96 EX-V6 strange problem

The other day my Tach started bouncing up and down until finally it gets all the way to the 0 rpm, this happens after I've been driving anywhere between 10-15 miles. After the tach gets to the 0, the engine will start to miss a little, like every 5 to 10 seconds, not real bad but like the ignition is interupted for a very split second. Sometimes it will stay like this till I stop driving, other times the tach will start working again just like nothing was wrong. At night when it is cold this rarley happens.
The car always starts ok, never have any other problems, no CEL I even put my code reader on to see if I missed a CEL light and nothing. Now this is where it gets really strange, I put the trans in D3 from D4 at about 60 mph when it is missing in D4 and it stops missing, so I figure high rpms stops the problem, wrong I go back to D4 and take it up to 95mph and it still misses. Scratching my head I just drive home with it missing in D4, and by the time I get home the missing has stopped but the tach is still just barley bouncing off of the 0. The engine runs normal Temprature, has 104,600 miles. Any of you guys know what runs the tach on this engine, I'm thinking this is the place to start looking.
I have a good hunch it is an electrical component that is braking down when the ambient air temprature increases as the problem doesn't happen on very cold nights. I'm going to change the plugs, cap, rotor and wires, and if no one has any suggestion take it to the honda shop. I hate to do that with an intermitant electrical problem, it's like giving them a blank check and having them fill it out.
Sorry this is so long but I thought you would need all the info I could give you.
Thanks Jeff

hey my 96 EX-V6 has the exact same problem. i brought it into my mechanic and he told me that a sensor or wire wus loose or cut underneath the throttlebody. after gettin that replaced my car stopped doing the strange tach needle bounce and its smoother den ever.

on the side note. my car makes a buzzing noise when i start the car up which lasts for about 20second it sounds like its from the ABS pump. i was wondering if any of you hav the same problem and if honda did a recall on this matter. thx.

Thanks Neige, I will check this out.
I also have the same buzzing noise when I start my car, I have no idea what it is, it doesn't seem to be a problem and has been doing it ever since I got the car a couple of years ago.
Jeff

If any one wants to know I've found the problem and fixed it.
The tune up didn't fix the problem but it needed it anyways, the more I drove with this problem I started to think that the engine wasn't missing it was the transmission going in and out of lockup very fast, felt like a very fast miss. I went to the library and used a computer with the mitchell on demand program and started looking up problems and TSB's. I found one titled Tach fluctuations and / or DTC P0725: Accord V6
Bulletin No. HSN 0899-05 Aug 1999
When you troubleshoot the cause of a fluctuating tachometer or DTC P075 on 95-96 Accord v6 (a code usually associated with an A/T lock-up clutch problem), be aware that the condition could be related to a resistor in the ignition coil. Through the resistor, the TCM (transmission control module) provides electrical pulses that drive the tach.
Even though this problem doesn't affect the coil's ignition functions, you'll probably need to replace the coil. (The coil resistor isn't available separately.) The ignition coil is P/N 30520-POG-A02, H/C 4598371.
I changed the coil and no more problem.
Jeff

you got it baby I was just going to say the coil.

Just wanted to thank jgr7 (Jeff) for doing the homework to find the factory service bulletin that discusses the cause of a fluctuating tachometer on 95-96 Accord v6 cars. I also had the bouncing tach after things warmed up for 10- minutes or so and the slight hesitations at highway speeds. I replaced the coil and my problems disappeared. Curiousity did get the best of me and I had to cut the old coil up to get a visual of the resistor that caused the problem. Sure enough a 5 cent ceramic resistor complete with color bands is potted in the coil assembly. Thanks again for your help Jeff!

Brian (SevenZeroFoxtrot)

hi ppl im a newbi to this site but i was curious about a race that my friend has bugged me to race him but dont know the outcome. I was wondering if i could get some help on who would win. i have a 00 accord v6 and he has a 00 civic si. both are completely stock so who do you think would come out the victorious....

i think the problem you guys are describing is what im experiencing. can somebody help. after i drive for more than an hour the car revs too high after second gear. it sometimes takes 5 seconds before geting back into gear. then when i stop it takes another five seconds to get to first and pulls the whole car. please i need help.

Sorry to dug this thread up. I think I have the same problem. Im trying to replace the ignition coil but dont know where it is. Is it the piece right underneath the distributor?

Sorry I could not respond sooner the board would not let me log on till today.
The coil is attached to the short wire that comes out of the distributor, the one that looks like a spark plug wire but doesn't go to a spark plug.
Jeff

I have a 95 accord 4Cyl and the tach fluctuates too,
is this the same problem as the V6

it only fluctuates at idle up and down, when I put it in drive or reverse this go away but only If Is moving, and If I do a stop appears again.

I have a 95 accord 4Cyl and the tach fluctuates too,
is this the same problem as the V6

it only fluctuates at idle up and down, when I put it in drive or reverse this go away but only If Is moving, and If I do a stop appears again.

This problem was for the V6 only as far as I could tell.
Post your symptoms in a new thread and see if any one can help.

Wow...very cool to find this information.

I've been having this same issue (fluctuating tachometer)...the car runs smoothly until the tach starts to fluctuate, then after anywhere from 5-20 minutes it drops to zero and runs smoothly once again.

After looking at my Chilton Manual, I came to the conclusion it was probably the crank position sensor, which is a pain in the butt to change but also tied into the fuel injector timing (which explains the surging). Needless to say, if you have to change this sensor, you may as well do a timing belt and water pump change at the same time since it requires taking everything off to get at the crank position sensor. In all my research in the maintenance manuals, I never saw a thing mentioning to check wires under the throttle body or that it could be a bad coil...so I've been procrastinating doing anything about it. All I can say is that THIS FORUM IS AWESOME! I'm gonna try replacing the coil first and looking for any broken or frayed wires and go more in depth only if needed. I'll post my results when I get my fixes done. THANKS GUYS!