01-27-2004, 06:27 PM
01-27-2004, 07:53 PM
Well if you have it narrowed down to the speedo cable then that means it about to snap in two, you can try and lube it up and see if you can save it. First take the gauge cluster out of the dash, then get a plastic baggie and a rubber band and fill it with oil, now put the end of the cable in the baggie and make sure it doesn't leak with the rubber band. Hang the baggie of oil up above the cable so the oil runs down into it, let it hang there overnight and hopefuly in the morning it will be all lubed up.
01-27-2004, 08:55 PM
I'm not sure, it may be the speedometer itself, instead of the cable.
01-28-2004, 10:37 AM
Does the needle bounce around alot? Especially at lower speeds, if so then thats the speedo cable.
02-03-2004, 09:43 AM
My son and I pulled the instrument cluster. I thought we would be able to possibly pull the cable out or something . . . not. Applied what little oil I could, reassembled the cluster to the dash, and hallelujah it started! And, the next morning no speedometer cable noise. I would feel better if I had done something more definite like the baggie thing, but we shall see.
Several other problems we are hopefully dealing with:
1) the car won't blow very warm air . . . replaced the thermostat yesterday (the other one was stuck open — wide open) now it blows plenty of warm air — great for this time of year!
2) the temperature guage didn't work. When I replaced the thermostat the guage is actually reading like it is supposed to.
3) I took the car to an import car garage because the vacuum hoses on the engine where run kind of squirrely, some hoses actually not even there. They ordered a switch/sensor, mounted on the thermostat housing. This will allow for two more vacuum hoses, and putting this part on will get it back to stock.
4) One thing I'm looking to get rid of has not been consistent enough for me to figure out, and hopefully some of these fixes will remedy: The engine will run smooth, but it like cuts out like crazy . . . whether you are idling or under power . . . it is terrible, and probably not good for the car. It is like it is cutting out or flooding out. Any insight???
5) replaced the back portion of the exhaust system.
6) the cruise control: when I set it a) it will not catch unless I let off the gas, b) then the transmission kicks down a gear, but it never gets to the speed it is set at, so it never levels out or kicks back into overdrive. ???
Anyway, this is my daughters car, but I think I am falling in love with this car. It is smooth, has power (and its not even turbo'd), handles great. She lets me know that "It's not yours daddy." Fine, I'll get my own . . . targa top, turbo'd, manual transmission, etc.
Thanks for all your input.
02-03-2004, 11:00 AM
Man if you like the car in stock n/a form just wait till you ride or drive in a slightly modded turbo, new springs/shocks, a few washers in the WG and a 3" exhaust turns the turbo into a whole new animal. About the warm air just keep an eye on it, if the heat ever stops working again then it's probably the heater VSV...
They commonly go bad on supras with time. For the temp gauge check the wires on the christmas tree (the top water neck with all the sensors on it), heat kills the wiring in the engine bay, makes it all crispy or it could have just come unconnected, glad to see it's working now though. The switch sensor the mechanic ordered, was it a small blue plastic peice with 2 vacc nipples on it, on the christmas tree? Those break all the time if your not carefull around them, usually just the top nipple gets broken off, if you go to a junk yard to find one you'll see what I mean. The one that broke off should go to the charcoal canister if I remember right. It won't run any different if that's the case, mine is vented under the car as of now. I can't help much with the auto trans or cruise control, those are 2 systems I've promised myself I will never use again, I've taken 10 hour drives and not felt the need to use cruise control, maybe because the Supra is such a joy to drive on the highways :p All I can say is check the cable tension, the cruise control and the kick down cables. Also if you haven't done it already pull the auto trans codes and the engine codes just to make sure there are no hidden problems or that the mechanic isn't making problems up...
For the cutting out my first question is going to be when was the last tune up, or how long has it been since the plugs, rotor button, and distributor cap were changed? The codes will tell us if it's not those easy fixs and it's something mechanical/electrical like the AFM. Also check the plug valley's just to make sure there not full of oil, if they are the plugs could easily be arc'ing to the head. Valve cover seals get old and dry so they tend to splt out oil, and it either goes down onto the exhaust manifold or it pools in the plug valley.
02-03-2004, 11:27 AM
About the rough running. In the mornings if I let it warm up (long enough to get the frost off the windshield) it runs great and smooth. If I only let it warm up, for say, less than a minute, then it runs nasty. You would think after a few minutes it would smooth out. I live 30 minutes away from work. Last night it ran rough all the way to the driveway.
Thanks for the input. I need all I can get.
02-03-2004, 01:17 PM
So it's just running rough in the warm up? Once it warms up does it smooth out again, like when the idle settles back down to 750?
02-03-2004, 01:35 PM
It's like, if I don't let it completely warm up, it is bad.
If I drive it for a couple of minutes "cold" it runs rough. If I stop after that couple of minutes, and let it sit for 5 minutes or so, it seems to go fine (which, I suppose is allowing the whole engine to get warm without the coolant circulating.)
I would suspect the cold start system to be at fault, except for:
a) I can start it in the morning. It starts right up and idles perfectly smooth.
b) When it should be warm (see previous post) it runs crazy. Once again, it is not like this all the time, but when it is it is bad.
When warmed up sitting still, it runs smooth. When I am impatient and start driving without letting it warm up is when it seems to be a problem.
In the next day or so that one part you mentioned should be in. There was one other sensor that probably affects the cold start. It is broken off, and they said they probably had one of those parts there that they could put on. That part may fix everything, its just that now it seems everything is working in reverse.
Sorry for going on and on here.
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