2000 Rodeo 4WD LS transmission leak


bbassler
02-02-2004, 11:08 AM
Just started to notice a leak that appears after I park. Leaves a few drips and stops. Drive shaft is covered with fluid though so I know its getting bad.

I've not been able to find any plugs other than the one in the bottom of the pan. The leak itself is coming from a circular object which is inserted into the side of the transmission about midway back on the right side. The object (is this a plug?) is about 1.5" in diameter and is held in place by an internal C ring. Looks like it has a bad O-ring or something.

Any advice on what this is and how to fix? Also, is this in fact the filler plug, if not where are they. I've seen several areas that might correspoind to where the manual says they shoud be, but they are all blanks.

Any help is much appreciated,

Brian

bbassler
02-02-2004, 12:41 PM
BTW - I put a pic here:

http://www.cad-concepts.net/4L30E_.jpg

with a circle over the area I'm referring to. Thanks again.

Brian

rodeo02
02-02-2004, 02:54 PM
I couldn't see your pic, but I'm pretty sure you are describing the accumulator piston cover/gasket. This is a common issue with IIRC- 1996-2000 4L30E's. Isuzu put out a TSB in regards to this & it will be a freebie fix for you. Most dealers are good at fixing this.
G/luck
Joel

bbassler
02-02-2004, 03:10 PM
Sorry about that, try this one.:

http://www.bassler.us/4l30e.jpg

I called the nearest dealership and gave them my VIN. They said there were no recalls or anything pertaining to this vehicle on record. Perhaps there was some deadline that has passed.

At any rate, all I'm looking to do is replace this thing (and figure how to fill). From what I can gather, the O-rings are bonded to the cover and they are replaced as a single item. What kind of pressure is behind that cover? Is it something I can remove without special tools? I can do the ring but what does it take to depress that spring?

Thanks for your reply,

Brian

amigo-2k
02-02-2004, 06:10 PM
Are you the first owner of your truck? If so I would think the part you need is covered under warranty.

-Ryan

bbassler
02-02-2004, 06:43 PM
Nope, 2nd owner. I think there was a 1 year warrenty on the drive-train, that was in late 2001 so I don't think I fall under any warranties. Dealership says Yes to service Bulletin's, No to recalls, so no free replacments. Again, I don't imagine it to be such a hard job to replace a cover, just like to know what I'm getting into before I do it.

Davejb
02-02-2004, 06:50 PM
My wife is the second owner of a 2000 Rodeo LS 4x4, the drivetrain warranty for subsiquent owners is 5 years 50k miles, and your problem is drivetrain, unless your over 50k it should be covered, beat up the dealer on this, we just had a front axle replaced under this warranty.
Any TSB's are usually only valid while the vehicle is under it's bumper to bumper warranty, the dealer is not obligated to perform a TSB after this warranty, it's not the same as a recall, which must be done regardless of warranty status.

bbassler
02-02-2004, 07:08 PM
I'm at 80,600. Made several dozen trips back forth from southern VA to Rhode island last year. Truck is in good shape just lots of miles. Pretty sure no warranty in effect anymore.

2eyefishclaw
02-02-2004, 09:25 PM
if you try it yourself get ready for a whole bunch of cussing it will not be easy
before trying to remove the snap ring you need to push the acuumulator cover in then remove the cover dont fight trying to pull the cover out start the vehicle fluid pressure will push the cover out just have some one watching to see where the spring goes to install the new one I use a large socket and pry bar to push it in be sure the cover goes past the groove wheree the snap ring fits and when you put the snap ring back be sure it is in because if its not it will come back out

bbassler
02-02-2004, 09:56 PM
Thanks 2eyefishclaw. I've pressed a few bearings and balljoints before so I kinda figured I knew what I was getting into. I just wanted to know what to expect. Most importantly, I want to know that I can push the thing back in once I get it out as I have no idea how strong that spring is. Also, are the O-rings bonded to the cover or not? Thanks again for your help.

