92 S-10 2.8l 5 SPEED HELP

187,000 miles
Recent tune up including plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter. Before the plugs and wires it didn't start at all. After plugs ran real rough so replaced wires. Now when cruising at any speed and in any gear engine misses/sputters/hesitiates. If I give it gas it smooths out but still a little rough. Tried injector cleaner and dry gas but no good. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Longhunter

i know this sounds kinda dumb, but i have seen defective sprak plugs before, what kind are they? sometimes they get dropped in the store and crack the ceramic internally, but no visual defect so they put them back in package. Just a thought. Does is miss fire at idle? if yes then what i would do is, while it's running go around and pull off one wire at a time until you isolate the cylinder it's affecting most (whatever wire you pull off and doesn't change the running of the motor is your bad cylinder). from there you can check that plug. Now if you said no, then i would be looking at your coil as the next thing to check. hope that helped.

Fox Rocks,
It idles pretty decent. A little rough but not very. I'll try pulling the wires just the same.
It ran pretty good up until it wouldn't start. It tried to start but wouldn't fire so that's when I tried plugs. It fired up but ran lousy. A lot of sputtering/missing at any speed. Next came wires and that cleaned up most of it but still sputtering and a lack of power. Then came injector cleaner and dry gas (it sat for two weeks in both cold and warm weather before I got it running, thought maybe moisture collected in the tank) No good. Replace fuel filter, cap and rotor (cap and rotor was bad) yesterday. Got the power back but still sputtering. I'm just about ready to take this thing to a mechanic but I hate like heck to let it beat me.

yep, i know what you mean....i'm still suspecting a defect plug, but the wire test will isolate that for ya.

Fox Rocks,
How do I check the coil?

This testing procedure is valid for just about any automotive coil. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance on the primary circuit. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal (or post). The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.

Thanks Fox Rocks!!!!!

Good thread I am learning something...
Hope u get to the bottom of it...

My guess is fuel pump, maybe the filter, but probably the pump back there.

I have replaced the plugs, wires, distr. cap,fuel filter, PVC valve/filter and the Fuel injection sensor thingy. Figured it was the pump so I bought the pump and straimer and took it to a garage/mechanic and he droped the feul tank and decided that it was not the fuel pump!!! I'm lost at what to try next. It's has a hard start, when it does start it tends to die. When I do get it running it chugs and doesn't matter how much I push the gas it's like it is not getting gas. Mind you my dad does the work, He is just feed up and now calls my truck a piece of junk, But I love my little truck and want it running right again. :banghead: