can someone tell me how to get the rotors off my 91 accord lx? I have tried everything. There are no phillips screws that are on most hondas...do i have to take off the 1 1/2 bolt in the center?

Thanks.
Rick
http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/i/12568901765_0.jpg?ext=.jpg&outquality=85

Your rotors should only held on by the pads/caliper.

The rotors in a sense "float".

After you get the pads off and you'll probably need to pound the rotor out with a soft hammer.

I've never done the brake in my 90 accord yet but all the other discs brakes I've every done were completed the way I mentioned.

My opinion is, don't even try it. The 90-91 Accord rotors do not "float". They are bolted to the hubs and the hubs HAVE to be removed to replace the rotors. It was a totally unnecessary and ridiculous design, and the 92-93 Accords don't use it(their rotors slide on and off like most rotors, AFAIK). If you do try it yourself, be careful or you'll ruin your wheel bearings.

EDIT: I may be wrong about the 1991 rotors, but I know the 1990 rotors are like this, as I tried to do my own (unaware of the configuration) following a Haynes manual and ended up taking the car to a shop that had the proper tools (Honda dealer).

Thanks for the correction.

That's just crap honda designed them that way.

Thanks for the correction.

That's just crap honda designed them that way.


yep, i am at the point where i am just giving up ......and the funny thing is that i really havent even got started. I only got to the point where i was just about to take the axle bolt off and it can't even get it to budge. Anyway, I have no time nor patience for this crap. I am taking it to a shop. Anybody know how much they will charge?

What exactly are you trying to do? Are you trying to take the axle out? If so, you don't have to mess with the brakes. Just take the wheel off and take the axle out.

The axle nut is "staked" to prevent it from becoming unscrewed during operation. You have to get a small chisel or screwdriver and pry it out before you can take the nut off.

What exactly are you trying to do? Are you trying to take the axle out? If so, you don't have to mess with the brakes. Just take the wheel off and take the axle out.

The axle nut is "staked" to prevent it from becoming unscrewed during operation. You have to get a small chisel or screwdriver and pry it out before you can take the nut off.

here is what i am trying to do. I am trying to find out how much it will cost to have a shop change my rotors. I have already purchased the rotors but i am just wondering how much maintenance will be.

Unfortuneately you need a special tool to get them off. Strange design for sure but ensures customers come to, hopefully, Honda for service. They even turn them on the car when doing brake jobs.

You need a socket (36 mm?) and wrench to get the axle nut off. It's not easy to break it loose since the torque is very high (180 ft-lb?). I used power tool to take it off. You also need a torque wrench to tighten it.

A shop shouldn't charge too much for this (except dealer).

hondaman56,
What special tool do you need to remove the rotor? I was able to get the rotor free and clear, but it's the stupid plate in front that's stopping me from removing it. . .

Can anyone confirm the socket size for that center nut? I know it's metric, b/c 1 3/8 socket is just a hair too small. and 1 1/2 is too big.

NOTE: 3-22-04 - the hub nut is 36mm. runs about 6 bucks at home depot. I've done everything except remove the hub, and bearing. having a heck of a time with it. has any do-it-yourselfer been able to remove the hub and bearing at home? if so, how did you do it?

hondaman56,
What special tool do you need to remove the rotor? I was able to get the rotor free and clear, but it's the stupid plate in front that's stopping me from removing it. . .

Can anyone confirm the socket size for that center nut? I know it's metric, b/c 1 3/8 socket is just a hair too small. and 1 1/2 is too big.

NOTE: 3-22-04 - the hub nut is 36mm. runs about 6 bucks at home depot. I've done everything except remove the hub, and bearing. having a heck of a time with it. has any do-it-yourselfer been able to remove the hub and bearing at home? if so, how did you do it?

Here's what I had to do - I think most people know about this by now, but I am posting it for anyone else who hasn't tried this.