Brian

surferfletch
02-02-2004, 10:30 PM
There are 2 nuts on the bottom of the tranny pan. The lower one is the drain. The one at the back of the pan in a recess is the filler. You need a hand pump or something similar to fill it to overflowing, then top it off with the engine running. Make sure you shift through the gears a couple of times when topping off.

rheteric
05-25-2004, 06:25 PM
I got a puff of smoke on my way home from work and have just diagnosed this problem, I need some more info ASAP:
1. Is this essentially a DIY job or does it need to be taken to the dealer?
2. What replacement parts are necessary to fix it or can I just reset the existing cover and snap ring?
3. Although I'm leaning towards the "no" answer, is this at all driveable before getting it fixed?
4. What tools do I need?

This really sucks b/c I'm the second owner, and I've just passed the 50K mark. And on top of all that I'm a victim of the national warranty collapse, so my extended warranty went up in smoke a few months ago.
Thanks!

amigo-2k
05-26-2004, 08:59 AM
I think the second owners warranty is 5yr/60k.

rheteric
05-26-2004, 09:18 AM
I think the second owners warranty is 5yr/60k.
I guess I'll find out.... I dropped the car off at the stealership this morning. Keep your fingers crossed!

rheteric
05-26-2004, 08:37 PM
WOW!!!! They were really going to take me to the cleaners for this!!! I got a callback this evening and the estimate they quoted me was $540!!! Allegedly, they couldn't get just the cover and new ring without ordering the whole servo/piston package, the parts just didn't come separately. So they wanted the go-ahead to replace the whole unit!

SHENANEGANS!!!! I called St. Charles and spoke to Merlin (the man!). I simply asked him what parts were neccessary to fix the leaking accumulator piston cover.... $10 worth of parts!!! I went ahead and ordered the stuff (it was the least I could do) and took my case to the service dept at Isuzu. In so many words I told them there's no 'right or wrong' to their repair recommendation, but let's call a spade a spade; I did not need a new $540 servo! I said this is the way I want you to repair it (per [St. Charles'] standard procedure), and they were more than happy to oblige. Damn straight!

Buyer beware!!!! Being an informed consumer saved me some $400, and I would have been a sucker if not for this community. It kills me how they insisted there was no other (cheaper) way to fix it.... well they were in for a suprise; momma didn't raise no fool! I'm sure labor ($90/hr) could be found cheaper elsewhere too, but at this point I was content to set an example. Besides, this dealership is right around the corner from me and it'd be a shame if I ever did need something serious, I'd have to go miles to find the next closest one. In short, thanks for everyone's concern.

These are the part #s in case anyone else needs 'em:
Snap ring: 8-96015-714-0
Cover: 8-96017-093-0

BTW: Although they admitted it looked like it could've been leaking for an indeterminate amount of time, there was no chance at letting it slide under any warranty coverage. I dunno how far out it was but I'm at 52K miles and the (original) in-serve date was Dec 2000. Your guess is as good as mine when it comes to warranty coverage for non-original owners.

Cheers!

rheteric
05-27-2004, 05:32 PM
I think the second owners warranty is 5yr/60k.
amigo-2k, you're absolutely right!!!
This story gets even better! I called American Isuzu Motors yesterday, and a regional manager got back to me today. He said I have a 3 year / 50000 mi basic warranty (which I'm over) and a 5 year / 60000 mi powertrain warranty.... DING, DING, DING!!!! I called my dealership service dept back and told them what I've found. "My understanding was that the factory warranties were non-transferrable, but I'll check with the store's warranty [guy]," she says. So I got a call back and low and behold I DO have a waranty!!! HAHAHA so now they've got to do the original $540 repair, on their dime. It'll set me back a day or two while they order this part, but I'm a pig in $h!^ right now, and can't wait to get my apology (which I intend to force out of them).

Guys, I feel great, but what about all the other people who probably got shafted fom this person's misinformation. Whether intentional or not, isn't there some sort of checks and balances system in place to keep everything legit, in the dealership of all places?!?!?! The person handling my ticket doesn't seem at all like a rookie either; I'm ready to tell her to go back to her new employee handbook and get reacquainted with Isuzu policy. What gives????

American Isuzu Motors: 800-255-6727
13340 183rd Street
Cerritos, CA 90702

hunter360
06-24-2004, 01:35 PM
When attempting to replace the accumulator piston cover myself, do I need to remove parts like the front drive shaft, or that small pan right underneath the piston cover for clearance? Or is it just trying to push in the piston cover and replacing it without much other work?

Davejb
06-24-2004, 02:06 PM
Rheteric, I was in the same boat as you but I knew for a fact they had to do the work even when they said they wouldn't. I didn't even bother arguing with them. Just called Isuzu, and their rep called the dealer and straightened them out.

rheteric
06-24-2004, 02:11 PM
Well, fortunately everything has been resolved on my part, and I'm confident that no feelings were hurt.

hunter360
06-24-2004, 04:47 PM
Ok, I'm getting there. Gonna save myself a few bucks. If anyone can answer, what do I use for leverage when using a pry bar or accumulator pry bar to push the cover in? Should I just go to Home Depot and rent some kind of air clamp to push in the cover?

Jake's
10-18-2005, 07:12 AM
I am having the EXACT same leak from this accumulator piston cover!!! Sooooooo glad I found this forum!!!

I am having extreme trouble finding the parts you said you found and those part numbers. Who, what or where is "St. Charles and Merlin???

Thank you!!!

Jake...


WOW!!!! They were really going to take me to the cleaners for this!!! I got a callback this evening and the estimate they quoted me was $540!!! Allegedly, they couldn't get just the cover and new ring without ordering the whole servo/piston package, the parts just didn't come separately. So they wanted the go-ahead to replace the whole unit!

SHENANEGANS!!!! I called St. Charles and spoke to Merlin (the man!). I simply asked him what parts were neccessary to fix the leaking accumulator piston cover.... $10 worth of parts!!! I went ahead and ordered the stuff (it was the least I could do) and took my case to the service dept at Isuzu. In so many words I told them there's no 'right or wrong' to their repair recommendation, but let's call a spade a spade; I did not need a new $540 servo! I said this is the way I want you to repair it (per [St. Charles'] standard procedure), and they were more than happy to oblige. Damn straight!

Buyer beware!!!! Being an informed consumer saved me some $400, and I would have been a sucker if not for this community. It kills me how they insisted there was no other (cheaper) way to fix it.... well they were in for a suprise; momma didn't raise no fool! I'm sure labor ($90/hr) could be found cheaper elsewhere too, but at this point I was content to set an example. Besides, this dealership is right around the corner from me and it'd be a shame if I ever did need something serious, I'd have to go miles to find the next closest one. In short, thanks for everyone's concern.

These are the part #s in case anyone else needs 'em:
Snap ring: 8-96015-714-0
Cover: 8-96017-093-0

BTW: Although they admitted it looked like it could've been leaking for an indeterminate amount of time, there was no chance at letting it slide under any warranty coverage. I dunno how far out it was but I'm at 52K miles and the (original) in-serve date was Dec 2000. Your guess is as good as mine when it comes to warranty coverage for non-original owners.

Cheers!

Davejb
10-18-2005, 07:22 AM
Guys, I feel great, but what about all the other people who probably got shafted fom this person's misinformation. Whether intentional or not, isn't there some sort of checks and balances system in place to keep everything legit, in the dealership of all places?!?!?!

If the "other people" didn't take the time to understand their warranty, investigate their options, or question the dealer, that's pretty much their own fault. First rule, never, ever, ever take the dealers word for ANYTHING.
In this day and age customer service has taken a back seat to profit, if they can get $$ for a warranty job, it saves them $$. You just need to find yourself a good dealer that you can trust, not many out there but there are some.

nusrat
01-13-2006, 12:04 PM
Hi All:
Last night while driving i got trans light flashing and check eng light. Upon looking under the truck i found tranny fluid all over, but the tranny shifted fine nor it went to limp mode. I took the truck to my mechanic and put on the lift, although oil was present on drive shaft and under transfer case shield but their is no apperant leak. He also put in D and checked but couldn't found any leaks. Next day i took it autozone and had codes read. The code was p1870 and since tranny was shifting fine and so as 4x4, I deceided to erase codes. My question is do i need to repalce the snap ring which most of you guys/gals talking about? If yes can you pls post TSB from isuzu and procedure to fix the problem so that i can have it fix by my mechanic.

Isuzu Rodeo LS 99, 87k miles.

wb4lbg
01-13-2006, 02:03 PM
You are living dangerously if you continue to drive this thing after the tranny light comes on. You need to immediately check the fluid level on your transmission and top it off if necessary. If you have any suspicion that the level could be low, you need to do something about it.

I speak from experience. It cost me $2100 to have my AT rebuilt after I ignored some drips on the pavement for a month.

Good Luck!

oo4playmrright
03-29-2006, 08:42 PM
ok, i'm working on my neighbors 2001 rodeo. i'm gonna do a filter change and hunt down all the leaks. between the tranny pan and this accumulator thing are there any other normal leaky spots? do both pans, small front one too? do the tailshaft seals leak often? i just want to buy all the parts at once if possible. and while we're talking about parts, can i just ghetto rig this accumulator cover back in? what parts do i need exactally?
These are the part #s in case anyone else needs 'em:
Snap ring: 8-96015-714-0
Cover: 8-96017-093-0
can't i reuse these?

thanks
jason

oo4playmrright
03-30-2006, 11:12 PM
bump

ok, i'm working on my neighbors 2001 rodeo. i'm gonna do a filter change and hunt down all the leaks. between the tranny pan and this accumulator thing are there any other normal leaky spots? do both pans, small front one too? do the tailshaft seals leak often? i just want to buy all the parts at once if possible. and while we're talking about parts, can i just ghetto rig this accumulator cover back in? what parts do i need exactally?

can't i reuse these?

thanks
jason

amigo-2k
03-30-2006, 11:25 PM
ok, i'm working on my neighbors 2001 rodeo. i'm gonna do a filter change and hunt down all the leaks. between the tranny pan and this accumulator thing are there any other normal leaky spots?

-There are not normal leak spots, but the accumulator piston cover is the main spot that the leak can happen at, but is still very rare. I think you may need a special tool to do this (I think there is info on this in the FAQ's)

do both pans, small front one too?
Can't say I have read about anyone having leaking from these gaskets.


do the tailshaft seals leak often?
No


i just want to buy all the parts at once if possible. and while we're talking about parts, can i just ghetto rig this accumulator cover back in?
I don't know, but a new tranny costs over 3500.00 + the install (used can be had for 2k installed). Honestly, if it is leakying from that area why not just take it in and fix it right?

matthew46
05-30-2006, 10:02 AM
Have a 2002 Rodeo which appears to have a leaky accumulator gasket. I've seen everything normally being applied to vehicles from the 1996 to 2000 year range for this issue, but not any years later. I've owned this since new so it should be covered under warranty right?

amigo-2k
05-30-2006, 12:39 PM
yes you have a 10yr 120k warrenty since you are the first owner.

matthew46
06-04-2006, 12:16 PM
Got the leaking accumulator gasket fixed by the dealer, no charge, and they even topped off the trans. fluid. WOW.:grinyes: Now if I could just get those pesky P0131 and P0137 codes cleared I'd be allright. Already replaced the front sensor, still having problems.

surferfletch
06-04-2006, 01:38 PM
Can someone take a picture of this accumulator cover, please?

amigo-2k
06-04-2006, 04:21 PM
http://www.bassler.us/4l30e.jpg

surferfletch
06-05-2006, 03:28 PM
Thanks!

