I have oil collecting in the protective plastic cover below the oil filter. I know its not the filter or the old oring left on. I think its the oil lines to the oil filter. Anyone change the oil lines and how hard is it to change the one from the filer to the back of the engine.

It's the oil lines, pretty easy to change... Will run you about 80 bux for both sets, very typical for our trucks

could be your timing chain cover. Thats where mine is leaking from. Oil will run down the oil lines and onto the door for the oil filter.

Yeah. It's the oil lines running from the filter to the engine. That's one thing that chevy does that I don't like, to speed up production they use clamp fittings, which fail after awhile. I had to replace the one going up from the filter about 1 year ago. Now my other lines (the same ones as yours) are failing. So let me know how yours goes.

It's the oil lines, pretty easy to change... Will run you about 80 bux for both sets, very typical for our trucks
Thanks for the reply. I was worried about the one under the motor do you have to raise the motor from the mounts to change this one . 4.3L motor

could be your timing chain cover. Thats where mine is leaking from. Oil will run down the oil lines and onto the door for the oil filter.


Thank you I never thought of it being the cover, but I lowered the plastic protective pan. With this pan out of there the oil doesn't get blowed around from the fan, so I'm pretty sure it is my lines. Like I said Thanks I will still check the cover.

Mine leaks from the lines too. Let us know if you change 'em. I may try it soon - slow leak, but very annoying.

I replaced these lines last week, both of them, the ones going to the radiator are TIT $18.79 for them. the ones going to the back are another story though, they cost $47 and require a block of wood to be placed on the oil pan and than a jack giving pressure to lift the motor while you slide the old out and than slide the new in, make sure you are ready though when you jack the oil pan because you dont want the pressure resting against the motor mounts for very long good way to break something. took me about 45 mins to do both lines.

So you jack the engine up out of the motor mounts temporarily while you install these back lines? Do actually unbolt the motor mounts first - right?

Thanks for your reply.
-Shawn

You don't need to jack up the engine, just use a long extention with a swivel...

Rlith, yes you use a long extension to loosen the bolt, but how exactly did you manage to get the oil lines themself out and get the new one through without lifting the engine a little bit to make some room in between the frame and the motor?

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No you do not have to unbolt the motor mounts, just jack it up maybe 5 or 6 inches. you will tell while jacking keep trying to pull the line out and when she finaly comes you will have enough.. be careful though not to jack too much at once.. or you could end up breaking a mount by placing too much pressure

You don't need to jack up the engine, just use a long extention with a swivel...
Yea you need a swivel but you have to raise the motor. Changed it Sunday took me 2 hours trying everyway but the right way to get the old lines out. About 30mins. once i pulled the moter mount bolt raised the moter half inch came right out .

took me less than 20 mins to replace mine and I never jacked up the engine, I just used a swivel and a 10" extension...

The support bar running from the engine block to the bottom of the bellhousing runs between the two lines. I couldn't figure out how I was going to unbolt it to snake the lines out, so I wimped out and let the dealer do it. They only charged me 1/2 hour labor to do the job, so I figure it can't be that difficult to snake them out. Under different circumstances (now working in a dealer garage but '95 Jimmy went to the ex) I would have done it myself.

Rlith it seems that some will slide right out, and some need some minor lifting of the motor to make room between support bar. When I did mine last week I had it on a lift, and just took a block of wood, and stuck it under the basepan, and lowered the lift about 3 to 4 inches until I could freely pull the lines out and stick the new one in than I lifted the truck back up to secure the line.

I have a 99 chevy blazer LS 4x4 four door automatic and I wish daily that I had never bought it. The vehicle rides and drives great, has good power and good fuel milage, BUT!!! First problem is the DEX-COOL gm uses, heater core blocked at 40,000 miles in the dead of winter and NO heat. Backflushed it and had heat for a month then stopped again. So this time i backflushed again and replaced with green antifreeze. Then later i drained and refilled again just to make sure all DEX-COOL was gone. Now I have 56,000 miles on it and have had no more heating problems but who knows? Then 44,000 miles the radiator busts. Yes it just cracked down the side and had to have a new one. Bought and fixed all that myself and was quickly realizing these blazers are not very easy to maintain. OK. Then 50,000 miles the water pump goes out. A water pump at 50,000 miles, and dealer tells me this is the life of a typical gm water pump. So I buy one and fix it myself and off we go again. Now it's these remote oil lines at 56,000 miles. Found puddle of oil under it last week, removed plastic cover today and sure enough, lines leaking. After calling all the local parts houses it seems that the only place u can buy these are at the dealer. It also appears to be a pretty bad job so I guess I will have to have the dealer fix it. I'm a chevy man and always have been, but my father-in-laws 98 4x4 four dour FORD EXPLORER has 98,000 miles on it now and he has never had one problem at all with it--------NOTHING. Makes me wonder will I buy another one.

Dex-crap is known for going bad, hence the class action suit against gm on it... As to the oil lines, it's relatively easy, has both mine changed out at 137k, took me all of 40 mins I think...

Arghhh. I wish I would have read this thread before I spent 1 1/2 hours trying to get the darned lines from the filter to the engine out. After I read about jacking up the engine to get enough clearance I tried it and 10 minutes later I was done. Replaced both sets of oil lines because they both leaked. Just poor OEM hose crimp quality I guess.

The newer lines use a 3 crimp instead of 2 crimp...

Anyone know the both lines part numbers I will need for a 99 Blazer auto 4x4 4.3?

thanks!

-Bill

Anyone know the both lines part numbers I will need for a 99 Blazer auto 4x4 4.3?

thanks!

-Bill
For 98 Blazer 4.3L Should be the same for yours 15194578 & 15194579 $72. and $74. What it cost me from a dealer

Before going to a dealer I HIGHLY recommend you goto Carquest or Autozone or a part store of that nature they should carry Dorrman OEM Quality Replacement. I got mine from Carquest and it cost me $18.79 for the ones that go to the radiator. and than $47 for the ones running back to the motor.. alot cheaper than the dealer.. Up here in maine my local dealer wanted $285 just for the oil lines..