking top speed
runner. in my opinion drag racing is for pro competition that sponsors
supply lots of money into a car just to get a fraction of a second better
time to win. and its over in what seconds. most amatuers doing it just
for fun only reach certain 1/4 mile times for the money they can put
in it , but those times have been done over and over, instead i would focus
on building a highly tuned turbo engine thats reliable with big turbo and find out on
the gearing you need for the transmission to reach good top speeds like
200mph+ not many out there that can do that. thats what im doing with my civic, got a fat turbo on it and swap the transmission for a integra typeR S80, running round 176 mph but still improving.lol

I want to swap my stock engine for a vtec engine here is what i found looking around for the last few days.I found a type-R B16B DOHC VTEC
190 hp@7600
torque 2116 lb-ft@7300
redline 8200 rpm
displacment 159cc
compression ratio 10.4:1

This alos comes with a type hydraulic transmission

list of parts included
complete motor
block
intake manifold
complete head
sensors
exhaust manifold
fuel rail
injectors
distributor
throttle body
alternator
starter
ignition wires
a/c compressor
power steering pump
headers

obd2 ecu ( computer )

5 speed fwd hydraulic LSD transmission with clutch components assembled to engine

engine mounts

yonaka motorsports drive shafts


I want to know if this would be the best swap for my civic the price on the setup above is 4500.00 plus shipping .I have around 10 k to spend on the motor as of right now i may invest more than this in the future.I will install the motor with friend at his shop to save me the cost .
I want to know what upgrades i should do on the motor first to get the most out of it if someone could help me out here it sure would help me out a lot .
thx guys :banghead:

i would go with the b16b if you want a natuarlly aspirated high rev engine
b16b is the top on this plus rare engine, if you have that much to spend
if going turbo id still get it and swap the block in for a sleeved one which
costs around 1000.00 and put the b16b head back on it. nothing has to
be done to the head for turbo except get double valve springs, cams on it
are fine. by experience any way you go for big power will cost about the
same just depends on how hard you make it for yourself getting it there.
oh if you have that much to spend consider darts block for hondas it has
sleeved block closed deck design and steel main journals costs around 2000.00 though but if going turbo its money well spent, i have one and you
cant beat it.

heres the order i would do buy the engine , put it on a engine stand
remove the crank,rods, pistons, everything on the block . remove the
head put it aside, get a sleeved block , put the stock crank back in with
forged pistons,rods, cometic head gasket, swap oil pump gear for a forged
one , get arp head studs, put a moroso 5 qt capacity oil pan with turbo
fittings already on it , mount head back on it. put a jg intake on your head
70mm throttle body, 1000cc rc injectors, fat turbo , boost controller, and
a computer to run it all. any thing else is for shit and a waste of money.
note get your block sleeves honed and bored with a piston to wall clearance of .006 for turbo, reason for 1000cc injectors is because it
supplys plenty of fuel on stock fuel pressure with out having to upgrade
your entire fuel system. going to spend that much do it right.

if you have a prelude already forget about that vx hatch and dumping
money into a swap for it just to get a quicker 1/4 mile, itl only tear your
engine up and wasted money and hard work . instead dump your money
into what you got and turn your prelude into a badass looking top speed
runner. in my opinion drag racing is for pro competition that sponsors
supply lots of money into a car just to get a fraction of a second better
time to win. and its over in what seconds. most amatuers doing it just
for fun only reach certain 1/4 mile times for the money they can put
in it , but those times have been done over and over, instead i would focus
on building a highly tuned turbo engine thats reliable with big turbo and find out on
the gearing you need for the transmission to reach good top speeds like
200mph+ not many out there that can do that. thats what im doing with my civic, got a fat turbo on it and swap the transmission for a integra typeR S80, running round 176 mph but still improving.lol

lol- dude
I'm not really going to run it in the q/m a lot. A handful of times (5 or 6 runs - 1 or 2 visits), but that's it. If anything I would run it for what the parts were made for and that's Auto X. I wanted to build a solid, clean set up. Again no riced out gay-ass kits, faggish altezza's etc. Also I am not going to waste my money on a Turb set up. That's fine for some, but I'm not into that. I'm into N/A. That's how my lude is and that's how any other Honda I get will stay. Also I was lmao when you were talking about reaching speeds of 200mph+. I'm no longer in the Military so I doubt I will be going over to the Auto-bahn anytime soon haha. :rofl:

lol- dude
I'm not really going to run it in the q/m a lot. A handful of times (5 or 6 runs - 1 or 2 visits), but that's it. If anything I would run it for what the parts were made for and that's Auto X. I wanted to build a solid, clean set up. Again no riced out gay-ass kits, faggish altezza's etc. Also I am not going to waste my money on a Turb set up. That's fine for some, but I'm not into that. I'm into N/A. That's how my lude is and that's how any other Honda I get will stay. Also I was lmao when you were talking about reaching speeds of 200mph+. I'm no longer in the Military so I doubt I will be going over to the Auto-bahn anytime soon haha. :rofl:


sorry didnt know you was going that way with it. n/a is still respectable
too. b16 is easier install, if you go h22 though and find you need to swap
out parts to piece it all together ,if you dont already know hondaparts unlimited has everything down to bolts for all honda/acura cars with picture
graphs of how everything is assembled, great source for oem parts. that
site has help me immensley with my swap.

If you're really looking for power, comparing the H22a and the b16a is like apples and oranges. The b16a swap will be a lot easier to do, but the h22a swap isn't rocket science either. And even if you get frustrated or ticked off doing the h22a swap, you'll still be happier with the end result over the b16a.

My friend bought a '92 VX years ago and it was in pretty bad shape too; burning some oil, wheel bearings shot, and a few minor problems. I forget exactly how many miles it had on it, but it was some where around 200,000. But that engine lasted a long time. In fact he swapped the vx engine into his 4dr lx, when he decided to move his turbo'd h22a setup to the much lighter hatch; that was about 2 years ago. And he JUST got rid of the engine at the beginning of winter, and the engine had just started dieing out. The D-series engines are crazy resilient. People abuse them and have little problem. I drove mine 25+ miles on the highway with literally NO coolant (radiator blew up without me knowing), and It's still driving today. There's a video online of some kids trying to blow up a d-series; with water and dirt put into it, as well as taking a sledge hammer to the valve cover. The damn thing still drove.

But back on topic. If you go with the h22a, just make sure to get a good suspension, I can't stress this enough (especially if you're going to auto X it).

i have a 1994 honda civic dx <not a hatch> it has a gsr transmission and a b16 a2 it turns over strong but will not start the check engine light gave an engine code 10 so i replaced the ait senser i also replaced the distributor it wont start but turns over strong it has good compression and the timimg belt isnt broken can u help me?

with a 92-95 HB how much would it cost me in parts to swap a K20 (the RSX motor i think im correct on that) and what parts r needed does anyone have the specs on it and pricesrunaround

I have a 94 Civic Hatch and it has a B20b block, B18 head with a compression ratio of 11.0 to 1 it has a 00 civic si tranny with stage three clutch, is there anyway of slapping a turbo package on it and still be reliable?:confused:

hey thanks 4 da info, i got a question i did a engine swap but i didnt change da ecu, my car is sputtering wen i idle n wen i accelerate. Is is becuz i need a 96 ecu or is it the idle control valve?