1. After removing the caliper and caliper mount. I removed the 36mm spindle nut with an impact wrench -- I had to go out and buy a new impact gun (my porter cable was rated at 425 lbs, but I bought an Ingersoll Rand rated at 600 lbs, with a claim to remove nuts torqued to 1000 lbs) (and yes I did unstake the nut) (Note: new nuts cost me about $5.30 each from my local parts store)
2. disconnected tie rod ends (go and borrow a suspension tool kit from your local parts store - has a tool to make this easier than pounding on it with a hammer)
3. disconnect upper ball joint. (note: if your upper ball joint boot is cracked and you want to replace it, you have to buy the whole upper control arm - about 150 from honda and 125 aftermarket)
4. disconnect lower ball joint. (this can be replaced if needed - 75 bucks from Honda or about 25 aftermarket)
5. after removing the entire knuckle off the car. there are 4 bolts with star shaped heads. I thought you would have to use a special socket like a torx head or something, but there are too many points for a torx socket. I found that a 12 point 11mm socket fits perfectly.
6. After removing the bearing assembly from the steering knuckle, you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
7. Next step - buy a ticket to Japan to find the $#%#$%! engineer who designed the front brakes this way and kick him in the nuts!


Jimmy w/ a (91 Accord EX)

I have 91 accord. I have the same problem. I am trying to replace the front left axle and I have bought the new one. i jsut can get the main axle bolt or hub nut off. I hav ebroken two socket wrenched. Any tips. Do i have to use power tools?

can someone tell me how to get the rotors off my 91 accord lx? I have tried everything. There are no phillips screws that are on most hondas...do i have to take off the 1 1/2 bolt in the center?

Thanks.
Rick
http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/i/12568901765_0.jpg?ext=.jpg&outquality=85
i ran into this issue with my 96 honda accord. a shop estimate of 4 hours labor to get the rotors off the car. you are looking at big bucks here unless you have a friend who is a mechanic with a torch. i'm still dumbfounded by honda's design! what idiot decided that was a good thing? you're going to spend hundreds to do the job. honda shoud be kissing my a... and apologizing for this boneheaded design. i guess they wanted to keep their dealers in business. its just a shock coming from them especially when they have done everything else well.

I'm assumming you've unstaked the axle nut - and yes I used a 3/4 inch drive impact wrench to remove the nut, and even with that I had to lean on for a couple minutes.

when i changed the brakes on my 1990 honda accord i took off the axel nut (can't remember what size) and then i got a wheel puller and latched the 3 arms around the rotor and turned it and pushed the axel through it and it just fell off

You want to VERY carefully in what you are doing on this situation. I had/have a 92 accord LX and my rotors were that "pressed on" style. Many automotive shops have the tool to actually remove them ease free. I remember when I got my rotors done for the first time on that car, I took it to Big Al's muffler and with a discount it ran me nearly 250.00. Luckily now, I know a guy on the side who will do it for me for about 50.00, but once again you gotta be really careful because all that bangin will do serious damage to your bearings..I had that problem once before.

Ok, You guys are all wrong!! HAHAHA......

I took the upper ball joint off and the lower ball joint off. I removed my control arm and the brake caliper assembly along with the shocks. Therefore, I have the whole assembly completely out from under the car with the hub and rotors still on. There are four bolts in the rear were the axle is and those can be taken off with a 12mm socket. Mine broke off so I suggest you spray them down. Then drive a different vehicle to a hardware store or anywhere to get a bolt that is 10mmX 1.25 that is roughly 70mm long. Screw those into the four holes that you just use the 12mm socket on just until they are tight. Then here comes the fun part. Use a Air Chisel with a Smoothing Hammer attachment and use is to push the whole assembly out without even touching the hub itself. That way you don't have to use a press or purchase a new bearing for $50.00 not including labor. If you have any questions contact me at Pheng_t@hotmail.com and I'll email you a more better description. I don't think I touched up on everything but that's what I remember.

WhyteAccord 5th Gen