maxima stalls after deceleration, stalls at idle


vgk
02-08-2004, 01:56 PM
1992 maxima
- Engine stalls sometimes during deceleration, sometimes when stopped at idle. sometimes will stumble at idle and recover.
- Sometimes will stumble under moderate acceleration, especially up hills.
- When the engine quits, I can immediately restart it, normally, just as if nothing is wrong. The car may run fine for awhile, or quit again.

The dealer could find nothing wrong, but I don't know if he checked the error codes on the ecu - anybody have a similar problem and solve it?
Thanks!

mamasocks
02-09-2004, 09:06 AM
I had a similar problem on my '97 Maxima, but my car would only re-start after about 5 minutes. My problem was the camshaft position sensor. I replaced it a week ago and so for the problem is solved. Is you check engine light on? You can get a Haynes manual and check the ecu's yourself.

vgk
02-09-2004, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the response. I have a Nissan service manual, and it does not mention a camshaft position sensor for my year. It does have a "crank angle sensor". Same thing?

mamasocks
02-09-2004, 01:07 PM
I guess it could be similar. First, I would pull the ecu codes myself to double check what the dealer said. Also, you might want to check your spark plugs and the wires/ coil packs for a problem.

vlc1968
02-10-2004, 07:15 PM
1992 maxima
- Engine stalls sometimes during deceleration, sometimes when stopped at idle. sometimes will stumble at idle and recover.
- Sometimes will stumble under moderate acceleration, especially up hills.
- When the engine quits, I can immediately restart it, normally, just as if nothing is wrong. The car may run fine for awhile, or quit again.

The dealer could find nothing wrong, but I don't know if he checked the error codes on the ecu - anybody have a similar problem and solve it?
Thanks!
Hi I have been having same problem with 1996 nissian. My Maxima has had spark plugs,3 rear ignitions coils and crank case sensor replace by a service company. When stop or idle it will shut off without notice like if someone turn ignition off. It will start right back up may work good for a while. I was told the crank case sensor was burned and that the coils were arching. Which I now think after 3 attempts by the same company they are giving me the shaft. I then took car to a nissan dealership the checkengine light came on right before taking to them. It had never came on before. Nissian Replace a Sensor-Booster, Mass Air Flow Ctrl, and valve assembly control. They kept it for 3 days driving and testing no engine light came on. After driving from dealership 8 miles check engine light is coming on again and I am out $1000. Also my car idle seems high. Without gas pedal depress my car is going 17mph on a flat surface. In park idle is 1200rpm. What is normal? Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also could the be the TPS sensor causing the problem?

vgk
02-11-2004, 11:27 AM
I think you should idle at 650 rpm +/-..thats what I experienced when the car was "normal". I have a big problem with Nissan dealers in general. They are bad at diagnosing problems, and like to replace parts until they finally get it right, causing a lot of expense. They also don't "fix" something, but replace the whole unit. I had a cracked turn signal lens once and instead of replacing the lens, they wanted to replace the whole light unit ($120.00). I also had a bad pump in the transmission of a Pathfinder, and they wanted to replace the transmission, radiator, and something else, for $6,500 "we dont fix transmissions, we replace them". I got a transmission shop to rebuild it for $1,800, new parts and labor.

WV2kMax
02-13-2004, 03:21 PM
I was having a problem of my 2000 Maxima stalling out when decelerating. It ended up being the throttle body. They told me that after a while they are bad about getting carbonation built up in them so I had the throttle body cleaned and some stuff ran through the gas. Works fine now, cost me $45 at a local place, the dealership wanted to charge me $195, what a rip off.

vidkun
02-16-2004, 01:13 AM
I had the same symptoms with my 93 ve dohc. The car had no error codes but it would stall constantly. It was as if the key was turned off. I checked the coil packs, changed the fuel pump, monitored the voltage to the pump while driving but couldn't find the problem. The car was at the point it wasn't driveable. My local dealer stated without even checking the car that the timing belt was bad (this car has a timing chain). He then claimed it must be that the throttle body needed cleaning. I got the car to sto stalling. I did three things at one time so I'm not sure which was the solution. 1) changed O2 sensor ngk 24064, 2) installed a ground strap from the engine to the body, 3) cleaned the two + wire connectors near the battery post. I believe it was the O2 sensor but as I said I can't be sure. Don't be overcharged for the sensor I saw prices from $50 to $108 for the same sensor. The ngk 24064 is OE identical.

jattsta
07-21-2004, 11:37 AM
i am having the same problem on my 99 max. i bought an o2 sensor and am replacing today, so i will let you know if that fixes the problem. $45 to clean the throttle body??? you could do it yourself in 10 minutes with a qtip and a $4 bottle of carb cleaner!!!!

turk66460
07-21-2004, 11:46 AM
I had the same problem as VGK staded it was the MAF. Mass Airflow sensor was bad. It hat the same problems. Cleaned the throtle body out didn't work. Just about everything that would do a complete tune up didn't work. I would get you MAF checked out. Good Luck


T-Man

rule da road
07-21-2004, 12:09 PM
i am having the same problem on my 99 max. i bought an o2 sensor and am replacing today, so i will let you know if that fixes the problem. $45 to clean the throttle body??? you could do it yourself in 10 minutes with a qtip and a $4 bottle of carb cleaner!!!!