Kentoxboy
11-22-2007, 01:14 AM
http://www.bassler.us/4l30e.jpg

The picture isn't working anymore.

FL 3.2L
11-22-2007, 09:28 AM
It's on the pasenger side of the tranny toward the front. It is round and held in by a snap ring. It about 2" in diameter, I think.

Kentoxboy
11-22-2007, 10:43 PM
It's on the pasenger side of the tranny toward the front. It is round and held in by a snap ring. It about 2" in diameter, I think.

I had that problem "the leaking" last week and I am trying to look for a write-up on how to fix this. I look at those diargrams but I don't have those tools to fix it. Has anyone find a easy way/tools to fix it? or a simple write-up?

Thanks

Ken

FL 3.2L
11-23-2007, 07:59 PM
You have to push in on the middle of the cover as you release the snap ring with some snap ring pliers (super cheap at any parts or tool store). If the cover doesn't pop out, you can start the truck briefly and the pressure will push it out. Use a crow bar or something similar to apply pressure.

Kentoxboy
12-01-2007, 05:12 PM
You have to push in on the middle of the cover as you release the snap ring with some snap ring pliers (super cheap at any parts or tool store). If the cover doesn't pop out, you can start the truck briefly and the pressure will push it out. Use a crow bar or something similar to apply pressure.

This morning I tried 4 hrs just to figure out how to push the cover in... I tired many different ways, but no luck. I saw that there is a special tool that I need in order to put the spring in. Has anyone try to push the cover in by using a simple tool (that I can buy it cheap) other than a special tool? :banghead:

FL 3.2L
12-01-2007, 05:57 PM
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397457&highlight=accumulator
2eyefishclaw claims he can do one before you can drink a beer.
Let me see if I can find another post... Did you get the snap ring out?

FL 3.2L
12-01-2007, 06:00 PM
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=663123&highlight=piston
Here it is. And don't hate 2eye for doing in 15 minutes what you couldn't do in 4 hours!

Kentoxboy
12-01-2007, 06:30 PM
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397457&highlight=accumulator
2eyefishclaw claims he can do one before you can drink a beer.
Let me see if I can find another post... Did you get the snap ring out?

I couldn't even push the piston in because the spring behind it is too strong.

BB_Mike
05-06-2008, 05:53 PM
I am doing this fix now, based on the info from this thread.

I can not get the original accumulator cover out! the car has ran for at least 15 minutes and it hasn't budged. yes, the snap ring is out.

edit - I let the trans get into 3rd gear after putting the rear axle on jack stands. As soon it it hit 3rd gear, I heard a "pop". I shut off the car and slowly took it back to being stopped. Didn't want to jam on the brakes. The accumulator cover had come out! The spring was outside of the garage, and the accumulator piston thingy was on the floor near the transmission. Another option is to press the WINTER button on your center console. This should force the trans' into 3rd gear, which means you don't have to lift the rear wheels. Totally not proven though.

I'd recomend putting a piece of wood up between the transmission and the driveshaft to control that springs energy some.

Also, I used a really long breaker bar to put in the new cover. I put at smaller ~9/16" socket in like suggested above. using the frot driveshaft as the pivot, I got enough force to press it in. I'm a bit of a weakling (~150 bench press) so I had to put my leg on the frame. Once the cover was in, I didn't need to multi-task and get the clip in at the same time. I remove the lever/bar and the cover stayed in place while I got the snap ring ready.

BB_Mike
05-06-2008, 09:23 PM
Also,
I am doing the transmission filter at the same time. Taking down the cross member and trans' mount took all of 30 minutes. I used a jack stand to support the Transfer case.

Thanks again for the insite guys! :)

Would someone mind sending this thread on to the FAQ creators so that the "3rd gear is needed to pop out the cover" tidbit can be included.
Thanks! Next step is to fix the detonation.

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