Jattsa, u gotta holla. I've had this problem occasionally in my 00 stick but i feel the car just needed to warm up some mo'. OK, stupid question #1: we dont have carbeurators, got fuel injectors, but use carb cleaner.
Question #2: This is fix i'm lookin forward to, did u have this problem, stick, and did it resolve the problem or recognize perfomance gains.
#3 Kind enough to describe/instruct this process? Sh... I thought $45 wasn't badd!

jattsta
07-21-2004, 12:21 PM
carb cleaner is fine because it basically just gets rid of all the gunk that builds up. you could even use is as an oven cleaner if it wasnt for the ridiculously high flammability risk!

to clean the throttle plate, basically you just have to remove the air intake and maf sensor. if you know where your air filter is, basically follow it until the plastic parts stop and a metal engine part is. take off all the plastic stuff up to that part (should be like 3 parts-air filter, some tubing, maf sensor). this will expose the throttle plate. if you look in there, any black substances are not supposed to be there, so spray carb cleaner on it, let it soak for a minute, then wipe it off with a rag, or a qtip to really get in there. and thats it!! basically what happens is that this throttle plate pivots to let in air, and if there is alot of buildup it gets stuck, and not enough air is getting in, leading to a little bit of a rough ride...

as far as fixing the problem, i will find out if the o2 sensor is the culprit by tonight. expect a post by me tomorrow...

the reason i determined its my o2 sensor thats the problem is because my car always runs much better when it is cold, and about 5 mins into the drive you can notice a performance decline. this is because the o2 sensor doesnt 'kick in' until it is at the correct temp (around 600 F), which sometimes takes 5-10 minutes (but in newer models only a minute or less). but ill know for sure when i replace it...

jattsta
07-21-2004, 12:26 PM
oh, and my car is an automatic, but the process should be the same in both transmission types...

rule da road
07-21-2004, 12:54 PM
you the man! When I change my intake, i'll look forward to that procedure.

jattsta
07-22-2004, 02:41 PM
ok, so i replaced 1 of my upstream o2 sensors, and it made a little bit of a difference. the car still shudders at idle and sputters a little at acceleration, but i noticed the power loss has declined alot. im going to order another o2 sensor and replace that, so hopefully thatll cure it!

jtsaur
08-17-2014, 07:01 AM
I have a 9 years old 2005 Maxima. The engine is now experiencing the similar problem.

I had the engine light on a few weeks back. But, it never stalled. My mechanic replaced knock sensor, connector, and thermostat.

After service, the light went away. However, it started stalling. Last night, it stalled 4 times. The last time, the nice police gave me a tip, keep the rpm over 2000 to start it up.

I figured it stalled because the engine was missing gas. So I kept the rpm over 2000 even at the light with the other foot on the break. That's how it stopped stalling and got me home.

Looking at the dates of this thread, Maxima had this similar issue 1o years ago. I wonder if they never fixed it, this a separate design issue, or one shouldn't expect a 9 years old Maxima to run without issues.

No1sBoy
05-19-2015, 01:37 PM
You al might want to take a look at this?

A service bulletin released by Nissan on September 1999.

Found it in my AllData.

This is a PDF I uploaded to my DropBox... This is NOT spam or some other crap....
Good luck to you all.

https://db.tt/Q89At4WS

Suntastic
12-08-2015, 01:35 PM
I thought it may help someone to share my experience.

I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima SL
In September of 2015 (about 130k miles on the car) it started idling rough, which progressively got worse and the car would stall at idle.

This progressively got worse and it would start to stall often when I would let off of the accelerator, even while moving. Nothing like losing power steering etc.. while traveling down the highway.

When the problem first started the check engine light came on, and I even had the car stuck in 4th gear once, but I digress...

Took it to a shop in Mountain View and they diagnosed 3 engine codes. A very friendly mechanic explained the first thing to address is the Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs. So I did that work plus a tune up which cost me $900

After a couple of days the car was having the same problems, this time the "fix" was to replace the MAF sensor. $333 dollars later I got the car back and it was fine, for about 2 days. The problem was much less severe when it reoccurred so I dragged out a return trip for a few weeks, driving the car only when necessary and getting to know my bicycle a bit better.

When I brought the car back I could barely keep it running while he had the computer plugged into the car to diagnose it. He suspected the Throttle Body and I made an appointment. Picked the car up a couple days later with a new throttle body and gasket (~$500), and I was shown the computer performance before and after. This really seemed to smooth the car out and it was idling like new.

So a few days later, the car has started idling rough and stalling yet again. I will take the car back and give them a chance to make it right, but I am dead set against giving them any more money. I cannot help but suspect the problems they have addressed were NOT causing my car to stall because it is acting exactly as it was before I spent $1,700 to fix it!!

The last thing he mentioned when I picked the car up last time was some valve in the transmission, but he also talked about how the TB talks to the PCM and TCM so I'm anxious to see what the "real" fix is.

Bottom line, if your car is doing this make sure you get some assurances that the shop will fix the problem, not just replace parts they think will fix the problem.

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